1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

[cebby]

I was photographing everything which was eating up too much time. Marlin's dismantle and assembly instructions are SO DAMN GOOD there is really no reason to document it. You can find their instructions here:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/docs/470install/470install_2.html

OK, last night was maybe 1/4 of the way there as I found out tonight.





Barely fits in the bucket...


I'm going to use a parts cleaner on everything, that's why I bagged and packed it up.

Pretty easy dismantle. Only one casualty (OK, actually 3) - one of the alllen head detent screws would not budge. I ended up stripping out the head of it with the 6mm allen, so I hammered a 1/4" allen into it and got it out. The other two parts were 2 of the thick snap rings on the shafts - these things are almost impossible to get them off without bending them. The expletives were flying.

 

[cebby]

Hmmm.....Case #2.......deja vu....

 

[cebby]

Got the "custom" coupler back from Marlin. The flash washed it out a bit, but basically it is an expansion plug (Dorman 555-120) epoxied into the coupler.









Looks like it should solve the leaking!

 

[Toymanf]

Hey Cebby

Is there a hole drilled thru the side of the coupler?

Doesn't the stock a340f coupler have a small hole in the side of the coupler?



I ended up installing the a340f output shaft in my otherwise stock a341E. It is now ready to install in the 4runner. I have not made any other progress.



Keep up the great work!

Frank

 

[cebby]

Hi Frank -

Yes there is a hole in the coupler. It is on the transmission side of the block off plug.

Here's a pic:


For comparison, here's the coupler attached to the transfer case out of the 2000 4Runner (you can see the hole in the stocker next to that junction):

 

[Lextreme II]

Great details... keep it up.....

 

[cebby]

Wahoo! Finally got a little time this evening to start moving some of my crap down to the raceshop.

Here's my new little corner of the world:


I made up these shop lights out of some office furniture uplighting - made 2 setups like this. There are wheels underneath to roll them around.

 

[cebby]

Here it is in all its glory:


I think I'll replace the starter contacts NOW. I'd rather not have to pull the intake to do it later...


How about that new avatar...

 

[cebby]

I'm wondering if I can fit either an LS400 rad or Tundra/Sequoia rad into my 4Runner (with mods of course). Anyone with a Tundra and/or LS400 - Can you measure the radiator? (W x H x Th) Thanks! If someone has them out of the vehicles, pics would help greatly also!

 

[cebby]

A few general questions for everyone:

1. I bought an engine stand. I've never used one. Do I bolt this to the engine where the bellhousing normally bolts up? Newbie question I know...

2. Anyone who has pulled this motor, what sizes of sockets/wrenches are needed? I don't want to truck every single tool I own down to this shop (it's close by, but I'd need to lock up and set the alarm every time I run out, etc.)

3. I know I'll be splicing some wires. I want to get a few spools and was wondering what guage would be a suitable all around wire for hooking stuff up. It will most likely just be computer control stuff mostly. Anything thick, I'll get something specific to that app. For the general stuff, should I go 18 ga or 16ga?

 

[Toymanf]

16 or 14 gauge for most circuits. 18 gauge would work, but I feel you will have better results with 16 or 14 gauge.


The bell housing bolts are the correct spot for the engine stand bolts.

As far as tools, best answer is bring all your metric stuff. If you don't bring it, you will need it

Frank

 

[cebby]

Thanks for the info!!

Does anyone know what the bellhousing to engine bolt size normally is? Funny thing - when you buy engines and transmissions separately, you don't get the bolts....

 

[LO LYF]

The bolts on my standard 1uz auto bellhousing are,


M12x1.25 50 mm long (6)

M10x1.25 40 mm long (4)


Hope that helps

mark


just remembered you may need longer bolts for the engine stand. I used 4 M12x1.25x70 mm on mine as the factory bolts were to short.

 

[cebby]

Thanks for the replies!

Decided to tear into the ol' girl a bit...



Got the hood, corner markers, turn signals, grille, headlights, battery, and AFM/K&N FIPK removed.


Here's a pic of the 1UZ motor mount. Not sure how it will work with the 3VZ mounts, I guess the 3VZ mount bolts directly to the block - need the other motor out first to verify...




Now to figure out what is missing from the motor. I'm wondering what this is right in the middle with the non-grooved 4 spoke pulley. The connections look like PS pump fittings....hmmmm.

 

[cebby]

AC pump and Alt go somewhere on here - either on the left...



or on the right....



I'd bet the 2UZ (4.7's) have the accessories in the same place as the 1UZ - Hmmmm......

 

[Zuffen]

Air conditioning compressor goes above the oil filter.

Alternator under the power steering pump.

 

[cebby]

Thanks Rod! Bamachem over on Yotatech found a pic on Sideshow's site of the 1UZ by itself that is also helpful.

OK, new questions:

1. I was looking at the butchered harness that is currently on the engine (cut where it would enter the vehicle...30-40 wires or so) Anyway, it looks like I need to pull the plenum and possibly the intake to replace the wiring harness - is this true? I didn't see you I could get my hands in there otherwise.

2. Should I rebuild the starter while I have the intake off? How long do these normally last? I replaced the contacts in my 3VZE starter at about 135k miles. My "new" 1UZFE is around 50K miles I think.

 

[Zuffen]

Cebby,

Unfortunately the manifold has to come off to get the harness out.

Remove all the covers and unplug the injector tails and a couple of other plugs above the air compressor.

Unbolt the 10 manifold bolts release the T'B wiring and the vacuum lines and it will lift off. It may be easier to remove the ICV from the front of the maniflod than fight with all the hoses.

You also need to remove the water hose to the t/b.

Upper and lower manifold, injectors all lift off as one big unit.

It won't cost much to rebuild the starter and once you've done the manifold you'll know you don't want to do it in the car.

 

[cebby]

It won't cost much to rebuild the starter and once you've done the manifold you'll know you don't want to do it in the car.

Were these starters the same for all of the 1UZFE's? I'm not certain of the year of mine - I'm guessing mine is a 93 or 94.

 

[Zuffen]

As best I understand it they're all the same.

The starter looks very simillar to various "hi-torque" starters advertised and I often wonder if it's our starter being sold at a healthy mark up?