Project Thread Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck
- Thread starter HarperRacingBangkok
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Actually there are a host of copper head gaskets available, some with the o-rings embedded and/or seals inside that do not need head/block grooving. They work fine on the street and are not race only. My concern was the re-use of the standard head bolts on a supercharged engine, albeit at low-boost -- a very bad idea. Since I had the heads off again, I went with a Cometic muti layer item. Little did I know I would have to wait soooooo long!
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
No News is No News.
Not much news to report. The cylinder head combustion chamber machining is complete - the 'best' way to lower compression. All I am waiting for now is the Cometic head gasket to put it all together again. My impatience grows.
I am off to Lopburi (100k north of Bangkok) for the week-end to photograph the 'city dwelling monkeys'.
Not much news to report. The cylinder head combustion chamber machining is complete - the 'best' way to lower compression. All I am waiting for now is the Cometic head gasket to put it all together again. My impatience grows.
I am off to Lopburi (100k north of Bangkok) for the week-end to photograph the 'city dwelling monkeys'.
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Heads are back from machine shop.
My race 1.3mm Cometic head gaskets have not arrived yet. It has been three weeks coming from The States . . . . . However, the cylinder heads are back from the machine shop after having the "humps" removed from the cylinder head chambers. This is the right way to lower compression on these 1UZ motors . . . as well as eliminate a source of detonation. The pent roof design, and some remaining squish around the cylinder, still allows good turbulence for fuel and air mixture, so I am told.
The workmanship on the machining is "pretty good" -- which is as good as I can get them in Thailand. I went the extra mile and had them sanded and polished, in case I want to race on E85 some day (with it's low tolerance for pre-ignition). The valve seats will need to be redone.
The very good Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump arrived at last, along with these strangly scarce -10 fittings.
My race 1.3mm Cometic head gaskets have not arrived yet. It has been three weeks coming from The States . . . . . However, the cylinder heads are back from the machine shop after having the "humps" removed from the cylinder head chambers. This is the right way to lower compression on these 1UZ motors . . . as well as eliminate a source of detonation. The pent roof design, and some remaining squish around the cylinder, still allows good turbulence for fuel and air mixture, so I am told.
The workmanship on the machining is "pretty good" -- which is as good as I can get them in Thailand. I went the extra mile and had them sanded and polished, in case I want to race on E85 some day (with it's low tolerance for pre-ignition). The valve seats will need to be redone.
The very good Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump arrived at last, along with these strangly scarce -10 fittings.
SuperRunner
New Member
not sure what your HP goals are, but I maxed out my A1000 on E70 at around 20psi(550rwhp-600rwhp), then I switched to a larger Weldon pump.
Nice looking chambers.
Nice looking chambers.
stevechumo
Active Member
If you shave off the head chamber to lower the compression, is it cheaper than using lower compression pistons?
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks All for the replies. Thanks SuperRunner for the FP warning, I appreciate it. On GT Race Gas I am looking for 425rwhp with the little blower @ 8 pounds boost, 475rwhp with one nozzle (.021) of NOS, and 525rwhp with two nozzles (.021 + .021) of NOS -- on a dry NOS set-up ECU triggered on at 3600 and off at 5800 (shift trans at 6500 - to save the A342 trans on the 1-2 shift). This should be at the limit, I believe, of the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump . . . and my 565cc injectors. If, or when, I race with E85 in the future I will have to go with bigger injectors and a bigger (or additional) fuel pump, that's for sure - - - - and a stronger bottom end (I have another 1UZ). I am thinking of blending the GT Race Gas with E85 to produce an exact/reliable E50 . . . the best of both worlds (anti-knock AND anti-pre-ignition).
I didn't want to cut the pistons to lower compression here, nor did I want the expense (on this particular motor) of forged pistons. The chamber machining and polishing cost me about US$75.oo - in Thailand. I did the chambers for a second reason other than the compression after taking to some road racers who do this: detonation. They run N/A with 13-14:1 compression and they knock with the chamber humps still in . . . . and don't with them out.
