Yes it can be done but consider that a Corvette has more vertical clearance where the stock mufflers install. This would make somewhat easier packaging than the SC. Also, for best response you want straight pipes to the turbos without any mufflers or resonators. Coupled with the turbos where the last mufflers would go leave very little if any room for mufflers. This means a LOUD SC400.
rear mount turbo
- Thread starter do92sc400
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The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Yes it can be done but consider that a Corvette has more vertical clearance where the stock mufflers install. This would make somewhat easier packaging than the SC. Also, for best response you want straight pipes to the turbos without any mufflers or resonators. Coupled with the turbos where the last mufflers would go leave very little if any room for mufflers. This means a LOUD SC400.
That is a very good point, but I would like to experience how to make this set up so I could perhaps do this to other cars that I have, like my 73 lincoln mark iv with a blow through carb. Plus, personally I like the sound of the V8.
The n/a 2J converted to turbo is even quicker..
Runing more boost in any engine [within reason] is going to make more power.. If tune is kept correct....
LOL i beg to differ as i think my stock internal UZ appears to love 400+rwkw
So we should reinvent the wheels again with no regrets.
Yes it can be done but consider that a Corvette has more vertical clearance where the stock mufflers install. This would make somewhat easier packaging than the SC. Also, for best response you want straight pipes to the turbos without any mufflers or resonators. Coupled with the turbos where the last mufflers would go leave very little if any room for mufflers. This means a LOUD SC400.
SC400TT
Active Member
This is an interesting thread. I have just read all the posts, and I see several thoughts and opinions. I am no expert, but I most certainly have quite a bit of experience in turboing the SC400, as several of you know. Now, I know my project is way off the roof, but I will tell you that John Cribb is absolutely correct in his suggestions of the many concerns you will face in any turbo project. If you want to keep your costs down and add FI, I agree with him, install a supercharger. It requires so much less plumbing and fabrication than a turbo. At 5-6 PSI, you will not really have to make any major changes to your car to get this running.
I do not know if you have looked under the SC400, but there is no room for a turbo under it. I tried that route during my journey to get my car turboed. I first looked to replace the cats and place the turbos there...No way, not even a small T3 will fit without major modification to the floor pan and transmission tunnel. I would not attempt that there.
As John Brady so correctly stated, there is very little vertical space available where the SC muffles are located, again, a poor location for even a tiny turbo.
As you stated, the only place to really place the turbo is in the wheel well area. And you would have to mod that area extensively to make it fit properly. Consider that you would also have extensive plumbing to route back and forth under your car for the exhaust and charge air tubes. Lots of plumbing, and the SC has little room. I agree with John Brady, it can be done, but it will not be optimal, IMHO. I also do not believe yhou can do it for $1,000. Maybe you will and prove me wrong, but that sounds a bit unrealistic. Perhaps if you can do all of your own fabricatrion and welding, plus use all mild steel for your plumbibg, and purchase a small junkyard used turbo, you could get close, but it certainly would not be a very optimal set up.
There are also several other things to consider:
Go for it, but step in with your eyes open...:scared:
Ryan
I do not know if you have looked under the SC400, but there is no room for a turbo under it. I tried that route during my journey to get my car turboed. I first looked to replace the cats and place the turbos there...No way, not even a small T3 will fit without major modification to the floor pan and transmission tunnel. I would not attempt that there.
As John Brady so correctly stated, there is very little vertical space available where the SC muffles are located, again, a poor location for even a tiny turbo.
As you stated, the only place to really place the turbo is in the wheel well area. And you would have to mod that area extensively to make it fit properly. Consider that you would also have extensive plumbing to route back and forth under your car for the exhaust and charge air tubes. Lots of plumbing, and the SC has little room. I agree with John Brady, it can be done, but it will not be optimal, IMHO. I also do not believe yhou can do it for $1,000. Maybe you will and prove me wrong, but that sounds a bit unrealistic. Perhaps if you can do all of your own fabricatrion and welding, plus use all mild steel for your plumbibg, and purchase a small junkyard used turbo, you could get close, but it certainly would not be a very optimal set up.
There are also several other things to consider:
- Once you start upping the boost, be prepared to make many necessary changes such as replacing the stock OEM organic Head gaskets, because you will blow them. So you will need MLS gaskets to replace them.
- BTW, you will probably need to perform a ring job, as your SC will start slipping more and more oil past those rings once you add FI
- It will be much easier to lift one of the heads if you do not replace the stock head bolts with ARP studs.
- Since you are in there, 12 lbs is not very boost friendly with high compression pistons, so you will probably want to change to an aftermarket, lower compression piston.
