scotturnot
Member
Drilled and Tapped with M8 threads plate bolts on.
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6 speed Getrag swap into a supercharged 97 SC400
- Thread starter scotturnot
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
scotturnot
Member
Bolted on the engine.
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scotturnot
Member
Next problem, The Clutch surface plate wont bolt flush to the flywheel.
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scotturnot
Member
Flex plate recess as compared to the clutch mount plate.
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scotturnot
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here is the caliper set at the same width on the flywheel.
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scotturnot
Member
It needs a spacer between the two to allow it to bolt up firm.
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scotturnot
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Just the ticket, Behind the Flex plate is the perfect spacer! You just need to get two! Lucky day, I just happen to have a extra! This part will work perfect. The only thing needed here will be this extra ring and longer bolts.
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scotturnot
Member
Clutch Bolted on.
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scotturnot
Member
Next hurdle is the top of the transmision. It looks like the Starter gear will hit the trannys bell housing when it comes out. I am going to have to clearance it and build a cover plate. I will keep you posted.
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Lextreme II
Active Member
Scott,
Why so much mod to the plate? I remember Cowboy Bebop stated that they will be 100% bolt on. So he never tested in a SC400?
Why so much mod to the plate? I remember Cowboy Bebop stated that they will be 100% bolt on. So he never tested in a SC400?
scotturnot
Member
Tranny hung in place, sorta!
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scotturnot
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Here is the Supra TT six speed Trans tunnel top I plan to install.
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scotturnot
Member
This should allow me to get a good seal over the tranny and still clear the Tripod shifter mount. Fingers crossed!
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scotturnot
Member
The tunnel is a problem if you want correct drive line alignment. Here are a couple pictures of "xirforever" tunnel when doing his swap (I think his project is on temp hold at the moment). I stole these from him, I hope he doesnt mind. I bought the supra tunnel to seal this up. I will have more details once I start chopping up my trans tunnel. It sure apears the tunnel wont allow the tripod shifter to fit, I think the supra tunnel is the only way to do it right. I know Supra guys going from auto to 6 speed have to install the tunnel if they want to do it right.
scotturnot
Member
Progress has been slow, I hope to get some work done between now and the end of the year. I have some time off and when X-mas gets done I am in the shop.
For now I have been buying more stuff to complete the build. I am really focusing on the interior, It will be different and out of the box.
I got a second wide band to monitor my left bank of cylinders.
I also bought a Stillway shifter. I am not sure if I will use it or not. It actually turns into a inline shifter with a pull. Then it can go right back to normal operation. The thing that bums me is I dont think it will allow me to use the Momo shift knob I bought.
Here is what the say about it.
"This Japanese Stillway sequential shifter adaptor kit is for your factory Getrag 6 speed transmission. This modification to the factory shifter allows you to lock out the traditional shifting scheme and go sequential. Intended mainly for drag racers you can then do the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts by simply pulling up or down on the shifter!!! This means NO more missed shifts, ever!!! Shifting is available only in upshift mode, but with a simple flick of the switch you can return to the factory shifting pattern. This part does NOT require the transmission to be dropped and is installed very similar to a short-shifter. The kit contains a special shifter, shifter slider/ring assembly and hardware to attach and utilizes the existing factory main shifter."
Otherwise, I have got bought all the factory TT boots new, 3 lower boots total.
I am getting ready to gut my interior to prepare for new parts plus tunnel modification.
For now I have been buying more stuff to complete the build. I am really focusing on the interior, It will be different and out of the box.
I got a second wide band to monitor my left bank of cylinders.
I also bought a Stillway shifter. I am not sure if I will use it or not. It actually turns into a inline shifter with a pull. Then it can go right back to normal operation. The thing that bums me is I dont think it will allow me to use the Momo shift knob I bought.
Here is what the say about it.
