Engine build up
- Thread starter elliotaw
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Good luck with yours; I think it's a great idea for all cars that don't get started frequently.
John
You actually didn't have to distroy the old plugs to remove the wiring terminals they have a locking tang that can be unlocked (i used a o-ring pick) as you pull the wire out, job done.
I am happywith the manufacturing quality of the cams. Cant really say about how well they work until the engine is back in the car and on the road. Yes they were an excellent fit with no mods required apart from grinding the gears to clear the lobes. This engine wil be naturally aspirated...thats why I left it 10:1. I may look into a nitrous setup for the strip when I've gotten used to the car.
Elliot
Elliot
Not much to update apart from at last I've finally finished setting up the valve clearances today. 31 of them are spot on 10 thou and 6 thou, just one of the inlets is 7 thou. I've been back to the shim guy 5 times this week..I'm sure he must be sick of the sight of me by now........
Had two cams arrive courtesy of david this week. A big thankyou to you. You;ve saved me no end of trouble. I needed them to replace the damaged centre gears on one of my own cams.
Also had some electrical connectors delivered from ch toyota...8 new injector connectors and 2 new knock sensor connectors.... I have to say I was so impressed with the design of them. The old ones I simply collapsed and crushed with some pliers until only the wires and the terminals were left. the new connectors simply plugged onto the terminals and clicked into place. Never seen anything like it...really well engineered.
Also picked up 8 315cc na supra injectors today..... from toyospares in bayswater. Cost me 100 bucks..... didnt think that was too bad a price as I've been watching prices on ebay for some time.....
My next step will be to trial my pre engine start oil pressure system. Basically...I've got a turbo oil scanvenge pump which is electrically driven. I've also got a stainless steel high pressure / temperature non return valve. I plan on piping a suction tube from the engine oil sump to the pump, then through the non return valve then into the main engine oil line just before the filter. This will allow me at a press of a switch....to pump oil around the non-started engine until pressure is reached...I will then start the engine...then stop the electric pump. The non return will stop the engines oil pump from recirculating the oil back to the sump. I will start to get this mini project underway now as I'm expecting the engine to need problem solving as far as the computer goes so may run out of lubrication. At least this way I can pre-prime the engine with oil and not have to worry about damage to any of the bearings / cam lobes etc.
Elliot
Had two cams arrive courtesy of david this week. A big thankyou to you. You;ve saved me no end of trouble. I needed them to replace the damaged centre gears on one of my own cams.
Also had some electrical connectors delivered from ch toyota...8 new injector connectors and 2 new knock sensor connectors.... I have to say I was so impressed with the design of them. The old ones I simply collapsed and crushed with some pliers until only the wires and the terminals were left. the new connectors simply plugged onto the terminals and clicked into place. Never seen anything like it...really well engineered.
Also picked up 8 315cc na supra injectors today..... from toyospares in bayswater. Cost me 100 bucks..... didnt think that was too bad a price as I've been watching prices on ebay for some time.....
My next step will be to trial my pre engine start oil pressure system. Basically...I've got a turbo oil scanvenge pump which is electrically driven. I've also got a stainless steel high pressure / temperature non return valve. I plan on piping a suction tube from the engine oil sump to the pump, then through the non return valve then into the main engine oil line just before the filter. This will allow me at a press of a switch....to pump oil around the non-started engine until pressure is reached...I will then start the engine...then stop the electric pump. The non return will stop the engines oil pump from recirculating the oil back to the sump. I will start to get this mini project underway now as I'm expecting the engine to need problem solving as far as the computer goes so may run out of lubrication. At least this way I can pre-prime the engine with oil and not have to worry about damage to any of the bearings / cam lobes etc.
Elliot
Elliot, I have a system like this on my Supra, plumbed just the way you describe, using a Mocal pump, and it works a treat, especially when the car doesn't get started for 4-6 weeks. It's a good feeling to know you're not spinning a dry crankshaft.....elliotaw said:
Good luck with yours; I think it's a great idea for all cars that don't get started frequently.
