Project Thread Supercharged Supra
- Thread starter cribbj
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
The motor is done!
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile as I've been beavering away on my motor.
I picked up the motor nearly three months ago after a trusted shop had reassembled it, following a two year "build" of the long block by a well known engine builder. When I picked it up it looked as bad as the first time I'd seen it, when it arrived from the wreckers on a pallet. Dirty, greasy, rusty and corroded pretty much sums it up. The assembler had taken all the old parts, like the water pump, oil pump, manifolds, oil filter, etc. and had stuck them all back on without any cleaning. It looked soooo bad that I couldn't believe a $10K motor was hiding under all that......
Anyway, I collected my $10K POS motor, went home, and began disassembling it and ordering new parts. What I found when I really got into it was blue silicone oozing everywhere, even where OEM gaskets and O-rings were required, and just generally a really sloppy job of assembly.
Spent the next 2.5 months reassembling it with all new parts and SS fasteners on the exterior. There's just something about the look of clean aluminum and stainless fasteners that's very erotic to gearheads ;-)
So it's mechanically complete now, and this weekend I'll be starting the wiring. Actually the only wiring to be done is the (8) COP's to the EDIS8 ignition, and the starter, since I'm running a Holley carburetor on it for breakin.
So here's some pics.
This first one shows off the front of the motor pretty well, and the mods I made to the oil system for the remote oil filter. Those are -10AN fittings on that adaptor plate, and a -6AN fitting where the PCV valve usually goes. I'll be running a air/oil separator & catch can, so I've got fittings on both valve covers.
All of the front of the motor is from the 2UZ, ie oil pump, water pump, timing tensioner, timing idler, serp idler bracket, etc. The 2UZ parts fit just fine, and were less than half the price of the Lexus 1UZ parts.
The dampner is one of Andrew Mueller's (Richwood Technology) 8 rib pulleys. I've got the rest of the 8 rib set still in boxes, and they'll go on when the supercharger does.
Here's the opposite side, showing the -8AN fitting that I installed for my prelube system. My car sits for 4-6 weeks at a time, and I've always liked the idea of having a prelubrication cycle before firing the motor. We did it as a standard with our Caterpillar engines.
Here's a shot of the Holley carb. I used the standard Richwood top plate, and added another 3/8" plate to it, adapted for the Holley. You can see some of the machining marks we made on it trying to mill it flat, but the 3/8" plate kept bowing up in the middle due to the heat, even with wet grinding. Those fasteners on top of the 2" carb spacer go straight through and are sealed on top & bottom. The fasteners on the left & right side are sealed on the top only with special flanged sealing washers. We don't want any vacuum leaks on the dyno.
Here's a closer shot of those sealing washers. I think I should have bought stock in McMaster Carr before I started this. I've had deliveries nearly every day from them for the last two weeks. Nearly all the stainless fasteners in the M8 and M6 sizes are from them. The M8 studs, all the M10 fasteners and all the flange nuts were imported from the UK, as they simply don't exist here in the USA (at least not that I could find).
Haven't posted in this thread for awhile as I've been beavering away on my motor.
I picked up the motor nearly three months ago after a trusted shop had reassembled it, following a two year "build" of the long block by a well known engine builder. When I picked it up it looked as bad as the first time I'd seen it, when it arrived from the wreckers on a pallet. Dirty, greasy, rusty and corroded pretty much sums it up. The assembler had taken all the old parts, like the water pump, oil pump, manifolds, oil filter, etc. and had stuck them all back on without any cleaning. It looked soooo bad that I couldn't believe a $10K motor was hiding under all that......
Anyway, I collected my $10K POS motor, went home, and began disassembling it and ordering new parts. What I found when I really got into it was blue silicone oozing everywhere, even where OEM gaskets and O-rings were required, and just generally a really sloppy job of assembly.
Spent the next 2.5 months reassembling it with all new parts and SS fasteners on the exterior. There's just something about the look of clean aluminum and stainless fasteners that's very erotic to gearheads ;-)
So it's mechanically complete now, and this weekend I'll be starting the wiring. Actually the only wiring to be done is the (8) COP's to the EDIS8 ignition, and the starter, since I'm running a Holley carburetor on it for breakin.
