Project Thread Project SC400TT

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Ryan knows much of the following but for thread reader clarification:

The stock parts are designed to funnel air from the high pressure areas in front and below the front bumper, channel this pressurized air to the A/C and radiator cores and then have a relatively lower pressure area for the air to escape which is why the air flows through.

STOCK parts are sufficient for stock cooling when the vehicle is used as intended and there will be some degree of "extra" capacity engineered into the design in case the owner lives and drives in harsh conditions.

If you take a stock car to a racetrack and drive it as hard as possible you can usually uncover the limits to the stock engineering. Brakes are usually the first part of a stock car to exceed engineering limits with cooling of engine temperature, oil temperature and transmission temperature (not necessarily in that order) reaching limits next.

Heat management is the result of component design, packaging and power levels reached and the duration of power use. If you decrease the efficiency of the stock system you will reach the limits sooner even with stock power and use. When adding components such as an intercooler (or other coolers or components) into the area the engineers use for stock cooling air flow the efficiency of the stock design is reduced. When the intercooler (or other components) ADD additional heat to the now reduced air flow the reduction in efficiency is compounded. Even with stock power levels the margin can be crossed and overheating occur. With decreased cooling efficiency and increased power levels it becomes clear that a system that is better than stock should be engineered.

Ryan made reasonable choices with an upgraded radiator. His turbo system packaging leaves little room for cooling fans so the electric ones were required. His impressive goals have had the car in an unfinished state for an extended period of time. His eagerness to drive the car is completely understandable. In doing so without the from bumper cover the car was able to be driven without overheating. Adding the cover without the remainder of the stock air management parts caused overheating. Replacing the stock air management parts (which required some modification for fitment) and changing the electric fans looks to have made the car drivable without overheating. The question now would be is there sufficient margin to operate with increased power?

The pictures of ducting that I posted earlier are examples of racecar engineering both amateur and professional. Understanding the flow of air as it reaches the car, moves through the system and then exits the car is fundamental in designing an improved (better than stock) system. For this application where the goal is considerable power I would look to make improvements.

The front of a car compresses then air as the vehicle moves through it. This creates high pressure at the front and this pressure is what is mostly used by stock engineers. As the air flows over the hood it is accelerated and the pressure drops. This is why some racecars have EXIT ports in the hood to allow air an outlet from the BACK of the radiator area. At the windshield the air is again compressed and another area of pressure is available and some cars duct this area to the engine inlets to give the engine higher pressure air increasing power.

Air flow over the top of a car accelerates the air decreasing pressure. This can be seen on many older cloth top convertibles where the top "bulges" up from the pressure decrease. If enough air is allowed to flow under the car the difference in pressure between under and over the car actually creates LIFT just like an airplane wing. NASCAR cars have air dams at the front to prevent as much air as possible from going under the car. This worked great UNLESS the car lost control and slid sideways. This allowed air under the car as well as over the car and turned the car into an "airplane wing". This "wing" going 150+mph had plenty of lift and cars took off and became airborne. NASCAR implemented "flaps" to combat this problem and these can be seen popping up to bleed off pressure when a car slides sideways preventing this from happening.

Back to cooling.
As MUCH of the available high pressure air at the front bumper area should be CHANNELED via sealed DUCTING to the cooling cores. The ducting should prevent pressure from escaping to other areas. The goal is maximum pressure feeding the cores. Additional ducting BETWEEN the cores is advisable to keep the air flowing through ALL the cores and not just the intercooler and or the A/C core... Pressure needs to be keep as high as possible to the front of the actual engine coolant radiator core. Added heat from the intercooler and A/C cores makes keeping the pressure even more critical.

Once as much pressure is captured and focused on the cooling cores the next goal is REDUCING pressure at the radiator outlet. All the pressure in the world in front of the cores does no good without a place for the air to flow OUT of the cores. Flow ONLY occurs when the pressure is higher in front of the core than behind it. When the vehicle is not moving fans are required to create this pressure difference. At low speeds the fans are often still needed until a sufficient pressure DIFFERENTIAL is created by vehicle motion.

