Time to start fitting 1UZ into my hilux

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

Guts

New Member
Messages
385
Location
Albury, NSW, Australia
Last Wednesday I ordered my adaptor from Castlemain Rod Shop on COD, Picked it up and payed for it on Tuesday. Today I gave the motor a quick wash over and tomorrow I am putting the adaptor on the gearbox, installing the clutch etc and bolting it all together. Then if all goes well I will be dropping all this back into the rails and just blocking it up at the correct hight that I want. Then come next weekend or one night thought the week I`ll be dropping the cab back on. Then starts the fun of wiring it all up.
 
Unfortantly my camera isn`t working ATM as my 3 year old son got his hands on it and dropped it and it is in getting fixed, but otherwise I would take pics.
 
Photo's of the fit up...

Hey Guts and crew,

just in the middle of the same conversion and i managed to leave my digital camera in my other car, so didn't get any good quality snaps of the instal thus far...But i did have my camera phone handy...
 
Next part is...

Like Guts I'll be doing up the engine mounts (I'll remember my camera this time).

The gearbox is a 5 sp R150F with a VF2A Chain Drive transfer (I have an RF1A Gear drive spare and will adapt it up later with some crawling gears) and a Dellow Bellhousing.

Very minor mods to the gearbox crossmember are required and not worth mentioning.

The firewall needs a minor massage to have the engine sit back as far as possible to allow a thermo fan to fit (passanger side where the A/C sits inside teh cabin). I dummied in a 10" fan to confirm that it will fit and i'll put in either two 10" fans or one big one.

Other items are for the conversion are:
Ordering a handbrake relocation kit from Marks adapters (tomorrow)
2" Body lift kit
One piece rear tail shaft
New custom fuse and relay box

Other general mods to the car:
Suspension (considering Parabolics on extended shackles with Ranch 9000's but still a bit undecided)
Air Lockers front and rear (ordered)

Cheers guys
 
Hi there lads,
I've been doing the same conversion now for the last 3 months, but to a 2wd. Modifying my sump to clear the front cross member is my current challenge.

Things that most people will want to know: The 1UZFE is running on an engine stand at the moment with the standard ECU, and I've mated a recond W58 (from an early model supra/celica) using a custom adapter plate, auto bell housing and redrilled 3SGTE (94 MR2) flywheel and clutch. I've taken a whole bunch of pics and will put them up once everything is perfect. Shuey, I'm assuming that since you're raising the lux that the centre sump won't be a problem.

I definitely recommend crawling these forums for info, as about 70% of all questions have been answered in here at some stage...

Good luck with your conversion.
 
Sump and Stuff

Hey Muzza,

Thanks for your post. Looking forward to seeing your photos.

Like you i have spent many a late night scouring this forum for relevant infomation. I have pretty much got things down pat...as you say, alot of questions have been answered here... for me, it has been alot more than 70%!

This would be my 8th conversion now (from memory...others being skylines, rotary's... many turbo stuff with motec & microtech) and a source of information like this is invaluable. To all those out there planning on a conversion or simply looking to trouble shoot a problem, have a good look around, the answers are here!

Although the conversion is not yet finished a big thanks goes to all people posting technical info, especially Kdog. The wiring schematics and pin out diagrams have saved me a monster head ache. Also this site http://www.autoshop101.com/ which has explained alot about wiring etc...

As far as my sump goes... Hmm. I would prefer a front sump (so if any one has one, I'm interested). The current one clears the front diff with about 60mm clearance and i have yet to lift the engine for the new mounts, but I'd say i'll have about 90 -100 mm when all said and done... with suspension, i figure another 50mm... but the current sump is right in line with the diff, so... for the sake of no worries, a front sump would be great!

Muzza, if you have a photo of your adapter plate, post it... I sat around with my vernier for a few days contenplating an adapter, but talked myself out of it due to time...

Cheers,

Shuey
 
Pics of supra gearbox adapter plates

Hi all,
These pics are examples of two different adapter plates. Sorry for the poor quality of the shots, but you get the idea.

'Adapt plate 3 & 4' are examples of an extremely well made, professionally machined adapter - I did not make this, it was actually one I looked at buying, as the guy was building a modded 1UZ and didn't think a W55 would cut it - he may have gone for the R154, I can't remember - Quite expensive but you get what you pay for.

'Gearbox and adapter 1 & 2' are pics of the adapter plate that I've used. I actually bought this one from Quest 4 in NZ. It was real cheap, but the build quality wasn't great (I guess you've got to balance cost/quality) I had to drill and tap the bellhousing bolt holes, and the centre spigot had 1mm slop, which I shimmed and centred using a DTI - took about a day to get it matched up exactly right.

Before I finish the project, I hope to take some glamour shots of all my machined parts so that everyone in my situation can benefit from the mistakes that I've made - I'll produce a full write up too.

Hope that helps,

Muzza
 
Got off my lazy arse this arvo and trial fitted my cab. With the T case still in the standard location and the motor sitting basicly at the hight I want it at I can get the body bolts back in but they are sitting at angle with the tops of them back about 10mm. The motor is hitting the fire wall on either side of the tunnel which is stopping the cab from coming forward the approx 10mm to 15mm that it needs to. I`m undecided wheather to give the fire wall a bit of loven with a hammer or to move the motor etc forward about 30mm.

The hump in the fire wall for the AC evaporator isn`t a problem (for me) like shuey has said but I allready have a 2 inch body lift, but the mounting plate for the clutch line is, which is just a matter of bending it out of the way.
 
Guts,
I did a similar "lovin" job on my firwall (Range Rover) and it is worth the efort.

Think about the problems of relocating the cab rearwards 10mm. Minimal distance but it introduces all srts of prblems.

Get into it with a big hammer.
 
Nar I`m going to move the motor etc forward 30 to 35mm. Had a good look at it last night and this is the best sollution and it will still leave just enough room for a thermo fan. Hardest bit to do with doing it this way is making the hole in the floor for the gear stick bigger and that an`t hard.
 
What about front and rear prop shafts?

I left my trans in the stock location to save cutting up the floor and modifying the drive line.

How will you go with the shafts?
 
Will shorten the front and lengthen the rear, but I`m thinking about putting a 2nd T case in using a marlin adaptor while I`m at it as I want to put one in later on anyway. If I do it now it`ll save me having to do the shafts again.

Made up some engine mounts today and got the whole thing mounted but the mounts are only tacked in for now. All I did with the mounts was use the standard crom mounts on the motor and cut the standard mounts out of the frame in the half cut cleaned them up then just welded some RHS to them and to the frame. The longest part was lifting the cab and motor in and out about 5 times. Think I have the drivers side a tad higher than the passengers side so I`ll have to adjust that either tomorrow or next weekend.
Next weekend my auto lec mate is coming around and we are going to tackle the wiring, have printed out the wiring diagram so that should make things alot easier.
 


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