Standalone ECU 1UZFE 36-1 Trigger Wheel and Megasquirt
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Actually the v3 board only has one vb921 coil driver in it. You have the choice of adding three more which requires mounting, and wiring, or using external igniter modules which is easier. If you were to have cop's with built in drivers like the 6 cylinder subaru I just did with a wasted spark setup, you can drive them directly from the megasquirt. It can have up to 5 outputs for spark.
Great Idea, but with the two plates sandwiched together, How thick is it is that section? The stock trigger wheel is only about .070" thick and if your assembly is any thicker then that then you are pushing the crank pulley out further. Althought probably not enough to cause any major problems with belt alighment issues but decreasing the amount of Keyway contact for the crank pulley which there is already very little to begin with.
No, cant see the picture, and I realize about the step that is in the stock wheel, but with the way that you have it, you are effecting the position of the front pulley. The thickness between let say the timing belt pulley and the crank pulley is .070". This thickness needs to stay at .070" otherwise you are moving the crank pulley away from the motor. The Crank Pulley only has roughly .300" of Keyway contact to begin with. Any thicker then .070" of the trigger wheel and you are taking away from the .300" keyway contact for the pulley. Toyota engines already have issues with keyways and crank pulley's if not torqued properly due to the very little bit of keyway contact that they have to begin with
That make more sense now.
Are you meaning same design but in a 60 tooth configuration? I could do the drawing for ya if needed and forward them to whoever, would just need to know the major diameter needed and if there needs to be any offset in trigger in relationship to TDC and are there any missing teeth.
I dont think that i would waste the money on CNC. I'd cut the basic tooth form and center hole on a lazer and then mechine out the center on a lathe, but it could be done on a CNC as long as its a 5 axis. I only have one place by be that does full 5 axis and they are way to expensive. Mine is actually being done a standard mill with a rotary table by hand.
It would have to be a two steep process no matter how it was done.
Take a solid piece slightly thicker then the finished size, Lazer the outer tooth section and the inner thru hole This being done from what will be the finished back side facing up on lazer bed (i.e. facing lazer head)
once lazer process is finished, then chuck the part on a lathe and machine the rest (i.e. the tapered faces, counter bore for crank pulley and O.D. of part just enough to ensure that it run's true with the crank due to the fact that the lazer will leave a very slight taper.)
It could also be done on a CNC milling machine (3 axis or 5 axis) to do the same work as the lazer and the rest on the lathe.
Also, instead of a lazer, a waterjet could also be used.
I'll check around by me and see if I can get anyone to do it for a reasonable price. I'd do it myself over at my buddies shop, but we only have manual machines (mill and lathe) and I cant get the accuracy needed on the mill for the tooth section (well maybe I can, I'll talk to my buddy work on an idea for it.)
Actually the v3 board only has one vb921 coil driver in it. You have the choice of adding three more which requires mounting, and wiring, or using external igniter modules which is easier. If you were to have cop's with built in drivers like the 6 cylinder subaru I just did with a wasted spark setup, you can drive them directly from the megasquirt. It can have up to 5 outputs for spark.
RICEBURNER169
New Member
i need to know if anyone has a sc400 running on an AEM.
the ecm connector seams to have the same pinout location as a supra turbo at.
i know i'll need to run batch fire for the ign.
has anyone done it yet. thanks for the input!
the ecm connector seams to have the same pinout location as a supra turbo at.
i know i'll need to run batch fire for the ign.
has anyone done it yet. thanks for the input!
Lextreme II
Active Member
Perhaps this will help. Cribbj and I are working on this and this might be the solution to your trigger wheel issue.
I can use sex bolts to put them together.....
I can use sex bolts to put them together.....
Lextreme II
Active Member
Guys,
I made three sets. If you need them, please let me know. They are $20 per set plus 5 shipping in USA and 10 for outside of USA.