In some situations the fan(s) and fan shroud will restrict the potential air flow. Engineers add "flaps" that will pop open when this happens. The air behind the radiator can be managed. Creating outlet ducting can increase flow through the cores. This ducting would have outlets where the pressure is naturally LOWERED by vehicle motion. This is why some cars (like the Ford GT40) have radiator vent(s) in the hood. These vents connect to a sealed DUCT from the radiator outlet.

It is great to have a car that can operate without overheating. It is better yet to have a car with MORE cooling capacity than is needed. Attention spent here is time that will not be spent later dealing with the (possibly expensive) ramifications of overheating.

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Sorry guys...I have been real busy lately...Here are some of the pics...If you have not modified your front end or added a FMIC, you should not have to do what I did.

Stock front underbody louvered panel. This panel directs air up into the air chamber behind the front air duct and air dam, but directly towards the lower half of the AC Condensor and Radiator.
ModifiedUnderpanel1step1.jpg


Side by Side comparison of the cut one, which I used to add to the stock one for the added length needed to attach this due to the FMIC protruding below the level of the front bumper cover.
Undersidepanels.jpg

Modified panel after riveting the 2 pieces together. perfect fit, and it works! Plus, the rivets ensure it will stay together...Do it right the first time!
ModifiedfrontUnderbodypanel.jpg

Spacers added...After test fitting this, I added 2 more on either side of this one located in the center...These actually rest against the bottom of my FMIC, and keep the bottom of the panel off the FMIC, and the louvers are fully functional this way, so that they not only direct air up befind the center air duct, but they also direct air up to the lower front area of the intercooler too!!

Spacer.jpg

The other panel is the flat one that covers the whole underside of the engine, and has the fold out section to fold down when changing your oil filter, and works in conjunction with the front louvered panel.

Ryan
 
Gorgeous looking car Ryan; are the overheating issues sorted now?

Done any high boost runs on the entrance ramps or the interstates?

It would be interesting if you'd go down the list of potential causes that we all discussed and dispel a few myths. I for one felt the shroud, or lack of a well designed one was probably the key problem, however I'm beginning to come around now to the thinking that if your fans are large enough, and cover enough of the radiator core, that perhaps the shroud can be a handicap (we now know a big shroud with small fans can restrict the air flow at speed, unless there are blow out flaps).
 
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Thanks John. The aesthetics are not yet complete...But will be after dyno tune. I am looking into a mild custom wide body for the front and the rear, as well as lowering the car a little more...no gap in the front and rear wheel wells, badges added, wheels re-done, etc.

As soon as I complete the rebuild of my wiring harness for the fans, I will do so John. I am building a separate wiring harness per fan, and I should have that done this week.

Ryan

Gorgeous looking car Ryan; are the overheating issues sorted now?

Done any high boost runs on the entrance ramps or the interstates?

It would be interesting if you'd go down the list of potential causes that we all discussed and dispel a few myths. I for one felt the shroud, or lack of a well designed one was probably the key problem, however I'm beginning to come around now to the thinking that if your fans are large enough, and cover enough of the radiator core, that perhaps the shroud can be a handicap (we now know a big shroud with small fans can restrict the air flow at speed, unless there are blow out flaps).
 
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Car is looking sweet Ryan....except perhaps for the Chrysler spec wheels? It needs some tough jap style wheels...Works, Rota, Varrstoen, Volk etc.

The rest is outstanding :) and good to hear the cooling issues are sorted.
 
Good to see some progress! Have you thought of the Auto Couture body kit? It's similar like the OEM body with the exception of making it complete. :)
 
I smell some HRE.......

Nope, not HRE...Not worth the price for what you get...

Car is looking sweet Ryan....except perhaps for the Chrysler spec wheels? It needs some tough jap style wheels...Works, Rota, Varrstoen, Volk etc.

