Supra TT Big Brake Upgrade for SC400

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
jibby said:
There is a tiny bit of play at the center hub with my Supra rotors and I think Lex is right. It's a much tighter fit with my other stock sized rotors and they don't vibrate... I have a plan and I will let you guys know how it goes in a couple of days.:Thinkingo
In that case, then I guess regular Supra TT rotors won't work without modifications. And David is perfectly right.
 
Steve, looking it over closely I David is very right.... I am hoping our adapter/wheel spacer place in Canoga Park should be able to help me out with this situation. I need the 5/16 spacer anyway to perfectly clear the caliper. So after changing out my Y pipes tomarrow I will head over to Canoga. I will bring the old guy my rotor and rim for hub measurements and suggestions. I think together and with all his machines, we will be able to figure something out together...Did you know that old guy use to be a nascar drive when it first started? He is smarter then you would think. Forgot to tell you that one..

The crapy thing about this is I am not looking forward to is this changing out to longer studs deal, and paying for yet another 2 wheel spacers. Going for the discount please approach with the Old guy, wish me luck he likes me.. Steve I think you said the IS lugs grip extra threads do you think those will work on a 5/16"s spacers and not need the longer studs?
 
Hey John, Why don't you buy the modify set like david suggested and sell your supra rotors right now on ebay or something. You might break even or loose a bit of money. IMO i dont see why you need to go to so much trouble to modify this rotors to make it fit. But that is just my thinking. Good luck buddy.
 
jibby said:
Steve, looking it over closely I David is very right.... I am hoping our adapter/wheel spacer place in Canoga Park should be able to help me out with this situation. I need the 5/16 spacer anyway to perfectly clear the caliper. So after changing out my Y pipes tomarrow I will head over to Canoga. I will bring the old guy my rotor and rim for hub measurements and suggestions. I think together and with all his machines, we will be able to figure something out together...Did you know that old guy use to be a nascar drive when it first started? He is smarter then you would think. Forgot to tell you that one..

The crapy thing about this is I am not looking forward to is this changing out to longer studs deal, and paying for yet another 2 wheel spacers. Going for the discount please approach with the Old guy, wish me luck he likes me.. Steve I think you said the IS lugs grip extra threads do you think those will work on a 5/16"s spacers and not need the longer studs?
Hey James,
Tst, tst..I don't know what to say for your troubles, buddy. I just feel bad for you. I don't know about the IS300 lug nuts. I'm only using the ARP studs made for the IS300 on the rear. They're freaking long. My cousin just bought them for $64/10 studs shipped to his door. I had to pay $110/10 studs with pick-up half a year ago. The price has gone down. But there's an alternative way to it. Kragen Auto has the studs that are 1/4" longer than the SC studs. They're made for some Toyota or Lexus, and I forgot which. So you may bring the stock SC and compare. Each stud is only $2. It should be perfect for your 5/16" spacers. I'm using 10 of Kragen studs for the front with 1/4" spacers. I have spacers all 4 corners. The hassle is to knock out the studs. How thick are your current spacers?
 
I dont want to scare every CL members with Supra TT Brake conversion. The standard supra rotors work but dont work well because of the play.
 
xirforever said:
I thought it was the other way around?
I thought the slots were for removing the gasses and the holes were just for cooling.
Thats why you see porsches and other cars rolling on drilled rotors and not slotted.
Nope. Slots were for getting rid of pad dust and dirt on rally cars, and have been incorporated into other realms. They still remove material and contribute to heat stress and cracks.

Porsches actually still use holes (and BTW, they are cast into the blanks, not drilled later) for water evacuation in endurance racing. They understand that the rotors will still crack, so they change them after every event.

