Single Turbo 1UZ MKII Supra Project

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Ok gang, it's been another long installment since any real updates. Going against my better judgment, I decided to go ahead and paint the engine bay even though the fab work was not finished for the engine bits and pieces. I simply am at a standstill until my tranny adapting issues are restored.

I went to a local rodder's favorite little hole-in-the-wall paint shop to pick up a quart of PPG OMNI MAE single stage acrylic in the shade of red my car was painted way back in 2006. After some confusion and debate over which red it actually was at the paint shop, I went home with a quart of what I thought was correct. I mixed up a small sample batch using graduated cylinders, and mixed it in a shot glass to use with my airbrush on a test panel to verify the color. After the test piece dried (a 3.5" circular section left after cutting an intercooler hole), it was evident that the red I had purchased was not correct. It may be hard to tell in the photos, but in natural light it is way too dark of a red. I am comparing it to a headlight door in the following picture:

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I went back to the shop, and finally was able to confirm with my body guy the exact shade of red I needed with the exact PPG number. Volkswagon LP3G Flash Red (1996) was the correct variant, and the match is great with my six year old body paint.

The test pieces would be the hood hinges as I sprayed them in color before seam sealing them back to the car. I again mixed a small batch and used my airbrush to cover every small crevice of the hinges with multiple coats.

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Very happy with the match, the engine bay was checked to make sure everything was prepped correctly, and pushed outside for a thorough cleaning.

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The hinges were reassembled to the car with new seam sealer around their base just like from the factory.

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While the car was outside, the entire garage was swept and dusted entirely, while the compressor was evacuated and the drain removed overnight. The next day, the engine bay was thoroughly checked and wiped down with prep cleaner.

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The entire car was masked to make sure no overspray crept its way onto any other part of the car. After a wipe down with a tack rag, I was ready to shoot my first coat of paint by myself with an HLVP gun. Using only half of the quart of paint, I was able to lay down three nice coats within ten minute windows as per the instructions. The mix requires a ratio of paint, reducer and hardener of 8:1:1 respectively.

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Needless to say, I was very happy with the results.

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The job was not perfect by any means, but I am ecstatic over how great everything turned out for my first time painting on such a large scale. My father and my paint guy were both very impressed and happy with the results. There are no drips, and only a few small dry spot that can't be seen when the engine is installed. It's very wet and glossy where it counts, and the match to the original paint is very close even after six years.

The engine bay was slowly reassembled with permanent installs of the other components.

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No small detail was overlooked, from the brake lines, proportioning valve, and even to the headlight motors.

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Even though I didn't have a need to, I just had to see what it was going to look like with the engine in place.

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The only noticeable error with my fabrication is that I didn't account for the brake line that comes out of the top of the proportioning valve, and my intake now doesn't fit from the throttle body. A bit of massaging and it will route fine.

The lower windshield trim was in ok shape (I had repainted it many moons ago), but I decided to bring up to the standard that everything else received. Sanded down to 400 grit, it received two coats of black and two coats of clear.

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-Mike
 
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Mike this all looks super. You're obviously as much an artisan behind the lens as you are spinning wrenches. Thoroughly enjoying watching your build come together.

Just a question on your catch cans - did you put any baffles in them or are they pretty much just open cans that vent to the atmosphere?

I've been toying with the idea of redoing the vapor separator system on my Ferrari as it's basically just an open, unbaffled can that vents back to the manifolds, but it still allows a fair amount of oil vapor into my intake. In lieu of piping it to the intake as Ferrari did, I could vent it to atmosphere as you have, but then I'd have to deal with the fumes in the garage. Think I'd prefer to try to design a "smarter" baffled vessel to coalesce or condense the liquids and get them to drop out better than the Ferrari system, and keep the final venting to the intake manifold. I've looked at the Mann Hummel ProVent air/oil separator system, but at nearly 10" tall and 4" in diameter it's just too big.
 
Ideally, one of the better oil catch designs uses a twin passage system that forces the fumes to the bottom of the tank, runs through a series of stainless mesh (some people just use steel wool), and runs back up the other side to the exit. This can easily be accomplished by just adding a divider in the center of the can that doesn't reach the bottom, and adding steel wool to the bottom sections. Of course, you have to be very careful to not let any oil/gas liquids in the tank rise above the separations, or you will block off the exit point for any new fumes.

I just ran an open can vented to atmosphere on my old turbo inline six, and even though I routed the vent to the lower frame rail, the fumes were noticeable while driving and sometimes when sitting in the garage. Then again the motor was quite tired, and had absolutely no baffling even in the valve covers to slow the flow like any "well engineered" system these days.

