Project Thread Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
. . there is a lot of talk on this site about the standard lower manifold runners restricting airflow above 5000rpm . . .
True, in stock form (even an unopened) 1UZ UCF10 will show a torque peak around 4500rpm, and rapidly dropping afterwards...this has been proven by dyno sheets many times. In supercharged applications you have a different (more flowing?) manifold design.....so, my guess is that the cams might, in both SC en turbo setups, be the limiting factor.
In retrospective, I think we should have changed the cams first before making a new manifold...

Just look at Majoola, RATS, etc...once you get all the limiting factors out and make the adjustments that are needed (valve springs etc etc..) you get a 4.0 V8 race engine capable of 1000+ hp....RATS made 1005hp on 1,6bar from a (big) SC....
http://rats.no/omega_tg.html

Anyone has a dyno sheet with stock manifold with upgraded cams ?...

But the are so many factors...so Doc, lets see what power you can make from your setup...:D :D...for sure some interesting torque numbers....
 
Anyone has a dyno sheet with stock manifold with upgraded cams ?...

But the are so many factors...so Doc, lets see what power you can make from your setup...:D :D...for sure some interesting torque numbers....

Better yet, cams, ported heads and ITBs with stock lower manifold. Basically as good as you'll get and guess what? Torque still nosed over early ;)

opposite end was everything stock bar a good short runner ITB....made increasing power out to 7000rpm.

Yes there are interactions etc but time and time again that stock lower manifold comes forth as the major impediment.

Still you'll make 400rwkw with it in place and do it easy.....less power even easier obviously.....so not a deal breaker and makes for a nice torquey setup.
 
Thanks Fasteddie and JustenGT8. I will find out tomorrow morning (knock on wood) what I have. I wouldn't mind a fat torque curve below 5000 . . . . good for drag racing. I am angling for one of those Kiwi single plane high rise single 4bbl intake manifolds . . . convert it to EFI . . . single big TB . . . ZEX perimeter NOS plate . . . . on a .030 over 2UZ . . . . . my next motor for my little racer. I am also working with AVO about casting a large, short runner 1UZ lower manifold. You have to plan ahead if you want to race in Thailand! Years ahead!
 
True, in stock form (even an unopened) 1UZ UCF10 will show a torque peak around 4500rpm, and rapidly dropping afterwards...this has been proven by dyno sheets many times. In supercharged applications you have a different (more flowing?) manifold design.....so, my guess is that the cams might, in both SC en turbo setups, be the limiting factor.
In retrospective, I think we should have changed the cams first before making a new manifold...

Just look at Majoola, RATS, etc...once you get all the limiting factors out and make the adjustments that are needed (valve springs etc etc..) you get a 4.0 V8 race engine capable of 1000+ hp....RATS made 1005hp on 1,6bar from a (big) SC....
http://rats.no/omega_tg.html

Anyone has a dyno sheet with stock manifold with upgraded cams ?...

But the are so many factors...so Doc, lets see what power you can make from your setup...:D :D...for sure some interesting torque numbers....


Yep this was interesting...
Hardere kammaksler med mer durasjon og høyere løft krever høyere ventil fjærtrykk for å unngå ventilflyt. Det er også noen som mener at motorer med overlading trenger høyere fjærtrykk. Teorien bak denne påstanden må bli at ladetrykket utøver et trykk på fremsiden av ventilen som ønsker å åpne denne. Ventiler med større diameter vil bli påvirket ytterligere. Vi valgte å lage disse justerbare kamdrevsatsene slik at vi i hvertfall kan justere å ha kontroll på innsugsiden i forhold til sesifikasjonene på kamkortet. Når dette var gjort så stemte eksosiden også! Det er mye arbeid i slike "detaljer", men det gjør jo ikke noe. Det er jo spennende og interessant!
 
955 lb-ft of torque @ 5500 comes out to 1000 HP, but I really don't think you're getting that amount of torque with only 5.5 psi of boost.

HP = Torque x RPM / 5252

955 x 5500 / 5252 = 1000.095 HP

I think your guys may need to have their torque sensor recalibrated.
 
955 lb-ft of torque @ 5500 comes out to 1000 HP, but I really don't think you're getting that amount of torque with only 5.5 psi of boost.

