Twin M45 charged 1uzfe project taking shape
- Thread starter striker
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Justen : What is the ECU you are using ??
striker
New Member
Okee than Cribbj, now 100% going for the reinforcements,
I don't want these to come loose at 14krpm, since the engine pulleys will be mere inches from my spinal cord...... with only a few mm of ally plate inbetween, a friend caught a conrod once which escaped from his engine in a Sylva mojo transverse/midengine, that's 2 years ago and he still has the scar..... dangerous play methinks
@ justin Good going on the 20v, will you turbo that aswell, Very nice engine with power everywhere. if you're going NA ask away!
question: how much power are you making on the stock 1uz throttle bodie?
Grtz Thomas
I don't want these to come loose at 14krpm, since the engine pulleys will be mere inches from my spinal cord...... with only a few mm of ally plate inbetween, a friend caught a conrod once which escaped from his engine in a Sylva mojo transverse/midengine, that's 2 years ago and he still has the scar..... dangerous play methinks
@ justin Good going on the 20v, will you turbo that aswell, Very nice engine with power everywhere. if you're going NA ask away!
question: how much power are you making on the stock 1uz throttle bodie?
Grtz Thomas
JustenGT8
New Member
May turbo but car is so light i think even mild n/a will do the job. AFM so maybe the ECU will take some boost ?
I'm currently a bit over 400rwkw with the stock throttle body (stock everything pretty much in terms of hardware). TB would be good for 1000+hp at a guess....as long as you aren't hitting 350fps intake velocity it should be fine and doubt it's getting anywhere near than where i am.
I'm currently a bit over 400rwkw with the stock throttle body (stock everything pretty much in terms of hardware). TB would be good for 1000+hp at a guess....as long as you aren't hitting 350fps intake velocity it should be fine and doubt it's getting anywhere near than where i am.
striker
New Member
Thanx justin,
I'm still thinking about the set up wtij 2 vs one throttle bodie, I think it's easiest to mount the original one on the back of the engine, and run 2 pipes down to the SC's question was pretty simple but good to know that it will support more than I'm looking for.
Make it an NA screamer get it on a 4-1 exhaust and run a good ECU on it You can do away with the dist and the bulky airbox
I have it like that in the striker and my god it makes some fine noise above 7krpm redlined at 8200 now but power drops after 7500 because my ECU doesn't allow to set the VVT in it's Off possition again which should really be done after 7500 on silvertops. whatsit going in if I may ask?
anyway Thanx for the info!
Grtz Thomas
I'm still thinking about the set up wtij 2 vs one throttle bodie, I think it's easiest to mount the original one on the back of the engine, and run 2 pipes down to the SC's question was pretty simple but good to know that it will support more than I'm looking for.
Make it an NA screamer get it on a 4-1 exhaust and run a good ECU on it You can do away with the dist and the bulky airbox
I have it like that in the striker and my god it makes some fine noise above 7krpm redlined at 8200 now but power drops after 7500 because my ECU doesn't allow to set the VVT in it's Off possition again which should really be done after 7500 on silvertops. whatsit going in if I may ask?
anyway Thanx for the info!
Grtz Thomas
JustenGT8
New Member
One TB would be easier by far and as long as your Y-pipe is nicely done it should work fine.
The 20v is going into a 1967 KE10 Corolla...cool retro grandpa car on outside, full race car under the skin....will shock a few exotics. 710kg.
I'm using the stock ECU so a bit limited in mods but as indicated before may go a mild turbo setup if the ECU will handle a little boost?.
The 20v is going into a 1967 KE10 Corolla...cool retro grandpa car on outside, full race car under the skin....will shock a few exotics. 710kg.
I'm using the stock ECU so a bit limited in mods but as indicated before may go a mild turbo setup if the ECU will handle a little boost?.
mshawari1
Member
Justen : What is the ECU you are using ??
striker
New Member
And the Saga continues.
after lots of time not working on the engine, I thought it would be wise to at least get SC #2 on the engine before the years gone, (pictures tommorow)
there's a small problem I keep encountering at the moment,
The BMW M45 chargers have a very odd connection tube to the chargers Inlet, I would have a real nightmare later on, fitting the throttle valves and bypass valves to that. I can however get nice K&N cone filters to fit the entry's, and cold air can be routed to their location quite nicely.
But that would mean having a different location for the bypass valves, compared to where they would normaly go.
standart is:
air filter, throttle valve, SC, intercooler, intake manifold.
with the bypass valve from intake SC to outlet SC
I remember Erol talking about having done this on a 4agze. ( http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8210 )
would you like to discus this a little further Erol?
