Help help. Just broke motor, what to do!!!???

[cribbj]

Oh and i got another question. How had is it to change the valve seals? Where can i get a spring compressing tool if my buddy doesnt have one. I dont want a POS eather.

Valve seals are not that bad, but make sure the new ones are well seated on the guides. And you don't need a spring compressor. Have a look at this Valve Master tool from http://www.toyotool.com/. This thing makes short work of reinstalling springs, retainers and keepers.

If everything goes well, ill have the motor put back to gether by friday night. still waiting on a few rod bearings to come in. He do yall know if I have to pull the crank out change out the oil pump? Kinda need to know by friday. I havent really looked at it yet. I have all the pistons out right now. I wasnt going to change the main bearings, but if i gotta pull the crank out then i might.

The upper pan has to come off, but definitely not the crank. Be sure to use a good gasket between the oil pump and its pickup. Our member RedSupra tipped us off awhile back that the OEM gasket for the MKIV Supra, which is rubber impregnated, fits & works fine. The gasket included in the cheapie eBay gasket kit for this is cardboard.

p.s. Be sure to buy, and carefully install, a new OEM front main seal. Don't reuse the one from the old oil pump. Personally, I wouldn't trust the seals in the eBay kits for something this critical.

Here's a photo showing the underside with the upper pan off, so you can see the oil pump on the far right, and why the pan has to come off before the pump can be pulled:

 

[spdrcr771]

Thanks for the info,i ordered the OEM full rebuild gasket kit & the toyo valve too that thing looks super easy to use.

 

[stevechumo]

Are you having any performance mod besides rebuilding it?

 

[cribbj]

Thanks for the info,i ordered the OEM full rebuild gasket kit & the toyo valve too that thing looks super easy to use.

It is, and it's a lot faster than a bulky spring compressor. I'd suggest when you get it, to lube the inner "punch" a bit, as it does tend to bind in the handle, and you want it to operate smoothly, and with a full stroke, for the best effect.

Also, the head is going to want to move around while you're doing this, so think about how best to tie it down. You don't want it shifting too much on your worktable for fear of damaging the head gasket sealing surface.

 

[spdrcr771]

Are you having any performance mod besides rebuilding it?

No i wish, lex tried to talk me into cams but, im running out of money.

 

[spdrcr771]

It is, and it's a lot faster than a bulky spring compressor. I'd suggest when you get it, to lube the inner "punch" a bit, as it does tend to bind in the handle, and you want it to operate smoothly, and with a full stroke, for the best effect.

Also, the head is going to want to move around while you're doing this, so think about how best to tie it down. You don't want it shifting too much on your worktable for fear of damaging the head gasket sealing surface.

thanks for the tips, i guess ill go down to home depot & get some of those quick hand clamps, that look like they come with the work bench set from valve masters. Hey what about the valves, what can i get to support the bottom of the valve while im pushing down on it. Cause there gonna move & my head has a pretty good gap between the surface & valves.

 

[spdrcr771]

Damn it, I effin ordered the wrong rod bearings. The messed up thing is that i took all the pistons & rods down to the lexus dealership, w/the info sheets that told me/us how to know which standard bearing to use. 2,3,4,5,6,7. Well it says the # for the bearing is on the backside by the notch. BUT if the bearing # is not able to be seen, then use the # on the rod cap ADDED to the # stamped on the first lobe of the front side of the crank. Then use that # bearing. Ok so all my rods are stamped #2 except for #1 piston. It is stamped #1. So im thinking I need (7)#2 & (1)#1. Ok cool I got 7 #2 on order & now you need a #1, well i dont show a #1. So we all read the info again. Then I take the rod cap for #1 piston, pull the bearing out & there is a 3 on it. He says do you know what the #s on the crank are? NO. He says well 1+2=3 so ill order 1#3 & 1#4 w/the 7 #2's & we should be good. go home & look @ the #s on the crank & add them up & call me back. There all 2's on the crank. So cool 1+2=3, were good. I didnt realize till after disassembling 7 pistons, cleaning all the carbon off ALL the rings,piston, & installing all the new #2 bearings, that i didnt do the math right with the "7". 2+2=4. The 7 all have a 4 on them. Damn im stupid. What can i say 1st timer. My only shot is if i get lucky that a toyota dealership local has 6-7 in stock or my hole weekend is shot.

 

[spdrcr771]

No one has them in stock, will be tuesday before i get them. So now im trying to get everything cleaned up and ready to just assemble.

 

[XR8tt]

I guess these numbers are for fine clearance differences ??
Wouldn't it be easier to mic crank and measure rod, check out of round and assemble to clearance it actually is ???
I assume the factory would have done this in the first place....

 

[spdrcr771]

No one has them in stock, will be tuesday before i get them. So now im trying to get everything cleaned up and ready to just assemble.

damn lex why you tryin to make me jelious. those are nice pics. Is that the 2uz block?

 

[XR8tt]

Not with four bolt mains cap...

 

[Lextreme II]

damn lex why you tryin to make me jelious. those are nice pics. Is that the 2uz block?

Guys,

I didnt post those pictures. I think there is something wrong with the software and pictures sometimes automatically and randomly posted. You have gotten ACL. Lexus makes it alot more complicated.

 

[JBrady]

I believe those pics are a current Tundra 3UR-FE 5.7 liter alloy engine not the 2UZ-FE 4.7 liter iron previous generation. Blocks are totally different. Nothing interchanges. My guess is that the engine is considerably bigger externally than the xUZ-FE series. 94mm bore, 102mm stroke. Like to see it side by side with a 7 liter LS-7

 

[spdrcr771]

So I was pre loading my cams & didnt have a spanner wrench tool. So I went to a couple of auto parts store's & no one has it. So i had to improvise. Somtime its funny what kind of stuff you can find to work as a tool. Check out my custom spanner wrench/peg board hammer holder L O L. Total worked & cheep, hell i got 3 for $2.49.

 

[XR8tt]

Yep just remember to take the bolt OUT !!!

 

[spdrcr771]

Yep just remember to take the bolt OUT !!!

Aww man i was gonna leave it in there to make the cam stronger, for all this new torque im gonna be puttin down. Its gonna need every bolt i can find to put in it. Any place i can find a threaded hole is gettina bolt

 

[spdrcr771]

Well it just keeps gettin better, lex talked me into getting one of his torque converters too.

 

[spdrcr771]

She's finally going back together.





New oil & water pump. Just cause, I want it to be the newest I can afford to be.

 

[cribbj]

Congratulations! With all that you're doing, now would be a great time to change these things too:

1. New timing belt, idlers and tensioner
2. Thermostat
3. Radiator hoses
4. Serp belt & idler/tensioner

 

[spdrcr771]

#1 check & #4 check. For some strange reason my thermostat is a weird size, every autoparts store & even the toyota dealership cant match my thermostat to the one they show to fit my car,so i havent been able to change that since i got the car, it still works fine. Hoses are good too.