I made three sets. If you need them, please let me know. They are $20 per set plus 5 shipping in USA and 10 for outside of USA.
cjsupra90
New Member
Perhaps this will help. Cribbj and I are working on this and this might be the solution to your trigger wheel issue.
I can use sex bolts to put them together.....
Great Idea, but with the two plates sandwiched together, How thick is it is that section? The stock trigger wheel is only about .070" thick and if your assembly is any thicker then that then you are pushing the crank pulley out further. Althought probably not enough to cause any major problems with belt alighment issues but decreasing the amount of Keyway contact for the crank pulley which there is already very little to begin with.
Lextreme II
Active Member
I am glad you ask that question. The stock wheel is .070" but its stamped and the thickness change from .070 to .25" from the base to the wheel. That is why we use two plates to make up the difference. I am not sure if you can view this picture or not but here it is.
The smaller wheel acts as a spacer. Right now I have no use for it. If you guys need different number of teeth please let me now. My guy have the basic drawing already and it can easily change to whatever teeth you want except those for high number of teeth. However, he prefer an order of 5 is possible. Since he is nice enough not to charge me drawing fee.
The smaller wheel acts as a spacer. Right now I have no use for it. If you guys need different number of teeth please let me now. My guy have the basic drawing already and it can easily change to whatever teeth you want except those for high number of teeth. However, he prefer an order of 5 is possible. Since he is nice enough not to charge me drawing fee.
cjsupra90
New Member
I am glad you ask that question. The stock wheel is .070" but its stamped and the thickness change from .070 to .25" from the base to the wheel. That is why we use two plates to make up the difference. I am not sure if you can view this picture or not but here it is.
The smaller wheel acts as a spacer. Right now I have no use for it. If you guys need different number of teeth please let me now. My guy have the basic drawing already and it can easily change to whatever teeth you want except those for high number of teeth. However, he prefer an order of 5 is possible. Since he is nice enough not to charge me drawing fee.
No, cant see the picture, and I realize about the step that is in the stock wheel, but with the way that you have it, you are effecting the position of the front pulley. The thickness between let say the timing belt pulley and the crank pulley is .070". This thickness needs to stay at .070" otherwise you are moving the crank pulley away from the motor. The Crank Pulley only has roughly .300" of Keyway contact to begin with. Any thicker then .070" of the trigger wheel and you are taking away from the .300" keyway contact for the pulley. Toyota engines already have issues with keyways and crank pulley's if not torqued properly due to the very little bit of keyway contact that they have to begin with
Lextreme II
Active Member
Actually, my machinist made a mistake. The larger wheel should have bigger hold to clean the crank pulley insert. I will make those changes. 4 flat head allen bolts will work. I will post some new pictures when available.
cjsupra90
New Member
That make more sense now.
cjsupra90
New Member
I'm actually doing something similar but has to be from a solid piece of aluminum (7076 T6 is my choice). My EMS uses a Hall Effect trigger instead of a VR type so I have to embed magnets into it to trigger the hall effect. I actually made a crank trigger sensor from scratch that fit in the stock location and now am waiting on the trigger wheel to be finished. Here are some pictures, well picture of the sensor and AutoCAD rendering of the trigger wheel. Also is a small short AutoCAD video of the trigger wheel (sorry, the quality isn't the greatest of it. I cant seem to get the quality higher even though its at the highest setting in AutoCAD). (nevermind, figured out the issue with the Vid quality.)
Video: http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i9/chris1uz/?action=view¤t=wmv2.flv
Video: http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i9/chris1uz/?action=view¤t=wmv2.flv
Lextreme II
Active Member
Nice work bro... can you cnc them into 60 teeth? I think John was asking me that.
cjsupra90
New Member
Are you meaning same design but in a 60 tooth configuration? I could do the drawing for ya if needed and forward them to whoever, would just need to know the major diameter needed and if there needs to be any offset in trigger in relationship to TDC and are there any missing teeth.
