1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

[cebby]

Got tied up with stuff - back to it this week hopefully.

It appears that the AC pumps I'm finding are R134 for the 1UZ. My 4Runner was R12. Are there other components I need to switch out along with the pump, or can I reuse what I have?

The other thing I'm finding is regarding the alternators. Do I have to use the LS400 alt with the heat shield, or can I use an SC400 alt (no heat shield).

Anyone know if the 1UZ and 2UZ accessories are interchangable? (PS Pump, AC Pump, alternator)

 

[cebby]

OK, I found a PS pump and a Alt locally for a reasonable price, but ran into a question on the AC pump.

The salvage yard I was speaking to said the AC pumps were the same for 90-92, then different for 93-97. They have a 92, but I think my engine is a 94. He said there is a difference with the clutch pulley and suction tube (?).

can anyone shed some light on this?

 

[cebby]

Anyone have the part numbers for the bolts that hold the AC Compressor to the block? Or the size/length?

 

[cebby]

OK - after a long break, I finally got back to it today...

Went from this:


To this:


I'm replacing the timing belt and water pump in case you couldn't figure it out. I found a good writeup for dismantling the front of the motor - a few minor inconsistencies, but overall, not too bad.

That took about 2 1/2 hours including a run to the auto parts store to buy a puller for the crank pulley. Oh, I was all worried about getting the crankshaft bolt out since the motor was out of the vehicle - I had visions of using some ungodly breaker bar and flipping then engine over on to the floor. It was really a piece of cake. My impact took it right off with no fanfare.

I hope to get back down there tomorrow and put the motor back together. Plenty to do there including starter rebuilt (5 minute job), PS pump rebuild, water pump, timing belt, caps/rotors, plugs, wires, etc.

Hey, check out the difference between the waterpump I pulled off compared to the new one. The existing one has a plastic impeller, while I new one is metal. Of course I get the old one off and it still looks brand new on the inside...

Old one:


New one:


I'm hoping my tranny jack arrives from HF tomorrow so I can finallly get the motor and trans out. I still need to assembly the t-cases and crawler assembly, so it will be a little while until I can fit all this stuff in there. I think I'll be fabbing my own crossmember also.

 

[cebby]

Got some more done today. Rebuilt the starter and reinstalled it, installed the new waterpump, and then I turned my direction to the timing belt. That's where I need a little help.

First a little background, I removed the existing timing belt yesterday. While it did look a little worn, it still had all of its teeth. While the belt was still on, I moved the crank to get the pulley to line up with the "0" mark per the instructions in the writeup I followed. It appears that this was not the original timing belt either based on some of the things I found when dismantling the front of the motor. (white zip ties)

The right bank has the alignment marks on it and it appears to be in the correct spot. Here's the strange part. The left bank mark seems to be off by roughly 180 degrees. Now I've never heard the engine run since it is a JDM import, but I made sure nothing moved when I removed the belt.

My question is this - should I assume that the positioning of everything WAS ok? Or do I need to get that mark on the left pulley into the position where it would match up with the line on the timing belt?

Here's how it sat with the existing belt on (notice where the mark is on the left pulley - on the right in the pic):


Got the bottom on correctly:


The right bank lines up:


The left side is another matter...


Anyone know what I should do here?

Thanks!!!

 

[cebby]

Here's what I found on the pulleys:

Right Pulley - the paint mark is 180 degrees from notch in the pulley. I'm pointing to the notch in this pic:


Left Pulley - the paint mark is right next to the notch in the pulley. I'm pointing to the notch in this pic:


Is this normal for the paint marks to not match the nothces? I don't get it...

 

[cebby]

OK, take two...

Here she is all cleaned up.


The copper RTV was a major PITA to remove from the pump (those grooves do a nice job of keeping the RTV in there. At least I learned from it.


Considerably less this time, plus I smeared it around to make sure it was even.


Side view

 

[cebby]

Waterpump back on (sorry a little fuzzy)


Got the thermostat housing back on also (a pre-schmear pic...)


Even got the cams lined up properly while installing the timing belt this time.

 

[cebby]

Idlers reinstalled also...


Crank pulley and cover back on too


This is as far as I got yesterday (I did this AFTER replacing the waterpump, thermostat and changing the oil on my 2000 JGC)

 

[TOYJOETA]

Updates?

Any updates? did your engine come with a full wiring harness or did you buy a seperate one?

Thanks
Late
Joe

 

[cebby]

I bought a harness from David (Lextreme). No progress since I've posted - I live the life of a consultant - I'm either busy WITH work or busy CHASING work. I'm also trying to launch a couple of new endeavors so that doesn't help with my time crunch. I think I have all the parts I need, so the hunting and gathering is done - just need to get-r-done...

 

[cebby]

I guess it's time for an update. After a long absence, I've been able to spend some quality time with the 4Runner this week. Three separate sessions. Maybe a total of 5 hours or so (?).

Last week, I discovered that the gantry hoist that was at my disposal was too short (due to ceiling height) for me to pull the motor and clear the radiator core support, so I got a folding "Sams Club special" hoist. I think it was around $169. I'm not adding that time into the swap, since I had wanted to get a hoist anyway.

Session #1
Remove stubborn as a mo-fo driveshaft bolts. This seemed to take forever. Each took a breaker bar and several hard whacks with a deadblow. Pulled the driveshafts. I found it easier to remove the bolts at the diffs - the tcase end seemed to be pressed/rusted in place. I was able to knock these out afterwards, but not while on the vehicle.




Also removed the motormount bolts, disconnected the fuel line, throttle cable, tranny dipstick bracket, tranny fluid lines that went to the radiator, steering stabilizer, shift linkage and a few other misc little things I had missed before. I also took a sawzall to the downpipe at this point.