"This Japanese Stillway sequential shifter adaptor kit is for your factory Getrag 6 speed transmission. This modification to the factory shifter allows you to lock out the traditional shifting scheme and go sequential. Intended mainly for drag racers you can then do the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts by simply pulling up or down on the shifter!!! This means NO more missed shifts, ever!!! Shifting is available only in upshift mode, but with a simple flick of the switch you can return to the factory shifting pattern. This part does NOT require the transmission to be dropped and is installed very similar to a short-shifter. The kit contains a special shifter, shifter slider/ring assembly and hardware to attach and utilizes the existing factory main shifter."
Otherwise, I have got bought all the factory TT boots new, 3 lower boots total.
I am getting ready to gut my interior to prepare for new parts plus tunnel modification.
scotturnot
Member
Got back in the shop today, yippy! Shop time has been really hard to come by lately.
Back to tha actual fit up of the transmission. Next item on the biuld is the throw out bearing, Once you get to studying it you realize there is going to be some fabrication. The clutch kit includes a hydraulic quarter master throwbearing. The bigest hurdle with this is proper shimming. I will cover that here in a bit.
On the transmission there is a sleeve that the stock throw out bearing sets on, See it here. This thing has to go since it wont allow the new bearing to fit.
When you try to put the hydraulic bearing on it wont set down on the trans face.
Back to tha actual fit up of the transmission. Next item on the biuld is the throw out bearing, Once you get to studying it you realize there is going to be some fabrication. The clutch kit includes a hydraulic quarter master throwbearing. The bigest hurdle with this is proper shimming. I will cover that here in a bit.
On the transmission there is a sleeve that the stock throw out bearing sets on, See it here. This thing has to go since it wont allow the new bearing to fit.
When you try to put the hydraulic bearing on it wont set down on the trans face.
scotturnot
Member
My solution is back to my lathe and mill. I machined a new hub face that will do a couple things.
One it is thicker and will take up some of the spare room (remeber i said shimming is important)
Second thing its does is center the bearing. I machined a hub on it that is a slip fit to the back of the throwout bearing. This keeps the bearing centered. I have heard these clutch set ups are noisy and havea theory that the loos throw out bearing could contribute to that, dont know if it does but hey, it's worth a try.
The third thing it does is gives the throwout bearing a nice large working surface to keep it square.
One it is thicker and will take up some of the spare room (remeber i said shimming is important)
Second thing its does is center the bearing. I machined a hub on it that is a slip fit to the back of the throwout bearing. This keeps the bearing centered. I have heard these clutch set ups are noisy and havea theory that the loos throw out bearing could contribute to that, dont know if it does but hey, it's worth a try.
The third thing it does is gives the throwout bearing a nice large working surface to keep it square.
scotturnot
Member
Next you need to keep the bearing from rotating, I came up with a nice system.
Here is a pic of the back side of the bearing, see the slot in it?
This time a grabbed a chunk of stainless steel, I dont want rust but it need to be strong. I decided to capitalize on the stock throwout bearing pivot mount holes and back to the Lathe and Mill. Here is what I made. see the stock arm pivot mount just for referance.
The 3/4" pin on it fits the throwout bearing slot.
Here it is bolted on.
And finally the throwout bearing on it.
Here is a pic of the back side of the bearing, see the slot in it?
This time a grabbed a chunk of stainless steel, I dont want rust but it need to be strong. I decided to capitalize on the stock throwout bearing pivot mount holes and back to the Lathe and Mill. Here is what I made. see the stock arm pivot mount just for referance.
The 3/4" pin on it fits the throwout bearing slot.
Here it is bolted on.
And finally the throwout bearing on it.
scotturnot
Member
Now for the shimming, The instruction say you need a .100-.125 gap between the clutch fingers and throwout bearing. You will need to pull and install the tranny several time tyo get there. The bearing comes with ashim pack that allows you to get it right.
Now if you can see the gap I am withing .025" of my target.
More to come
Now if you can see the gap I am withing .025" of my target.
More to come
