Project Thread Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
OK! Heads are back on with the Cometic 1.5 gaskets and standard-sized ARP head studs (torqued to 60 ft.lbs. dry). Actual progress! The rest of the motor is going back together today!

1UZFront8815sm650.jpg
 
You're telling me! But, I hate to admit, most of the delays were my fault: trying to "save money" when I knew better. I made the decision to get the quality Cometic head gaskets and go to ARP head studs too late in the build-up. I knew from the start that, given my application and intended use, that that was "the right way to do it" . . . . but I kept telling myself that a composite head gasket and head bolts were "good enough." Fortunately I got wise before I blew it (and my wallet) up or hurt somebody (like me!).
 
People forget that copper head gaskets need torquing down at least once after the initial start up.

This requires the removal of the camshafts which is very labour intensive.

The Cometics are worth the wait.

The "Lextreme" ARP studs are the only option available and David has them at a much better price than (say) Summit Racing.
 
Copper gaskets I have fitted on other motors is 3 pulls off and back up to torque spec .. Before start up..
No heat cycles...
Its to force stainless steel O rings into gasket etc...
O ringing head can work on graphite gasket if you machine O ring just outside fire ring..
On forced induction I would have used the larger dia studs...
Cometic relly on SMOOTH machining of both surfaces to seal...
 
Yep, you are right about the copper head gaskets . . . that first re-torque would be very labor intensive on a 1UZ, that's for sure.

After four months waiting for ARP head studs and Cometic head gaskets to arrive in Bangkok, the motor is finally going back together.
1UZ%20Reassembled%2008%202010.jpgA photo from yesterday taken by my engine guy, Art, at Voodoo Racing in Pattaya. It's coming back together! The cams still need degreeing, and other details . . . but the project is coming back to life.
 
It Started (I think)!

I received this e-mail from my shop guy, Art, in Pattaya:


"I started your truck today. No leaks any where. I mean not air leak, and no fluids leaks. Started right up on the first try. Starts very easy. Idle nice, and respond nice. More later...."


I wonder what this means?
 
Wow, it runs?

I know I'm always a little shocked whenever a static lump of ally and steel that I've been shedding blood & sweat over for years finally comes to life.
 
I had a long phone conversation with my shop guy . . . it all sounds like it is ready to tune. I am now waiting for a dyno session confirmation for September 24th. Lots to do then: Set up main map, single NOS nozzle fuel enrichment map, and duel NOS nozzle fuel enrichment (dry NOS system).
 
Called up my engine guy last night and he started the beast so I could listen over the phone: TOTAL AUDIO DISTORTION. After the call, I had him let it idle for 10 minutes (jacked up and in gear) to get the motor and running gear up to temperature and to check to see if the fans all worked and nothing got too hot. Check. Still waiting on the dyno appointment confirmation.
 
Good News

. . . . so, I will go to the shop this Saturday, Sept. 25th to make sure everything on my race truck is perfect before we dyno it - and will take photos and some movie clips of the motor running . . . to post here. I have made a booking for the following week for the full dyno pull. I may (fingers crossed) be on the drag strip by the following week-end. These projects sure take longer than you anticipate!

Any guesses about RWHP figures? Without NOS? With the single NOS nozzle? With two NOS nozzles?
 
Funny! You think about horsepower the way I do (as a bracket racer); it is an interesting general number, but not as interesting as a consistent elapsed time number.
 
Yeah hp is good talking sh1t in the pub, but track times are all that matter at the end of the day :) Unless you're a dyno queen ;)

You only chase hp to make you move and really, you want the least amount of hp that will get the job done :)
 
Justen, horsepower alone is not so critical, but the shape of the horsepower and torque curve is very important to a racer. The more torque "under the curve" = the quicker you will go in a quarter mile. The Thai car magazines often have "dyno day" articles where a "tuner" is "increasing" the horsepower for a customer. I always have to laugh because I know the "tuner" has made the car actually slower by making the HP and Torque curve "peaky"(though higher), that is, occur at a much higher rpm and within a narrower band. For an automatic trans drag racer like me, I want a broad torque curve for several reasons, not the least of which is so the chassis will not load and unload. With the little Vortech V9 blower on my 1UZ it may well be a bit peaky, but I will supplement a little NOS from 3500 to 5500 to fill the mid range until the boost comes on - only when I need to go quick to qualify. But for the brackets I will run without NOS and take whatever number I get with the blower . . . and then adjust the shifts and/or chassis for consistency and reliability.
 
...well i think Justen and others (including us) proved that 600+ft/lbs can easily be done with the stock manifold and even with the NON-turbo cams that come with the 1UZ (224 duration, 7mm lift)....power delivery UNTIL 4500rpm or so....and dropping afterwards...I must say i didn't like this drop of power after 4500rpm on the Autobahn....you want power until redline...period.
REAL power increases (incl. power shift to higher rpm) might come from manifold PLUS turbo cam upgrade(264+ duration)...
We still have the stock cams but upgraded the manifold and have peak power (535rwhp automatic box + 560ft/lbs) at 5500rpm...
So Doc, lets see what numbers you can produce...:D
 


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