Engine build up
- Thread starter elliotaw
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
BTW..WOT..?What is that..?
Got quite a bit on at the moment, but nothing exciting to show. I've already made a stainless steel sump which is complete and ready to be fitted, but the design I chose has been bothering me and I've decided to make another one, this time from aluminium to save some weight.
The main plate has been cut from 12mm marine grade aluminium. The body will be folded up from the 2mm sheet you can see. I will try and make the whole folded section from one piece. I worked it all out roughly in my head, drew up a sketch on autocad, then printed the autocad drawing, cut the outline and hand folded it to make sure it was as correct as it could be. Took quite a few attempts to get it right as I had our 3 month old screaming in my ear at the time which was making my brain ache a little.....
Hopefully all the hassle of folding up little paper models will save time and money in the long run as its not cheap to go scrapping a laser cut aluminium sheet each time you want to make a design change....
Elliot
The main plate has been cut from 12mm marine grade aluminium. The body will be folded up from the 2mm sheet you can see. I will try and make the whole folded section from one piece. I worked it all out roughly in my head, drew up a sketch on autocad, then printed the autocad drawing, cut the outline and hand folded it to make sure it was as correct as it could be. Took quite a few attempts to get it right as I had our 3 month old screaming in my ear at the time which was making my brain ache a little.....
Hopefully all the hassle of folding up little paper models will save time and money in the long run as its not cheap to go scrapping a laser cut aluminium sheet each time you want to make a design change....
Elliot
Squeezed in some time during work hours today to fold up the main body. It all appears to work so far. I was hoping to set up my mig for aluminium tonight and tack it up, but I think I need a new mig liner for the aluminium wire so I'll get one tomorrow. I wont be doing the final welding...really need a good TIG machine for that...but I'll do all the basic tack welds as I can take my time and get it right as I want it to be.
I've been in discussion with Ross at Motec and I have decided to go for the M48, mainly due to my concerns wanting to have full control of all injectors. The only downside as most of you probably already know is that it cannot control the ISCV, So on friday I climbed down to my local wreckers and sourced one from an Ford LTD which has a more simpler Valve with only 2 wires needed to control it. The LTD valve is nice and simple and comes as a separate unit with barbed hose connections so not much work involved in fitting it up apart from the blanking plate which I also managed to make at work today from 6mm Stainless.....
I've been advised to use new air and engine temperature sensors to save time and $$$ with calibration problems......
Elliot
I've been in discussion with Ross at Motec and I have decided to go for the M48, mainly due to my concerns wanting to have full control of all injectors. The only downside as most of you probably already know is that it cannot control the ISCV, So on friday I climbed down to my local wreckers and sourced one from an Ford LTD which has a more simpler Valve with only 2 wires needed to control it. The LTD valve is nice and simple and comes as a separate unit with barbed hose connections so not much work involved in fitting it up apart from the blanking plate which I also managed to make at work today from 6mm Stainless.....
I've been advised to use new air and engine temperature sensors to save time and $$$ with calibration problems......
Elliot
JustenGT8
New Member
Mate you won't need an idle control valve at all. My autronic gets my beast idling smooth as 1st start. It needs a tiny amount of throttle on a frosty morning to start but you lift off the throttle nice and slow and it catches on the idle rpm no probs....i'm sure this could be sorted easy as well as the car hasn't even seen a tune since the 2nd major round of upgrades. Keeps the bay just that tad neater i reckon
Justen....I've heard a few people say you can delete the ISCV without any problems, I just like the idea of it being as smooth as possible. There's not a huge amount of effort involved in using the Ford one, but I agree in that it would help keep the engine bay cleaner.
It looks like the Ford ISCV wont fit under the cover where the original valve sits which is a shame. I might try and hide it under the inlet pipework somewhere....
Elliot
It looks like the Ford ISCV wont fit under the cover where the original valve sits which is a shame. I might try and hide it under the inlet pipework somewhere....
Elliot
Lextreme II
Active Member
Elliot,
How do you clean your engine? I am doing very similar to what u r doing but it won't be all shinny.
