Twin M45 charged 1uzfe project taking shape
- Thread starter striker
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Hehehe, that's definitely our MacStriker :laughing:
You said it, not me! Actually it's a compliment. Anyone who can put together stuff the way you're doing it, for a fraction of the cost others are, deserves major props from us all.
A word to the wise, you'll probably die of old age before KEP come back to you, if at all. It's been my experience that you really have to nag them constantly before you'll get a response. They're sitting on a gold mine but their marketing sux.
striker
New Member
sorry for the welder I bought something that will actually will go in to the car..... as in a part! and the most expensive till now that is.
A very good condition Porsche 964 911 G50-03 non LSD, 38.000km old, ex front end collision scrap car.
with the 18" on the standard T70 and the max RPM I'm chassing I'll look at a top speed of about 280 to 290km and hour, if I can strecth the RPM scale by another 1K rpm upto 7000Krpm I'll be breaking the (to me) magical 300km/h barrier.
I'm cleaning it at the moment, and boy I'm glad that porsche don't have these boxes cast in sand.... they did lost wax so the surface is very neat and smooth makes for easy cleaning, though I did allready spend about 6 hours on it I've only done one side....... don't you hate casting ribs aaarrgghrhh :rant:
QUESTION: should I store this box with or without oil in it? won't see action for a few years to come probably
detailed measurements of it are in the swap and conversions section, the top sticky post.
here you go
Grtz Thomas
A very good condition Porsche 964 911 G50-03 non LSD, 38.000km old, ex front end collision scrap car.
with the 18" on the standard T70 and the max RPM I'm chassing I'll look at a top speed of about 280 to 290km and hour, if I can strecth the RPM scale by another 1K rpm upto 7000Krpm I'll be breaking the (to me) magical 300km/h barrier.
I'm cleaning it at the moment, and boy I'm glad that porsche don't have these boxes cast in sand.... they did lost wax so the surface is very neat and smooth makes for easy cleaning, though I did allready spend about 6 hours on it I've only done one side....... don't you hate casting ribs aaarrgghrhh :rant:
QUESTION: should I store this box with or without oil in it? won't see action for a few years to come probably
detailed measurements of it are in the swap and conversions section, the top sticky post.
here you go
Grtz Thomas
Thomas,
With oil and turn the drive flanges every month or so.
It may rust without the oil and the oil will eventually drain off the top of the upper gears and the top of the crown wheel and they may rust.
Turning the flanges keeps fesh oil on all the gears.
With oil and turn the drive flanges every month or so.
It may rust without the oil and the oil will eventually drain off the top of the upper gears and the top of the crown wheel and they may rust.
Turning the flanges keeps fesh oil on all the gears.
Attachments
Store the gearbox with oil in it and just turn it over every couple of months.
Put it up on some wooden blocks to insulate it from the concrete.
Give it a clean with some alloy cleaner and then spray it with silicone oil spray, the oil will soak into the alloy and stop any oxidation.
Put it up on some wooden blocks to insulate it from the concrete.
Give it a clean with some alloy cleaner and then spray it with silicone oil spray, the oil will soak into the alloy and stop any oxidation.
Attachments
striker
New Member
haha it will take a lot more than ruining a nice towel in our home to get her unhappy, she even volunteered to get the gearbox out of the trunk of my honda accord all 70kg+ of it at 23:00 in the rain I might ad!
anyway fresh oil and top it up fully then drain the exces when it goes into action.
I'll also need to invert the box to get the car running in the right direction, I'll make a catch tank with return line into the box for it. since the thing needs to be replumbed anyway I think I might aswell do it right now.
for anyones info: if you run the stock depth sump on an 1uzfe (front sump) and mount it to an inverted porsche G50 the sump is 45mm lower than the lowest point of the bellhousing. so you can mount it all in very very LOW which is a good thing.
Clutch wise I still have no idea of what I will run, though I'm thinking twin plate tilton or Quarter matser or such. I would like to use the original flexplate on the 1uz and keep the starter (cheap and good) but it doesn't fit the G50 bellhousing I might be able to accomodate it inside the adaptorplate, but not sure,
mounting the starter on the side of the engine bolting it in the adaptorplate is probably a no go because the chargers entry sits there.
I thought someone had allready made a button mount clutch on the 1uz but can't find it.... any tips welcome on this matter.
Erol How did you guys do it on the reynard? or do you start that via the box external?
thanx for the tips, handy as allways!
grtz Thomas
anyway fresh oil and top it up fully then drain the exces when it goes into action.
