NOS rookie questions

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
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new big400

New Member
I am wanting to put nos on my 98 GS4 and have a few questions I understand nos but not the different setups.

1 What brand would you reccomend(alot of people tell me zex)
2 I know isnt the safest but what is a good number to be at?(from what ive read 100-130 seems to be the norm)
3 From what I understand wet sprays gas and nos Do they make a wet system that sprays into your intake?

Thanks for any help Im frantically trying to get this car going for summer.

Jibby????
 
First of all, you have the best UZFE engine Toyota ever made (might not agree by all), but in my personal opinion, the 98+ 1uzfe is the best engine for FI in stock form. To start u have a good base already. Best of luck with it. Jibby will help you out with this one.
 
The system that sprays into your intake is called a dry system. Its then up to the fuel management (standard or otherwise) to add the extra fuel though the injectors.

100 shot seems to be considered safe on a more or less standard engine. I think I am going to go 150 shot but with quite a few complimentary mods with it too to make it safer and more efficient.

I'm going to go Zex because of a) the WOT activation, b) the extras they make for it such as the bottle heater/auto shutoff etc. and c) the colder injectors they make specifically for their application.
Other systems should be just as good if you want different things from it.
 
What kind of mods does it take to support 150 shot?Im running an srt intake and working on a full exhaust as we speak.
 
I haven't seen many people running Nitrous, so a lot is still a bit of trial and error. A few people I think are running 150 without many mods, but I'm going to have intake, full exhaust with headers, Unichip management, new cams, injectors, probably new fuel pump, and probably nitrous controller. Then the Zex kit with bottle heater. All that, along with higher stall torque converter (not much though), shift kit for the autobox, and different ratio diff.
 
I'm running a 125 wet setup now without any problems. The two best investments would be either a TPS or microthrottle switch on the throttle and a rpm window switch. Once you start spraying you will find all sorts of toys, safety equipment, and other accessories to enhance your nitrous setup. Everything from auto bottle heaters, fuel pressure safety switches, progressive control, direct port, etc, etc.....
I plan on installing a LC-1 wideband so that I can fine tune my A/F, my next step is probably progressive control or a second stage. My idea is if a certain "tundra" can spray and boost before he blows then I should be able to at least spray before I blow
 
Ok fellas I just saw this thread. Here is what I can bring to the table...

The wet system which combines nos spray and gas into the fuel lines is a good system to have for a shot of 150hp or more in my opinion...For A 100hp dry nos system which I recommend on the stock SC car is the safer of the two nos systems which I have been running regularly for over a year now.. The dry system connects directly into the throttle body.. You can also get a bottle heater and produce more hp like I am doing... You can do up to 150hp shot of nos on your stock injectors and tranny capacities but not anymore.. With 100hp nos shot or more you will also need to change out your stock fuel pump, ECU piggy and spark plugs.. A high volume Walbro electric fuel pump is the choice. Also 100hp shot or more you will probably need a piggy-back ecu installed to adjust the A/F ratio to run a little rich for the nos shot or you may experience some pinging at high rpm...Nos does not like a lean mix.. Cooler running spark plugs are also recommended, Autolite makes a good nos spark plug that I have used for over a year now.. That is about it....My nos system is safe, reliable and kicks hard.. Good luck

You can search some nos threads and find pic's of my setup.. Make sure you connect your heater core to shut off with your ignition, and trust me you will want to get a heater core... Why you ask? When the bottle gets low on nos you get a very low shot, but the heater core changes that and enables you to get the most out of your nos system.. A 100hp nos shot can become 125-150 shot at a new bottle charge..

The nos bottles can handle 3000lbs of pressure and more, I have never ventured past 1500lbs of pressure and it was a rush thanks to the heater core...

I hope that info helps.... Shopping list- Nos system, heater core, Ecu piggy, nos plugs, and a walbro fuel pump for best results is my recommendation.. Good luck....
 
Lextreme said:
Only the 3uzfe have weak rods.... but the post 98 1uzfe have stronger rods.
Click to expand...
sorry to report taht they dont - the post 98 vvti 1ufe has very pissy weak cast rods indeed
 
Yes that is correct a bottle warmer, exactly..That is optional...Oh and yes the fuel pump is necessary with a 100hp shot or more on the SC's.. A 50 nos shot no...The walbro high volume fuel pump is not a big deal and not expensive... The stock fuel pump you are using now may or may not be able to keep up with the 100 nos shot and trust me you don't want to risk it.. The final nos and fuel mix may run lean with the stock fuel pump and if it cannot keep up the proper fuel output you will run lean and blow your motor....Lean fuel mixture with nos is a no no!!!.... So again if you are going for a 100hp shot or more I would defenitely recommend the upgraded high volume fuel pump... I think they cost $50...
 
jibby good post, but if memory serves me right i believe you have the terms "wet" and "dry" systems mixed up. Dry is the one that works into your fuel system and through your fuel injectors. Wet is the one that has the extra injector that taps into your fuel line and you put that injector in your TB typically unless you go direct port.
 
Xir - Dry nos system - connects the nos directly at the throttle body. (that is what
I have installed on my sc400) No mixing of fuels before the TB..


Wet nos system - Mixes the nos and gas at the fuel lines prior to entering into the
throttle body.. That is the danger with a wet system fuel leaks
when trying to tap into and bridge the nos with the gas fuel line..


Wet system provides a cleaner mixing of fuels as it is better for larger nos shots..
 

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Here are complete pics of my 100hp dry nos system and heater core on my 1992 SC400.... You will notice I have the 15lb nos bottle mounted with two nos mounting brackets in the trunck. The heater core wrap is shown in the pics.. The nos control box is mounted in the center consule. (arming box) The nos line travels to the nos cylinoids which in mounted near the throttle body on the left side. You can see the steel braided nos line feeds directly from the nos cylinoids to the throttle body. The fitment is screwed directly into the throttle body as shown in the pics..."blue nut and steel braided nos line" It is that simple...

I did need to drill and tap a small hole in the side of the throttle body to screw in the nos hose fitment... I hope this explains the nos system.. I can take more pic's if you guys are still fuzzy on it..
 
I should also state that there is a push button mounted under the gas pedal, so when the nos is armed it will not kick in unless I am pushing the pedal to the floor "full throttle". You don't want the nos shooting out at idle....I Forgot about that little detail.. Here are more pics of the mounted button under the pedal and my 10lb nos bottles which provide a better punch then the 15lb bottles.
 
Dry system is what I have and that there is no fuel mix, "dry of fuel"... That link artical is a little misguided.. I see what you are thinking....though..
 
Ehlsupra - maybe you can post info and pic's of your wet system. I liked your ideas on nos performance....would like to hear more about it...

Thanks for the compliment Zir on the nos system, I made sure it was installed correctly and safely... Built to last...
 
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