Anyone else been waiting for their Cometic head gaskets? I am looking into the copper head gaskets with embedded steel rings - are these available for the 1UZ? Anybody use them?
Thanks All for the replies. Thanks SuperRunner for the FP warning, I appreciate it. On GT Race Gas I am looking for 425rwhp with the little blower @ 8 pounds boost, 475rwhp with one nozzle (.021) of NOS, and 525rwhp with two nozzles (.021 + .021) of NOS -- on a dry NOS set-up ECU triggered on at 3600 and off at 5800 (shift trans at 6500 - to save the A342 trans on the 1-2 shift). This should be at the limit, I believe, of the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump . . . and my 565cc injectors. If, or when, I race with E85 in the future I will have to go with bigger injectors and a bigger (or additional) fuel pump, that's for sure - - - - and a stronger bottom end (I have another 1UZ). I am thinking of blending the GT Race Gas with E85 to produce an exact/reliable E50 . . . the best of both worlds (anti-knock AND anti-pre-ignition).
I didn't want to cut the pistons to lower compression here, nor did I want the expense (on this particular motor) of forged pistons. The chamber machining and polishing cost me about US$75.oo - in Thailand. I did the chambers for a second reason other than the compression after taking to some road racers who do this: detonation. They run N/A with 13-14:1 compression and they knock with the chamber humps still in . . . . and don't with them out.
Anyone else been waiting for their Cometic head gaskets? I am looking into the copper head gaskets with embedded steel rings - are these available for the 1UZ? Anybody use them?
SuperRunner
New Member
Do not use the copper gaskets. Installed one on a 7M last year and it blew on startup. WHen taking it off you could tell that the gasket did not compress evenly reguardless of going through a 4 stage torque process for the head bolts.
stevechumo
Active Member
I think the MLS gaskets are better than copper gaskets. I use MLS gaskets, but it also leaked the coolant 3 times and it took me 3 wrestling times to retorque the heads. Finally, there's no more leak now and it's been good under hard boost for a long time.
JustenGT8
New Member
Multilayer steel gasket is the way to go.....copper is old tech that was cheap and simple while MLS were rare and expensive. With MLS now cheap and readily available you would be mad to use anything else.
If you need a stop gap while you're waiting?, then i'd use a stock gasket ahead of a copper one.
If you need a stop gap while you're waiting?, then i'd use a stock gasket ahead of a copper one.
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Yes, I would prefer the MLS gasket, and have ordered a set a month ago, but it hasn't even been shipped yet. Has anyone here used the copper with steel ring insert?
XR8tt
Active Member
Copper gaskets are o/k on "ALL OUT RACE" motor and MUST be "O" ringed properly to seal... Or run "O" ring just outside fire ring on std graphite type gasket..
I use 3 bond to seal on my Ford engine with no issue..
Even re-used them..
If you have leaks it's NOT done properly !!!
I wouldn't use copper on a std rotating assembly due to power levels won't be high enough to warrant them.. Plus you require 12 or 13mm head studs..
To match the power level or there's a big chance of smaller studs / bolts stretching and heads lifting...
The equall and opposit reaction come into play here...
I use 3 bond to seal on my Ford engine with no issue..
Even re-used them..
If you have leaks it's NOT done properly !!!
I wouldn't use copper on a std rotating assembly due to power levels won't be high enough to warrant them.. Plus you require 12 or 13mm head studs..
To match the power level or there's a big chance of smaller studs / bolts stretching and heads lifting...
The equall and opposit reaction come into play here...
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Timing is everything.