John
fugly
New Member
These new connectors, did you get them from a TOYOTA dealer, if so which one? I tryed getting new injector connectors for my 7MGTE injectors from my local TOYOTA dealer without success.elliotaw said:
You actually didn't have to distroy the old plugs to remove the wiring terminals they have a locking tang that can be unlocked (i used a o-ring pick) as you pull the wire out, job done.
Good to know this idea of pre-oiling before start up has already been done and works. It took me ages to find a manufacturer who makes a suitable rated non return valve that doesnt restrict flow... Most of the ones I found were 'poppet' type valves....which will restric flow somewhat. Eventually found a lever action one which seams to work really well with the bench testing I've done with it so far.
Fugly, I use Castle hill toyota in Sydney. The guys there seam to know their stuff and dont mind doing a bit of chasing around to get you what you want.
Elliot
Fugly, I use Castle hill toyota in Sydney. The guys there seam to know their stuff and dont mind doing a bit of chasing around to get you what you want.
Elliot
On my system, it's interesting to watch the oil pressure light as the prelube is in process - the lamp will extinguish after about 10 seconds and there's a noticeable change in the pitch of the Mocal pump, indicating that it's been able to pressurise all the oil galleys of the motor.
Are you using the Mocal pump or other?
Are you using the Mocal pump or other?
It's not a mocal pump no. Not sure what brand it is, it came out from the UK. It is sold as 'turbo oil scavenging pump'. Its rated for high temperature oil at about 40psi I think from memory. I know thats only half what the engine oil pump will put out at idle, but it's only to get the oil where it neads to be before I hit the start button. I've fitted a custom sump and the pickup pipe is about 5 times as long as the original...thats why I'm concerned. before I stripped the motor it was taking about 3 seconds to show any oil pressure at all !
I'm going to temporarily hook up the pump this week while the motor is apart to make sure it has enough grunt to get the oil up to the cams....I'm hoping I will be able to visually see the oil .... fingers crossed.
Elliot
I'm going to temporarily hook up the pump this week while the motor is apart to make sure it has enough grunt to get the oil up to the cams....I'm hoping I will be able to visually see the oil .... fingers crossed.
Elliot
Not updated my engine build progress for some time. Finally after 2 weeks of swapping measuring and changine cam shims, all the valve clearances are now spot on. With that done, I've been able to final fit the cambelt, belt tensioner along with new idler pulleys/bearings. The harmonic balancer is now torqued in place. Both distributor caps and rotors are fitted and some of the front engine covers too. Usually the air con pump sits on the left hand side of the engine (right in the pic) and there are about 93 auxilliary idler pulley that make it look rediculous. My original plan was to ditch the air con and all but one of the idlers, but the only way I can do that is to do a fair bit of fabrication work that would also have to seal in all the gaps between the front covers...I can see it could be done...but to be honest...i've kinda decided I cant be bothered. Not the attitude to take I know...but theres so much more I could be doing with my time its just not top of my list. Unfortunately the original radiator fan and pulley assembly was not reusseable so a new one has been ordered from the US... and I will have to run the other 2 idlers too (bugger).
Today I fitted up the rear crankshaft seal and housing. I then plumbed the oil system to an electric oil pump I have, and pumped filtered fresh oil around the engine to make sure all the galleries were clear and it reached each of the cam bearings. It worked a treat apart from not having the sump fitted thus oil then poured all over the garage floor.
I was not impressed with the fitting of the valve cover spark plug tube oil seals. Even with the valve cover sitting perfectly flat and using my drill press to drive the seals squarely into place, with plenty of lube, each and every one tore around its edges!!
Ayone know a sure way method to fit these undamaged ?
Heres a few in progress pics :
Today I fitted up the rear crankshaft seal and housing. I then plumbed the oil system to an electric oil pump I have, and pumped filtered fresh oil around the engine to make sure all the galleries were clear and it reached each of the cam bearings. It worked a treat apart from not having the sump fitted thus oil then poured all over the garage floor.