So here's some pics.
This first one shows off the front of the motor pretty well, and the mods I made to the oil system for the remote oil filter. Those are -10AN fittings on that adaptor plate, and a -6AN fitting where the PCV valve usually goes. I'll be running a air/oil separator & catch can, so I've got fittings on both valve covers.
All of the front of the motor is from the 2UZ, ie oil pump, water pump, timing tensioner, timing idler, serp idler bracket, etc. The 2UZ parts fit just fine, and were less than half the price of the Lexus 1UZ parts.
The dampner is one of Andrew Mueller's (Richwood Technology) 8 rib pulleys. I've got the rest of the 8 rib set still in boxes, and they'll go on when the supercharger does.
Here's the opposite side, showing the -8AN fitting that I installed for my prelube system. My car sits for 4-6 weeks at a time, and I've always liked the idea of having a prelubrication cycle before firing the motor. We did it as a standard with our Caterpillar engines.
Here's a shot of the Holley carb. I used the standard Richwood top plate, and added another 3/8" plate to it, adapted for the Holley. You can see some of the machining marks we made on it trying to mill it flat, but the 3/8" plate kept bowing up in the middle due to the heat, even with wet grinding. Those fasteners on top of the 2" carb spacer go straight through and are sealed on top & bottom. The fasteners on the left & right side are sealed on the top only with special flanged sealing washers. We don't want any vacuum leaks on the dyno.
Here's a closer shot of those sealing washers. I think I should have bought stock in McMaster Carr before I started this. I've had deliveries nearly every day from them for the last two weeks. Nearly all the stainless fasteners in the M8 and M6 sizes are from them. The M8 studs, all the M10 fasteners and all the flange nuts were imported from the UK, as they simply don't exist here in the USA (at least not that I could find).
Lextreme II
Active Member
John,
I can not wait until your ignition system working. If you dont mind I would like to follow your foot step. I noticed you have good use of the oil plate we made. Nice work and it looks awesome. Love those allen screws on the valve cover....
I can not wait until your ignition system working. If you dont mind I would like to follow your foot step. I noticed you have good use of the oil plate we made. Nice work and it looks awesome. Love those allen screws on the valve cover....
stevechumo
Active Member
John,
Why are you using the Carb instead of the fuel injection system? It's just my curiosity. Is the Carb better than the EFI? I never had fate in any Carb system.
Why are you using the Carb instead of the fuel injection system? It's just my curiosity. Is the Carb better than the EFI? I never had fate in any Carb system.
LondonBenji
New Member
I think (correct me if I am wrong) its purely to get the engine run in with a fuel/air mixture you know exactly.... something along those lines.
Thanks David, actually I wound up using the stock adaptor and just lopped the oil filter neck off. Here's some more pics of it. Once I got the old one off, and saw the machining it would require to put the o-ring grooves in the new plate, I just decided to use the OEM plate. It was quite a chore getting the -10AN's spaced out, and then offsetting the holes, and then smoothing them out. Sorta like porting a head!
Steve, I've got the Holley on there only for the motor breakin on the dyno, then once we've got the rings seated, and good compression, it's coming off. I'll then put an Opcon-Autorotor SC on it along with fuel injection, EMS, etc.
Steve, I've got the Holley on there only for the motor breakin on the dyno, then once we've got the rings seated, and good compression, it's coming off. I'll then put an Opcon-Autorotor SC on it along with fuel injection, EMS, etc.
Here's some other pics showing the prelube pickup, in case anyone is curious.
There will be an external 12v Mocal differential pump in the engine bay, which will draw oil from the sump via this connection, then will pump it into the oil filter via a tee'd connection (with check valves). From the oil filter the oil will then go through the engine in the normal way. I have a similar system on my '97 Supra, and I run the pump about 10-20 seconds before the low oil pressure lamp goes off, then I know it's been prelubed OK.
That's Sch40 aluminum pipe in the photo; I hope it'll handle the vibration. If not, it'll get changed to stainless.