Erol's layout :
air filter, SC, intercooler, throttle valve, intake manifold.
with the bypass valve from SC intake to SC outlet.
Does the system run completly off boost when at idle and or cruise speeds? or will it put lot's of strain on the system when suddenly closing the throttle? causing tubes to pop off
I've seem lots of people mount BOV type valves with poor result,
But none of them have used this seemingly easy modification to the normal layout question is: Why?
also what type bypass was used and where to connect the acutuaor vacuum tube, manifold or before throttle valve?
any input welcome,
grtz thomas
after lots of time not working on the engine, I thought it would be wise to at least get SC #2 on the engine before the years gone, (pictures tommorow)
there's a small problem I keep encountering at the moment,
The BMW M45 chargers have a very odd connection tube to the chargers Inlet, I would have a real nightmare later on, fitting the throttle valves and bypass valves to that. I can however get nice K&N cone filters to fit the entry's, and cold air can be routed to their location quite nicely.
But that would mean having a different location for the bypass valves, compared to where they would normaly go.
standart is:
air filter, throttle valve, SC, intercooler, intake manifold.
with the bypass valve from intake SC to outlet SC
I remember Erol talking about having done this on a 4agze. ( http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8210 )
would you like to discus this a little further Erol?
Erol's layout :
air filter, SC, intercooler, throttle valve, intake manifold.
with the bypass valve from SC intake to SC outlet.
Does the system run completly off boost when at idle and or cruise speeds? or will it put lot's of strain on the system when suddenly closing the throttle? causing tubes to pop off
I've seem lots of people mount BOV type valves with poor result,
But none of them have used this seemingly easy modification to the normal layout question is: Why?
also what type bypass was used and where to connect the acutuaor vacuum tube, manifold or before throttle valve?
any input welcome,
grtz thomas
Thomas,
The 4AGZE still had a clutched drive pulley operated via throttle position.
I think a constant drive blower would be better with the TB before the blower. That is how we do it on the S/C hillclimb car.
Also a pic of a clubby I had a 300klm race in recently (no 24). Not a 4age but 2.5ltr Nissan RB25 n/a. About the same lap times as a current GT3 Carrera Cup Porsche. Road registered too, done 60,000 klm in the last 3 years. About the closest thing to an open wheeler you can drive on the road !
Sorry for hi-jack, back to topic !
The 4AGZE still had a clutched drive pulley operated via throttle position.
I think a constant drive blower would be better with the TB before the blower. That is how we do it on the S/C hillclimb car.
Also a pic of a clubby I had a 300klm race in recently (no 24). Not a 4age but 2.5ltr Nissan RB25 n/a. About the same lap times as a current GT3 Carrera Cup Porsche. Road registered too, done 60,000 klm in the last 3 years. About the closest thing to an open wheeler you can drive on the road !
Sorry for hi-jack, back to topic !
striker
New Member
Hmmm thought so after a good nights sleep, will be done with TB's before the chargers.
anyway to stay a little offtopic with you Erol, that's nice to drive on the road, but there's a german guy who went a little bit further than that.
Formula 3 car road registered, comments are in german, in short 50.000 euro's multi year project running a vauxhall 2L engine. brutally quick.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfBtt5KVMiE
back to topic.
as prommised here's a few piccies
I allready have done this one a few moths back. but it now also has a 4age alternator with the 1uzfe's pulley on it
over to the other side
front view
So now it's on to make the intercooler system,
anyone in the melbourne region who is willing to help me get an order from smartaluminium overseas to europe? finaly found the tube with the ID I need.
Grtz Thomas
anyway to stay a little offtopic with you Erol, that's nice to drive on the road, but there's a german guy who went a little bit further than that.
Formula 3 car road registered, comments are in german, in short 50.000 euro's multi year project running a vauxhall 2L engine. brutally quick.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfBtt5KVMiE
back to topic.
as prommised here's a few piccies
I allready have done this one a few moths back. but it now also has a 4age alternator with the 1uzfe's pulley on it
over to the other side
front view
So now it's on to make the intercooler system,
anyone in the melbourne region who is willing to help me get an order from smartaluminium overseas to europe? finaly found the tube with the ID I need.
Grtz Thomas
striker
New Member
hey all
Some time spend in the garage again this week, a bunch of little things taken care of, and a few big problems solved.
