Help help. Just broke motor, what to do!!!???

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Great swap, well done. Like stevechumo said, give your 5spd trans a couple of mods to make it shift harder (also protects the clutches). It'll make a night and day difference - esp if you've already got a beefy torque converter.

Check this thread for a dirt cheap mod for the a340 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, lots of reading involved but totally worth it:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655&highlight=make+a340

I know yours isnt the a340, but surely there same principle applies...? In my supra i used 6 or 7 washers in each accumulator (21mm OD stainless) and it made the shifts quite brutal - all for a couple of bucks :D
 
Great swap, well done. Like stevechumo said, give your 5spd trans a couple of mods to make it shift harder (also protects the clutches). It'll make a night and day difference - esp if you've already got a beefy torque converter.

Check this thread for a dirt cheap mod for the a340 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, lots of reading involved but totally worth it:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655&highlight=make+a340

I know yours isnt the a340, but surely there same principle applies...? In my supra i used 6 or 7 washers in each accumulator (21mm OD stainless) and it made the shifts quite brutal - all for a couple of bucks :D

thanks for the info, i read that thread but it wasnt super clear on exactly what to use & how. Id like to see pic of a 5spd valve body to see if they look the same or simular
 

Attachments

  • HunkOfAluminum5685(sm650).jpg
    HunkOfAluminum5685(sm650).jpg
    139.5 KB · Views: 14
If this engine is an interference fit design, then an improper cambelt install is likely the culprit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
After that, perhaps we should address what went wrong with the first engine to determine if the same mechanic should be involved in any solution?

If this engine is an interference fit design, then an improper cambelt install is likely the culprit.

IM LMFAO to what YOU think a paraplegic could or couldnt do. Youve never meet me. Im blown away. This is you 2nd post on this site & you try to call out a handcap guy. Did you REALLY read the whole thread. Timing belt failure or motor assembled out of time doesnt cause just 1 #6 rod bearing to fail.
 
Last edited:
To Turboguy and spdrcr771, I edited both of your posts as we will not tolerate badmouthing back and forth on this website. Let's keep it clean and civil so we don't have to take further steps...

While we encourage individual opinions, slinging mud on this site is not allowed. We like to be friends here.

Ryan:D
 
To Turboguy and spdrcr771, I edited both of your posts as we will not tolerate badmouthing back and forth on this website. Let's keep it clean and civil so we don't have to take further steps...

While we encourage individual opinions, slinging mud on this site is not allowed. We like to be friends here.

Ryan:D

Sorry Ryan, after I read his post, I had a hard time holding back. Thats the first time Ive ever ran across anyone saying somthing like that, on this site or CL.
 
No worries spd. I do understand. It is sometimes hard to hold back after comments that just blow our minds, but the best thing, as you know, is to ignore or pay back with positive comments. :D

It's all good here.:)

Ryan
 
Last edited:
Well ever since if put this motor in, ive had a issue with it loosing coolant. Ive double,triple, & quadruple check every coolant hose/heater hose. Ive found a couple of clamps not on good, fixed them. Still no luck with fixing the problem. It doesnt leak, it doesnt smell, nothing. I take about 2 weeks of driving b4 the temp spikes & drops down cause it causes a hot air pocket in the system. So I guess its time for a leak down test on the cylinders. When I got the block the 2 rear cylinders had what looked liked some type of "stop leak" crap in the water jackets around the cylinders, which I cleaned out. So i really hope the block is not cracked or something. Ive put over 10K miles on the motor now & I would think that if it were a head gasket problem, they wouldnt last 10K. Any ideas out there guys, on doing the leak down test, & if I find which cylinder is leaking how do I know if the problem is in the head gasket or the block?
 
It may have a hairline fracture of a liner. Hard to see on inspection. Sounds like the only trouble is adding extra coolant. I would probably keep driving it and add coolant every few fillups.
 
It may have a hairline fracture of a liner. Hard to see on inspection. Sounds like the only trouble is adding extra coolant. I would probably keep driving it and add coolant every few fillups.

Yea well it easy to just keep adding water, but I would like for it to be fixed. I dont have much faith in it, to go to a track day, like that. I spent quite a bit of money putting it together, to have a motor that has a problem with it for the rest of its life.
 


Back
Top