HP = Torque x RPM / 5252

955 x 5500 / 5252 = 1000.095 HP

I think your guys may need to have their torque sensor recalibrated.
I agree with John here.
 
Yes, yes, and yes. I have talked to the dyno operator and he says this is "delivered torque" . . . . without corrections. I do not know why he used this particular method. I sent him an e-mail for more info. There is NO WAY this motor made 955 ft. lbs. of torque w/o NOS. There is a computation for converting this number to more familiar torque figures. I am waiting for my friend to send them to me. The HP figure from the run seems low! The dyno showed 280hp (at 5.5 psi) . . . running 72% duty on 565 injectors at a perfect AFR. Hell . . . the standard motor makes nearly that!

It ran really well . . . and strong all the up to 7000 rpm . . . and the tiny NOS shot added even better numbers (we guessed we had a 50hp shot in). Still, we were there to get the map in the ECU with safe AFR in all circumstances . . . and we did that. I only wish the hp and torque numbers were more understandable.

More to come.
 
Oops! Indeed!

OOPS! Indeed :eek:

7HoleDown.jpgDuring the last dyno pull the engine would not rev to 5000 and there were strange noises. Upon returning to the shop the number 7 cylinder was found to have zero compression. Removing the head revealed the number 7 piston could be pushed down with one finger. A broken rod! Rats! :eek::eek::eek:
 
Yes, factory early "big" rods -- unopened low mileage bottom end . . . . taken to 7000 rpm with only "315" rwhp on a 40hp shot of NOS . . . seems like they could have done better.:cool:
 
Bugger, sorry to see that mate after all the dramas to date :(

I'm a bit stuffed why you are having so much trouble? My totally stock, 80,000km wrecker engine ran 320rwkw for years. The new stocker which has way more kms on it (and had siezed valves before i go it running), laid down a lazy 270rwkw with the roots SC and has now done 3 competition events and a full day on the dyno. It was doing pulls on the dyno that had the exhausts glowing bright orange 1 ft past the collector!!!

315rwhp is just girly power for these engines? the 1st time i ran mine on the dyno with NO tune and just 6.5psi it made 350rwhp. It's seen 530rwhp without batting an eyelid and when i ran the TT and SC at the same time for a few months it was regularly seeing 25psi!!!! Not good for longevity but it took it.

I don't want to jinx myself but surely i can't just be having an amazing run of luck?
 
Sorry to hear about that, though I tend to agree with JustenGT8, I ran stock rods at upto 20psi with a large turbo regularly but not over 6500RPM, it ran around 550 HP. No problems with months of thrashing on the street.

You can see in your picture where the piston has impacted on the squish area of the head chamber. You will need to inspect very closely to see what the mode of failure was, let’s see some pics, it might have been a rod bolt letting go, I’ve done that before on a 850HP 2J, stock rod bolts don’t like months of high rpm.

Don’t worry about seemingly spurious dyno numbers, they look OK when you crunch the numbers and look reasonable – 280 WHP, for a base tune and for that low boost level 0.3 bar and lowered compression motor.

From the torque number readings, if your diff is a 4.1:1, assuming say 20% drive train loss then roughly;

With Nos = (1089/4.1)/0.8 = 332 Ftlbs so (332x5000)/5252 = 316 FHP/252 WHP.
Without Nos = (955/4.1)/0.8 = 291 Ftlbs so (291x5000)/5252 = 277 FHP/221 WHP.

The above numbers calculate power at peak torque only, peak power will be occurring somewhere after peak torque, so the 280 WHP will be about right. Might seem a little low but don’t forget it’s probably an honest dyno.

Once you get the rod issue fixed then figure out a way of getting some more boost.
 
I wouldn't run forced induction and N20 with std rods...
I'll go against what others say here..
A race engine should have race rods and pistons...
A forged assembly takes the abuse...
N20 has such a heavy load on pistons / bearings..
1 once of detonation things go bad so quick...
Flame jacket on...
Valves have been in contact with piston ???
Boost holding valve open ???
 
...bummer, Doc !
Rod failure: happen to me the first time aswell....although that was with the UCF20 block ("weak rods")...
What's the plan now ?.....just get the same UCF10 block and hope this can take the wanted tune ?...
I am sure Lextreme can sent you one for free :D....
 
The only failures I have ever seen on these (std) engines are rods and sleeves everything else seems to hold out.
 


Back
Top