There will be an external 12v Mocal differential pump in the engine bay, which will draw oil from the sump via this connection, then will pump it into the oil filter via a tee'd connection (with check valves). From the oil filter the oil will then go through the engine in the normal way. I have a similar system on my '97 Supra, and I run the pump about 10-20 seconds before the low oil pressure lamp goes off, then I know it's been prelubed OK.
That's Sch40 aluminum pipe in the photo; I hope it'll handle the vibration. If not, it'll get changed to stainless.
stevechumo
Active Member
Thanks for your clarification, John. You're the man! :la:
Lextreme II
Active Member
Nice work John! You will be the first MK IV with Supercharged 1UZFE. Very unique.
Thanks for the vote of confidence David, but it's taken over two years to get to this point, and it's not in there yet ;-)
Once we break it in, then I've got to bring it back home, put the SC and the rest of the accessories on it, change the pulleys over to Andrew's new 8 rib set, put a fuel system on it, all the sensors, and a "real" harness, etc. Then it's back to the dyno for some EMS tuning & power runs....
Honestly, I don't think we'll start putting it in the car before the end of 2007.
Once we break it in, then I've got to bring it back home, put the SC and the rest of the accessories on it, change the pulleys over to Andrew's new 8 rib set, put a fuel system on it, all the sensors, and a "real" harness, etc. Then it's back to the dyno for some EMS tuning & power runs....
Honestly, I don't think we'll start putting it in the car before the end of 2007.
LondonBenji
New Member
Hey dude, what was the actual specific reason for using carbs during run in? Just want to know if I was along the right sort of lines 
Stick, I'll be running an Opcon-Autorotor twinscrew SC. It's about the same flow as the M112, but it's packaged a lot smaller. The M112 was just too tall, and too long for me.
Benji, yes the reason for the carb during break in is because I don't want/need a tuner trying to sort out an EMS while the motor is busy lunching itself on the dyno due to a fuel map and AFR being way off. A carb is a pretty simple beast, and hopefully it'll be one less thing to worry about.
Benji, yes the reason for the carb during break in is because I don't want/need a tuner trying to sort out an EMS while the motor is busy lunching itself on the dyno due to a fuel map and AFR being way off. A carb is a pretty simple beast, and hopefully it'll be one less thing to worry about.
mycarhasposessedme
New Member
Awesome work John, That engine looks really great.
I always new you were one of those crazy obsessive perfectionists.
Must have been a bit disheartening seeing everything still looking filthy after a full build and then discovering silicone man had put all of the covers etc on.
Really like that pre-lube setup.
Cheers Mate
P.S. thats no excuse for not keeping us up to date on this.
I always new you were one of those crazy obsessive perfectionists.
Must have been a bit disheartening seeing everything still looking filthy after a full build and then discovering silicone man had put all of the covers etc on.
Really like that pre-lube setup.
Cheers Mate
P.S. thats no excuse for not keeping us up to date on this.
Trevor, cheers M8; yeah I think I've got about as many $$ invested in the SS fasteners as the motor cost originally. But it sure is purdy sitting out there ;-) I almost hate to stick it in an engine bay where I can't look at it anymore. Maybe it needs to be a coffee table, instead....
BTW, I've made a list of all the fasteners if anyone wants to repeat this process. I'm also working with Stig's Stainless Fasteners in the UK, to put together a "kit" for the motor. These guys were really great - best service I've had from a vendor in a long time: http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/default.aspx
None of the studs or the M10x1.25 fasteners were available in the US, so I had to go overseas to source them. Once I found Stig's, I sourced a lot more from them because of their great selection and service. They're not cheap, however.....
BTW, I've made a list of all the fasteners if anyone wants to repeat this process. I'm also working with Stig's Stainless Fasteners in the UK, to put together a "kit" for the motor. These guys were really great - best service I've had from a vendor in a long time: http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/default.aspx
None of the studs or the M10x1.25 fasteners were available in the US, so I had to go overseas to source them. Once I found Stig's, I sourced a lot more from them because of their great selection and service. They're not cheap, however.....
Here's a few pics of the COP setup.
