NOS rookie questions

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
That nitrous express FAQ is quite amusing: written BY chavs, FOR chavs:slaphappy

You've just got to think of wet as introduced with fluid (fuel) and dry introduced into a dry chamber (inlet manifold).
 
Jibby's is definitely a dry system,probably a 5121 or 5122 system from NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems)

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See those two solenoids at the upper lefthand corner,seperated by a T fitting. That's a dead giveaway of NOS' dry systems.

Dry System = Only nitrous is injected through the nozzle. Fueling is through the fuel injectors,either mechanically (increasing fuel pressure) or electronically.
NOS has both. At the tee on Jibby's system,that vacuum hose connects to the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum fitting. Since nitrous comes out at high pressure,this presses down against the regulator's diaphragm which in turn increases fuel pressure.
Their LS1 systems passes nitrous through the MAF,ECU reads a very cold intake air temp (sensor is in the MAF) and increases fuel delivery.
ZEX does it mechanically,has a similar dual solenoid/tee setup inside that purple anodized case.
Venom's dry systems are electronic,you have to tap into the fuel injectors' wiring so the system can change injector pulsewidth.

Wet System = Nitrous and fuel injected together through the nozzle. A single-fogger has a single nozzle before the throttle body (like a dry system),direct-port has individual nozzle(s) for every cylinder,you either drill/tap each intake manifold runner or those new fuel injector spacer/nitrous nozzle things that NOS and Nitrous Express make.

I've installed NOS dry and direct port systems,also have installed a ZEX system or two.
 
No problem.....It's all good...

Thanks for the breakdown tundra... That was a much more detailed post then my explaination of Dry/Wet systems.

Good post...
 
Here you go.
Pic #1 is wet nozzle in intake tube right before throttle body
Pic #2 is where I tapped off the fuel rail
Pic #3 is nozzle, solenoids, and fuel pressure safety switch
Not the best pics, but it gives you an idea of the setup. Will take more pics once I finish my rewiring. I was kinda messy when I was initially wiring the system, because I was just checking my wiring, testing it at TX2K6, and rewiring a few things. As a recommendation, if you get a fuel pressure safety switch on a wet setup, wire it inline with the ground for the nitrous solenoid only. Otherwise your system will pulse till your halfway down the track. That or make sure the switch is set to the right fuel pressure, which is what I forgot to do.
 
hi guys,, i have seen these,(gs400) cars run low 13s or quicker with nitrous.. one more thing is that because of all of the plastic--air box and stuff-it is pretty easy to "hide" the setup.. it may end up paying for itself--or better
mischievous.gif

because of the cars luxury status,, it is easy to "surprise" quite a few people--when racing.. lastly--this should end up being a very consistent car--again, great for some racing..
 
Elhsupra nice wet nos system... I am suprised you were able to inject the nos into the plastic hose intake part. You have no leaks at the throttle body during spray? How did you make the seal work as shown in your first picture?
 
Thanks
I drilled and tapped the hole, then threaded the nozzle in with some teflon tape. Then finished it with a small amount of silicone sealer around the nozzle. Works pretty good. Still runs a little rich, need to change my fuel jet. But I'll wait to do that until after I bump it up to a 150 shot. Always safer to be a little rich. And you are right, I also changed my plugs one step colder and gapped them down to .040. May regap them later, but it runs pretty good now.
 
elhsupra said:
Thanks
I drilled and tapped the hole, then threaded the nozzle in with some teflon tape. Then finished it with a small amount of silicone sealer around the nozzle. Works pretty good. Still runs a little rich, need to change my fuel jet. But I'll wait to do that until after I bump it up to a 150 shot. Always safer to be a little rich. And you are right, I also changed my plugs one step colder and gapped them down to .040. May regap them later, but it runs pretty good now.
Is that on a Supra or SC4 ? How did you tap the fuel rail ? Did you drill that hole ?
 
jibbby said:
jgscott, I just shot you an email on the dash kit.. Let me know....

Are you considering a nos system?
OK on email.

I have a 97 SC400.
Mods = 100 Shot Dry Zex, Walbro Fuel pump, Aeromotive AFP, Custom dual stepped X Chamber Exhaust, BFI. Unichip ECU, Ported and Matched upper and lower intake Manifold.

In process of converting to 150 wet kit Direct port w/ progressive controller.
 
Wow, I had no idea you were sporting that ride with nos,...good job and it must be fast.....How about the torque converter have you considered that upgrade? That little mod will really make your SC400 fly from a stand still..
 
ed_ma61 said:
sorry to report taht they dont - the post 98 vvti 1ufe has very pissy weak cast rods indeed
Ed,
Thanks for the correction. I check my 98+ 1UZFE shortblock from a LS400. Yes, its has weak rods too like the 2 and 3UZFE rods. In another word. Post 98 engines have weak rods regardless of engine model. Thanks for the correction.
 
jgscott said:
OK on email.

I have a 97 SC400.
Mods = 100 Shot Dry Zex, Walbro Fuel pump, Aeromotive AFP, Custom dual stepped X Chamber Exhaust, BFI. Unichip ECU, Ported and Matched upper and lower intake Manifold.

In process of converting to 150 wet kit Direct port w/ progressive controller.
Very interested in how that system performs. Mine sould be similar to that when I'm done, except with 150 shot, different cams, colder injectors and new diff, torque converter to help takeoffs along with a shift kit :veryhappy

DO you have any figures on it? Any problems you encountered?

Good work :veryhappy
 
Only problem was blew up the plastic intake boot elbow one day. Think it was because of a hole in the rubber fuel line from the dry kit. Ran a real fine tuned 150 shot once on the dyno and got 369 RWHP read on dyno.

OH forgot one other mod, SS Headers, and No cats, with O2 Simms.

Now working on a 150 wet shot conversion may go direct injector ports, with a Unichip, driver module to control a 2nd Map for Nitrous.

Don't want to go to TC or diff, like the way it is geared now.
 
I have been looking into if theses will fit the SC400 injectors. These screw into the stock injector holes and then you screw the injectors into these. The Nitrous and fuel is then evenly distributed to each port.

If this does not fit then I am going to try this new Nozzel that atomizes the fuel and Nitrous better.
 
That is the best way to go, just make sure you have no leaks when installed...

I strongly agree with LEX about tapping into the throttle body if you decide to connect and go that rought....The fitment is connected to a solid threaded metal surface as apposed to a plastic surface that may crack or leak over time....

I am also wondering if the injector adaptor fitments raises the injector seat position from it's normal operating stock position, and if so which it looks like it does could that cause any minor ill effects? Probably not....but just something to think about...
 

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Injector adaptor would not work. Too tall and the fuel rail or rails will not bolt in place. You will need to create a new injector/nozzle for this application.
 


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