1UZFE runs great without AFM

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
that is the biggest problem
not many do the stand alone thing properly
I know its costs a fair bit of cash to do everything nicely
and if I wasn't in the automotive business and I had a car I probably would not do it up

90% of stuff out there is done to sub par standards and people wonder why things don't work nicely and they get a bad name

I drive a stock toyota these days and it has never let me down
I guess im getting old and prefer other people to waste money on cars and give it to me
instead of me wasting money on cars
 
Yes you are getting old Jim, hahah.

When you work with cars all day the last thing you want is to do more work on your own car, blah blah, I understand. I have had a quiet few years off in the car scene, and now decided to tinker a bit more. I don't spend a lot, do pretty much everything myself, and don't believe half of what I hear. There is so much crap in the performance car scene, it's not funny. i'll give you an idea, 1k for a plastic OTR air intake in a holden or HSV, $ 1000 for an air intake, you sure ? Give me two :)
 
yes its hard to find trustworthy shops anymore
I do work for a shop that is cheaper than some big name shops and much better work
and I find a lot fo shops do half assed jobs and give the car back with half the shit not working and still charge a shitload
or even add a couple thousand extra dollars on the bill from when u ring up to pick up car to when u get there
then u cant get car back till u pay for it
im lucky I just spend money these days on fast rc cars and my house hehe
 
Yep learn from experience. My stumbling block always seems to be tuning, hardware is easy to fit, finding someone to give a rats ass and tune the thing properly is another. RC cars sound fun actually, are they the little gas powered ones ?
 
nar new lipo technology
its a traxxas erevo
run twin 11.1v lipo batts in series which equates to 22.2 v
30 minute run time
and off road buggy doing 80 to 100 kph
and can get it up over 100 on the road with correct gear
but with over 3g spent on it after I bought it im not game to take in on the road
then have 3 other Tamiya rc cars for when my kids grow up, one I still got from 1986
 
I wouldn't mind looking into those, something that would run on the beach could be cool, possibly a few dollars by the sounds of it.

Do you know of any good dyno tuners in Brisbane that you can recommend ? Just want a good reliable tune on my soarer single turbo, it's runs well with stock maps, so doesnt need any trouble shooting. Was going to give STZ on the north side a go ? Have you come accross them ?
 
don't know many places north side as I mainly stick to south side
by time I goto north side the shops just wont pay me for 2 hours travel
what is the ecu
I do abit of work for 101 motorsport
they do a lot of haltechs
 
Doesn't have to be North side. That was just an idea. I wish it was a Haltech, but I settled for an emanage ultimate. Having said that I have found them to be very user friendly and trouble free once set up correctly.
 
Sideshow, I was thinking about what you were saying with the fat fuel mixtures after 80 % throttle.
A few years back I had the 1uzfe soarer on the Dyno. We found a similar story and end up pulling about 5 - 19 % fuel from the table after about 60 % throttle.

Now the easiest and cheapest way to do this would be simply add a Apexi Super AFC. If you only tune high throttle at open loop then no 'relearning' on the ecu's behalf should occur.
 
what ecu are using to tune with Gloverman ?

I also have a spare Mines ecu, but feel that runs even richer mixtures again, might be nice coupled with a fuel trim.
 
This one is getting one of the Link range. Just working through all the traction control , cruise control and ABS signals.
 
Is it a fairly stock engine ?

have you tuned any of the Apexi gear on 1u's before. Apparently some people have been getting good results with the Super AFC's
 
Done plenty of Apexi stuff but never on a 1uz.

This one is stock internals with rush headers and a manual conversion. Really nice setup that the owner wants done right. Big brakes , race seats. It will be on an adaptor so should be able to do a before and after with the ECU.

Done some running the auto too. They come up great.

Did an adaptor today for a VVti 1uz running a supercharger. testing tomorrow.
 
hey kelvin

I dispise soarers
one of my worst cars to work on hahaha
just did a plug in loom for a 1uz into a jza80 supra
hopefully will see how it all goes this week
hardly touch the 1uzs these days, not many getting done around me
 
Your just getting old Jim.

Soarers are very well built cars, built like tanks, there are just alot of rough ones around, goes with anything of similar vintage nowadays.

Be interested to see how that one comes up Kelvin. From memory the 1uz conversion I did was dipping into the 11's at full noise, so I would like to pull some fuel out.
 
Just had a quick look through This thread again.

Can anyone describe how I would adjust the TPS so the car believes it is only getting 80 percent throttle and not 100 percent.

What voltage do I need to aim for ? This might be a simple fix to pull fuel out, from the fuel dump that Occurs at 100 percent throttle that Sideshow describes.
 
Flick a scanner onto it and use the live data to set it. They don't normally see 100% anyway being Toyota. Most of the time with the scanner on and the TPS set correctly it's lucky if you see 75-80%. If you reduce the voltage you will end up with a dirty flatspot off the bottom.

To set the TPS correctly it will be around 500millivolts when closed and idle switch will be on (earthed). 0.25mm of throttle opening the idle switch should be off. I generally flick a test light onto the positive of the battery and use the probe onto the idle switch (wire next to the earth) light will be on at idle. Open throttle plate a little and light goes out. Remember the throttle stop is not the screw at the top of the TB which every idiot trys adjusting , its at the back towards the bottom of the linkages.
 
Ok will have a go, have set them up previously according to the factory specs ?? But I know they were very touchy to set up. After re reading Sideshows posts I'm thinking I should check all this again.

Are the TPS sensors reliable ? Worth replacing ?

Thanks Gloverman, wish you were in Aus for tuning
 
The TPS are somewhat reliable. I replace around 2-3 per year which would work out at around less than 2% of the engines I work on. More often I find it's the ECU thats stuffed over the TPS.
 


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