Standalone ECU Adaptronic ECU

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I am getting ready to purchase a adaptronic for my Boosted SC400 as well. I hope I can locate a dyno in my area that can tune it.
 
Ive been doing a lot of research on the adaptronic. I am planning on running it stand alone. The only thing that i'm really not sure of is the gauges, will the adaptronic control all in dash gauges. If not what is the best way to go.
 
No ECU will control all your guages.

THe ECU can give you an RPM output but everything else is run from the appropriate sensor.

Temp & oil form your usual sensors (the Toyota ECU did it this way) and your speedo from the transmission.
 
best thing to do isget atuner to download theadaptronic software and get him to load it up and learn it

i grewup using autronic so i think their software rocks

i wiredup an adaptronic afew months ago and i had probs understandin the software

so beware to pay more for them to learn it as i personally think some aftermarket ecus have softwarethat is not user friendly

anyway the more u use it the more u learn
 
Fan soft start

cribbj build a pwm controller for your fan so that the speed can be adjusted. You can also make a soft start using a capacitor.
Electric motors require 3-4x the rated constant power useage when they are stalled.

the linked ones look ok also.

Toysrme - how do you wire the capacitor for soft start - parallel across the two wires to take the load? And what size would you need - fairly hefty I imagine?

My ecu (EMS 8860) handles the pwm for the fan etc but i'm interested in reducing the starting load as it's the strongest Spal I could find (that was waterproof for regular road use) and pulls 22A continuous.
 
Edz, can't answer the question you posed to Toys, but I had the same problem, not only with the fans, but with the fuel pump. I can get a logic level PWM output out of the ECU, but it's too weak to power anything.

A great way to "amplify" this signal is to use a 20 to 50 amp solid state relay, (SSR) like those from Magnecraft Crouzet, or your best local supplier. These SSR's switch so fast, they're more than suitable for the application.

Trigger the SSR with the logic level signal out of the EMS, then power the fans or fuel pump from the SSR.

Just be sure to pay attention to the wiring diagram for the SSR when you buy it, as your EMS output may be either current source, or current sink, and you have to buy the compatible SSR for that.

I've had this setup working well for the fuel pump in my Supra for the last 3-4 years.
 

Attachments

  • temp3 079.jpg
    temp3 079.jpg
    44.7 KB · Views: 411
  • btruck 020.jpg
    btruck 020.jpg
    117.8 KB · Views: 409
ecu controlling fans and fuel pump

Edz, can't answer the question you posed to Toys, but I had the same problem, not only with the fans, but with the fuel pump. I can get a logic level PWM output out of the ECU, but it's too weak to power anything.

A great way to "amplify" this signal is to use a 20 to 50 amp solid state relay, (SSR) like those from Magnecraft Crouzet, or your best local supplier. These SSR's switch so fast, they're more than suitable for the application.

Trigger the SSR with the logic level signal out of the EMS, then power the fans or fuel pump from the SSR.

Just be sure to pay attention to the wiring diagram for the SSR when you buy it, as your EMS output may be either current source, or current sink, and you have to buy the compatible SSR for that.

I've had this setup working well for the fuel pump in my Supra for the last 3-4 years.

My ecu has 8 outputs (including 4pwm) and they are all earths (current sink to use youtr words?) with maximum current of 1 amp each - sufficient to drive a relay (mechanical or electronic) so this should be ok. I've had a lookat those ssr's, they have a lovely low operating current.
 
Use a MOSFET on the PWM output to give you higher drive current. They work on the ground side of the load (load is connect to +12V).
 
I'm pretty sure it wouldn't care what size the injectors are, it will just hold them open for the prescribed millisecond's in the map load point.

If the injectors are too big the low down idle and tuning will be harder whatever the ecu.

8 x 850cc injectors is some serious fuel you wicked boy.
 
I too, plan on using an adaptronic for my 4.7 project. What is everyone doing as far as wideband?

I have come close to purchasing a dual solution many times but still am not sure. Will I be ok with a single sensor at my 1st Y-pipe? Or should I just buy 2 and run one per bank?
 
I am running the Innovative wide band, very simple plug and play set up is available for quite a few different wide band options with the adaptronic 420c.

There is only 1 input on the 420c for a wide band. I have swapped my wide band from side to side to compare and there was no difference in tune from one bank to the other.

I have street tuned my ecu on slow learn (converge) for the past month and the performance is noticeably better along with fuel economy.

I'm in the process of setting up the launch control and traction control features from the 420c on my cobra. I particularly want to get the traction control sorted before I upgrade the supercharger. It will be adjustable by means of a pot on the dash for % slip.

The Adaptronic super ecu is another story and is due out very shortly more features and control than you can poke a stick at, go to the adaptronic forum website and search for super ecu.
 
I use a Techedge 2J0 with my 420c with the sensor at the y-pipe. It's a fairly cheap wideband because it doesn't have a display so it's really designed to be used as an input to something like the Adaptronic.
 
You just set the multiple fuel air ratios you want to run at a particular rpm and map in the tuning tab grid. Set up you learning mode then you just go for a drive. The more hills the easier it is to get to all the load points. Probably not as easy as on a dyno but a lot cheaper.

You can save data logs to your laptop to check the air fuel ratio instead of trying to look at the screen while your driving, highly recommended.

You can download the free "WARI" software from their website and they also have base maps for the 1uz in various forms. The base map from their website started and ran my engine no problems. The only issue I had was the ISC wires were slightly different for some reason on my engine.
 


Back
Top