The rest is outstanding :) and good to hear the cooling issues are sorted.

Chrysler spec??? Those are Altstadt Type 1 multi piece wheels...Forged aluminum, lightweight, JDM type...They are a split 5 spoke. No worries for your thoughts Justen, but I love those wheels...I think all chrome has gone by the wayside though, and perhaps that is why you thought that? I actually plan on making a set of custom wheels, but I am undecided on the size...20" has a lot of tire sizes to choose from, but literally riding on rubberbands instead of tires and bad on the back plus poor performance, 19" are a great fit and look, but very small tire selections, and more expensive than the 20's, 18" are much more comfortable, but seem to be "old school" now. My Altstadt's are 18", and they ride well. I was considering also removing the chrome from the centers, redoing them in brushed silver with black accents, moving the rear barrels to the front centers, and having a new 4" lipped custom rear 2 piece barrel made for the rears.

Good to see some progress! Have you thought of the Auto Couture body kit? It's similar like the OEM body with the exception of making it complete. :)

Steve, I just added the 2000 refresh...all factory new and OEM. I do not really like the Auto Couture...and the quality of the bumper (I have held one in my hands) is not impressive...Heavy fiber glass, no FRP, which I prefer. I also added the Big Win Lip and had that custom molded onto the front bumper...I am considering taking the Z06 rear wheel shoulder arches, and custom fitting and molding them onto the SC, along with the Vertex front widebody fenders...Not the Vertex ridge, even though I do like theRidge front fenders, but I hate the rest of the Ridge kit...to me, it is hideous...

Ryan knows much of the following but for thread reader clarification:

John, Ditto...Thanks so much for taking the time and energy to write up such a thorough explanation...Sorry for not commenting sooner. I agree with all you have said, and as usual, you are always on the money!

Ryan
 
Gorgeous looking car Ryan; are the overheating issues sorted now?

Done any high boost runs on the entrance ramps or the interstates?

It would be interesting if you'd go down the list of potential causes that we all discussed and dispel a few myths. I for one felt the shroud, or lack of a well designed one was probably the key problem, however I'm beginning to come around now to the thinking that if your fans are large enough, and cover enough of the radiator core, that perhaps the shroud can be a handicap (we now know a big shroud with small fans can restrict the air flow at speed, unless there are blow out flaps).

John: I hope to know tonight about the cooliong...I do really need each fan on a separate harness as the previous one I spliced into heated up quite a bit, and actually melted the plastic covering around the fuse. Thank goodness for fusing as that kept me from having a fire. The fuse blew as well, so until I get that compoleted, I do not want to say 100% for sure.

Regarding high boost runs... I need to settle out the issue with the transmission...I found that I had never initialized the external AEM MAP that is dedicated to the transmission for proper functioning, and that seems to be a large part of why the shifting was not functioning properly...I need to be sure there are no wiring snafus there too. So once that is done, I expect to be able to do some decent pulls!!

As I noted, I will go down the list and note my findings once I get this sorted out...But, at this point, I do not think a shroud is necessary if the fans cover a sufficient area of the radiator. Ducting air seems to be absolutely critical though...

Ryan
 
Yeah sorry to sound critical, the car is so well done....and you are right, i have never liked chrome centres. Chrome centres belong on wire wheels only and preferably on an E-type jag where it looks sweet ;)

I think the 18s fill the guards enough and you are dead on with tyre issues. Personally on a black car i think you need to go with a dark satin finish wheel or if you want a bit of bling then gold centred 3 peice Works Meisters or the VS XX :)

The car is so bad arse that i'd be trying to keep it looking as sinister as possible...a real "Speed Hunters" car. Any of the Varrstoen wheels would suit it perfectly and look tough as...not to mention be about the same price as the mods you are planning to the current wheels.