I am hoping the heavy baffling in the 1UZ valve covers will allow acceptable fume levels while driving and in storage. If it doesn’t work out, I may just route the vent line to inside the driver’s frame rail (The factory gas tank vent line for the MKII supra exits into the passenger frame rail in the engine bay), and redesign the tank with baffling and a separation system.

Thanks,

-Mike
 
Yea, I go hot & cold on the SS mesh pads and baffles. I'm in the oil & gas industry and used to design suction scrubbers on gas compressors for a living.

I currently like what this guy is doing: http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/new_page_1.htm and am working with him on adapting a pair of his systems for the Ferrari. We'll see how they work out. Sorry for sidetracking your thread a bit!
 
Thanks everyone!

A mini update:

I have been slowly assembling parts in the engine bay, taking care of the little details so they don't hang me up when it comes time to finishing. The radiator's lower mounts have had rubber padding added to isolate and cushion the radiator, and I will do the same to the top when I locate some more rubber sheeting.

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I have been having a hard time finding a place online to buy a small 45 degree aluminum bend to use for my radiator inlet. I may just have a local shop bend a piece and add bead to the end.

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Both master cylinders were completely rebuilt and refreshed to suit the cleanliness of the rest of the engine bay. I was going to install a MKIII supra master cylinder, but after reading all the comments of how they change the brake feel with OEM calipers I decided to wait until I address the brakes on all four corners.

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The intake and dipstick have been massaged to allow the clearance I need to the strut tower, and clearance to the master cylinder is also looking good.

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I added the bracket to the intake manifold for the throttle to judge how I was going to route my cable. I am going to remove the excess junk on the bracket to streamline it since there will be no cruise control.

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I now have to decide what throttle cable to use. I see that people have been using MKIV Supra turbo cables with 7mgte swaps with FFIMs, and that the 82-85 Celica cables are long enough to reach the radiator support when stretched out. Does anyone have any exact lengths of these cables from the firewall? I of course want the length to be perfect for my routing, and not look ghetto with any extra slack.

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Another issue I am facing is that the way I clocked the compressor housing on the turbo. It allows one of the compressor housing/center section retainer bolts to run into the oil drain adapter when a fitting is installed. It may clear if the fitting has its flat parallel to the bolt's face, but won't allow me to tighten it. A random fitting I had is being used for mock up.

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Also, even though Borg Warner's websites and retailers say that the oil drain flange holes are M8 1.25, they are a larger standard thread on mine. I will have to ream the holes a bit bigger on the drain adapter and pick up the correct socket cap bolts (not a big deal), but the flange and adapter hit the manifold flange so that the holes do not align.

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I am not sure yet what I am going to do. I just saw William’s post on Don's 1JZ project about how he used aluminum hard line and AN flare bits to create his oil drains. It looks like the stubbiness of these fitting may gain me the clearance I need, and bending aluminum tubing will assure I route the drain off the manifolds and in an acceptable gravity flowing manner.

williamb82 on celicasupra.com said:

Original thread:

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?64643-Don-s-1JZ-Autox-Project&p=766849#post766849


Thanks everyone!

-Mike
 
Just get a speedflow extension peice? that will bring your hose fitting out past the tirbo housing and give enough room for the flange to align properly.

I wouldn't use hard line, too prone to cracking. OEM can get away with it as they use steel lines and everything is very securely retained eg turbo braces, multiple brace points on the line. Oil leak near turbo manifold = nasty fire :eek:
 
+1 to Justen's comment - I wouldn't use aluminum hardline in any vibrating situation.

I'd put together a short chunk of straight stainless steel tubing to get the connection out past the interference point, then use a male/male union to transition back to SS braided hose and bring it down into your pan with that. Install & tighten the SS tubing nut/joint on the male AN at the flanged fitting, before putting the flanged fitting on the turbo. Since the tubing will be straight, there won't be any clocking problems.

The short piece of SS tubing would then be considered part of the turbo housing & "unremovable" except in extreme circumstances.
 
Thanks everyone!

Finally after a long and tiring 79 day transaction, this shows up in the mail with no prior warning or notification.

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My opinion of this product can be seen in the seller's review section under "Quantum-Auto.com (Jake Breyck) No customer service to be found."

I had to grind a few clearance steps in the 1UZ auto bellhousing to clear the transmission input seal cover, and two of the adapter bolts. The tolerances and fit seem very good, and I am excited to finally get the trans under the car and mounted. Please excuse the messy transmission, I have not cleaned it or repainted it as I might need to separate it to install MKIII Supra W58 shifter components.

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If I have time tomorrow, I am going to get the trans under the car and see how the shifter position and transmission mount line up to the existing provisions.

