Project Thread Toyota Land Cruiser Turbo
- Thread starter jibbby
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I also dont see the T3 on this big of an engine. Even if it has a hybrid compressor on it. In that heavy of a truck, with that big of an engine, you will pass the efficiency range listed on the flow chart before you know what happened. Yes it will spool really quick, but the air will quickly overheat. Kind of like having that roots blower.
Guys, I know your all into this turbo talk but I have not been responding to the thread lately because I have been spending the last few days reading up on Supercharging the Toyota engines, and I am impressed with the performance and liability of the newer trd stuff... Lots of LandCruiser and Lexus tech threads on this forum. You guys should check out some of these involved turbo and supercharger threads they are very informatative...... It's not as good as this forum of course, but it does have some good airforced induction tech talk that this forum does not have yet..
http://www.tundrasolutions.com
tundrasolutions.com
tundrasolutions.com
as you can all see I am still struggling with the linking... I need a cup of coffee and try agian....
http://www.tundrasolutions.com
tundrasolutions.com
tundrasolutions.com
as you can all see I am still struggling with the linking... I need a cup of coffee and try agian....
Pro
New Member
you're missing the http://www. bit.
Aaron, much thanks for the linking tip, and just for your infomation I am missing out alot of things.:07: . Like the complete knowledge to make an air forced induction package work on both my cars. I can imagine reading and doing are two different stories when first trying this kind of turbo or supercharger setup.. I have faith in my skills and creativity to get the job done so on that note I say "Nothing ventured nothing gained".......:439:
Ok
all the parts are ordered and few parts are coming in:
turbo
intercooler
wastegate
gaskets
v-band flange and clamp
lots of silicone couplers and clamps
stainless lines and fittings to an from the turbo
miles of aluminized mandrel bends in many sizes
weld els (supra manifold far too short to modify)
a/f ratio gauge
boost gauge
welding bungs
turbo and wastegate flanges and gaskets
vacume lines
Im hoping to start this weekend and do a marathon build:
A few issues still bother me. I ordered a big K&N cone filter as I think the oe filter box just is going to get too much in the way and will get too hot. The MAF meter will need to be relocated which will entail lengthening the wires to it by saudering in longer ones. Will lengthening the wires affect how the MAF meter reads?
Next. I have worked out the down pipe from the turbo which uses a vband clamp and have adapters to take the 4 inch turbo exhaust down to the 2'' oe exhaust. I have a new weld in o2 sensor bong and plan on completely removing the 1st CAT but leaving the second. Assuming I a know shady california state employee who will let the cruiser pass inspection with illegal mods, will it pass smog with only 1 Cat?
Next. I wasnt planning on using a fancy stainless flex joint from the downpipe to the rest of exhaust but instead using just a simple exhaust joint (smaller pipe into bigger pipe) will i be ok without the expensive stainless flex joint?
Next. how have people plumbed in the Rising boost rate fuel pressure regulators? the inport scene can purchase cheap regulators that screw right in the fuel rail in place of the oe regulator.
Ill neede to have a custom ac line made to go from the firewall to the compressor as the oe pipe is in the way. i have a guy ill be taking it to today
I need to run an oil return from the turbo so Im going to need to tap the upper oil pan with either 1/2 npt or 3/8 npt (ive got the fittings to do either) I know safari does this upper pan tap and I know where they tap it-i've read that the pan is thin so Im a little worried I wont be able to make a good thread. If I cant seat a good thread with the tap i have purchased some weld on bungs (3/8 or 1/2 npt) so I can weld to the pan. But then I will need to remove the upper pan. If I really wanted to take short cuts do you think the motor would catch fire if I welded the bung to the pan with it still on the motor? (just kidding) I know the import boys use JB weld but I feel uneasy about this.
Lastly I am a little worried about how I will bolting my home made turbo manifold to the oe manifold. I orderd new oe gaskets and bolts for the connection. The gasket between the oe exhaust manifolds (remember there are 2 as the manifold is a 2 piece-one for each set of 3 cylinders) are these metal (i hope they are stainless) donut things about 1/8 inch thick by 1/8 inch deep. (looks like a big wedding ring) I hope they hold up to the heat. I also purchased the gasket and bolts securing the oe manifold to the head in case I have to abondon my sub manifold idea in place of building an entire new log manifold . I have also considered welding my sub manifold directly to the oe manifolds-that is certainly a commitment.
all the parts are ordered and few parts are coming in:
turbo
intercooler
wastegate
gaskets
v-band flange and clamp
lots of silicone couplers and clamps
stainless lines and fittings to an from the turbo
miles of aluminized mandrel bends in many sizes
weld els (supra manifold far too short to modify)
a/f ratio gauge
boost gauge
welding bungs
turbo and wastegate flanges and gaskets
vacume lines
Im hoping to start this weekend and do a marathon build:
A few issues still bother me. I ordered a big K&N cone filter as I think the oe filter box just is going to get too much in the way and will get too hot. The MAF meter will need to be relocated which will entail lengthening the wires to it by saudering in longer ones. Will lengthening the wires affect how the MAF meter reads?