In any case, crossdrilling is only done for looks on most cars, and will not contribute to better stopping on any car used on the street, and will contribute to cracked rotors on the track (and on the street after enough heat/cool cycles have elapsed).

http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm

Again, the things that REALLY stop your car, are the tires, and changing them will reduce stopping distances and change how much control you have.

http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm

crackedpowerslot.jpg

DSCN0266a.jpg
 
jibby said:
I am not going to disagree with you about your opinions on Crossdrilling, but from my experiences with driving on my stock sc400 rotors for a year then switched to drilled and slotted rotors for a year after that, I can honestly say I noticed an increase in braking power and have had no problems and only positives to report with using the crossdrilled and slotted rotors.
Yes, switching to brand new parts after having old parts that had heat cycling, etc will improve your braking. Had you even replaced your old parts with brand new OEM parts, you would have noticed an improvement, also. If you replaced your pads with upgraded pads, you would have noticed even more improvement. But, there is NOTHING in crossdrilling that will increase your braking power. Seriously, you don't want to start arguing with racers or engineers on this point. Read the links in my last post for more, real info.



ChrisV can I ask you why does Brembo still put out drilled and slotted rotors for newer sports car and some even from dealer sold new from factory?
Because it looks like a race car. Simply put. Why do a LOT of ricer parts get sold? I mean, you've seen the fake BOVs, fake intercoolers, fake exhaust tips. We've seen factory cars with fake aero parts (like fake scoops, and the like). Hell, BMW's M3 had FAKE a rear underbody diffuser! Why would a respected performance company put a fake poart like that on their performance car???

And to be honest, if youy look around, Brembo doesn't sell crossdrilled rotors for street cars. You can buy aftermarket modified Brembo blanks, drilled by another company.

Read the links I just gave.

There is no empirical data that shows that cross drilled rotors are better than stock or OE equivalents. None whatsoever. Manufacturers have been known to embellish claims about their products. If you don't believe this then you are a sucker and I have a bridge I would like to sell you. The claims they make in the lines you quoted are vague and uninformative. They say things like "increased cooling" and "better brake response" but they don't qualify those statements with data of any kind. Where do they give percent increases or stopping distance decrease numbers? Yes it would be different on every car but they could still do tests and compile a median average and give a percent. That is how statistics and sampling work. It is the same principal that allows 1000 people to be surveyed and a public opinion of an issue can be accurate within 8% for the whole nation. Sampling rates my friend.

All manufacturers do it - even the most reputable ones. It isn't lying or uncommon. The claims are too broad to say they are false. That is how marketing works.

Many of the top brake manufactures have drilled rotors available. Customers want it and it looks "cool." ALL of them acknowledge that the drilling doesn't help, and are prone to cracking.

From StopTech:

Q: Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?

A: STOPTECH provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street use they will generally work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

From Wilwood:

Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.

Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.

From Rennsport:

Porsche used cross-drilled rotors with mixed success. The Zimmerman rotors used on the 930 Turbo brakes were very soft and crack prone, even though the holes were chamfered. The later Brembo rotors will also show some wear when used with most performance brake pads. Some of the best rotors in the world are made in Britain by AP and Alcon. Those rotors, when properly adapted, seem to be superior to the Brembo ones in terms of wear and crack resistance. All drilled rotors will crack sooner or later if overheated. Slotted rotors are more durable in this regard however they are heavier. One reason that most large iron rotors are cross-drilled is to save some unsprung weight. Since nice big, light, carbon rotors cost $1000 each, saving some weight without bankruptcy, is important. Plus, carbon rotors possess very little friction until they reach 500-600 degrees F.




If they were not safe and reliable why would they still be selling?.
Nitorus kits can be unsafe, too. Yet they are still on the market. A LOT of aftermarket parts might be unsafe if used on the street, yet they are still being sold. Cheap seats that can fold up in a crash, wheels that have the centers break out of them, etc.

You probably don't remember the issue with the 13" Brembo rotors on the factory Mustang Cobra in '99, but they were prone to catastrophic failure.

Think about this... How does drilling material from a cast part NOT weaken it? Think metallurgy and chemistry.


