Project Thread Supercharged 1UZ Bangkok Drag Truck

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Doc,

Looking mighty good.

I can already see those front whees lifting in the air.

I see you have a belt tensioner on your supercharger belt but it looks like it is on the tension side of the belt. You may find this causes belt slip, if it does you may need to put it on the bottom side of the belt. As far as bleeding off boost at idle goes I suspect it will be one of those trial and error things until you find the right set up. Start with the lowest spring and go up from there would be my suggestion. With non std cams etc it's hard to know what the idle situation will be like without running it.
 
Cobber, thanks for the tensioner pulley tip - I will keep my eye on it. My engine builder and I have different feelings about how tight is 'tight enough' for the blower belt. I think nearly 'rock hard', he thinks a little bouncy. We will see. I have ordered 3, 4, and 5 pound springs for the blow-off . . . but, as you say, I have no idea of what I will need with those Kelford cams.

Regards,

Doc
 
Doc,

If it's a fixed tensioner you will be fine, if it is a sprung tensioner it may pull up and slip.

Good luck with the run hope all goes well.
 
Sorry Doc, for those of us running PD chargers, we didn't have much advise to offer you on BOV's. For the guys running centrifugals, I don't know why they didn't chime in with something. I know it's been discussed in the past here. Did you have a search on the subject?
 
You don't have to go through the hassle of deciding which spring rate to use for the blow-off valve. You can use an adjustable blow-off valve that we turbo guys use. BOV or Bypass valve work similarly and they're just used to vent out the air when the TB is closed.

I'm using the Greddy BOV for my turbo and I can adjust it to any softness or stiffness that I want. All it takes is turning a screw. If I adjust it really soft, it'll open up with a slight closing of the throttle body at low boost. If I adjust it stiff, then it'll take some high boost to open. This is the one that I'm using. The screw on the top is used to increase/decrease the spring tension inside the housing.
 

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Stevechumo and Cribbj, thanks for the input. The adjustable BOV is a good idea. I did a search on line and learned a lot about supercharger and turbo boost management, there are some differences. I have ordered the 7 pound spring.

I "finished" the assembly of my 1UZ last night, but didn't start it . . . it was just too late for any of us to be in full command of our senses. We will start it up, and trouble-shoot the inevitable little "issues," tonight. I appreciate all the help and interest I received from this site, even though my car isn't a Lexus. I didn't know where else to go on-line for good reliable info without the BS. You guys have been honest and and I appreciate it. Please feel free to offer a critique of how I have done things.

Here are the pics of the completely assembled Vortech V-9 supercharged 1UZ in my race car.

The complete story of the build-up can be found on my web page: http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com/racing-projects-blog/

Regards,

Doc
 

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A Beautiful Sound!

Go here for a short video of the wonderful sound a supercharged 1UZ makes. I will post a longer clip after this week-end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exeCuuxA1k8

Also, here is a photo of Art and his crew from Voodoo Racing Inc. in Pattaya, Thailand who handled the 1UZ installation and were on hand for the initial start-up trouble-shooting.
 

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Anodyne,

Thanks for the tip. I will keep the belt tension where it is, then check once it is broken in . . . and I have a few 1/4 mile, high rev passes on it, then make any tensioner adjustments that are needed. I am very happy with the belt alignment -- it seems to be as straight as can be.

Doc
 
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I had some 'new combination bugs' to sort out last week-end, and didn't make the first round call. The motor started, but then it dwindled and died. At first we suspected one of the coils was wired out of sequence, but settled on a stuck (open) injector or two. With wasted spark you really know when the injector is stuck open: it pops and bangs like crazy! We removed the injectors and sent them off to the injector shop. My builder/tuner got my injectors back from the injector shop: several of the injectors were, indeed, stuck open . . . a not-uncommon problem with new 'high impedance' injectors (they use less power to open and close the injectors). They have all been 'worked over' so they all are functioning properly. This is the problem that caused my race car not to run properly -- to pop and sputter, and to eventually drown the plugs and quit. We will be back at it this week-end.
PinkInjectorSide6741sm650.jpg
Sometimes "new" high impedance injectors stick when first used. I had several of these (565cc Subaru) injectors stick open, confusing us as to what the problem was. All eight are now working properly.

Follow my build-up and [eventual] tuning on my Racing Projects Blog: http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com/racing-projects-blog/
 
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HarperRacingBangkok said:
My builder/tuner got my injectors back from the injector shop: several of the injectors were, indeed, stuck open . . . a not-uncommon problem with new 'high impedance' injectors (they use less power to open and close the injectors). They have all been 'worked over' so they all are functioning properly.

Sometimes "new" high impedance injectors stick when first used. I had several of these (565cc Subaru) injectors stick open, confusing us as to what the problem was. All eight are now working properly.
Click to expand...

Amen to that, have had it happen twice on the dyno. Nearly hydrolocked a motor because of this problem. It's on our list to test fire each injector dry now, and make sure they have the distinctive "click", not a dull tap. If they don't "click" we take them out, clean them up, and "buzz" them at a higher frequency until they do "click"
 
Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking. I had new SARD 800cc injectors on my previous race motor (a turbo 1.5JZ) and three of the six did not work 'out of the box' (two did not open and one was stuck open), but worked fine after 'clicking' them. I should have known better this time -- and tested them first! After I got the current set back [fixed] from the injector shop, my engine guy actually installed them in a customer's supercharged 1UZ at his shop to be sure they worked at WOT -- they did.

Doc

http://drjeffbangkok.squarespace.com/racing-projects-blog/
 
I spent another frustrating evening not getting my 1UZ to run. It popped, banged, and threw burning fuel out the header and onto the floor! Now that the injectors have been checked out as OK, it looks like I am back to the "coils are wired wrong" theory. I will have to get my tuner and the electrician at the car at the same time to sort this one out. I hope we didn't hydraulic the motor in the process. I had some time to take some nice pics though.

ScoopTopDetails8800sm650.jpg
Details, details, details
1UZFront8815sm650.jpg
High Tech air filter - designed to strain birds and large debris out of the high speed intake air column.
1UZSide8810sm650.jpg
Looks good -- won't start, I got dem ol' new car blues!
ScoopFrontView8816sm650.jpg
Cutting edge air filtration technology pioneered by my friend John, a.k.a. 'The High Road Skulker'. It also doubles as handy track-side food strainer. Helpful hint: tell your wife prior to borrowing kitchen appliances lest she sees photos on your web page. Yes Dear, I'll take that trash out right now.

Update on Monday, December 7, 2009 at 3:48PM by
To test the theory about the injectors (perhaps some have become 'grounded' causing them to stay open all the time), they were sent to the injector shop for testing and made right, then they were mounted on another supercharged 1UZ, along with loading my race car AEM ECU map into the other 1UZ's AEM ECU -- low and behold, the other 1UZ ran perfectly! It revved just fine. So, the problems we are experiencing are electrical. We will next try plugging in the AEM ECU from my race car into the other supercharged 1UZ's plugs to see if it works (to test that my ECU is not at fault). If my ECU is functional on the other 1UZ, then the problem is wiring . . . most likely a grounding of the injector wires somewhere . . . . . Of course, there could still be some wiring problems with the coils . . . just to add to the fun. We will sort it out . . . if I can get my tuner together with the wiring guy at the race car with some test equipment [note: now scheduled for tomorrow evening]
 
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Jeff have a close look at your cam timings too. Pops, bangs and burning fuel out the exhaust can come from mistimed cams.
 
Hmmm Doc the engine is looking good so it should go good too.....

Non interference is for a std engine and cam package, might not be true for this set up.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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