Taking Heads Off - Any special tools required?

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twisty_toy94

New Member
Hey All,

Am halfway thorugh pulling the motor to bits to get the heads off....Just got to pull the timing belt stuff off, intake manifold, and cam covers, and they should be right to come off.

I'll be pulling them tonight, but I just thought I'd check if there is any special tools rerquired to get them off?

This is the first time I've done it, so any other info would be great too....I've got a mechanic mate helping me out, but he mainly works on desiels....


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Thanks
 
Twisty,

If I were you I would mark the valve shims as to which valve they came from so you can put them back in the same place.

I'd remove the cams (very carefully) and remove, wipe and using a marking pan put a note on the shim.

If you mix them up you will spend a lot of time a) measuring each shim and b) measuring each valve's lash to put the shim back in the correct place. To do all that you WILL need some expensive tools.
 
LOL at Rod there - took the words out of my mouth there re: the shims!!!

write what cylinder is which, left or right and inlet or exhaust.

(ie 1lI, 1lE, 1rI, 1rE) 1lI - cylinder 1, left inlet shim <> 1rI - cylinder 1, right inlet shim and so on and so forth.
 
Ok then....I'm a little lost......I wasn't planning on touching any of that....well kinda not anyway....

I need to replace the headgaskets, and was just going to pay someone to check out the heads for me while they are off, and get them to do what they do....

I got a full genuine VRS kit from Toyota for $460....which includes some stuff to do with the valves...(I'm a virgin to all this head stuff)....so I should still mark the shims etc.. before giving the heads to the head guys??
 
Might as well tell you's the whole story too.......I didn't run coolant for 12 months :bigeyes: (yeah I know)....The radiator we first used was just to get the engine complianced....my new radiator was supposed to be done 2-3 months later.....but my mate kept dragging it out, then soon enough 12 months had passed.

Then just before xmas I ran some Alfloc Radiator Cleaner before installing my new radiator with Toyota (Red) Coolant....The cleaner seemed to work well, but after using it, the overflow bottle would be emptied in about a week of driving.....Then last weekend it started to overheat after about 5 mins driving. Running the engine revealed heaps of bubbles in the radiator, and the water would foam up too, like the radiator had raybies (spelling) or was OD'ing on drugs or something. When I dropped the coolant, it was a grey colour, and it also seemed to have oil/petrol on it as it made those cool rainbow paterns....

Everyone I spoke to was pretty certian it will be the headgasket, so thats why it's all coming off tonight.....
 
Best of luck on your job, just wanted to say if possible post more pictures if you can for others to learn like me, and that is one clean engine bay you got their...and a 4 runner with an IUZ.. sweet!!!!!

Are those stock cams you are running on the IUZ? How's your lowend torque while four wheeling and climbing if the cams are stock?
 
Twisty, you've probably gathered by now that some of the head bolts are under the cams, so you will need to remove them.
Another thing you will need to do is lock the scissor gear that drives the exhaust cam, just thread a bolt through it, as it is spring loaded.
There is a sequence to follow when undoing the head bolts , are you aware of this?
Cheers
 
Yeah found out we had to remove the cams to get the heads off when we got to that part....what you's had all said made sense then.....

Anyway, we got the heads off, which wasn't too bad a job, but I still wouldn't like to have to do it again, and am not looking forward to putting it back together.....

The headgaskets were perfect, so that isn't the problem.....so will get quotes to have the heads pressure tested tomorrow....not sure how much that is, but if it works out too dear, I'll just get another motor.

Another thing is the oil smelt awful....the motor was due for its 5000km service...but I've never smelt oil so bad?

From what we could see there were no signs of any corrosion either....

The water pump was stuffed but.....and one of the exhaust valves wasn't pink like all the others....not sure why that is?? but will find out I guess....

Some pics....

My mate Luke....the brains behind the operation....
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Cams ready to pull off....
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The cams gone...
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The engine bay with the heads off...
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I guess this is why it misses a bit at idle? See how the top left valve is grey, while all the others are pink? anyone know why this would be?
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The other head.......
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jibby said:
Are those stock cams you are running on the IUZ? How's your lowend torque while four wheeling and climbing if the cams are stock?
Yeah Jibby, am running the stock cams...Low end torque is fine for the offroading I do in it (its more than what I had though the whole rev range with the old motor), but the engine braking for steep descents isn't as good as the old V6.
 
maybe a few head bolts were a little loose allowing water to just bypass the gasket...?

regardless, it is odd though considering the colour of the rest of the valves.

was it hard getting the cams out? are they still under tension from the valve springs?
 
I use to own a 4runner just like yours a while ago and for a very short time. Never drove it offroading, Why? because the v6 original engine was just too weak. Especially in comparison to the IUZ. Being that the 4runner is so light in weight, I could see you having good power thru the entire power band, and in all gears.. The cams probably wouldn't make a difference regardless. Your braking suffers because of your additional front end weight from the IUZ... swap. Which I am sure you already knew.. I love the conversion anyway.

I am suprised that the IUZ fit in that V6 engine bay and the stock tranny can handle the IUZ.., also those must be some flat or tight custom headers you got going on under that hood... Outstanding.
 
pro240c said:
maybe a few head bolts were a little loose allowing water to just bypass the gasket...?

regardless, it is odd though considering the colour of the rest of the valves.

was it hard getting the cams out? are they still under tension from the valve springs?
The cams were easy to get out.....there was a little tention on them when loosing the clamps that hold them down onto the valve springs, but they don't bounce off or anything when you undo them....

Priced getting the heads checked out, the cheapest I got was $210 to just pressure and crack test the bare heads...(I had to dissamble) and others wanted between $500-$800 to do everything, still depening on what was wrong....add the VRS kit onto this, and a new water pump, and I am way over the cost of a new motor.

So I talked to Scott at Venom and he has organised me another front sump 1UZ with accesories and a recently replaced timing belt for $950.....So I'll head down there monday morning and pick it up, then install the new motor next saturday....
 
twisty_toy94 said:
So I talked to Scott at Venom and he has organised me another front sump 1UZ with accesories and a recently replaced timing belt for $950.....So I'll head down there monday morning and pick it up, then install the new motor next saturday. ...
Gday, will you be still investigating what happened?
yeah for the price of an engine, its not easy to justify a rebuild.
something i have said all along.
 
Yeah, and I think I have found the problem....looks like it was just a blown headgasket.....and its in the corner where that one grey exhuast valve was....

I'm pulling the old motor out tomorrow and I'll get some pics and post them up and see what you guys think....
 
I say bore the engine out while it is apart, get some forged pistons and hotrod that BABY!!!!!!!
 


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