- Since your looking at 12 lbs of boost, if you beat on your engine much, you will probably need to change your rods out to beefier ones, because others have already bent the stock rods at somewhere near 12 lbs of boost.
- At that point, you willl need more fuel, and just adding a fuel pressure regulator will not be sufficient to feed the engine what it needs for both power and safety, so you will need to change out your injectors to larger ones.
- At that point, you will need engine management.
Go for it, but step in with your eyes open...:scared:
Ryan
I disagree, I think it can be done, if we put looks aside and whether it's a good/bad route to go, it can be done. I believe that the rear mount is the simplest way for turbos, I see what you are saying about the long run in cost per hp ratio, but if he's looking for a meager five to seven psi, then I know it can be done for cheap, so long as he is able to weld. And isn't afraid of using junkyard parts, like a t3 from a z31/svo, there are a lot of internally wastegated t3's. A t3 flange is like thirty five dollars, oil lines can be expensive, the only things I can think of cost are; turbo, return pump, and lines.
As far as tuning goes, I don't think it'll be a problem with what his goals are. So mildly speaking, safc, and maybe some MKIII n/a injectors.
Even Lextreme has stated that the stock fueling system can handle seven to eight psi.
Again only if he can weld. I wouldn't personally do rear mounted turbo, but I'm here for support, I think we should try everything we can with the v8, and just show everyone else, that even the toyota v8 can have lots of power.
As far as tuning goes, I don't think it'll be a problem with what his goals are. So mildly speaking, safc, and maybe some MKIII n/a injectors.
Even Lextreme has stated that the stock fueling system can handle seven to eight psi.
Again only if he can weld. I wouldn't personally do rear mounted turbo, but I'm here for support, I think we should try everything we can with the v8, and just show everyone else, that even the toyota v8 can have lots of power.
mshawari1
Member
To solve the oil problem in the rear mounted turbo I've seen a Corvette turboed here and he install the twin turbo inside the trunk!!! And he remove one of the break light in each side butting the air filter near there…. The turbo level in this setup is above the engine because of the shape of the care… finally the car makes 700 RWHP on the dyno ……..
Regarding the fueling system under 7 – 10 PSI. why you don't install 7M-GE injectors with resistors. Its about 315 cc/min.
Regarding the fueling system under 7 – 10 PSI. why you don't install 7M-GE injectors with resistors. Its about 315 cc/min.
reinventing wheel again
all soarer 1jzgte swap cost $1000 (350 hp with boost controller)
All aristo 2jzgte swap cost $1500 (400 hp with boost controller)
and after there is no need place turbo in trunk or under floor pan. really 1uz-fe do not like performance mods even with big money hepl.
befor you guys start reinventing wheel again that is something to think about
all soarer 1jzgte swap cost $1000 (350 hp with boost controller)
All aristo 2jzgte swap cost $1500 (400 hp with boost controller)
and after there is no need place turbo in trunk or under floor pan. really 1uz-fe do not like performance mods even with big money hepl.
befor you guys start reinventing wheel again that is something to think about
That is a very good point, but I would like to experience how to make this set up so I could perhaps do this to other cars that I have, like my 73 lincoln mark iv with a blow through carb. Plus, personally I like the sound of the V8.
XR8tt
Active Member
The n/a 2J converted to turbo is even quicker..
Runing more boost in any engine [within reason] is going to make more power.. If tune is kept correct....
stevechumo
Active Member
If you can resolve the oil issue, then you can fit 2 T25 nicely underneath. Each T25 can max out at 250 bhp. The Mitsubishi spyder with this turbo makes 200 bhp stock. Those Mitsu owners maxed out the T25 all the time. I read somewhere a guy ported this turbo and made around 250 whp, which is similar to 300 bhp.
JustenGT8
New Member
LOL i beg to differ as i think my stock internal UZ appears to love 400+rwkw
XR8tt
Active Member
Seems we are cleverer than some ??? Lol...
stevechumo
Active Member
I don't know how you came up with that so inexpensive costs. The reality is so different from what you figured. Including the parts and labor, a 1JZGTE swap is about $3000-$5000. A 2JZGTE swap costs about $5000-$8000. These costs don't include tuning. Tuning costs you $1000 or more. This assumes the parts are good and don't require replacement. My buddy just got his 2JZGTE swap for around $10,000 including really good tuning and he made 325 rwhp. This is with stock turbos. This 325 rwhp is somewhere 400 bhp like you stated.
So we should reinvent the wheels again with no regrets.
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