I have finaly got hold of some tubes that take the laminova cores, with a little help from an englishman in australia they even got over here in holland.
here´s one with the intercooler core inside, the fit is very tight as it´s supposed, the gap inbetween the tube wall and the fins is less than 0.04mm took a year searching but I knew this ID tube would be availeble somewhere. it's listed as a scaffold tube......
also the I decided on the route of the belt driving the chargers and the alternator and I had to make a piece on the lathe that would carry an extra support pulley, and a few small alloy spacers for the left hand SC mount and the alternator, having a lathe is very nice when making all pulleys line up, measure up what you need, turn and it fits right away
here's 2 simple spacers
the support pulley carrier took al little more measuring, the carrier also protudes into a 12mm hole drilled in the engine bracket, so the pulley is supported buy the carier and the bolt is used to tighten it up. it should be strong enough, the steps on the outer end are made so that the bearing inside the pulley fits tight on the carier. the thread in the head was M10 x 1.25 so a piece of threaded rod was bought (
expensive stuff....) got the bolts for free though.
here the pully is fitted
I also had to make a new alternator bracket, the alt don't need to swivel because the 1uz has a very clever pulley tensioner somewhere else, so it can be mounted solid.
the alt upper mount is bolted down into the engine it self the lower bracket is only there to stop it from turning on the upper bolt hole.
once that was done I could finaly measure up the length of the new belt that I need, I did that with the tensioner held down with a "spanband"(don't know in english) and a piece of rope, it measures 261cm with tensioner held down and 266cm with tensioner slackend. that's about 103" of belt to order from gates gates PK61025 should fit perfect.
the route with tensioner held down
god forbid the 14 spanner comes of the tensioner pulley whoops, i'd have to dig it out of the concrete ceiling methinks haha
the allingment of the pulley's is about spot on, I can measure a 0.2mm run out at on the outer edge of the right hand SC pulley using the laser,(the corner pulley on the crank side reads 0.0)
I think that's about as close as I can get it using only a hacksaw, 3euro laser pointer (stripe) and digital calipers and a second hand 18yo cebora mig welder :crazy:
so on with the intake manifold and intercoolers.........
hmm Question: I need to weld alloy now.....
time to buy a tig welder?
or have someone do it for me?
it must be neat because it's the first thing you'll see when to bonnet opens.
Grtz Thomas
Some time spend in the garage again this week, a bunch of little things taken care of, and a few big problems solved.
I have finaly got hold of some tubes that take the laminova cores, with a little help from an englishman in australia they even got over here in holland.
here´s one with the intercooler core inside, the fit is very tight as it´s supposed, the gap inbetween the tube wall and the fins is less than 0.04mm took a year searching but I knew this ID tube would be availeble somewhere. it's listed as a scaffold tube......
also the I decided on the route of the belt driving the chargers and the alternator and I had to make a piece on the lathe that would carry an extra support pulley, and a few small alloy spacers for the left hand SC mount and the alternator, having a lathe is very nice when making all pulleys line up, measure up what you need, turn and it fits right away
here's 2 simple spacers
the support pulley carrier took al little more measuring, the carrier also protudes into a 12mm hole drilled in the engine bracket, so the pulley is supported buy the carier and the bolt is used to tighten it up. it should be strong enough, the steps on the outer end are made so that the bearing inside the pulley fits tight on the carier. the thread in the head was M10 x 1.25 so a piece of threaded rod was bought (
expensive stuff....) got the bolts for free though.here the pully is fitted
I also had to make a new alternator bracket, the alt don't need to swivel because the 1uz has a very clever pulley tensioner somewhere else, so it can be mounted solid.
the alt upper mount is bolted down into the engine it self the lower bracket is only there to stop it from turning on the upper bolt hole.
once that was done I could finaly measure up the length of the new belt that I need, I did that with the tensioner held down with a "spanband"(don't know in english) and a piece of rope, it measures 261cm with tensioner held down and 266cm with tensioner slackend. that's about 103" of belt to order from gates
gates PK61025 should fit perfect.the route with tensioner held down
god forbid the 14 spanner comes of the tensioner pulley whoops, i'd have to dig it out of the concrete ceiling methinks haha
the allingment of the pulley's is about spot on, I can measure a 0.2mm run out at on the outer edge of the right hand SC pulley using the laser,(the corner pulley on the crank side reads 0.0)
I think that's about as close as I can get it using only a hacksaw, 3euro laser pointer (stripe) and digital calipers and a second hand 18yo cebora mig welder :crazy:
so on with the intake manifold and intercoolers.........
hmm Question: I need to weld alloy now.....
time to buy a tig welder?
or have someone do it for me?
it must be neat because it's the first thing you'll see when to bonnet opens.