I'll also need to invert the box to get the car running in the right direction, I'll make a catch tank with return line into the box for it. since the thing needs to be replumbed anyway I think I might aswell do it right now.
for anyones info: if you run the stock depth sump on an 1uzfe (front sump) and mount it to an inverted porsche G50 the sump is 45mm lower than the lowest point of the bellhousing. so you can mount it all in very very LOW which is a good thing.
Clutch wise I still have no idea of what I will run, though I'm thinking twin plate tilton or Quarter matser or such. I would like to use the original flexplate on the 1uz and keep the starter (cheap and good) but it doesn't fit the G50 bellhousing I might be able to accomodate it inside the adaptorplate, but not sure,
mounting the starter on the side of the engine bolting it in the adaptorplate is probably a no go because the chargers entry sits there.
I thought someone had allready made a button mount clutch on the 1uz but can't find it.... any tips welcome on this matter.
Erol How did you guys do it on the reynard? or do you start that via the box external?
thanx for the tips, handy as allways!
grtz Thomas
striker
New Member
@ Erol Thanx tought so,
@ Justin, that's exactly what I mean, where do those parts com from,
@ Rod, even if you're lucky enought to live close to germany the small list of parts you gave will set me back more than what I payed for the: engine, SC's and gearbox together, so that's a defenate NO GO. porsche is like cosworth in that, if it says the make on the part it instantly costs double..... + I have the starter of the lexus stuff allready and that's a realiable part, whereas the porsche starter is known for trouble.
also when mountening the G50 inverted bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is a nightmare.
Grtz Thomas
@ Justin, that's exactly what I mean, where do those parts com from,
@ Rod, even if you're lucky enought to live close to germany the small list of parts you gave will set me back more than what I payed for the: engine, SC's and gearbox together, so that's a defenate NO GO. porsche is like cosworth in that, if it says the make on the part it instantly costs double..... + I have the starter of the lexus stuff allready and that's a realiable part, whereas the porsche starter is known for trouble.
also when mountening the G50 inverted bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is a nightmare.
Grtz Thomas
Hehehe, that's definitely our MacStriker :laughing:
I would look for a used flywheel and go aftermarket for the clutch.
I owned Porsches for 25 years (3 911's at the same time!)and yes the parts are not cheap but if you shop carefully you can get them at a reasonable cost.
The 911 starter may not be as reliable as the Toyota one but at least it is easily accesible.
With bleeding the clutch swap the inlet and outlet over. In other words use the bleed valve in the old inlet port and the inlet pipe in the bleed port. You may need to create an adaptor but that's the fun.
What your building will never be a lowcost build!
You can't build a car with finger nail clippings.
I owned Porsches for 25 years (3 911's at the same time!)and yes the parts are not cheap but if you shop carefully you can get them at a reasonable cost.
The 911 starter may not be as reliable as the Toyota one but at least it is easily accesible.
With bleeding the clutch swap the inlet and outlet over. In other words use the bleed valve in the old inlet port and the inlet pipe in the bleed port. You may need to create an adaptor but that's the fun.
What your building will never be a lowcost build!
You can't build a car with finger nail clippings.
JustenGT8
New Member
striker
New Member
Hey Rod, I absolutly do understand what you trying to say, but that's not the point for me, I know that the car will have cost twice as much as the striker cost me to build, and I don't care about that. as long as things stay in buget.
also spending $2500 on clutch starter and flywheel parts to join an engine and box that have cost less, doesn't justify the cost for me
what I do care about however, is that for the money spend on porsche parts I can probably get better parts in the aftermarket corner.
for instance the porsche flywheel needs modifications also which will cost money, at the end I have a bunch of converted parts that will probably work together, while at the same spending rate I can have purpose made parts also of good quility (2 disk AP or Tilton clutch will be at least as good as twin plate porsche) so that's why I would rather look for parts like Justin is pointing towards, than modify parts that where never meant to be used that way, I think that's where the quality of kit-cars and their build is decided,
that just how I feel about it btw, just another opinion.
Oh yeah one more thing the porsche gear is HEAVY!
Justin I'll drop you a line on these,
grtz Thomas
also spending $2500 on clutch starter and flywheel parts to join an engine and box that have cost less, doesn't justify the cost for me
what I do care about however, is that for the money spend on porsche parts I can probably get better parts in the aftermarket corner.
for instance the porsche flywheel needs modifications also which will cost money, at the end I have a bunch of converted parts that will probably work together, while at the same spending rate I can have purpose made parts also of good quility (2 disk AP or Tilton clutch will be at least as good as twin plate porsche) so that's why I would rather look for parts like Justin is pointing towards, than modify parts that where never meant to be used that way, I think that's where the quality of kit-cars and their build is decided,
that just how I feel about it btw, just another opinion.
