1UZFE runs great without AFM

[extractors]

Thanks for the heads up Jim.
Probably won't bother then if it's going to be hard to get one.

Will be spending some time over Easter on the car just to fine tune a few things. I'll take some shots of the engine conversion and post up.

 

[sideshow]

there might be cheap Toyota scanners on ebay for 200 or 300 bucks
but its hard to know if they will work
mine is hit n miss on early toyotas

 

[gloverman]

I have one spare semi circle diagnostic port at the moment and I won't be parting with it sorry. I make up a plug so I can use my diagnostic port on all the vehicles I wire. If the customers supply a port I wire it in for them but most don't. Each time I head to the dismantlers I have my side cutters incase I find a car with another.

 

[sideshow]

so since they are hard to find
me charging 50 bucks for them
is reasonable hehe
I might have to see if I can find them in China

 

[extractors]

Well the car is running quite well now so will just leave that for another day if needed.

Spent a few hours yesterday on the car. New cooler thermostat, car sits under 80 deg C now, highway or town. Engine bay is noticeably cooler when liftin bonnet after a drive. Also fit a Radiator shroud for the therm fan which helped to pull heat out at idle.

Checked afm wiring, and all seemed ok.

Re set throttle plate, and TPS. Car doesn't have original throttle body, TPS and I know the throttle stop has been altered before.

Set TPS so it went open circuit just as the throttle was cracked. Steady idle, 650 rpm at idle when operating temp.

The only thing that seemed odd was the VTA was reading .77 volts closed throttle and 4.06 WOT. Soarer was around 3.8 WOT. Does the car relearn for each TPS, just wondering how this would effect the look up maps in the factory ecu. TPS is actually of a soarer and isn't the original. Seems odd that there would be that much difference between TPS settings from the same engine.

I will take photos of the engine when the suns out of engine tomorrow.

 

[Zuffen]

80 degrees is very cool to run a modern engine.

My 1UZ runs around 90-95 and is quite happy there and doesn't go above it in traffic, long hills or 4x4íng.

I use Falcon AU twin electric fans and they are just brilliant. Ford had to be able to get at one thing right!

Of interest my LS3 factory ECU turns on the fans at 105 and the second fan at 110!

 

[extractors]

'Modern' engines need to run hotter than years gone by ?

i bet your ls3 runs around 110 degrees oil temp too ? Pretty std for HSV. I have my L98 running around 78 deg c at cruise and 80-85 around town.

Attempts to continue to meet stringent CAFE requirements with no care for performance or longevity mean very little to me.

 

[Zuffen]

I was out in my Rover yesterday and the oil temp sits just below 100degrees when the coolant is showing 100degrees.

I have dedicated temp gauges for coolant and oil.

I did run an oil cooler on the car when it was supercharged but on a stock engine it was one more thing to damage.

 

[cribbj]

80 degrees is very cool to run a modern engine.

My 1UZ runs around 90-95 and is quite happy there and doesn't go above it in traffic, long hills or 4x4íng.

I use Falcon AU twin electric fans and they are just brilliant. Ford had to be able to get at one thing right!

Of interest my LS3 factory ECU turns on the fans at 105 and the second fan at 110!

Rod did I read that right? Did you finally get the LS3 ECU working on the 1UZ? Last I remember the chebby ECU needed some sort of convoluted trigger wheel that was going to be a PITA to retrofit onto the 1UZ?

 

[extractors]

The factory 1uz ran right at the upper limit for water temp when it was new. Newer cars are even worse. There is just very little headroom when things start getting really hot, hill climbing, towing etc. It's really for emissions purposes only. It becomes sort of meaningless to run engines at very high temperatures just because it was 'sold' that way. I pay as much attention to recommended water temps as I would the recommended oil viscosity which is getting absurdly thin nowadays. Holden says your gearbox and diff are filled for life and never need an oil change ?? Yeah right, life = end of warranty period.

 

[Zuffen]

John,

No the LS3 ECU is on my LS3!

From memory Sideshow has fitted Gen ECU's to a few V8's and I'm pretty sure he's done 1UZ's.

The early Gen 3's had few teeth on the trigger wheel and really shouldn't be hard to fit.

I have a spare Gen 3 ECU, DBW throttle body and throttle pedal. I only need a few sensors, some coils and injectors and a loom and I could patch a system together but then I'd need EFilive to tune it.

Extractors,

My Rover has never seen over 100degrees as the cooling system is bulletproof. My Fargo will see 110degrees and I'm comfortable with that.

 

[sideshow]

running engines at high temps is ok
its the rest of the engine bay that fks up

the most produced and used engine in the world is the ls1
fans turn on at 108 degrees
ive had my 1uz up to 120

never had issues with engine
but all plastic stuff round engine bay suffers

fitting ls1 ecu to other engines is easy
get your wallet
give me 20 grand and your engine
ill give it all back ready to run hehehe

its normally easier and way cheaper to fit a decent haltech or vipec or link or wolf

maybe not haltech as a friend has been having major problems with the pricks who work there, very fking rude they are

 

[extractors]

I just see no point in running engines that hot. Just no head room when things get a tad warm, there is a reason manufacturers pull timing in factory ecu's as the water temp increases. My engines are almost cool when opening the bonnet. Oil pressure and oil temps are still well in the normal operating range.
Thanks for the heads up on a Haltech Jim, isn't that the trend with most companies these days.