Next. I have worked out the down pipe from the turbo which uses a vband clamp and have adapters to take the 4 inch turbo exhaust down to the 2'' oe exhaust. I have a new weld in o2 sensor bong and plan on completely removing the 1st CAT but leaving the second. Assuming I a know shady california state employee who will let the cruiser pass inspection with illegal mods, will it pass smog with only 1 Cat?
Next. I wasnt planning on using a fancy stainless flex joint from the downpipe to the rest of exhaust but instead using just a simple exhaust joint (smaller pipe into bigger pipe) will i be ok without the expensive stainless flex joint?
Next. how have people plumbed in the Rising boost rate fuel pressure regulators? the inport scene can purchase cheap regulators that screw right in the fuel rail in place of the oe regulator.
Ill neede to have a custom ac line made to go from the firewall to the compressor as the oe pipe is in the way. i have a guy ill be taking it to today
I need to run an oil return from the turbo so Im going to need to tap the upper oil pan with either 1/2 npt or 3/8 npt (ive got the fittings to do either) I know safari does this upper pan tap and I know where they tap it-i've read that the pan is thin so Im a little worried I wont be able to make a good thread. If I cant seat a good thread with the tap i have purchased some weld on bungs (3/8 or 1/2 npt) so I can weld to the pan. But then I will need to remove the upper pan. If I really wanted to take short cuts do you think the motor would catch fire if I welded the bung to the pan with it still on the motor? (just kidding) I know the import boys use JB weld but I feel uneasy about this.
Lastly I am a little worried about how I will bolting my home made turbo manifold to the oe manifold. I orderd new oe gaskets and bolts for the connection. The gasket between the oe exhaust manifolds (remember there are 2 as the manifold is a 2 piece-one for each set of 3 cylinders) are these metal (i hope they are stainless) donut things about 1/8 inch thick by 1/8 inch deep. (looks like a big wedding ring) I hope they hold up to the heat. I also purchased the gasket and bolts securing the oe manifold to the head in case I have to abondon my sub manifold idea in place of building an entire new log manifold . I have also considered welding my sub manifold directly to the oe manifolds-that is certainly a commitment.
stevechumo
Active Member
Dusty,
You might want to post some pics so that we'll know where you are. The pictures are better for us to share our knowledge.
You might want to post some pics so that we'll know where you are. The pictures are better for us to share our knowledge.
A turbocharger is load dependent. Go drive a factory turbocharged car and watch what happens when you go uphill, as you are saying. Boost. Without even opening the throttle.
I also dont see the T3 on this big of an engine. Even if it has a hybrid compressor on it. In that heavy of a truck, with that big of an engine, you will pass the efficiency range listed on the flow chart before you know what happened. Yes it will spool really quick, but the air will quickly overheat. Kind of like having that roots blower.
turboandrew
Member
The t3/t4 turbo Dusty bought has ~75% effciency at 2.0 pressure ratio and nowhere near the max rpm, flowing 30 lbs/HR. That flow rate is good for easily 300 HP at the wheels, probably 360 HP at the flywheel. It can also do 35 lbs/HR at 72% effciency and still not be spinning at max RPM. Nick, based on the compressor maps, can you explain why this turbo is not good enough?
And FYI, I have seen single T3 exhaust housings, even as small as .64 A/R flow enough for 450 HP...
And FYI, I have seen single T3 exhaust housings, even as small as .64 A/R flow enough for 450 HP...
Actually the turbo I baught is a pure t4. I have been working hard last few days. please see this
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=88793
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=88793
if you want to see the truck look here
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78597&highlight=bumper
and here
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=65005&highlight=bumper
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78597&highlight=bumper
and here
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=65005&highlight=bumper
stevechumo
Active Member
You can actually load up the pics on this forum. The max capacity is 100 kb each post. So if you have 3 pics at 30 kb/pic, you can load 3 pics at once. And then, you can post other pics for a second post. That way, we can see the pics immediately and don't have to register on the other forum to view the pics.
stevechumo
Active Member
Dusty,
The mild-steel pipes that you use are excellent material for turbo manifold. They'll last a lot longer than stainless steel or thin mild steel pipes. They look similar like thick stainless steel though. I used these steam pipes a lot and they worked wonderful. They'll last similar like cast manifolds. The design is not bad. However, there's a a few spots that you'll need to strengthen more than other spots. I've pointed out in the pic.