They can't be all that bad in combination with a good set of brake pads, I am living proof of that?
Again, the pads themselves would be responsible for that improvement. Had you used new OEM rotors and those pads, the end result would have been the same. You changed multiple things from old, worn parts, and are ascribing the changes you feel to the wrong components. It really is as simple as that.
 
Chris V - Recieved and understood....like I said I have heard this before about the rotors but really didn't take it with a grain of salt. I just don't understand why a manufacturer of one of the finest sports car made would install something like the drilled and slotted rotors in the Porsche's if they were inferior?... That does not make sense to me, especially on a $100k well engineered performance car like the Porche's and others that reach really fast speeds and require a fine braking system. It's hard for me to believe they would compromise preformance and liability for looks in the rotors? I am not going to argue with the experts but I think that something is a miss here.
 
Guys, I got the plan to solve this problem and it isn't that costly. I don't need to re-sell these rotors on Ebay just yet, even though that is what I should probably do. Even though these rotors will shake, crack, overheat and fail etc... I have reason to believe that with a percisely fitted adapter/spacer made perfectly to fit with the hub lip and rotor these rotors of mine will brake smoothly and safetly without vibration for years to come. I may be wrong but will post later with results..
 
As for the information that ChrisV gave, I agreed on some but disagreed on some.

First, I agreed that crossdrilled rotors are more prone to cracks, but that problem is for cheap and too-many-drilled-holes rotors. I agreed that drilled rotors are reduced in weight which causes cracks. However, with bigger rotors, that cracking is minimized because they still have the weight needed to sustain heat.

Second, Chris meant crossdrilled rotors are not benefitable for street use. That's only half true. They're necessary and not necessary for street use, and depending on how heavy the driver applies the brake. If the driver always drives at the exact speed limit, never tailgates...etc, any brake is the same to him. However, if he drives fast, has the need for speed, then crossdrilled rotors are really benefitable. They keep the rotors cool and thus are less prone to brake fade. For example, if the driver drives in L.A., San Francisco, or New York cities during rush hours, his brakes would get pretty hot. And that's when cross drilled rotors are really benefitable.

Third, I agreed with Chris that slotted rotors are less prone to cracks than drilled rotors and they're to release excessive water on the rotors, which can cause brake fade. But slotted rotors increase pad wear quickly and increase noise.

And I agree with John that if drilled/slotted rotors are dangerous, then expensive auto manufacturers will not install them. Period. They don't want to deal with law suits from those rich drivers, who can cause millions of dollars loss to the auto manufacturers.

My conclusion is that depending on how the driver is, using crossdrilled/slotted rotors should be considered carefully before using.
 
I can tell you this about the crossed and drilled rotors and that is that they are more prone to rust then the stock rotors... That is the only difference that I can see tell. I looked over my crossed and drilled rotors closely that I have been running on my car for a little over a year, and there is no evidence of cracking or any other type of flaw. I am a heavy braker as well.. Conclusion, I think they are good to go for street use....
 
stevechumo said:
However, with bigger rotors, that cracking is minimized because they still have the weight needed to sustain heat.
As the brake manufacturers stated, ALL crossdrilled brakes are prone to cracking.

They keep the rotors cool and thus are less prone to brake fade. For example, if the driver drives in L.A., San Francisco, or New York cities during rush hours, his brakes would get pretty hot. And that's when cross drilled rotors are really benefitable.
Um, no. In fact, there is NO way that crossdrilling helps the brakes cool anything. Period. Removing material from the brakes makes them heat up QUICKER, not slower. Removing material means there is less material to absorb heat from the pads. This is a metallurgical fact.

http://www.gagme.com/greg/911/slideshow.php?sect=index&fn=crackedrotors2.jpg

http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2c.html

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=PowerSlot&model=Pro+Stop+Rotor

And even there, they still state that the brakes outgass, which no modern brake pads do.

http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/load?t=powerslot/all_products.html&ajr_skey=0a42ef2e70004b140c21d1db2f0af6aa

