Yet another 1uz mk4 supra

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I'm back with pictures and a short movie.

Lets rewind first.. back to fall 2009. First motor became a casualty of 25psi and 20 degrees of timing on 93 octane.(my own fault) That fun excersize resulted in a cracked piston skirt. But for the split second it made about 380rwhp. Picked up a junkyard motor for 400 dollars, 24 hours later I was back in business. Drove the car for about a month and during one of the last nice falls days the driveshaft broke. Poor welding, no penetration. Now about a month ago i got a replacement driveshaft for the car and started driving it everyday. Running 9psi currently on 67mm turbo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJp_8wssHho

broken driveshaft:
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/broken_driveshaft.JPG

can u spot which cylinder had the cracked piston?
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02587.JPG

lots of little things to finish
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02588.JPG

looking straight down
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02589.JPG

upskirt 1
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02590.JPG


upskirt 2
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02591.JPG

trans and ps coolers
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02592.JPG

TH400 w/transbrake
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02594.JPG

turbo mounted low
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02595.JPG

how many turbo cars can you spot?
http://maxveprinsky.com/upload/supra/DSC02596.JPG

Today I changed all fluids in the car and started using Valvoline VR1 20w50, it is actually to thick for standard bearing clearances, oil pressure hits 100+psi over 4000 rpm, need to go back to 10w30 and add oil cooler. With 10w30 I had ~70psi at 6500 rpm but it gets super thin when cruising at 4000 rpm for 20 minutes on highway as things get pretty hot.
I'm going to put a GM flex fuel sensor on the car and let the ProEFI control boost and timing when it senses ethanol or E85. I don't think I can turn the boost past 11-12 on pump gas on this stock compression motor with weak pistons.
 
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Sounds awesome Max.

Q on your gauges, that's not the stock Supra combination meter is it? The faces look different. I briefly caught a glimpse of a TRD logo on the tach, but that didn't look like the usual TRD tach either. Are those the Revolution gauges?

Also, would you mind if I edit your post and wrap
 
Hmmm, that wasn't such a hot idea to hotlink to the images; they're pretty big! So I left the URL's for them instead.
 
Drained out the 20w50 and replaced with 5w30 as per lexus spec. High oil pressure problems still exist. I think the K&N oil filter is restrictive causing the high oil pressure. I'm using the a oil pressure sensor in the factory oil pressure switch location. Anyone know off hand if that is pre or aft oil filter? Ive been using fram oil filters and never experiences such high oil pressures. I'll pickup a mobile 1 filter tomorrow and swap it out.
 
Max, I think that whole oil filter cast adapter piece is pretty restrictive (as well as perhaps your filter). On my remote setup, the oil pressure initially goes to 70 or so with the cold oil, but then comes back to 30-40. This is with the twin canister Amsoil setup where I'm running the "normal" Toyota Landcruiser filter, and Amsoil's bypass filter. And I currently have at least 6' of -10 AN line from the oil pump to the filter housing.

I would say try the Mobil1 filter, then a Toyota Landcruiser filter to see if either one gives you better results.

I've got a cutup oil filter bracket out in the garage, I'll have a look and see where the OEM pressure switch is mounted.
 
Max, in my cutup filter bracket, the pressure switch is downstream, or after the filter. It's actually mounted on the same pipe as the oil filter spins on, just the opposite end.
 
I'm defiantly looking to do a oil cooler. I've got a 25 row mocal that should fit in front of the driverside wheel. John, would you send some pictures of your setup, it sound like the cats meow.
 
Max here's a pic or two of my remote setup:

The adapter plate made by cutting up the OEM filter bracket, and welding on a pair of male -10 AN bungs:
IMG_0734Medium.jpg

On the dyno with it:
IMG_0804.jpg

And a closeup pic of the Amsoil remote adapter:
IMG_1270Custom.jpg

But in thinking about your setup, and where the oil pressure sensor is located (after the filter), I don't see how this could be causing your problems. You're sensing the restriction of the motor, not of the oil filter or its bracket. (This is, of course, assuming your oil filter bracket is built like the cutup one I have here)

Maybe as you say the answer is to stay with the thinner oil and put the oil cooler on to combat the thinning out. That or run the thicker oil but put an electric preheater in your sump to keep the oil warm. Is it still pretty chilly up in Chicago?
 
It is indeed odd, before oil and filter change, oil pressures were:
~80 at start up when cold
~40 at idle when cold
~20 at idle when warm
~40 at 3K rpm when warm
~80 at 7k rpm when warm
When oil gets superhot (extended highway crusing at 4K rpm) I've seen as low as 5psi at idle, but once cools off oil pressure went back to ~20

Now I am totally kicking myself in the because I moved the temp sensor for dashboard gauge from engine oil pan to trans pan and trans doesn't even get that hot.

After oil and filter change oil pressures went up roughly 20psi across the board. Lowest oil pressure I've seen was ~20psi when superhot. I didn't have a chance to swap oil filters, but hopefully tomorrow.

Check out this informative web page about oil filters. Seems like the toyota one is actually a pretty good filter. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/
 
Changed a 2002 Tundra 4.7 oil filter and the pressures have stayed the same at low rpm but are about 10 psi higher at top rpm. I have a nagging suspicion that it may be the pressure sender. This weekend I'm planning to Tee in a mechanical gauge off the turbo feed to get a second opinion.
 
Max, in my cutup filter bracket, the pressure switch is downstream, or after the filter. It's actually mounted on the same pipe as the oil filter spins on, just the opposite end.

John you are correct! The oil pressure sender is aft filter, so it makes even less sense as to why the pressures have spiked up so much. I can't think of any other change I did to the car on the night of oil and filter change that would cause the pressure to get so high. Any ideas?
 
Max, the only thing I can think of is that the bypass/relief valve internal to the oil pump is sticking, and not relieving at the pressure it's supposed to. That, or there's a major restriction in the system downstream of the filter.

Or, as you say, you have a faulty sensor for your oil pressure. Are you using an AEM sensor there?

I'd definitely get a 2nd opinion, because troubleshooting the relief valve piston/spring in the pump means at least dropping the sump to get at it.
 

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Yes it could be very well sticking, I did not shim it as some do to increase oil pressure. I felt that adding 1 turbocharger would not cause a significant drop in our pressure. One would think that having 110 psi of oil pressure would cause some leaking from the front main seal.
 
Looking at those oil pump pictures you posted reminded me to mention that one can use the 2jz oil pump to oil pickup tube gasket. It's rubber impregnated metal style vs paper.
 


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