Yes, timing is everything . . . good and bad. My Cometic 1.5mm (.060) head gaskets finally arrived, but in the meantime I also ordered a set of "standard" cylinder head STUDS, that will take two more weeks to get here. Why standard size? Well, I listened here, and to other places and people, about the unusability and unreliable torque readings of reusing the standard head BOLTS, the bottom end is already assembled and in the car and I do not want to disassemble it for the machining, and I am not going for 1000hp. "Just" 450hp with the blower and an occasional addition 100hp with the dry NOS for big event qualifying. The good multi-layer Cometic gasket plus the head studs should do the job. I am fully aware of the development path for the "ultimate" 1UZ, so I do not need advice for that kind of project. I do not want to build a 1000hp 1UZ and then run it at 450hp. I race in a particular drag racing class that does not require me to evolve ever greater amounts of power to be competitive, but rather tune for consistency and predictability run after run. But about that timing: I leave for a two-week winter photographic expedition to the remote parts of the South Island of New Zealand this Sunday. Bad timing.
This is how the right and left side Cometic head gasket arrived.
Looks good through the bubble wrap. These gaskets along with the standard head studs and 60 ft.lbs. of torque should work fine with my combination.
Yes, timing is everything . . . good and bad. My Cometic 1.5mm (.060) head gaskets finally arrived, but in the meantime I also ordered a set of "standard" cylinder head STUDS, that will take two more weeks to get here. Why standard size? Well, I listened here, and to other places and people, about the unusability and unreliable torque readings of reusing the standard head BOLTS, the bottom end is already assembled and in the car and I do not want to disassemble it for the machining, and I am not going for 1000hp. "Just" 450hp with the blower and an occasional addition 100hp with the dry NOS for big event qualifying. The good multi-layer Cometic gasket plus the head studs should do the job. I am fully aware of the development path for the "ultimate" 1UZ, so I do not need advice for that kind of project. I do not want to build a 1000hp 1UZ and then run it at 450hp. I race in a particular drag racing class that does not require me to evolve ever greater amounts of power to be competitive, but rather tune for consistency and predictability run after run. But about that timing: I leave for a two-week winter photographic expedition to the remote parts of the South Island of New Zealand this Sunday. Bad timing.
This is how the right and left side Cometic head gasket arrived.Looks good through the bubble wrap. These gaskets along with the standard head studs and 60 ft.lbs. of torque should work fine with my combination.
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Back from the South island of New Zealand. It was very cold . . . . but fresh and clear-- just what this Bangkok resident wanted! No car news: still waiting on the ARP head studs.
Will race again one day soon . . . with the supercharged 1UZ V-8
. . . as soon as the ARP head studs get here, that is!
Will race again one day soon . . . with the supercharged 1UZ V-8 . . . as soon as the ARP head studs get here, that is!
Attachments
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Hey! That's pretty strange . . . . a photo of [very nice] Cobras was somehow attached to my last post! Binary Gremlins working their mischief again at the Lextreme server!
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
The [very expensive] ARP/Lextreme standard head studs FINALLY arrived. I took those, and the Cometic head gasket to the shop. Re-assembly can commence!
HarperRacingBangkok
Member
Actually there are a host of copper head gaskets available, some with the o-rings embedded and/or seals inside that do not need head/block grooving. They work fine on the street and are not race only. My concern was the re-use of the standard head bolts on a supercharged engine, albeit at low-boost -- a very bad idea. Since I had the heads off again, I went with a Cometic muti layer item. Little did I know I would have to wait soooooo long!
XR8tt
Active Member
Copper gaskets require upgraded bolts / studs due to extra cylinder pressures ..
Or more the point when copper gaskets are required is when cylinder pressures [boost] are high enough to require them..
Otherwise std graphite , MLS / Cometic gaskets will do...
Why race engine was stated above..
In most cases where gaskets fail is heads lifting, blowing gasket out...
Or more the point when copper gaskets are required is when cylinder pressures [boost] are high enough to require them..
Otherwise std graphite , MLS / Cometic gaskets will do...
Why race engine was stated above..
In most cases where gaskets fail is heads lifting, blowing gasket out...