My Aristo has the sort of look i'd be going for, although you car is miles more refined than my poor old tow hack :)

Aristo.jpg

Wheels are such a personal thing though, so i won't ride you too hard about it ;)
 
I just took a look in my Tundra engine bay and the engine bay is tight. It doesn't have the bottom air ducting plate like the SC. It's basically blocked completely with a steel plate where no air/rock/dirt can get into the engine bay. However, it has a really powerful fan that pulls the air from the radiator and pushes it out of the engine. Therefore, I think a powerful fan is very critical as well.
 
A long under tray still pulls air through big time while traveling..
Big 4WD have larger radiators and fans due to slow hard work
they're built for...
In a car it also helps with handling, although at high speed which is more race car
than daily road car..
 
Yeah sorry to sound critical, the car is so well done....and you are right, i have never liked chrome centres. Chrome centres belong on wire wheels only and preferably on an E-type jag where it looks sweet ;)

I think the 18s fill the guards enough and you are dead on with tyre issues. Personally on a black car i think you need to go with a dark satin finish wheel or if you want a bit of bling then gold centred 3 peice Works Meisters or the VS XX :)

The car is so bad arse that i'd be trying to keep it looking as sinister as possible...a real "Speed Hunters" car. Any of the Varrstoen wheels would suit it perfectly and look tough as...not to mention be about the same price as the mods you are planning to the current wheels.

My Aristo has the sort of look i'd be going for, although you car is miles more refined than my poor old tow hack :)

Aristo.jpg

Wheels are such a personal thing though, so i won't ride you too hard about it ;)

Great suggestions Justen...Nice Aristo! Wheels are a personal thing...I gotta tell you though, to have a brand new set of three piece forged aluminum wheels made is expensive...No where near what I will pay to redo the 18" wheels on the car now...I have decided to tone it down on them...I will move the rear barrels to the front wheels, which will provide me some nice lippage up top, and then I will put new custom 3-piece barrels on the rear with 4.5" lips. The centers will be de-chromed and brushed silver...I will most likely blacken the flanges in a gloss black where the chrome rivets mount, blacken the bolt holes, and then add the same black to the inner barrels of all 4 wheels. The lips will be high polished and cleared in a ceramic clear. Still much cheaper than a new set of wheels...But, alas! I will also make a set of custom 20 inch wheels with the same lippage as the refurbished 18's, and a brushed center with the same black set up in the same places as well...Except I plan to blacken the windows (sides of the spokes) on the 20's...It will be a mesh design much like the Work VSXX wheels. Should look badass on the black car with the black BBK set up...:)

I just took a look in my Tundra engine bay and the engine bay is tight. It doesn't have the bottom air ducting plate like the SC. It's basically blocked completely with a steel plate where no air/rock/dirt can get into the engine bay. However, it has a really powerful fan that pulls the air from the radiator and pushes it out of the engine. Therefore, I think a powerful fan is very critical as well.

Agreed...I am going as powerful as I can go...

A long under tray still pulls air through big time while traveling..
Big 4WD have larger radiators and fans due to slow hard work
they're built for...
In a car it also helps with handling, although at high speed which is more race car
than daily road car..

Agreed....

Any update, Ryan? :)

Yes Steve...Next post.:)

Ryan
 
Update

Hey gang...

Sorry for the delay getting back on here...I have barely been on the forums at all lately...With the US economy being the way it is, I work harder to keep my income up, fortunately, I am with a most solid and financially conservative company which has always spent our money wisely, and invested back in our business wisely...so, we are actually doing quite well, and we continue to grow through the attrition of dissatisfied customers from our competitors, who continue to buy and merge their companies in a haphazard manner...This creates havoc with integrating cultures, product lines and in particular, billing systems, which results in poor customer experiences and frequently, a lack of cash flow. We also grow our company, but we do it much more carefully, and we are quite picky about buying hurting competitors, therefore, we are able to manage ourselves much more effectively, and we are able to provide excellence in customer service...Anyway, as I mentioned, due to my position, I can still control my income because I am on commission, but it means more time working than before...No worries...I like what I do.:)