 

[sideshow]

so u want to argue with the engineers at GM hehe

they run them so hot to pass emissions
they don't give a fk about jo blow
they want to sell new cars that can drive a million kms on one tank

u cant compare what afew forums junkies do to their cars and what huge manufacturers do
they don't care about us because we r not buying a new car every few years

the biggest fear with anyone building up older cars is passing emissions test

 

[extractors]

Hahah, I'm glad your only joking. Yes off course as mentioned to meet tougher and tougher emissions testing. As long as the car last as long as the new car warranty who cares right ?? Wrong.

I actually get sick of people quoting factory specs like they are the goal of some sort, hardly scientific. Cars are not made perfect, they do not have the best parts, they do not make the best power, don't use the best oil, don't stop the best, turn the best and hell no they don't run the ideal temperatures. They are built to a cost to meet a certain requirement, and that requirement is definitely not longevity, and rarely is performance.

Well familiar with the LSx, l98, l76 family of engines. And they have all sorts of thermal issues, that when sorted help those engines a lot. Just look at the design of the pathetic air intake for starters. Did you know that an omega v6 runs the same air box as the VF HSV GTS, this is cost cutting at its finest !

 

[Zuffen]

I guess Holden should have made a smaller airbox for the V6.

 

[sideshow]

that's a good idea zuffen
I have so many looms to do these days
I don't care much about cars hehe

I'll wait till I'm old and help my boys on their cars

got afew nice jobs to do for Moto X
so might have to go down to Sydney for the show

 

[EIL_V8]

Hello fellow Lexthusiast's,

I will cut great to the chase, I have a 1UZFE in a 76 s class mercedes.
The donor car was a 1994 Celsior/ls400. Its running std ecu, and 4 spd trans.
Now when I disconnect the AFM, it runs great, heaps more power through out the rev range, heaps more torque and punch down low. Only problem is it runs well rich, and has a 5,500 rpm rev limit.

Now with AFM connected, it turns into "dog mode", absolute slug, at anything under 3-4k, you really have to work it to do anything. Once you get it on the highway, it does seem ok, not great just ok.

Now for time being Ive rigged up a switch, so I can switch between AFM, and no AFM. When the switch is flicked, there is an instant urgency with the car, when its set to AFM again, "dog mode returns"

Now, Ive got two ecus, and neither are throwing fault codes. Once ECU is a MiNeS ecu, I even went to the trouble of sending it to Japan, to have the once over. They said it checked out fine.

I have tried 3 different AFM'S, I have a V8 soarer aswell, so can easily swap parts around. The V8 soarer, goes very well for a stock v8, and I know the afm on that is working a ok, and pulls nicely on the dyno.

The car in question has the following.
New timing belt, idlers, pulleys, bearings, seals, water pump etc

New rotor buttons, dizy caps, leads, platinum ngk plugs

New (aftermarket coils)

Original igniters.

New 4 wire O2 senors ( have checked voltage output, including heater wires, and all checked out ok)

Custom headers, twin 2 inch into single 2.5 inch exhaust, no cats.

Ive set up TPS to factory specs,

set idle, cleaned IACV, checked for vacumm leaks, replaced all vac lines.

New water temp sender

Ive checked compression, 180-182 psi on all cylinders

Done several upper engine cleans, injector cleans etc.

Car is running a factory mercedes, 094 Bosch external pump.

I'm really out of ideas now ??

Is there anything I'm missing here ?

Brett

Issue could be the 2nd solenoid in the transmission.

Almost EVERY 1uz/A34 gearbox combo has this problem after the 20 year old mark that I've seen.

In drive gear: Car takes off in 1st, misses 2nd and selects 3rd, then goes into OD. May not kick down to 1st again.

If manually shifting the auto: When shifter is in 1st, it selects first. When in 2nd it selects 3rd. When in 3rd it selects OD.

As car is still powerful many people do not realize 2nd gear is missing.

When shifter is in 2nd, that's really 3rd gear.

Classic symptom is "Car is a slug til 3500rpm then takes off".

New shift solenoid is about $80 from USA (Rostra or Rosta brand) - comes in a 2 pack also.

Car has 4 solenoids, 2 control shifting.

A340 or A341E gearbox. Shift solenoids are interchangeable I believe.

Very easy fix. Undo pan, remove solenoid, replace, re fit pan.
1-2 hour job.

Edit:

Oops. Bumped a really old thread.

This information is still valid for anyone else experiencing this issue.

You can do an engine/trans diagnostic check with a paperclip too (google it).