I dont think that i would waste the money on CNC. I'd cut the basic tooth form and center hole on a lazer and then mechine out the center on a lathe, but it could be done on a CNC as long as its a 5 axis. I only have one place by be that does full 5 axis and they are way to expensive. Mine is actually being done a standard mill with a rotary table by hand.
CJ, yes I was interested in a 60 tooth design with the same OD as the OEM Toyota wheel. It's a bit small to be crowding 60 teeth onto, and I don't know that a standard VR sensor would cut it, so I was going to try with the MRE sensors. I would take care of deleting the 2 teeth where necessary.
BTW, for your application, did you look at the MRE sensors? They put out a signal like a Hall, because they are actually 2 Hall's set up in a differential circuit. Apparently you get a nice 5v square wave out, but you don't need to mess about with aluminum wheels and magnets. Just use a standard ferrous wheel with normal "teeth" and these things will count them like a VR. I had posted about them once before - think if you do a search on the site for "MRE" you'll find them. Also found out that Cherry Switch manufacture them and Allied Electronics in Chicago sell them for around $15 to $20 IIRC.
BTW, for your application, did you look at the MRE sensors? They put out a signal like a Hall, because they are actually 2 Hall's set up in a differential circuit. Apparently you get a nice 5v square wave out, but you don't need to mess about with aluminum wheels and magnets. Just use a standard ferrous wheel with normal "teeth" and these things will count them like a VR. I had posted about them once before - think if you do a search on the site for "MRE" you'll find them. Also found out that Cherry Switch manufacture them and Allied Electronics in Chicago sell them for around $15 to $20 IIRC.
cjsupra90
New Member
Yeah, I knew about MRE sensors from messing around with the rear ABS sensor on the MKIII supras and trying to us it as a VSS for an aftermarked electronic speedo... The problem with using them for my EMS is that my system looks for the 5V square wave trigger each trigger point and a secondary trigger syncronization, it doesn't do any sort of counting of teeth. Yes it could be done but I think that it would have been a lot more work.
cjsupra90
New Member
Is this more or less what you are looking for? It is 100mm O.D., same as the stock trigger wheel.
Here is a Video fly around like the one for mine.
http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i9/chris1uz/?action=view¤t=wmv1-1.flv
Here is a Video fly around like the one for mine.
http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i9/chris1uz/?action=view¤t=wmv1-1.flv
Looks the business; unfortunately I can't download the video due to our site firewall restrictions. Are those saw teeth on there or square teeth?
Know anyone that could/would make this? Our shops in Houston might be interested if I wanted 1000 or so, but for a one-off, not a chance.
Know anyone that could/would make this? Our shops in Houston might be interested if I wanted 1000 or so, but for a one-off, not a chance.
Lextreme II
Active Member
CJ,
I talked to my guy with a laser cutter and he stated it can not be done. What type of machine will you be using to accomplish the 60 teeth wheel?
I talked to my guy with a laser cutter and he stated it can not be done. What type of machine will you be using to accomplish the 60 teeth wheel?
cjsupra90
New Member
It would have to be a two steep process no matter how it was done.
Take a solid piece slightly thicker then the finished size, Lazer the outer tooth section and the inner thru hole This being done from what will be the finished back side facing up on lazer bed (i.e. facing lazer head)
once lazer process is finished, then chuck the part on a lathe and machine the rest (i.e. the tapered faces, counter bore for crank pulley and O.D. of part just enough to ensure that it run's true with the crank due to the fact that the lazer will leave a very slight taper.)
It could also be done on a CNC milling machine (3 axis or 5 axis) to do the same work as the lazer and the rest on the lathe.
Also, instead of a lazer, a waterjet could also be used.
I'll check around by me and see if I can get anyone to do it for a reasonable price. I'd do it myself over at my buddies shop, but we only have manual machines (mill and lathe) and I cant get the accuracy needed on the mill for the tooth section (well maybe I can, I'll talk to my buddy work on an idea for it.)
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