Standalone ECU Adaptronic ECU

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
No problem, I figured as much as I've gotten from this community, it was about time I contributed.:biggthumpup:

I still have to add the IAT plug and the GM MAP sensor stuff. I also think I have a pretty good approximation of the GM IAT for the Air temp calibration. If anyone can think of other things to add please let me know.
 
Yeah Eric,

Finally you are doing something good for this community. LOL..JK.. thanks a lot. I am sure there will be thousands of people will say the same thing.
 
Please help me understand. I have my name down 4 1 of these, from my reading, i understand this ecu doesn't use the factory MAF sensor instead requires the use of a MAP sensor True?(and from my limited and ever decreasing understanding is better for tuning anyway). What type (MSD 3bar?)and Where does the MAP sensor go? (install notes) and the wide band O² lambda meter (is that right) What and where? (Stand alone ECU wiring, no factory assistance)
 
....from my reading, i understand this ecu doesn't use the factory MAF sensor instead requires the use of a MAP sensor True
Mostly Correct, It is possible to set it up to use the TPS signal as load , but the most common setup is MAP. TPS is usually used in multi throttle body applications.
What type (MSD 3bar?)and Where does the MAP sensor go?
Pretty much any type or brand MAP sensor from 1 to 4 Bar. This should be connected to the intake plenum directly or or by vacumn line.
....and the wide band O² lambda meter (is that right) What and where? (Stand alone ECU wiring, no factory assistance)
Sorry hadn't covered that yet. Any wideband that has a programable analog output can be connected. In addition, a few widebands can be directly connected via the DE9 serial connector. Ones commonly used include LC-1, Techedge, and M&W. I am using an FJO. I gotta make sure to include that in the write up.
 
Thanx elhsupra, big help. info on wideband in write up would be great. can i still use the factory O² sensor or does that need changing to?
 
Eric,

Are you going to have a LS400, SC400 and GS400 plug made (Plug and Play)? If you do, I will be the first inline for the LS400 and SC400.
 
Thanx elhsupra, big help. info on wideband in write up would be great. can i still use the factory O² sensor or does that need changing to?

You can run the standard narrowband O2 sensors and it'll run in closed loop when cruising just as the standard ECU. You don't *need* a wideband but if you have one you can run in closed loop over a wider range or enable adaptive tuning so it's constantly learning and fine tuning the fuel map.
 
Eric,
Are you going to have a LS400, SC400 and GS400 plug made (Plug and Play)? If you do, I will be the first inline for the LS400 and SC400.
Had not planned on it.
Sorry I've been a little busy lately. Ran into a new problem. Every time the electric rad fan kicks on at idle, motor goes lean from voltage drop. So I have been playing around with the Primary dead time correction to fix it. Think I almost got it.
 
That guy seems to know his stuff. I've got his fan controller at home and have been meaning to get it installed on my Supra, which has a big 16" SPAL fan that bangs on & off way too often and drives my AEM and injectors crazy. It draws around 60 amps momentarily when starting, before settling down to around 22 amps full load

I'm also very intrigued with his electric water pump controller, and the idea of running one of those with either a Davies Craig, Meziere or possibly an EMP Stewart pump, and possibly not needing to run a thermostat anymore.

This could have all kinds of benefits for people running FI'd motors, particularly when you shut the motor down, and you can still circulate coolant, and not have to worry about the top end getting overheated and popping a head gasket. This isn't as much an issue with an aluminum block and aluminum head motor as it is with a cast iron block, aluminum head motor. Anyone remember the early Chevy Vega and all the overheating problems it had, or the MKIII Supra and its BHG problems?
 
Run a dedicated feed from the battery for the fans and the problem should go away.
 
Two things,

Is it possible to connect to both NB o2 sensors at the same time to the one input?

I will also be running a 16" fan.
Would it be possible to control the fan from the Adaptronic ECU outputs?
One output switches on at say 95c and one output off at say 80c through a change over relay.
 
Run a dedicated feed from the battery for the fans and the problem should go away.

Rod, my fan setup has 8 gauge (about a 4mm2 conductor) wiring from the battery, fused at 40 amps, then going through a 75 amp Bosch relay to start the fan. The ECU still sees momentary voltage dips to 10.5 volts when the fan starts.

I don't know if the SPAL fans are more power hogs than others, but this puppy really likes the amps. Of course it does move some air too....
 
I run two Ford fans on my POS and I don't have any problems.

My turn indicators move the voltage gauge by 4 volts! Has been like that for 13 years and nothing will fix it.

You could try running a small gell battery to feed the ECU with a diode pack to stop the current going back into the main battery but at the same time ensuring the gell battery is always being charged.
 
As the voltage drops the injectors take longer to open, at idle with 1.5-1.7mS pulse widths its very noticable. Setup the battery compensation in the ECU and you wont even notice the fans turning on, other than the initial hit on the alternator loading the engine - but then on most reasonable ECUs can add a couple IAC counts to counter act the extra load.
 

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cribbj build a pwm controller for your fan so that the speed can be adjusted. You can also make a soft start using a capacitor.
Electric motors require 3-4x the rated constant power useage when they are stalled.

the linked ones look ok also.
 
Sorry I've been gone for so long, had a funeral to manage.
Have an update on the setup for ISC. The four ISC wires can be connected to any of the four aux outputs, but if using the "idle stepper-pulse" the order they should be setup in is:
ISC 1 (Green) - pulse 3
ISC 2 (Yellow/red) - pulse 1
ISC 3 (Green/yellow) - pulse 2
ISC 4 (Bluw/white) - pulse 4
The wire colors listed above match to the 92 LS400 and may be the same for all 1st gen 1UZFE's, but I cannot confirm.
In the image below I wired my ISC wires 1, 2, 3, and 4 to aux outputs 5, 6, 7, and 8 respectivley.
iscsetupax4.jpg

You can also setup the ISC using the "idle stepper-hold", however I am not sure of the sequence with this setup.
 


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