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performance/brakes.htm

Check out that about halfway down the page (drilled vs slotted vs normal rotors)

From a brake engineer:

You don't understand the interaction between a rotor and the pads. Here is how it works. The friction between the pad and rotor is what causes you to convert energy, and then causes teh tires to stop. This friction converts your forward energy into heat (remember Einstein: Energy is neither created nor destroyed, it is converted). Now that heat is a bad thing. Yes it is bad for the rotors but it is a lot worse for the pads. A warped rotor will still stop the car - it will just feel like ****. Overheated pads however WILL NOT stop the car. It is here where the rotors secondary responsibility comes in. Its job now is to DISSIPATE the heat away from the pads and DISPERSE it through itself. Notice that DISSIPATE and DISPERSE are interchangeable? Once the heat is removed from the pad/surface area it is then removed. Notice where the removal falls on the list of duties? That's right - number 3. Here is the list again. Memorize it because I will be using it a lot in this post:

#1 Maintains a coefficient of friction with the pad to slow the forward inertia of the vehicle

#2 DISSIPATE the heat

#3 REMOVE the heat from the brake system

Let's look more in-depth at each step now shall we?

#1 Maintains a coefficient of friction with the pad to slow the forward inertia of the vehicle:
This one is pretty simple and self-explanatory. The rotor's surface is where the pads contact and generate friction to slow the vehicle down. Since it is this friction that causes the conversion of forward acceleration into deceleration (negative acceleration if you want) you ideally want as much as possible right? The more friction you have the better your stopping will be. This is reason #1 why BIGGER brakes are the best way to improve a vehicle's consistent stopping ability. More surface area on the pad and the rotor = more friction = better stopping. Does that make sense? Good. Let's move on.

#2 DISSIPATE The Heat:
Let's assume for a second that the vehicle in question is running with Hawk Blue pads on it. The brand doesn't really matter but that is what I am using as my example. They have an operating range of 400 degrees to 1100 degrees. Once they exceed that 1100 degree mark they fade from overheating. The pad material gets too soft to work effectively - glazing occurs. This means that a layer of crude glass forms on the surface of the pad. As we all know glass is very smooth and very hard. It doesn't have a very high coefficient of friction. This is bad - especially when I am coming down the back straight at VIR at 125MPH. Lucky for us the rotor has a job to do here as well. The rotor, by way of thermal tranfer DISSIPATES the heat throughout itself. This DISSIPATION lessens the amount of heat at the contact area because it is diluted throughout the whole rotor. The bigger the rotor the better here as well. The more metal it has the more metal the heat can be diluted into. Make sense? This isn't rocket science.

#3 REMOVE the heat from the brake system:
This is the step where the rotor takes the heat it DISSIPATED from the pads and gets rid of it for good. How does it do this? By radiating it to the surface - either the faces or inside the veins. It is here where cool air interacts with the hot metal to cool it off and remove the heat. Once again there is a reoccuring theme of "the bigger the better" here. The bigger the rotor, the more surface area it will have which means more contact with the cooling air surrounding it. Got it? Good.

Now let's look at why cross-drilling is a bad idea.

First - as we have already established, cross-drilling was never done to aid in cooling. Its purpose was to remove the worn away pad material so that the surfaces remained clean, and give a place for the gases created by heated asbestos a place to go. As we all know this doesn't have much of a purpose nowadays.

Next - In terms of cooling: Yes - x-drilling does create more areas for air to go through but remember - this is step 3 on the list of tasks. Let's look at how this affects steps 1 and 2. The drilling of the rotor removes material from the unit. This removal means less surface area for generating surface friction as well as less material to accept the DISSIPATED heat that was generated by the friction. Now because of this I want to optimize step one and 2 since those are the immediate needs. If it takes longer for the rotor to get rid of the heat it is ok. You will have a straight at some point where you can rest the brakes and let your cooling ducts do their job. My PRIMARY concern is making sure that my car slows down at the end of the straight. This means that the rotor needs to have as much surface as possible to generate as much friction as possible and it needs to DISSIPATE the resulting heat AWAY from the pads as quick as possible so they continue to work. In both cases x-drilling does nothing to help the cause.

