Finally Flywheel info

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
toy4whatever:

A few reasons to use a billet steel flywheel.

First of all, you can get it made to your specifications ( as an example the bolt holes will be in the correct
place and they will be 10.1mm big. Any bigger than this and you have a fair chance of the flywheel start
working itself loose ), you can choose material, what weight you want it to be and what clutch assembly
you want to run.

Then it is the safety factor. A cast iron flywheel is fine behind a stock engine that is never revved higher
than the stock rev limit ( do not "bounce" the engine on the rev limit thou ), runs an organic clutch plate
and the clutch is never slipped.

If you rev an engine think of the forces a 30+ lbs cast iron flywheel is subjected too, if it lets go good luck.
If you run a cerametallic or sintered clutch you will slip the clutch, either because the clutch is a dog to
get of the line or you "slip" the clutch to get the boost up or you want to do burnouts etc.
When you slip a clutch you generate heat and on a flywheel the surface will heat up rapidly and small
cracks will appear. A steel flywheel will take this kind of abuse better than cast iron, the cast iron flywheel
will disintegrate a lot quicker than a billet steel. Trust me on this, I have seen what a 12 kg Volvo cast iron
flywheel will do when abused.

The enclosed picture is the flywheel I will be using. It's meant for dual 241 mm ( 9.5" ) organic plates and
a South Bend clutch/ Sachs racing pressure plate. It's made of cromo steel, weighs 5.1 kg's ( 11.5 lbs )
and yes it do cost more than $100, $650 to be excact, but I still think its cheap insurance and I will be
running organic plates !

The 2 small extra holes inside the bolt pattern towards the crank is pilot holes to fit 2 extra 10 mm locking
"pins" between the flywheel and the crank as I have had a flywheel work itself loose.
 

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OH no you have a modified flywheel. You legs are gone for sure.
At least thats what 4000gt thinks.

Whats the difference between yours and mine? Why is mine going to brake apart? Can you show me or know first hand that this has happened to a stock engine and not a race/drag vehicle with a highly modified engine?

Toy4whatever, Zuffen did not say he had a modified flywheel; he said he had a custom made flywheel. There's a big difference, my friend, and I shouldn't have to explain it to you if English is your first language.

Autronic is Norwegian, and he clearly understood Zuffen's statement, and English is probably his 2nd or 3rd language.

Look, no one here was trying to rub you the wrong way, initially; we're all just trying to convince you that elongating/enlarging flywheel holes is not a good thing to do.
 
Decided to make a phone call to LC Engineering. I talked to John in Tech support and found a few things out. The 3VZE and the 5VZE share the same flywheel with one difference. The 5VZE uses a 10" clutch where the 3VZE uses a 9.25" clutch. I am sending him my flex plate along with the spacers to make me a 38lb billet flywheel for well under $500USD. So thanks for the push on not using my existing flywheel.
 
toy4whatever:

Good, a few numbers for you then.

The bolt pattern ( PCB ) is 80.0 mm and there is 8 pcs M10 bolts so use a 10.1 mm hole in the flywheel.

Let the flywheel be 10.0 mm thick under the flywheel bolts, then you can use ARP 203-2802 flywheel bolts.
 
Thanks for the measurements and bolt choices. I do need to know what order these spacers go so I they can make the correct measurements.
 
I was not at home when I posted the first measurements, they were from memory and were
correct, it's good to see I'm not gone completely senile....

Anyway, a few more:

- Center hole ( to steer towards crankshaft ): 42.02 mm

- Starter ring placement: 14.0 mm up from the crankshaft plane and 272.02 mm diameter.

- Max diameter before the starter will hit the flywheel ( behind the starter ring ): 294.0 mm

The rest is personal preference
 

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And a picture of what I call a "universal" flywheel for the 1UZFE engine.

The weight can be adjusted from 6.5 kgs to 11 kgs and it have 3 different 241 mm
( 9.5" ) bolt patterns, BMW , European Ford V6 + Cosworth and Sachs racing.
More can be added.

You have to use the auto flex plate starter ring.

Price, probably around $350 to $400 + freight
 

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Toy,

No one was trying to "rain on your parade" but we do care for your safety plus that of your passengers and the people around you (even in the next lane).

I guess this is what a good Forum does.

I applaud your decision and you being man enough to stand up and say "I'll stand corrected"
 
I apologize for sounding like an ass. I read back through my post and realized that's probably how I was sounding to you guys. I wasn't trying to be.

I figured out which way the 2 plates and flexplate go. I will be shipping it off to John at LC Engineering on Monday.
Toy,

No one was trying to "rain on your parade" but we do care for your safety plus that of your passengers and the people around you (even in the next lane).

I guess this is what a good Forum does.

I applaud your decision and you being man enough to stand up and say "I'll stand corrected"
 
I am looking for a flywheel as well. Saftey is an issue of course but so is my budget lol. Toy4whatever you say yours is well under $500usd?? Can you give us an exact price? If anyone has one for sale as well please let me know. I'm still searching the site for more info on it as we type...
 
Got a call today from John at LC Engineering. The total price is $400 for a 38lb flywheel. They are doing a production run of the Tacoma flywheels this week so I have to put a deposit on it tomorrow to get that price. If I wait longer it will cost more to set the machine back up. I should have the flywheel within the next 2 weeks. I will post pics of final product and fitment.
 
Damn, wish I had an extra 400 around.. My build will prolly take all summer and won't need one till then, but I do know i'll need one.
 
Got a phone call from UPS this morning saying I will have a package from LC Engineering being delivered today. Sure enough 3 hours later I had 38 lbs of pure sexy delivered to my doorstep. This thing looks awesome.
DSC03591.jpg

DSC03590.jpg
 
Here is a stock 3VZE flywheel compared to the new one. You can see that the ring gear is toward the center on the 3VZE flywheel.
DSC03601.jpg

DSC03610.jpg

DSC03609.jpg
 
so what do you guys think about an off-set bore on the 5VZE flywheel. It doesn't drill new holes, they just get enlarged in one direction to fit a 3SGTE shoulder bolt. Then a little is machined off the back to get the proper depth. ring gear does not have to be changed.
 
Are you speaking of enlarging the holes, and keeping a tight fit on the shoulder bolts, or are you referring to slotting them?

If it's slotting, I wouldn't do it for the reasons already expressed many times here.

Certain things that require adjustability in their mounting can use slotted holes, but to do it with a flywheel, which is a stored energy mechanism, is asking for trouble.
 
they are enlarged in one direction since the bolt pattern in a slightly larger diameter, but the shoulder bolt fills up the entire hole with the exception of a very small sliver toward the inside. If I could find a slightly larger shoulder bolt maybe .25mm larger, it would be perfect. They are such a snug fit that many times you cannot just slip the bolt in and a blip of a sanding roll is just enough to get them in.
 
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If I were supplying modified flywheels I'd be ensuring I have as much liability insurance as was available.

If/when someone's leg or legs are removed by one of your modified flywheels you're going to need it and more.
 


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