Anyway, enough on that...My car, updates. I have not had much time to work on it lately...plus I had to fix the only oil leak I have really experienced...I traced it to the oil level sensor, as I believe I mentioned elsewhere...I decided to order a used one because since I was going there, I wanted to take no chances that it might be the sensor, and not the more common culprit...The inner gasket. I thought I would buy a new one until I nearly crapped in my pants when I asked the dealer for a price...$500 for a new one...Ouch...Just to tell me when my oil level is too low...Very important though...So, I searcehd until I found a used one, and bought it for $40. A new gasket was less than $2. I changed it out today...drained the oil, and it looked most excellent, I could determine no filings in the oil either...Color was still dark green, as I am using the Brad Penn Green Break in motor oil right now...I want to point out a few things I noticed...
  1. My oil sensor and the used one I bought were identical...But, mine was exceptionally clean, with virtually no residue build up on it because I am the second owner, and I have always changed my oil at 3,000 miles with Mobil 1. The previous owner had also maintained the car well.
  2. The used sensor was in very good shape, but it had a lot of build up on it...This tells me the owner of that car did not change out his motor oil nearly as often as he probably should. I cleaned it up, oiled it up, installed the new rubber gasket, and installed it.
  3. Another note was that I was able to twist the top pf my oil sensor back and forth in the aluminum housing a little bit...This is why I searched for another sensor, as I wondered if this would be a source for a small leak, as my oil leak was small, but defintiely a leak. I was unable to twist the top of the used sensor I bought, so this may indeed have been a factor.
  4. I noticed the gasket on my sensor was a bit hard and brittle along the edges...I do not recall, bit this may have been the only gasket I neglected to change...most likely due to an oversight...:confused: Oh well, done now.
  5. The car has new oil in it, and it is lubed up.
  6. I had thought I had a partially stripped bolt hold for one of the bolts on the oil sensor, but, not so...All tightened up well.
I also had removed the rear upper plenum EGR block off plate that I use to house my external AEM 3.5 BAR MAP sensor to check that everything was correct there as the transmission was not shifting properly...I found that I had not initialized the MAP sensor in the new PCS ECM...Once I did that, the transmission shifted correctly. Only thing was one of the damned bolt holes stripped out...Luckily, I wqs able to find a slightly longer bolt and it torqued down properly...If not, I would have had to take the whole damn upper plenum off and Heli-Coil it...Whew! Fortune prevailed. So, I completed that as well.

Tomorrow, I will drain the coolant once again, remove the radiator, and add the new fan, as one of the new 14" cooling fans died on me...If this happens again, I will order SPAL's and install them.

I will post up another update when I get a moment this week. That should get me ready for the Dyno tune. We shall see.

Ryan
 
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Tomorrow, I will drain the coolant once again, remove the radiator, and add the new fan, as one of the new 14" cooling fans died on me...If this happens again, I will order SPAL's and install them.

I will post up another update when I get a moment this week. That should get me ready for the Dyno tune. We shall see.

Ryan

Ryan, just get the SPAL's - and you'll never have to worry about fan failures again. On the Ferrari side, many guys have been running theirs for nearly 15 years. There are some very good reasons OEM's go ahead and spend the money to run SPAL's, and not Zirgo's or other aftermarket brands.

You can't put a price on the peace of mind you'll have, without having to worry about a cheap fan failing out on the road, then your car overheating and possibly cracking a head......

Looking forward to hearing about the dyno!
 
I never used SPAL, but I heard good things about them. I once used cheap fans and they got burned once they're overloaded. I almost got overheated. Another thing is good brand fans may have true CFM ratings, while cheap fans may have exaggerated CFM ratings.
 
I ordered the SPAL's...it's only money, right...:eek: they will be here on Friday, so I will not change it out until then. What's another few days...:confused:

Ryan
 


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