Now let's talk about strength - and how x-drilled rotors lack it. This one is simple. Explain again just how drilling away material/structure from a CAST product DOES NOT weaken it? Since you are obviously a man of great knowledge and experience surely you have seen what can happen to a x-drilled rotor on track right? Yes it can happen to a non-drilled rotor as well but the odds are in your favor when pimpin' bling-bling drilled y0! Since you are also an expert on thermodynamics why not explain to the group what happens to a cast iron molecule when it is overheated. I will give you a little hint - the covalence bonds weaken. These bonds are what hold the molecules together boys and girls. You do the math - it adds up to fractures.

So why don't race teams use them if they are so much better? Consistency? Hmmmm . . . no. It is because of several factors actually. They are as follows but in no particular order:

- Less usable surface area for generating friction
- Less material to DISSIPATE the heat away from the pads
- Less reliable and they are a safety risk because of fatigue and stress resulting from the reduced material.
This is info from someone who depends on good brakes, and engineers good braking systems. Again, go back and follow my links.
 
And I agree with John that if drilled/slotted rotors are dangerous, then expensive auto manufacturers will not install them. Period. They don't want to deal with law suits from those rich drivers, who can cause millions of dollars loss to the auto manufacturers.
This is the predictable response from people who don't know cars very much. And every time this subject is brought up, and brake engineers and racers state what I have, some layperson says, "so why does Porsche have them if they are only for bling factor?" You really don't get it, do you? They KNOW they are more prone to cracking, and have stated as much. I've seen them crack. Driving as fast as the cars can go is dangerous, too, but they keep making them faster. The point is, again, on the street they provide NO benefit, and can be dangerous, and on the track they MIGHT provide a benefit in certain circumstances (i.e. standing water), but are changed after each event to make sure they don't fail. And remember, the Porsche factory ones (as well as the Z06 ones) are cast with the holes in them, so there is less chance of a stress crack forming from where they were drilled after the fact.

The ONLY reason to use them on the street is the mad blingin' factor, but do not use them in any serious performance application, ESPECIALLY ones that have been drilled AFTER the fact into cast rotors! At least the FACTORY ones are cast with the holes IN them, so they are at least designed to last a LITTLE longer than aftermarket ones.

In any event I can tell you that the pieces installed on the GT2 are significantly different than the stock blanks that are drilled, re-badged and sold to kids as "performance" items.

Again, even top manufacturers like BMW use fake parts on thier performance cars to make them look fast. And cigarette manufacturers and gun manufacturers still make and sell THEIR products, even though they are known to be dangerous. Saying they wouldn't sell them if they weren't up to par is naievety.

Let me ask the converse of your Porsche question: "If cross drilled or slotted rotors are so great, why do very few manufacturers use them?"

Answer: "There never was an advantage to using these rotors on average street cars. There was, at one time, and advantage on high power race cars. This is no longer true. Making drilled rotors obsolete."

My conclusion is that depending on how the driver is, using crossdrilled/slotted rotors should be considered carefully before using.
True. And if all you want is that big vintage race car look, then crossdrilled is the way to go. But they will not let your car stop even one inch shorter over proper OEM non-drilled rotors.

This conversation comes up in a lot of places... http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=207758

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=480082

Especially read the last one.
 
ChrisV - We cannot argue with the facts. Your point is well taken... However, I do have a problem with your one comment "This is a predictable response from people that don't know cars very much". This is in regards to comparing the quality of parts that come on very expensive factory made cars... I tend to always compare that way, and I would like to think that I know more then just a little bit about cars. I know Stevechumo knows more then just a little bit about cars, turbo's etc.., so I think you may want to reconsider that comment.