Thanks,

-Mike
 
I woke up extra early today to take a stab at getting the transmission mocked up into place. The 1UZ bellhousing is a bit taller than the M series W58 housings, and the car had to be lifted to the sky to carefully shimmy the transmission under the car.

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Within only a matter of minutes, the transmission was mated to the engine and I secured it using my four engine stand bolts and some steel collars to shorten their length. The first thing that was obvious was that the MKII Supra W58 shifter housing was way too far forward, but it was something I expected.

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After quite a bit of fumbling around with orientations of both the rubber transmission mount and the transmission cross member, I found a pairing that allowed me to at least button the trans to the body.

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Again, the transmission is just too far forward to utilize the original two threaded holes for the manual transmission cross member. However, the driver's side had three holes evenly spaced (an extra forward of the original two), which allowed me to secure the manual cross member with two bolts on that side. The holes actually lined up perfectly. The passenger side however only has the two original threaded holes, and I was only able to secure that side with a single bolt. The driver's side is pictured below, where you can see the original mounting area exposed.

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Another view of the shifter housing, from the bottom rear.

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Driver's side bellhousing clearance was great, nothing even close to touching.

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The passenger side was the same story.

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I also quickly installed the original manual front driveshaft, which managed to catch about a centimeter onto the transmission output splines. It is clear that I need to find a longer driveshaft, or have this unit lengthened.

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Altogether, the fitment is what I suspected after researching what others had concluded when using PeeWee's mounts. I need to find out how much farther forward the automatic transmission cross member can be mounted compared to the manual, and how much longer the automatic front driveshaft sections are compared to the manual (for 82-85 Celicas and Supras). For the shifter housing, it appears that a MKIII Supra W58 housing and internal selector will place the shifter about perfectly in the interior's opening. DRIFTINGmy85's write-up on changing the shifter housing from MKII's to MKIII's was very helpful in determining if a MKIII shifter housing is what I need.

http://forums.celicasupra.com/showt...-a-MKIII-w58-in-your-MKII.&highlight=w58 swap

In the thread, he details many pictures comparing the MKIII W58 to the MKII W58.

MKIII (left) and MKII (right):

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MKIII (left) and MKII (right):

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MKIII (left) and MKII (right):

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MKIII (top) and MKII(bottom):

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MKIII selector:

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MKII selector:

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It seems that all I need to grab is a MKIII W58 shifter housing, and the internal selector, plus a gasket(s) to reseal the transmission halves.

If anyone has a line on any of these parts, and or can confirm any length differences, please let me know:

-MKIII Supra W58 Shifter Housing
-MKIII Supra W58 Internal Shifter Selector
-MKII Supra/MKIII Celica (82-86) Automatic Transmission Cross member
-MKII Supra/MKIII Celica (82-86) Automatic Transmission Front Driveshaft


Thanks,

-Mike
 
I'm pretty sure I have most of the different shifter housings/parts laying around here somewhere. I'll take a look this weekend and get back to you.
 
I'm pretty sure I have most of the different shifter housings/parts laying around here somewhere. I'll take a look this weekend and get back to you.

Cool Brandon, let me know what you have. Also, do you have any of your modded 3SGTE flywheels in stock? I'm thinking about grabbing one early next week so I can get this turd under power soon. :)

-Mike
 
I actually don't use 3sgte flywheels because they have issues even after being modified.
The ring gear is the biggest issue, you either have to manually grind a lead on the flywheel teeth or you have to flip the ring gear, and even then the lead is on the wrong side so some people have starting issues because of improper engagement. The other issue that bothers me is having to use the flexplate spacer to space the flywheel out far enough away to clear the starter pinion. The third issue I have is how far the holes have to be moved out. Almost 3/8 of an inch. Whereas the flywheel I use barely has to be moved out. (less than 1/16th of an inch.
I have 2 left on the shelf right now, so Just let me know when you want one.
 
Sorry gents, no updates since I last mounted the transmission. I have been in the process of finalizing a new job I am taking, and therefore have been preparing to move to the northern Chicago area. This unfortunately means that I will not be wrenching on the car for most likely the better part of a month or longer. I will not be taking the car with me, and leaving it at my father’s shop since that is where the wealth of tools are located. Thankfully I am only moving about three hours away, so once I start my job and can easily afford to purchase all the needed items to finish the car, I can drive back down on some weekends and finish the project.

For now, it is tentatively on hold!

Thanks,

-Mike
 
Thanks everyone! Just wanted to pop in to say that sadly there are no real updates. My new job has kept me busy designing other people's cars. :)


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-Mike
 


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