These are MKIV Supra COP's with '94 Camry boots on them:
Yes, they're sitting a little high, but I've got a 3/8" or 1/4" mounting plate that they'll mount on. Eventually I hope to have them sitting on an extruded, finned heat sink. That ought to look pretty cool (hehe):
That's one expensive pencil holder! (BTW, that is NOT blue silicone oozing out there, it's Hylomar ;-), and FWIW, after I took these photos I trimmed the excess off. Did Trevor say obsessive?
Here's the rat's nest that I have to convert to a working ignition system in the next 48 hours. I don't think this is going to be nearly as much fun or look nearly as nice as putting all those stainless fasteners on the motor......
These are MKIV Supra COP's with '94 Camry boots on them:
Yes, they're sitting a little high, but I've got a 3/8" or 1/4" mounting plate that they'll mount on. Eventually I hope to have them sitting on an extruded, finned heat sink. That ought to look pretty cool (hehe):
That's one expensive pencil holder! (BTW, that is NOT blue silicone oozing out there, it's Hylomar ;-), and FWIW, after I took these photos I trimmed the excess off. Did Trevor say obsessive?
Here's the rat's nest that I have to convert to a working ignition system in the next 48 hours. I don't think this is going to be nearly as much fun or look nearly as nice as putting all those stainless fasteners on the motor......
Here's two of the coolest little gizmos's I've seen in a long time. Both do a simple job, but do it very well. The guy on the left is an expanding test plug, McMaster-Carr P/N: 2599K27,
and the one on the right is a 10mm SS standoff, McMaster-Carr P/N: 93655A706
So what's so cool about these gizmo's?
How about an injector port plug for the first one. This puppy once it's inserted into the injector port & tightened up, will NOT pull out, so the port is sealed very well. Just what the doctor ordered if you're going to be blasting or coating the manifold. (I changed the washers on this plug so that it'd fit down into the injector port better. The original washers had it sitting up on top of the port, which would be better for someone blasting or coating the manifold.)
And how about a plug terminal extender? Thread size is M4x0.7, and these are ideal for raising the top terminal a few mm's if your COP's are a bit short. McMaster-Carr sell these in heights from 5mm to 31mm!
Of course the plug terminal extender means you have to use an XTRA deep socket to install & remove the plugs.
Probably anything taller than 10mm would be better in plain steel, so it could be backed off, and extracted with a magnetic socket.
and the one on the right is a 10mm SS standoff, McMaster-Carr P/N: 93655A706
So what's so cool about these gizmo's?
How about an injector port plug for the first one. This puppy once it's inserted into the injector port & tightened up, will NOT pull out, so the port is sealed very well. Just what the doctor ordered if you're going to be blasting or coating the manifold. (I changed the washers on this plug so that it'd fit down into the injector port better. The original washers had it sitting up on top of the port, which would be better for someone blasting or coating the manifold.)
And how about a plug terminal extender? Thread size is M4x0.7, and these are ideal for raising the top terminal a few mm's if your COP's are a bit short. McMaster-Carr sell these in heights from 5mm to 31mm!
Of course the plug terminal extender means you have to use an XTRA deep socket to install & remove the plugs.
Probably anything taller than 10mm would be better in plain steel, so it could be backed off, and extracted with a magnetic socket.
Head cooling question
I was planning to dyno this motor with the two back heater connections plugged off, ie no circulation between them.
Then I started thinking, should those two pipes be connected together, to increase the coolant flow from the back of the heads?
Here's the cooling system schematic:
The flow I'm going to block off is shown in red, while the "normal" flow from the rear of the head to the front is shown in blue.
Would there be any need or advantage in allowing the red flow? It's after the thermostat, so it's an unregulated bypass type of flow....
I was planning to dyno this motor with the two back heater connections plugged off, ie no circulation between them.
Then I started thinking, should those two pipes be connected together, to increase the coolant flow from the back of the heads?
Here's the cooling system schematic:
The flow I'm going to block off is shown in red, while the "normal" flow from the rear of the head to the front is shown in blue.
Would there be any need or advantage in allowing the red flow? It's after the thermostat, so it's an unregulated bypass type of flow....
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