These manufactures like Porsche spend millions of dollars developing the cars for performance and safety. They have experts design the cars, etc.. etc... and I would like to believe there is some truth to the contrary of what you say. Do these Manufactures like Porshce, Infinity, Etc. really want recalls or lawsuits occuring from poorly designed brakes? I am sorry but I still don't think so!!!! If we were talking about some of the inferior car manufactures then maybe, but Porsche? I guess what you are saying then is the makers of these fancy cars don't know much about cars. Toyota factory parts on their top end cars llike the Supra's seem to be top notch in mostly every area of the stock car parts, can you argue that? Over time improvements on cars will always be made from older cars, but newer cars with brakes, come on.....I still think the drilled and slotted rotors are not that bad for street use...Damn it!!! I say damn it because I am stuck with these drilled and slotted rotors and I ain't changing back....Crash and burn baby!!!!!
 
How is the brake and rotors going John? Did you manage to fix the problem??

P.S I think both you and ChrisV have a good point. Lets not argue guys.
 
I used to drive an LS400, and let me say, the brakes were horrible at best. I put some nice brake pads on there, and it did help, but it still wasnt good enough for me. So i got some slotted rotors, and they did help a lot, and i only got the front rotors this way and i noticed better stopping power. There is point to some of these, whether the nice look of drilled rotors like the MB SL65 uses or like me, just wanting better stopping power with the slotted. To each his own. I autocrossed on those brakes also on a number of events, never saw any cracking. Im not saying it couldnt happen of course, im just saying. Yes i know autocross speeds arent very high, but it adds to the point. Even if they do crack, big deal, get some new ones. It wont be the end of the world and you cant say you werent warned.

ChrisV said:
True. And if all you want is that big vintage race car look, then crossdrilled is the way to go. But they will not let your car stop even one inch shorter over proper OEM non-drilled rotors.

I would venture to say they are more expensive, and the OBVIOUS reason of many cars are not track oriented.

ChrisV said:
Let me ask the converse of your Porsche question: "If cross drilled or slotted rotors are so great, why do very few manufacturers use them?"
 
Thanks XIR, I too was saying that I changed out my stock OEM rotors to the same sized drilled and slotted rotors and noticed a good improvement in braking. That is why I bought these Supra rotors pre drilled and slotted. I am not trying to argue with anyone, but I know from my experienced the drilled and slotted rotors worked fantastic for me for one year. They clearly out performed the stock rotors..... Now I do agree with ChrisV that these D/S rotors may over time crack or fail faster then the stock OEM's. That is my take on it.....let's move on.


Supra brake swap update - I was testing the braking out on my previous setup today while figuring this Supra swap and I tell you these stock 2 piston brakes stop pretty damn well. I am almost considering not doing the Supra TT swap after all, if you can believe that. However, I will finish what I started. Today I having the new spacers made with a hub sleeve on one end and a tiny lip on the other to keep the Supra Rotors from dancing around. I returned my old adapters to the guy whom I purchased them from and he felt bad and gave me a good deal on these new ones being made. With the 5/16 spacers the wheel won't stick out, however I now need to change out to longer studs to mount the tires with the addition of the 5/16 spacer. There simply is not enough grab on the threads with the stock studs.. . Unbelievable.....:pat: This may take a while, to be continued.........
 
Let us know how the Supra brakes turn out. So you went back to the spacer shop? The owner is a very respectable man. Good luck!
 
Yeah Steve, this old timer is O.K. he use to be a race car drive back in his day, raced all over the world and grew up in the San Fernando Valley when it was just Orange Groves and not all Mexican families today.. He's a good guy and I will tell you he has gotten very rich off making these adaptors over the years, he is on EBAY, internet, and is doing high volume sales. A smart business man to go along with his trade. This guy has all the latest machinery to make and mold these adaptors and he said that is the key in his business along with the marketing efforts.. .....See ya
 


Back
Top