How do you clean your engine? I am doing very similar to what u r doing but it won't be all shinny.
I use compressed air to clean up the dust and grit that gets into the valley and the places you cant reach. I work for a company that makes ink. We have a product at work that feeds rubber. It is excellent on all the black parts as the plastic actually absorbs the product and it brings 20 year old dull scratched plastic up like new with very little effort. For the polished and chromed parts I use metal polish.
Elliot
Elliot
Hey Elliot,
I installed thoes shims over the weekend. Got it running tonight and went for a drive. Not bad but I have to say with 8mm shims I thought it would shift a lot harded. It does shift quick but It'll never chirp the tyres. (on standard engine). I thought 8mm shims would almost be dash cracker changers
My box is a little different to your's (looking at your pictures) But I reackon you could almost go for a 9mm shim. Thats ofcorse if you can get it back together, dam it was hard by my self. and that valve body weighs a ton after half an hour, upside down on my back covered in tranny oil. lol
I also followed you advice on the regulator and cut a small piece of 2mm which I then squashed in a vice to make it around 1.5mm.
any ways it's a cheap fix to our slow changing box's, and some thing almost anyone can do in there own shed.
Thanks heaps for your help, ow yeah and also for fixing me up with the bits.
-cheers :fing02:
I installed thoes shims over the weekend. Got it running tonight and went for a drive. Not bad but I have to say with 8mm shims I thought it would shift a lot harded. It does shift quick but It'll never chirp the tyres. (on standard engine). I thought 8mm shims would almost be dash cracker changers
My box is a little different to your's (looking at your pictures) But I reackon you could almost go for a 9mm shim. Thats ofcorse if you can get it back together, dam it was hard by my self. and that valve body weighs a ton after half an hour, upside down on my back covered in tranny oil. lol
I also followed you advice on the regulator and cut a small piece of 2mm which I then squashed in a vice to make it around 1.5mm.
any ways it's a cheap fix to our slow changing box's, and some thing almost anyone can do in there own shed.
Thanks heaps for your help, ow yeah and also for fixing me up with the bits.
-cheers :fing02:
That's good to hear to managed to get it all back together ok. It's always going to be a harder job doing the mods with the transmission still fitted to the car. How much shorter are the gear changes now do you think in seconds ? Does the car get upto freeway speeds quicker from standstill ?
Elliot
Elliot
Well how is the shifting,faster and still smooth?
Well maybe with shims mod,might be to get a better Torqueconverter also..?Im looking at this option..good to hear feedback from someone thats done it..
BTW..WOT..?What is that..?
You can easley notice the difference at low speed and light throttle,
At full throttle the shifts are now quick and clean and I'd guess are about a second quicker.
as for getting up to speed Im not sure, I'd say thats more in the toruqe converter witch is my next mod. I've heard it's one of the best things you can do in these box's.
At full throttle the shifts are now quick and clean and I'd guess are about a second quicker.
as for getting up to speed Im not sure, I'd say thats more in the toruqe converter witch is my next mod. I've heard it's one of the best things you can do in these box's.
Ok..Thanks Rod..
Not too much to update on. I'm still working on the sump assembly, and not gotten much further with that yet as the new M48 arrived so I was too busy working on the engine wiring harness which I am now about half way through. Also took delivery of a set of magnecor leads for AU$300 which i thought was a pretty good price. Had to redrill all the plastic lead holding brackets to keep it all neat and tidy.
I knocked up a blanking plate for the Idle valve. I drilled and tapped a 3/8 BSP thread and fitted a 90 degree stainless fitting and then a hose tail. Heres a picture of it fitted, I'm going to make up some kind of cover plate to hide the cutout in the black plastic cover at the front bottom of the picture so that it looks more 'factory'.
Elliot
I knocked up a blanking plate for the Idle valve. I drilled and tapped a 3/8 BSP thread and fitted a 90 degree stainless fitting and then a hose tail. Heres a picture of it fitted, I'm going to make up some kind of cover plate to hide the cutout in the black plastic cover at the front bottom of the picture so that it looks more 'factory'.
Elliot
Similar threads
