6 speed Getrag swap into a supercharged 97 SC400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Local gues doing traga events.

Basically I am of the opinion unless you go carbon you have to live with a crappy clutch if you want high HP (over 500)
 
Well, I am already committed so I guess I to will have to deal with a PITA clutch for now. If it gets to bad I will rip it out and do something one off. We will see soon.
 
yeah same as me, done the hydraulic release bearing and flywheel setup for this clutch. I thought I got the most forgiving clutch out there in the range, ceramic metallic. Oh well will see what happens when I stiffen up the rear subframe.
 
I am contacting QM to see if there might be any other options for clutch materials. I know the people selling these clutch kits say no but I need to hear it from QM's tech support before I write it off. Its not like I will be pushing the HP to slip one of these clutches if made from organic materials. Even stage II of my project wont bring those type of HP numbers, I wish it would but reality is not there.
 
I say try it as is first and see how it is on your application. Its not identical in every way to mine, maybe it will be ok. QM dont sell other matrials, but that doesnt stop you from going to anywhere else to get other materials applied to it...
 
As Andrew said, give it a try first, then if you don't like it, I think South Bend could probably reline it for you with Kevlar.

As an aside, I just read in this month's R&T that the ZR1 Corvette will come with a twin disc clutch to reduce pedal effort instead of a big single. The old big single was 290mm, while the twins will still be 260mm. That should be interesting to hear/read about the driving impressions... No mention what the friction material is on the new clutch.
 
Just a suggestion,
What do QM recommend as the flywheel material, cast iron, mild steel or hardened and tempered alloy steel ?
The friction plate material is only one half of the story.

Coefficient of friction would be different with the various flywheel materials.
 
Good point Erol, but this is one of those clutches that comes with an integral light weight flywheel. So the whole thing, including the flywheel, is provided by QM as a matched setup.

The whole assembly bolts to & through the OEM flexplate, so there's no worries about the ring gear not matching up to the starter.

Still, it would be interesting to see if QM would offer different materials and weights for the flywheels in this setup to make it more street friendly.

Also, this setup is an 8.5" clutch, and again, it would be interesting to know if they'd consider doing this as a single disc 10.4" clutch. I think there's enough room with the UZ flexplate and the Getrag?
 
Scott, I have spoken to QM. I believe they actually do make a Carbon on Carbon clutch for the 1UZ/V160 set up. It is on a special order basis, and it is quite expensive. Contact them or Chris Mantes for more information. Obviously this is a much more streetable clutch, and it will "slip" so you can shift smoothly, especially at take off. It is also rebuildable, so you can use it for quite sometime before having to replace it, but the dollars are high. I do believe it is less than a Tilton, though. I believe Tilton does not even make one for our application. Another reason why I went with the BL built auto for my car. Sorry for the drift "Off-Topic"..

Would be nice if they can recoat the surfaces, but probably will be some $$$ for that as well, if they can or will do it...

Will be watching your progress updates to see how this goes...

Ryan
 
Ryan, what do you mean Tilton dont make one for "our car"? Of course they do! Its just the spline count to fit over the input shaft thats important and thats the V160/161 spline.

I think QM sell the carbon clutch for around USD4000

FYI the QM and Tilton clutch assemblies are interchangable... plates... covers... flywheels (according to Tilton). I can say for certainty that the bolt pattern for the cover is the same as I had both on my flywheel.
 
Three Emails to QM's tech department and not a peep from them. I guess they have more important things to do than deal with some guy in the middle of KS trying to put a 6 speed manual into a lexus SC400. I will keep on them.
 
OK, Today I made some big progress.
First I gutted the interior, I'm upgrading it anyway so it had to come out.
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How to keep all the bolts straight!biggrin.gif
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Now the great part! I did a lot of measuring and it apears the shifter will come up in the right spot!woohoo.gif

Not for the cutting of the tunnel. This is a plesant surprisebiggrin.gif
The first thing that has to go is the E-brake bracket, No problem, the tunnel will replace it. Here is the said bracket, the one with the two large nuts on it.
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Here is the replacment part on the new tunnel.
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Here it is on the inside, Note all the spot welds!
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Get a drill with a 5/16" bit and drill all the spot welds out as shown here. Once they are all drilled get under the car with a hammer and chisel or a air chisel and knock the bracket out.
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Next you need to cut the hole. There is already a line stamped in the tunnel, just cut on that line and it will look like this.
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I had to cut one side of the supra tunnel off, it was the e-brake for right hand drive, they make it fit both.Next the Supra tunnel come up from the bottom. I just sat it in for pictures, I will be riviting/welding/sealing it in soon but for now here it is. Its like its made for it.
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Look how it replaces the bolt holes up fron for the airbag modual mount and harness mount holes right to the stock location, and those ebrake holes I removed? Right back where they started. Sweet!
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keep it up scott, this stuff is awsome!!

question about the throw out bearing (srry i just pulled this thread up today lol). I have a slight concern regarding the three screws that hold down the throw out bearing. Are those screws going to be able to hold down the bearing as it is being used? I would've made another, slightly larger spacer that would go on top. That way the spacer can hold down the entire throwout unit from all the way around rather than the edges of three screws. Just a thought. Props on all the machine work you've done so far! Keep up the good work!
 
keep it up scott, this stuff is awsome!!

question about the throw out bearing (srry i just pulled this thread up today lol). I have a slight concern regarding the three screws that hold down the throw out bearing. Are those screws going to be able to hold down the bearing as it is being used? I would've made another, slightly larger spacer that would go on top. That way the spacer can hold down the entire throwout unit from all the way around rather than the edges of three screws. Just a thought. Props on all the machine work you've done so far! Keep up the good work!

Thanks for your input.
The screws just retain it when it is relaxed. When the throwout bearing extends into the clutch fingers it presses against the transmission. The rotational load is carried by the 3/4" stainless post I made. All the screws do is keep the bearing tight against the transmission when it is released. There is literally no force against the screws
 


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