The mild-steel pipes that you use are excellent material for turbo manifold. They'll last a lot longer than stainless steel or thin mild steel pipes. They look similar like thick stainless steel though. I used these steam pipes a lot and they worked wonderful. They'll last similar like cast manifolds. The design is not bad. However, there's a a few spots that you'll need to strengthen more than other spots. I've pointed out in the pic.
stevechumo
Active Member
You can double-weld those spots, and fabricate some kinds of brackets to hold the manifold to the block. Double-welding those spots are good enough. Make sure to leave just enough room to tighten the studs. The manifold will get so hot and it will glow like a burning charcoal, which means it gets softer. It's very normal to glow like that. And if some spots are weak, then a leak might occur usually from the top when the turbo/manifold weight got pulled down by gravity or engine vibration.
mycarhasposessedme
New Member
When welded components crack it is always next to the weld not the weld itself.
Double welding in my opinion will not strengthen that manifold.
No amount of welding will make up for a bad design.
Try do design your manifold to minimise leverage acting against it from the turbo.
Brackets will help, but a better design would be even better.
What you have built will work, but there's not that much more effort in making something that works really well.
Search the net and look for other manifolds that folks have made, it will give you a lot of good ideas as to how the finished item should look.
I gues it really depends on what you want.
Still a comendable effort though, I applaud people who have a go at things rather than those who just talk.
Cheers
Trev
Double welding in my opinion will not strengthen that manifold.
No amount of welding will make up for a bad design.
Try do design your manifold to minimise leverage acting against it from the turbo.
Brackets will help, but a better design would be even better.
What you have built will work, but there's not that much more effort in making something that works really well.
Search the net and look for other manifolds that folks have made, it will give you a lot of good ideas as to how the finished item should look.
I gues it really depends on what you want.
Still a comendable effort though, I applaud people who have a go at things rather than those who just talk.
Cheers
Trev
I have been reading and talking with the 4x4 pro's in my area recently about these types of 4x4 AFI applications. The majority of pro's say supercharging is more effecient for 4x4's plain and simple...
Reason being the Supercharger makes power by forcing more air into your engine much like the Dusty's exhaust driven turbo does.. The difference is that the compressor is driven directly by the engine rather then the exhaust gasses on a supercharger setup. More of a power drain on the engine that is running a supercharger then a turbo...but..
Advantages and disadvantages between the two - The Supercharger as mentioned above takes power to drive the compressor directly from the engine. A turbocharger on the other hand uses waste exhaust gasses to drive the compressor which makes the turbo application more effecient in most cases except 4x4ing and top fuel drags...
But the supercharger has a few advantages as well...Here it goes - There is no lag time period, no spool up time. Boost is always available, and as I mentioned before in this thread that is important in 4x4'ing... With a turbocharger you have to wait until the engine starts to produce enough exhaust gas to spin up the turbo to get some boost...
The ultimate BHP, like the top fuel drags with the 4500-5000bhp are supercharging and is the only way to go!!! Reason being when these dragsters go from 0 - 300mph in 4 to 5 seconds a turbo application would still be winding up or the spool up time just won't cut it... This same theory applies to 4x4ing where immediate throttle response and torque is the best...
Not to defer from Dusty's turbo plan, I think it is awesome and will work just fine, and I also applaud the effort... but again the superchargers are the best option for 4x4ing in general and are of course more costly.... I am still learning but this is what I have come up with so far...and I am going in the supercharger direction...but wish Dusty all the good fortunes of his project, and I will be watching closely and can't what to see Dusty's final results.. Any thoughts on this?
Reason being the Supercharger makes power by forcing more air into your engine much like the Dusty's exhaust driven turbo does.. The difference is that the compressor is driven directly by the engine rather then the exhaust gasses on a supercharger setup. More of a power drain on the engine that is running a supercharger then a turbo...but..
Advantages and disadvantages between the two - The Supercharger as mentioned above takes power to drive the compressor directly from the engine. A turbocharger on the other hand uses waste exhaust gasses to drive the compressor which makes the turbo application more effecient in most cases except 4x4ing and top fuel drags...
But the supercharger has a few advantages as well...Here it goes - There is no lag time period, no spool up time. Boost is always available, and as I mentioned before in this thread that is important in 4x4'ing... With a turbocharger you have to wait until the engine starts to produce enough exhaust gas to spin up the turbo to get some boost...
The ultimate BHP, like the top fuel drags with the 4500-5000bhp are supercharging and is the only way to go!!! Reason being when these dragsters go from 0 - 300mph in 4 to 5 seconds a turbo application would still be winding up or the spool up time just won't cut it... This same theory applies to 4x4ing where immediate throttle response and torque is the best...
Not to defer from Dusty's turbo plan, I think it is awesome and will work just fine, and I also applaud the effort... but again the superchargers are the best option for 4x4ing in general and are of course more costly.... I am still learning but this is what I have come up with so far...and I am going in the supercharger direction...but wish Dusty all the good fortunes of his project, and I will be watching closely and can't what to see Dusty's final results.. Any thoughts on this?
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