I was not impressed with the fitting of the valve cover spark plug tube oil seals. Even with the valve cover sitting perfectly flat and using my drill press to drive the seals squarely into place, with plenty of lube, each and every one tore around its edges!!
Ayone know a sure way method to fit these undamaged ?
Heres a few in progress pics :
The engine wiring harness has now been stripped, cleaned and re-wrapped with new black convoluted tubing and heat shrink. It didnt take too long and looks much better now. The harness has been mounted onto the engine with a few new connectors that needed replacing. I'm waiting on a few engine parts now so nothing more I can do it for the time being.
I've decided to do the transmission mechanical modifications now as I have a bit of spare time. The transmission I am using will be the original A341E. It was rolled onto its back, the sump plate and filter removed. Next I made up a cardboard template, removed all the valve body bolts and inserted them into the template so they go back into the same place. With the valvebody on the bench, the main oil line pressure can be adjusted. (see pics below). In the first picture you can see the pressure regulator setting(round part with screwdriver slot in centre of picture). To adjust the pressure, this part can be made to sit further inwards or outwards of the main valve body. I made a small quarter round piece from some scrap aluminium (arrowed red in first pic). Then I inserted it into the regulator end. (arrowed red in 2nd pic). This should raise the oil line pressure throughout the whole transmission.
If you look at the two pictures, you can clearly see that the regulator is now sitting further into the valve body.
The pressure regulator has 2 positions on it as standard. My one was set to the higher of the two. I could have rotated the regulator so it sat on the next highest point but it wouldnt have been locked in place and I was worried it might vibrate around and then fall into the lower of its adjustments. I measured the amount of movement between the two original positions and found it to be around 1.5mm. The small insert I made was from 1.5mm thick material to take the pressure to the next step higher.
I need to make some shims at work tomorrow to adjust the accumulator spring tensions. This mod will make the gearchanges much quicker and harsher. Pics to follow ..........
Elliot
I've decided to do the transmission mechanical modifications now as I have a bit of spare time. The transmission I am using will be the original A341E. It was rolled onto its back, the sump plate and filter removed. Next I made up a cardboard template, removed all the valve body bolts and inserted them into the template so they go back into the same place. With the valvebody on the bench, the main oil line pressure can be adjusted. (see pics below). In the first picture you can see the pressure regulator setting(round part with screwdriver slot in centre of picture). To adjust the pressure, this part can be made to sit further inwards or outwards of the main valve body. I made a small quarter round piece from some scrap aluminium (arrowed red in first pic). Then I inserted it into the regulator end. (arrowed red in 2nd pic). This should raise the oil line pressure throughout the whole transmission.
If you look at the two pictures, you can clearly see that the regulator is now sitting further into the valve body.
The pressure regulator has 2 positions on it as standard. My one was set to the higher of the two. I could have rotated the regulator so it sat on the next highest point but it wouldnt have been locked in place and I was worried it might vibrate around and then fall into the lower of its adjustments. I measured the amount of movement between the two original positions and found it to be around 1.5mm. The small insert I made was from 1.5mm thick material to take the pressure to the next step higher.
I need to make some shims at work tomorrow to adjust the accumulator spring tensions. This mod will make the gearchanges much quicker and harsher. Pics to follow ..........
Elliot
The small quarter round shim for the pressure regulator should stay in place as its under spring tension from the regulator. I was making the accumulator shims to be 21 x 7. The topic I found on it on the net explains that they used a 6mm shim. they suggested that an 8mm thickness could make the car a little too aggressive, so I figured I'd go middle of the road at 7mm.
If theres a show of hands, I can make up a few sets.
Elliot
If theres a show of hands, I can make up a few sets.
Elliot
Heres a bit of a pictorial for those who havent seen inside a transmission before.
First pic shows the oil pan which must be removed first. if you're doing this with the transmission fitted to the car, then you should drain the oil through the drain plug first. Undo all the bolts around the perimiter with 10mm socket.
2nd pic : With the pan removed, heres what the internals look like. The oil filter is next to be removed. Undo the 3 bolts that hold it on with a 10mm socket.