Oh yeah one more thing the porsche gear is HEAVY!
Justin I'll drop you a line on these,
grtz Thomas
NZ_V8farmer
New Member
hows the project coming along?
striker
New Member
well mr farmer!
just spend a few weeks doing other cars,
Jon a UK (lives in holland) friend of mine has a race striker, and he went on track for the first time a few weeks back which went rather well, we set up the car for him, and last saterday he had his first race in the
colin chapman racing series in holland, he was in first place from the start (1 corner with a 3 car lead yippie!)) when his ZX12R clutch failed, so he sadly had to retire, but we're pretty pleasded with this result, considering the car had only done about 30 laps out of the box, and performed so well against other more developed cars.
I have fixed the toyota starlet which had it's headgsket blown, and Rodgers striker which had all sorts of problems with the alternator mounts.. (basicly redone the whole system) also my girlfriends 91 auto corrolla needed some attention as did my own daily driver.
for celebrating my brithday also have made ea very nice Graden-fireplace form an old LPG tank, it's still to cold to be outside at night over here. but the thing got it upto a nice 21 degrees.
(@cribbj: scottisch again I presume:firedevil: )
but back to topic, No not much happening at the moment, I have cleaned the G50 box, modified the breather, filled it up with oil completly and have made a schedule to not forget to turn it over every month.
been looking for the adaptorplates and have finnaly brought it down to 2 choises BNC products or Kennedy KEP Kep is a little cheaper but still waiting on postal quote. both use stock porsche gear, but can be made to work with others aswell, have mailed out for a porsche clutch system from sachs themselves instead of the porsche dealership over here, they're just thieves....
I have the tubes to build the intercoolers in house, and thats the thing I'm concentrating on now, I bougth the steadys for the lathe to hold the tubes, and thursday the lower inlet mani will be milled down the last 8mm, and I expect to have the 3mm alloy plate in house at the time also, so folding and bending can begin on that package, and I'll have the local expert weld it up.
So It's basicly think time at the moment, and gathering parts.
Also this week someone will come a have a testdrive in my striker (yellow car below) and maybe buy it from me, at which point big steps will be taken to order the T70 chassis and other stuff in the UK.
so that's basicly it, busy boy at the moment.
Grtz Thomas
just spend a few weeks doing other cars,
Jon a UK (lives in holland) friend of mine has a race striker, and he went on track for the first time a few weeks back which went rather well, we set up the car for him, and last saterday he had his first race in the
colin chapman racing series in holland, he was in first place from the start (1 corner with a 3 car lead yippie!)) when his ZX12R clutch failed, so he sadly had to retire, but we're pretty pleasded with this result, considering the car had only done about 30 laps out of the box, and performed so well against other more developed cars.
I have fixed the toyota starlet which had it's headgsket blown, and Rodgers striker which had all sorts of problems with the alternator mounts.. (basicly redone the whole system) also my girlfriends 91 auto corrolla needed some attention as did my own daily driver.
for celebrating my brithday also have made ea very nice Graden-fireplace form an old LPG tank, it's still to cold to be outside at night over here. but the thing got it upto a nice 21 degrees.
(@cribbj: scottisch again I presume:firedevil: )
but back to topic, No not much happening at the moment, I have cleaned the G50 box, modified the breather, filled it up with oil completly and have made a schedule to not forget to turn it over every month.
been looking for the adaptorplates and have finnaly brought it down to 2 choises BNC products or Kennedy KEP Kep is a little cheaper but still waiting on postal quote. both use stock porsche gear, but can be made to work with others aswell, have mailed out for a porsche clutch system from sachs themselves instead of the porsche dealership over here, they're just thieves....
I have the tubes to build the intercoolers in house, and thats the thing I'm concentrating on now, I bougth the steadys for the lathe to hold the tubes, and thursday the lower inlet mani will be milled down the last 8mm, and I expect to have the 3mm alloy plate in house at the time also, so folding and bending can begin on that package, and I'll have the local expert weld it up.
So It's basicly think time at the moment, and gathering parts.
Also this week someone will come a have a testdrive in my striker (yellow car below) and maybe buy it from me, at which point big steps will be taken to order the T70 chassis and other stuff in the UK.
so that's basicly it, busy boy at the moment.
Grtz Thomas
You said it, not me! Actually it's a compliment. Anyone who can put together stuff the way you're doing it, for a fraction of the cost others are, deserves major props from us all.
A word to the wise, you'll probably die of old age before KEP come back to you, if at all. It's been my experience that you really have to nag them constantly before you'll get a response. They're sitting on a gold mine but their marketing sux.
