Variety of issues

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
MaccyD said:
Also, i asked before about this but didnt get round to taking a picture. Whats the sensor pictured? Sits on the front passenger side (RHD) can i just unplug this and remove it? I think its carbon canister related but would like to confirm as it may be contributing to my high idle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/George106xsi/20121103_163600.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats part of the EVAP system, the item above it is part of the EGR system.
You can junk it all as it's not required for the UK.

Here's an engine I completed last Christmas, it had all the same junk as yours.
private029.jpg

I unplugged everything that wasn't needed and just sealed the open ends of the plugs and tucked them away out of sight.
Then made a small aluminium blanking plate to cover the holes that were left when the ERG was removed.
 
Bushwhacker said:
Thats part of the EVAP system, the item above it is part of the EGR system.
You can junk it all as it's not required for the UK.

Here's an engine I completed last Christmas, it had all the same junk as yours.
private029.jpg

I unplugged everything that wasn't needed and just sealed the open ends of the plugs and tucked them away out of sight.
Then made a small aluminium blanking plate to cover the holes that were left when the ERG was removed.
Click to expand...

Wow! Looks really great.
 
so, didn't read the whole thing, so maybe you covered it, but the obvious is the coolant temp sensor and possibly O2. I have a LS400 that I race with everything stripped (EGR, Carbon can, cats etc....) and it starts, runs and idles just like it came off the showroom floor. I have a Corolla race car that's stripped even further and that does the hunting idle/rotary thing....
 
Bushwhacker - Engine looks great! I have similar plans as fa as tidying, but hoping to get it running before removing it all. Ive already made blanking plates for the EGR system, its just the solenoid is still there. I will properly blank off the EVAP hose from the throttle body.

Spinnetti - Was that still with stadard ECU? Im guessing you had aftermarket systems to achieve that? Also, is there a way i can diagnose he water temp sensor and/or the lambda? Im on a bit of a budget and have learnt the hard way before how costly it can be to just replace suspected sensors/parts and it ends up having no effect. Im guessing it should be easy to test the water sensor, but maybe more tricky to do the lambda. Also very worried as the lambda removal is pretty much engine out! Is that the kind of thing that would be working and driving one minute then nothing the next? I do seem to have a major drain on the battery when the ignition is off so trying to find what that is too.
 
ok, im glad i know it can be done. Just need to confirm some of the ins and outs of how to make it work like that. Sorry for being such a pain!
 
MaccyD said:
Heres a short video of it actually running and driving! After i had been out i parked it up and it just wouldnt stay running the following day, other than a couple seconds after firing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jndtAaa2yiI&feature=plcp
Click to expand...


Sounds like you've got a loose connection somewhere, maybe the 12v supply to the injectors?

You need to hook up your tacho, one of the igniters will have an extra wire, connect this wire to your car's tacho.
 
ahhhh, yeah i do have a spare wire that says 'ignition amp' thats in my footwell lol. Figured it was for that. Could never get the 1JZ to work with the darn Nissan tacho so i figured this would be the same.
 
And yeh, im praying its a loose connection, its be nice to just find the fault and fix it. To be honest, ive had no chance as ive been out of the country for work and its pitch dark when i normally get in anyway so it only leaves the weekends to fix things. I will be giving the whole thing a very thorough checkover all day saturday so with any luck ill be back in business by this time tomorrow. HOPEFULLY i wont be asking a load of questions again becse of more problems. Or pulling my hair out becauyse i cant diagnose the fault
 
Quickie, anyone know the resistance values of the GAUGE water temp sensor on the 1UZFE, my Nissan one isnt in a suitable position so i just want to use the Lexus sensor and account for whether it will read high or low. The important bit is just to know that the stat is controlling the temperature correctly.

What im hoping to match is the NIssan values of:

60 degrees = 70-90 ohms
100 degrees = 21-24 ohms

All i can think to do is see how close they are when its cold, then waiting for the stat to open so they are the same value again (almost) and measure it again
 
KISS... Pillar mount gauge pod. Fit aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauges then look like everyone else.. End of problem
 
Something else im going to try. As i dont have the fuel computer thing, im going to remove the fuel pressure sensor and run the FPR direct into the intake manifold as shown on bushwhackers engine picture on page 5.

As for gauges, pass. Ill use the Lexus one for now then remove the housing and rill and tap a thread to match the nissan sensor during my reshell.

Compression tested engine, going from passenger side (rhd) bulkhead side in a clockwise direction they are as follows:

198
215
205
212
195
202
210
207
 
Ok, more information, i have disconnected the EGR, evap and fuel pressure sensors.

The evap was removed, and throttle body take-off blanked.
The EGR is left in poisition
The fuel pressure sensor has been removed, i have then take the vac line on the FPR and put it directly onto the intake plenum.

I THINK my TPS is borked. The following are resistance readings i got.

According to my workshop manual pin 1-3 with valve FULLY OPEN should be 2.8kohm - 8ohm
I get 3.8kohm - 3.3kohm (full adjustment on sensor) , this is out the top of the range according to the manual.

Pin 1-3 with valve FULLY CLOSED should be 0.2kohm - 0.8 ohm
I get 0.5kohm - 1kohm, again, this is out the to of the range

Pin 1-2 with valve FULLY CLOSED should be less than 0.5kohm
I get 0.5ohm, which is correct i suppose, but low

Pin 1-2 with valve FULLY OPEN should be 1Mohm or higher
My multimeter goes out of its range (2Mohm) as i open the throttle.

Following from that, the idle control valve seems a little out but close:

Pin 5-4 and 5-6 should be 10-30ohm
I get 42.5ohm an 42.3ohm respectively

Pin 2-1 and 2-3 should be 10-30ohm
I get 41.8ohm and 42.6ohm respectively

Ok, sorry for the essay, would be great if people could:
1 - Confirm my target values are correct for a 96 LS400 1UZ
2 - Confirm that TPS and ISC valve are both buggered
3 - Confirm that the anges i mentioned at the start are all good and it will run ok.

Thank you so much for all the help, this is probably the best forum im a member of for tech help, its great!
 
So i turned up another document outlining the resistance values, it transpires i am within spec for the TPS. Thats annoying because now i dont know what the problem is again.
 
Right, so ive got the car driving again which is good. Back to some old problems though. The idle is now just quite high (1300rpm), rather than the hunting i was experiencing before (when warm). But as mentioned before my ISCV is showing out of range resistance values. I will endeavour to do a diagnostics test to see if that throws anything up.

The other problem is i still dont seem to have full power, only the bottom end of the throttle seems to work, at least no change in acceleration past about 20% throttle. So yeah, gradually getting there. As usual any input is greatly apreciated, hoping to have it properly working some time soon lol.
 
Hi guys, i know i keep asking alot so sorry for the spam. Im hoping someone could shed a little light on something ive come across during my searchings on the internet and it says this:

... (Core Wire:A must connect) -E2 Common Sensor Earth, NOT the same as E1,this is the sensor earth common wire, it is used only by sensors and must NOT be earthed to the engine, if you do that the signal noise will be so high the engine will run poorly at random places, it will over fuel, and under fuel

So im left a bit confused, i may have done this correctly already, but i have the E2 wire earthed to the chassis im pretty sure, im not sure what else i can do? Also, there is a big bundle of common earth wires from the sensors, i assume thats ok to earth the chassis too or am i getting confused somewhere along the line?

Any help greatly apreciated.
 
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