my 1uz mk3 project
- Thread starter taka21
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Yeah, our wiring write-ups need to be merged and cleaned up with pin numbers and actual connector designations. Been on our todo list for almost two years now
I actually started off by using Jake's information first but there are some differences due to the different years (Jake's is '89+ where mine and Viper's are '87 and '88 respectively).
There are two wires all of us ran from the engine bay connector (eb2?) into the interior to connect at the big yellow connector (b1?) behind the glove box. The one you mention above and then the black/orange wire (eb2?), run into interior to the big Black/Orange (add pin number) on the yellow connector.
The next longest runs after those two ended up being the extension of the alternator wires since the alternator on the 1uz is on the opposite side of where it was on the 7M.
Mike
Owner - http://1uzsupra.com
Hopefully someone answered this for you already but if not, the next easiest thing to do, which I had to do, is to run a string (or small diameter vacuum hose) around the pulleys the way you would the belt, then take that into your closest parts store and they can cross reference to find the closest fitting belt. The belt I list in my BOM is for a car without the A/C pump and running the LS manual fan pulley instead of the hydraulic pump pulley for the hydraulic fan although this second one shouldn't make a difference since I think both pulleys are the same diameter.
Yes, the stock temp gauge is a three wire gauge. Again, grounding issue. You'll have to refer to the MkIII TEWD for the colors and locations of the three wires or someone here can answer right away. I thought the same as well and was freaking out the first couple of times. I figured since the sensor body is grounded via the bridge that it wouldn't matter. It does. Congrats on getting it running!
crunch time
the car has to be driveable by saturday when it must be moved from its current location
i got the brake booster on its kinda wierd tho that pedal is hard as a rock and only moves like a half inch.
went out and had a custom fuel line made and got rid of that hardline(found that the banjo was too big)
all thats left is wiring
ok im a bit confused and im using the explanation on 1uzsupra.com.
on the fusebox side it says that the black wire in the eb2 connector is to run to the black and blue wire off the b1 connector
(which is on the other side of the car) im trying to figure out if that is the only wire that needs to be done that way or if the other two on the eb2 connector need to be run that far too
the car has to be driveable by saturday when it must be moved from its current location
i got the brake booster on its kinda wierd tho that pedal is hard as a rock and only moves like a half inch.
went out and had a custom fuel line made and got rid of that hardline(found that the banjo was too big)
all thats left is wiring
ok im a bit confused and im using the explanation on 1uzsupra.com.
on the fusebox side it says that the black wire in the eb2 connector is to run to the black and blue wire off the b1 connector
(which is on the other side of the car) im trying to figure out if that is the only wire that needs to be done that way or if the other two on the eb2 connector need to be run that far too
milisakeracing
New Member
Yeah, our wiring write-ups need to be merged and cleaned up with pin numbers and actual connector designations. Been on our todo list for almost two years now
I actually started off by using Jake's information first but there are some differences due to the different years (Jake's is '89+ where mine and Viper's are '87 and '88 respectively). There are two wires all of us ran from the engine bay connector (eb2?) into the interior to connect at the big yellow connector (b1?) behind the glove box. The one you mention above and then the black/orange wire (eb2?), run into interior to the big Black/Orange (add pin number) on the yellow connector.
The next longest runs after those two ended up being the extension of the alternator wires since the alternator on the 1uz is on the opposite side of where it was on the 7M.
Mike
Owner - http://1uzsupra.com
milisakeracing
New Member
Hopefully someone answered this for you already but if not, the next easiest thing to do, which I had to do, is to run a string (or small diameter vacuum hose) around the pulleys the way you would the belt, then take that into your closest parts store and they can cross reference to find the closest fitting belt. The belt I list in my BOM is for a car without the A/C pump and running the LS manual fan pulley instead of the hydraulic pump pulley for the hydraulic fan although this second one shouldn't make a difference since I think both pulleys are the same diameter.
milisakeracing
New Member
Yes, the stock temp gauge is a three wire gauge. Again, grounding issue. You'll have to refer to the MkIII TEWD for the colors and locations of the three wires or someone here can answer right away. I thought the same as well and was freaking out the first couple of times. I figured since the sensor body is grounded via the bridge that it wouldn't matter. It does. Congrats on getting it running!
got the girl up and running without a problem
temp gauge is acurate
now im actually overheating
lol it takes much longer than before but its now truly overheating even without the thermostat in her.
im about to go check the lines at the back of the motor and see if they are run right or not im kinda stumped
i only made it halfway home before it overheated and steam came out one of the coolant lines on the back of the motor
temp gauge is acurate
now im actually overheating
lol it takes much longer than before but its now truly overheating even without the thermostat in her.
im about to go check the lines at the back of the motor and see if they are run right or not im kinda stumped
i only made it halfway home before it overheated and steam came out one of the coolant lines on the back of the motor
Jake Breyck
New Member
I just stumbled across this thread, from google. Taka get a new thermostat and put it in the motor, 1uz will over heat with no thermostat to control flow becouse they are a double bypass system. with out the thermostat the waterpump will pull water from the engine and pump it back into the engine and not pull water at all from the radiator. water lines at the rear of the motor almost dont matter as long as they are not leaking. also make sure all of the air is out of the motor. use the nut by the thermostat to get the last bit of air out of the motor.
