1UZFE/2UZFE into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (U.S.)

[cebby]

More engine PC done (hub dials too):

 

[Mattmannz]

Any updates Cebby?

Matt.

 

[cebby]

Just waiting on my parts to come back from VA. Turns out the coolant pipe that goes under the intake is too long for my buddies oven, so that piece may have to be done locally if I get too impatient for him to finish his larger oven.

There's no shortage of other stuff to work on, but I am getting my engine hooks PC'd also. Makes it tough to fit the motor without those...

I'll probably do some of the transmission and transfer case work next week.

 

[Big]

Crickey **** Cebby..you have been busy..been away last year..or so..cough :Eyecrazy: Been building our house....in the mean time have got my tranni sorted and truck..am looking for a rear lex..they are bloody hard to come by....:hypnotized: anyways..nice PCing you have done .Keep up the good work..nice to have a read again, got me all inspired again..hehe

Cheers K

btw..i'm in NZ..Big hi to all the fellow kiwis here...

 

[cebby]

More to follow shortly. My PC parts will be back in my possession soon so I can assembly the motor for the last time and get this in once and for all.

 

[gte]

This is all the external wiring that is needed to get the 1uz to start???

To make my question more clear, I could put this motor in a tractor, and hook this wiring up and get it to start!!!???

Now that the easy part.

EB2 connector is a 3 pin connector and is near the igniter
EB1 connector is a 6 pin connector and is near the igniter
IJ2 connector is 17 pin connector near the ECU is dark gray, has 2 rows of pins.

You need swithced power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need swithced power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire
You need switched power to IJ2(11). This is a black and orange wire.

You need constant power to EB1(4). This is a black and yellow wire


To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire.

And of course you need to figure out what it takes to turn your fuel pump on. Different on every vehicle.


Now isn't that EASY!!!!

 

[SuperRunner]

You sure could.

I should probably make a video of me doing this with the engine just sitting on the ground.

 

[cebby]

What, no one's curious?

Pardon the dust...







These are much darker in person. A very close match to my 4Runner paint.

 

[cebby]

OK finally got a couple of hours to do some clean up and start assembling my 1UZ today.

First I installed the plug tube gaskets into the cam covers.


Hit them with a coating of oil to make it easy to insert them.




Here's where the inventiveness comes in... I took this shot on a timer and held the camera under my chin to get the shot (that was my 2nd try)


Here I've taped off the various passages so I can give it a cleaning - obviously not a Smitherz level of cleaning, but I wanted to get the grunge off of it while it's all apart. This is a pre-cleaning shot (although after the cleaning, it isn't vastly cleaner - at least I know it's clean...


Here's some teasers with a few of the parts on the engine (not done cleaning yet though), plus I need to get bolts for the starter to reverse the mounting for easy removal.








Maybe a new avatar??

 

[cebby]

Here's the color match. Since I was trying to match a dark metallic, I opted to match to the bright-sunlight version (as in the color it takes on when it sunlight). As anyone who has dark metallic paint can testify, it looks different in various lighting conditions. It's not exact, but it's a stock color I'll always be able to get.

 

[cebby]

Just realized that my PCV grommet that was in the valve cover is destroyed, so I need another one. I have a new valve, but no grommet - anyone have a part number?

 

[earthman]

In Australia they are T - 90480 – 18001 and should be $6.95. Sorry Cebby, don’t know if they would be the same part number in the States…..

 

[cebby]

Thanks Earthman (boy am I late...). I picked one up for a hair under that here.

I've got some reassembly questions. I already found a thing or two I forgot - I thought my photo documentation would be good enough to go from, but I missed a few things... (forgot my camera today - pics to follow)

• Is there a just a bolt in the passenger side fuel rail blocking an extra hole (toward the rear of the motor). Is it a special thread cuz i started a bolt into the hole and got a little resistance, so I stopped before boogering up the threads.
  
• The small separate harness up toward the front of the motor, in what order should that be installed? Anyone have a decent pic of how they pulled that area apart? Seems I forgot to photograph that part of the process.

There's more, but that's all that comes to mind at the moment.

 

[Smitherz]

Any of these pics help out? I'm trying to figure out which bolt hole you're talking about that's in the fuel rail. I think the short wiring harness you are talking about is the one that clips onto the drivers side fuel rail for support, goes over the water passageway, behind the black cam pulley guard, then plugs into the distributors and a couple of other things up front. You will want to install all these parts at the same time as they fit together like a puzzle.

There are a handful of things that need to be in place right before you lower the bottom intake manifold onto the engine. I took a picture just before I put it on that I haven't put in my thread yet. I'll be doing that now since it's kinda important not to forget anything. :stooges:

Your engine looks great big guy. If you got a bright white lamp shining on that thing with a white backdrop it would probably look as clean as mine. :silly:

 

[cebby]

Ah, that's where that little hose goes... I've got to find that little bugger. Those pics help a lot.

I remember that harness being a bitch to get out, I vaguely remember how it went, but that was literally eons ago. I'm just happy I got the fuel system back together and on the lower intake - it looks like some much needed progress finally.

My engine pales by comparison in the cleanliness category. I'm counting on the dark colors helping to create some shadows in areas that aren't pristine. Besides, it's going into a northeastern US 4Runner. At this rate, the engine will be the cleanest thing in it.

 

[Smitherz]

Here is a little work I did this morning to put the pictures up of my intake manifold installation. I have restored a lot of cars and bikes in my day so my mind goes numb as I sit there stripping and cleaning things. :hypnotized: I've learned a lot of tricks and the trick is to let the chemicals do all the work. Sometime I ask myself if it's worth it. To me it is so whatever, hehe. We wouldn't be doing all of this stuff for anyone else! These pics probably would have been more help to you last week. :welcome:

Keep up the progress. It sounds like out engines will be running around the same time.

 

[cebby]

Smitherz - do you have a shot of the connection to the underside of the upper intake. I must have a box of parts for the intake somewhere since I can't find that round thing that goes on the front of the intake, nor the fuel line that connects to the intake either. I see how that mini harness goes - I definitely need to pull the intake again.

 

[cebby]

Smitherz - nevermind... I found the parts (one box of intake stuff...check!). I discovered that I need to get some more bolts powdercoated!

 

[Smitherz]

Ok cool, busy day here in the rain. It's pretty easy to forget about that stuff plugged into the bottom of that upper intake. I like that Hammerite paint. It's the toughest paint there is for spraying quick bolts and my friends use it on their race car roll cages all the time. :usa2:

 

[mopwer]

supscribed:biggrin:

Greg