Here's the downpipe cut - I got in there where I could. I unbolted those two bracket bolts and the bracket dropped to the floor - it probably should have been attached...

 

[cebby]

Session #2
At this point, the motor is free enough to lift it up and pull forward so I can get at the top transmission bolts. I'm convinced that there is absolutely no way in hell these can be removed any other way since these took a long breaker bar to bust them loose. I removed the top 4 bolts and also removed the starter (let it hang). At this point, I also unplugged the wiring that was on top of the front of the trans. I think I only cracked one connector. The vehicle IS 13 years old.




Dropped the motor/trans back down to the motor mounts and went to work on the other bellhousing bolts. All the while I had the trans/tcase supported by one floorjack with the HF trans jack adapter. This thing works OK, but it is way too tall unless you have your vehicle up on jack stands,some sort of hoist, or a bigger lift/tires - but OK for supporting it while I pulled the motor. There are a few more wiring connectors that need to be removed at this point from the back end of the trans/tcase.

To separate the engine from the trans, I took a long piece of tubing (about 5') and with the engine/trans combo lifted back up slightly (so I could get a sightline to where the BH meets the engine), I took the piece of tube, threaded it through the core support and put it on the edge of the BH flange and gave ti a few whacks with a deadblow. After getting it separated about 1/2", I started to violently yank the hoist back and forth until the engine separated from the trans completely. I was finally able to get the 3.0 up and out. Even with the better clearance of the hoist, I had to lift the engine to the point where the end of the lifting arm was up between the ceiling joists, so I had to do a little monkeying to get the engine over core suppport, but under the joists to a skid I had nearby. That empty engine bay is the most reward part of this swap so far.



FINALLY!!!

 

[cebby]

Session #3
I have limited overhead space and didn't want to mess with trying to lift the 4Runner OVER the trans and jack - so with a combo of low profile floorjacks and some finagling, I was able to get the unit safely to the smooth concrete floor where I could drag it out from under. When putting the new trans back in, I really need to modify the HF trans adapter so it isn't so freakishly tall. I don't think I really need the pivot function anyway - didn't use it so far. Fortunately, there are at least 4 floorjacks floating around the shop I'm working in. That was one heavy mutha...

Coming up next - 1UZ to do's (modify fan hydro pump - turn into idler pulley, remove cut-off exhaust collector flange studs, replace fuel rail o-rings, reassemble engine intake, plugs, wires, caps, do cosmetic stuff, mount up the wiring harness, etc), Trans to do's (run oil coolant lines and prep for aux cooler, figure out wiring), and finally Tcase to do's (install 4.7's and doubler assembly) and driveshaft length changes, etc.

At least I finally made some REAL progress...

 

[cebby]

On to the motor mounts...

Well - the previous notion of reusing the existing 3VZE motor moutns was only partially true. The rubber isolators that are a part of the 1UZFE setup are way too tall - not to mention the configuration just isn't going to work. Here's what I'm working with.

This is what the welded mount looks like in the 2nd Gen 4Runner/3Rd Gen Truck with the 3VZE - all of these pics show the drivers side mount - the passenger side is just the opposite, nothing out of the ordinary:


Here's the motor mount attached to the 3VZE engine:


Here's the mount removed from the motor and bolted back into the 4Runner

 

[cebby]

The nut down inside there holds the part that bolts the engine to the rubber portion of the mount:


Here's the 3VZE mount split into its components:


Well, the 1UZFE driverside mount (rubber part) was trashed on this JDM motor, so here's a pic of the passenger side mount - you can see that its quite a bit different then the 3VZE mounts.

 

[cebby]

Here's the 1UZFE mount split into its components:


And finally, here's a side by side comparison of the two mounts:


I'm going to do something similar to the moutns made by "Sideshow" from Lextreme. He has a 1UZFE in a 2WD 3rd Gen pickup - with NO BODYLIFT. If you've been reading, it has been thought that this swap will only fit with a 2" BL. I have a 1" BL and didn't want to go any higher - Hell, I'd like to take it out eventually. Sideshow used the bottom half of the 3VZE mount and fashioned new part that attaches to the engine. Seems to be pretty simple - I have a front diff to content with though, so mine will be slightly different. Here's a pic of what he did:

 

[cebby]

Well, the idea of removing the guts of the fan oil pump seemed simple enough. Little did I know what I was in for. Every puller I tried was ineffective to remove the pulley. So I finally go over to the shop press and have at it.

Good news and bad news. Good news is that I got it off. Bad news is that I pringled the pulley in the process. The pulley is unusable.

So, I initially set out to find an idler assembly that bolts into the same spot. This is available on some models of 1UZ - namely the models that have electric fans. I was told LS400's, but I have yet to confirm that.

Anyway, here's the item I'm referring to:

The offending pulley...


The whole unit:


With all the other stuff stripped off:


It's off - can't tell from the pic, but the pulley is fubar.

 

[cebby]

Here's what's inside:




For reference, this pulley was right above the crank pulley:


It turns out that some of the folks on the Lextreme forum have just removed this item and are running a shorter belt. The only potential issue is that the crank pulley then only has about 30% wrap on it down from maybe 50%+. I'm concerned about what might happen with water crossings and belt slippage - plus if I add a higher output alternator for a welder or want to add a supercharger, I might have issues with belts slipping. I'm scouting for a pic of the idler to #1 see if I can locate one or #2 see if it's possible to fabricate something.

 

[cebby]

Beginning of the fan pump discussion is here:

http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?p=42411&posted=1#post42411