3rd pic : heres a close up of the 4 solenoids. Disconnect each of the electrical connector plugs.
4th pic : Heres the kickdown cable connection. The cable must now be disconnected.
5th pic : Rotate the quarter round shaped pulley by hand, pull the cable towards you and then slide the crimped connector sideways and outwards.
6th pic : cable disconnected.
First pic shows the oil pan which must be removed first. if you're doing this with the transmission fitted to the car, then you should drain the oil through the drain plug first. Undo all the bolts around the perimiter with 10mm socket.
2nd pic : With the pan removed, heres what the internals look like. The oil filter is next to be removed. Undo the 3 bolts that hold it on with a 10mm socket.
3rd pic : heres a close up of the 4 solenoids. Disconnect each of the electrical connector plugs.
4th pic : Heres the kickdown cable connection. The cable must now be disconnected.
5th pic : Rotate the quarter round shaped pulley by hand, pull the cable towards you and then slide the crimped connector sideways and outwards.
6th pic : cable disconnected.
Next, undo all the bolts that secure the main valve body to the transmission. There are quite a few bolts and you should make a note of where each one comes from as they are all different lengths and should go back in the same position. I made a simple cardboard template and poked the bolts through. When you remove the valve body, beware that there are some parts that may fall out. This first pic shows the part which will fall out. Its a ball bearing, plastic holder and spring. Lower the valve body slowly and you may not drop it on the floor and have to spend the rest of the day searching for it. beware also that the accumulators dont fall.....
Pic 2 : Now, we are going to add shims under these two accumulators on the left. This pic was taken with the new shims fitted. the accumulators will be sitting lower than this. Simply pull them out. Remove them only one at a time and dont get their parts mixed up. One has one spring and the other has 2 springs.
Pic 3 : Heres one of the accumulators along with its spring. The middle part is our new shim that will raise the tension on the accumulator. Fit both shims into the accumulators followed by the spring.
Pic 4 : Have a great mate hold both the accumulators in position with one hand, and the ball and spring assembly with the other while you carefully put the valve body back onto the transmission. Make sure that the selector gear is positioned as shown or the selector will not work !!!
Tighten all the bolts back into their original positions. I think about 17Nm is about right. Refit the electrical connections to the solenoids and then fit a new filter. My filter came with a cork pan gasket, but if you dont have anew one use a suitable silicon sealant when fitting the pan.
Make sure the pan is nice and clean. Clean the 4 magnets. If they were covered in more than just fine metal filings, then it might be worth having the transmission looked at more professionally. Also clean the mating face on the transmission and fit all the bolts back in place. Tighten them sequentially. Refill the transmission to the required level on the dipstick. Start the engine, allow to reach running temperature. Move the gear selector through all gears once or twice then recheck and refill the oil.
Elliot
Pic 2 : Now, we are going to add shims under these two accumulators on the left. This pic was taken with the new shims fitted. the accumulators will be sitting lower than this. Simply pull them out. Remove them only one at a time and dont get their parts mixed up. One has one spring and the other has 2 springs.
Pic 3 : Heres one of the accumulators along with its spring. The middle part is our new shim that will raise the tension on the accumulator. Fit both shims into the accumulators followed by the spring.
Pic 4 : Have a great mate hold both the accumulators in position with one hand, and the ball and spring assembly with the other while you carefully put the valve body back onto the transmission. Make sure that the selector gear is positioned as shown or the selector will not work !!!
Tighten all the bolts back into their original positions. I think about 17Nm is about right. Refit the electrical connections to the solenoids and then fit a new filter. My filter came with a cork pan gasket, but if you dont have anew one use a suitable silicon sealant when fitting the pan.
Make sure the pan is nice and clean. Clean the 4 magnets. If they were covered in more than just fine metal filings, then it might be worth having the transmission looked at more professionally. Also clean the mating face on the transmission and fit all the bolts back in place. Tighten them sequentially. Refill the transmission to the required level on the dipstick. Start the engine, allow to reach running temperature. Move the gear selector through all gears once or twice then recheck and refill the oil.
Elliot
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