Grtz Thomas
striker
New Member
Hey John,
thanx for the compliments, I feel the need to say a thing about that btw.
it's not that hard to do all this, and I don't at all have fancy or expensive tools to do so,
I bought the Lathe I made the alloy stuff on, 3 weeks back and before that I had never touched one. same goes for the welder, I bought it to be able to produce the mounts, after a few months of making mistakes you get the hang of it e voila.
get yourself on a forum that deals with what you want gather intel and JUST TRY........
It's more like you need to just DO it, use cheap parts and if you cock up star over again and again..... that's why cheap parts...
think it up, make sketch, buy tools and make the part, or am I talking to easy about it now?
all the parts made to get to this stage cost a total of 30euro's in alloy plate, bar and steel tube. I don't consider costs spend on tools to be part engines bill, the tool list is as follows
18yo cebora pocket mig (bought used)
2yo HBM 250-400 Lathe including toolbits (bought used)
digital caliper
el cheapo laser pointer
tape measure
hacksaw 26tpi blades
el cheapo chinese pillar drill with 6 8 and 10mm HSS drills
small benchmounted vice
round flat and square files
Angry grinder 1mm disk
and some:alcoholic: for making up new ideas
once the mounts are cleaned and powdercoated they'll even look the buisness.
Grtz Thomas
thanx for the compliments, I feel the need to say a thing about that btw.
it's not that hard to do all this, and I don't at all have fancy or expensive tools to do so,
I bought the Lathe I made the alloy stuff on, 3 weeks back and before that I had never touched one. same goes for the welder, I bought it to be able to produce the mounts, after a few months of making mistakes you get the hang of it e voila.
get yourself on a forum that deals with what you want gather intel and JUST TRY........
It's more like you need to just DO it, use cheap parts and if you cock up star over again and again..... that's why cheap parts...
think it up, make sketch, buy tools and make the part, or am I talking to easy about it now?
all the parts made to get to this stage cost a total of 30euro's in alloy plate, bar and steel tube. I don't consider costs spend on tools to be part engines bill, the tool list is as follows
18yo cebora pocket mig (bought used)
2yo HBM 250-400 Lathe including toolbits (bought used)
digital caliper
el cheapo laser pointer
tape measure
hacksaw 26tpi blades
el cheapo chinese pillar drill with 6 8 and 10mm HSS drills
small benchmounted vice
round flat and square files
Angry grinder 1mm disk
and some:alcoholic: for making up new ideas
once the mounts are cleaned and powdercoated they'll even look the buisness.
Grtz Thomas
mycarhasposessedme
New Member
Cheers Striker, very good work.
I like the way you think and do things.
We are very similar in that way.
I recently purchased a Tig welder for Alloy as I was not happy with the work that I paid for.
I purchased scrap alloy for practice and 2 bottles of gas later I am Tigging well enough to weld actual components on my project.
Cheers,
Trev.
I like the way you think and do things.
We are very similar in that way.
I recently purchased a Tig welder for Alloy as I was not happy with the work that I paid for.
I purchased scrap alloy for practice and 2 bottles of gas later I am Tigging well enough to weld actual components on my project.
Cheers,
Trev.
striker
New Member
Hey trev, that's what I was thinking about the tig welding stuff.
there's apperently "well enough for home use" inverters enough for sale at the moment, I'm looking at a Rehman Item, but have been offered a Miller synchrowave 275 also, which costs twice as much as the rehman....
decisions decisions decisions....... also have been offered a very neat Milling machine from the late 70's..... actually need both to get the intercooler job done right, and need the milling machine to do the oil filter relocation stuff.
so if anyone comes by that does really neat welding in alloy, I'll let him do it for me, and buy probably by a milling machine, could save hundreds in the braking department also. like I said if like to work on cars better spend on tools than parts.
Grtz Thomas
there's apperently "well enough for home use" inverters enough for sale at the moment, I'm looking at a Rehman Item, but have been offered a Miller synchrowave 275 also, which costs twice as much as the rehman....
decisions decisions decisions....... also have been offered a very neat Milling machine from the late 70's..... actually need both to get the intercooler job done right, and need the milling machine to do the oil filter relocation stuff.
so if anyone comes by that does really neat welding in alloy, I'll let him do it for me, and buy probably by a milling machine, could save hundreds in the braking department also. like I said if like to work on cars better spend on tools than parts.
Grtz Thomas
Striker: i like to save money too, but go with the syncrowave if you have the money, i have used several of the small inverter type welders, and none of them came close to the old syncrowave 250 w/cooler. that we had at the shop, you will be happy with that welder for years! and as a company, Miller is going to be around forever.
JCC
JCC
