Reincarnation: 1uzfe reanimates 4runner with impending flatline

[earthman]

POST ENGINE INSTALLATION: Alternator Issues​

About 10 months after the engine installation the motor began to have a few idling issues. My idle bottomed out (and bounced between 400 and 800) when slowing down and stopping at traffic lights etc for about 2 months. Very strange symptom. Could not work it out for ages and tried everything from least expensive thing to fix to the most expensive, of course it ended up being the most expensive.

I tried cleaning ISC, changed AFM, cleaned throttle, checked for vacuum leaks, checked coil and ignitor wiring, checked ECU plugs for corrosion, changed the ECU water temp sensor and the alternator was last on my list but I did not get to it before it died and it left me stranded. The auto sparky said the alternator was irreparable so I got a brand new one installed and have not had the problem since.

 

[earthman]

POST ENGINE INSTALLATION: Replace ECU water temp sensor​

While chasing down the cause of the above idling issues I swapped out the ECU water temp sensor. This is on the right hand side of the front water-bridge that crosses between the two heads. It requires a 14mm deep socket to remove.

When I removed the old one I found the plastic (which was once green) had become almost brown and very brittle. On further inspection it had broken or corroded right through where it joined the brass housing.

Although this did not end up being the cause of the slowing and idling issues I am glad that I discovered it, swapped it out and put a new one in as the mileage, power and fuel usage seemed to improve slightly when the new one was installed.

 

[earthman]

Hi Guys,

Apologies for my absence, it has been a Looooong time since I have visited or posted. Life kind of got in the way of visiting. I have not been idle though. I have done some more mods to the vehicle which I will post details of here but at the moment I am restoring the images in this thread that were lost in the server change.

 

[earthman]

POST ENGINE INSTALLATION: Transmission ​

There was a leak from the transmission main seal around about the same time as the alternator issues. It started slipping really bad. When I checked the dipstick it was bone dry. Because of the slipping I anticipated there may have been some damage inside. I spoke to the mechanics and they agreed and that I may need a rebuild or new gearbox. I decided to try to get a new gearbox.

My engine and gearbox were from the 95-97 LS401/Celsior, part number 35000-50082 (UCF20 and UCF21 models I think) and all that were available (from SSS Automotive in Girraween) were gearboxes from the 90-94 LS400/Celsior, part number 35000-50050 (UCF10 and UCF11 models I think) I started doing some reading and asking around to see if they were cross compatible.

The gearbox number I had was 35000-50082, the older ones were 35000-50050. Physically the boxes were very similar except that 50082 had one speed sensor on the tail housing (presumably a combined one for the ECU and dash) and 50050 seemed to have an extra speed sensor (An electronic one for the ECU and a gear driven one for the dash). I spoke with Sideshow and he told me that as long as the main plug (there are 8 pin versions and 6 pin versions, mine was 8 pin) and the position switch plug would fit the harness (there are apparently larger and smaller ones, mine was larger) there should not be any issues. So I took the plunge and got a 35000-50050.

There had to be a couple of mods to get the transfer case to fit: cutting the output shaft and speed sensor rotor etc (this is all covered earlier in the build). And while everything was apart I had the hole at the centre/bottom of the gearbox/transfercase interface drilled and tapped out to 10mm course thread for that bolt I was too lazy to put in last time (see photo).

Once the whole lot was back together, rather than fill it up with generic Dextron IV I went to Toyota, paid the extra money and bought some Toyota Type IV transmission fluid. The transmission was filled up with this. I was using Dextron in it before. I don’t know if the dextron contributed to the transmission issues but from now on Toyota Type IV transmission fluid is all I have used it, as recommended.

The vehicle was tested and worked fine. It has been driving perfectly ever since both on and off road with zero issues.

 

[earthman]

POST ENGINE INSTALLATION: More heating issues and a solution​

In the summer of 2009-2010 the engine tended to get hot, even with the three smaller fans pulling air through the alloy radiator, the bonnet scoop tried backwards and forwards, front bash plate on and off, etc etc etc. It occasionally nudged 105c. Also, I was never entirely happy with the three smaller fan setup. It just looked messy and cramped.

So in Jan and Feb 2010 I installed a custom radiator from PWR. I spent hours measuring up how wide I could go with a new radiator and how far forward I could get it to fit a larger fan. When I had all the measurements I sat down and drew up a plan of the tank size, core size, inlets and outlets, fan positioning etc. I then contacted PWR for advice on the design and materials, emailed plans backwards and forwards a few times till I was happy with the design. PWR were extremely helpful, were patient and gave plenty of good advice.

This PWR radiator was recessed forward a bit more than the original Afco radiator. Instead of having the mounting brackets on the sides of the tanks they are mounted flush with the rear. This freed up another 15-20mm between the Rad and the engine, enough to install a full 16 inch thermo fan (not a thin bladed one). This fan is triggered at 87Deg C by a thermo switch which is installed into a boss on the radiator itself just below that radiator inlet. It cuts out again at about 82Deg C. This PWR radiator also has a drain plug, which the Afco doesn’t.

The PWR radiator has been more than adequate for the cooling of this engine since the install. In over a year of driving it has never gone above 95c degrees, even in slow driving in summer.

Sorry the pictures here aren't great, I will try to take some better ones and post them.

 

[earthman]

POST ENGINE INSTALLATION: Alloy air filter box​

While the VN Commodore air filter box I modified with some fibreglass was adequate, it looked messy, I sort of regarded it as temporary and I was never entirely happy with it.

So about 8 months ago I had a bit of spare time so measured up the space available, sat down and made a cardboard mock-up of a decent air filter box. As well as housing the filter, it had to connect with the ARB/Safari snorkel. This mock-up was taken to an aluminium manufacturing mob (the same that did the bash plate) and they made one up based on the plans. When they were finished it was powder coated black so it would look nice and tidy sitting in the engine bay. I used some marine hatch rubber on the inside so that it seals nice and tight and installed some elastic marine grade canvas loops to hold the lid on. Overall, it looks very tidy and I was pretty happy with the way it turned out.