Chris's (1UZFE) SC400
New Member
Keep up the great work Ryan!!!! I can't wait to see this thing in person some day soon. I know the pictures don't even do it justice. I made a small intro thread in the general section, if you get time check it out.
Project Thread Project SC400TT
- Thread starter SC400TT
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
SC400TT
Active Member
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RedPhoenix
New Member
So when is it getting tuned? 
SC400TT
Active Member
Well, another late night on the project. Dan and I worked on it like crazy, and got much done.
- The DEFI's all fired up, look gorgeous!
- My newly revamped Cluster from O. L. T. fired up and looed awesome as well.
- The revamped AC control module done in brilliant white fired up. Again, awesome!!
- Installed the Greddy Profec B Valve control unit in the car, and ran vacuum hose from the turbos
- Wired up the Power/ECT/Snow button for the E-Shift Poewer on switch. It lights up the dash and shows ECT when on, and in manual mode.
- Wired up the SC300 Gated shifter....Still have one problem, can't get the shifter out of shift lock, (even when pressing the brakes). It will come out of park and shift to all gears. It gets stuck at Neutral. I searched everything on the forum regarding this, and cannot yet find the aswer. I can only shift to park by engaging the shift lock release button. Anybody know the fix I appreciate it much.
- Wired up the relay for the fans, wired the ground, and fired up the twin Zirgos!! Awesome fas.
- Re-routed many wires and harnesses....Very time consuming.
- Repaired the damage from the previous shop to the custom billet battery tray....Lots of' time again
- Put power to the car.
stevechumo
Active Member
I almost forgot about your project. :nana: Everything nice is coming together.
SC400TT
Active Member
SC400TT
Active Member
I planned to start up the car this past weekend, but I had to work out a few unexpected relocations first:
1)I had to relocate the EGT bung on the DP as it was too close to the lower radiator tube to get around with the sensor attached. I moved it six inches further down the exhaust, on the other side of the V-Band where there is no ceramic coating. That was welded on by Jarrett at SlowBoy Performance on Monday, August 31st. Problem fixed.
2)The bung for the IAC valve was never welded onto the Charge air tube, so Jarrett welded that too.
3)When I went to connect up the Air Intake Temp sensor, I found that the bung that was welded on was drilled and tapped for a different sensor, so the size of the hole was way to big. Jarrett fixed that up for me as well. Great guy, Jarett. He welds a damned fine bead.....
4)I have to work out the relocation of the PS pump reservoir, the location of the Water/Meth reservoir, as well as selecting a new fill reservoir for the windshield washer.
As mentioned above, I picked up those parts from Slow Boys today, and I installed them tonight. Damned V Bands are sometimes a pain to connect up. Anyway, the exhaust is all buttoned up, I installed the Innovate O2 sensor and tightened that up.
I connected up the Intake Air Temp Sensor, as well as installed the EGT sensor.
I still have to finish up a few minor stereo parts in the trunk, and install the visors and headliner trim tomorrow night. I also plan to pull the wires back through the rubber grommets in the doors and reinstall the 4.5" midrange speakers. I am holding off installing the rest of the interior until Dan Osypian gets back from being out of town, as his wiring is par excellance, and he has a few items left to button up, as well as installing my Clifford alarm with remote start system.
There is not much left to do before I start up this car.....Finally!!
More to come.
Ryan
1)I had to relocate the EGT bung on the DP as it was too close to the lower radiator tube to get around with the sensor attached. I moved it six inches further down the exhaust, on the other side of the V-Band where there is no ceramic coating. That was welded on by Jarrett at SlowBoy Performance on Monday, August 31st. Problem fixed.
2)The bung for the IAC valve was never welded onto the Charge air tube, so Jarrett welded that too.
3)When I went to connect up the Air Intake Temp sensor, I found that the bung that was welded on was drilled and tapped for a different sensor, so the size of the hole was way to big. Jarrett fixed that up for me as well. Great guy, Jarett. He welds a damned fine bead.....
4)I have to work out the relocation of the PS pump reservoir, the location of the Water/Meth reservoir, as well as selecting a new fill reservoir for the windshield washer.
As mentioned above, I picked up those parts from Slow Boys today, and I installed them tonight. Damned V Bands are sometimes a pain to connect up. Anyway, the exhaust is all buttoned up, I installed the Innovate O2 sensor and tightened that up.
I connected up the Intake Air Temp Sensor, as well as installed the EGT sensor.
I still have to finish up a few minor stereo parts in the trunk, and install the visors and headliner trim tomorrow night. I also plan to pull the wires back through the rubber grommets in the doors and reinstall the 4.5" midrange speakers. I am holding off installing the rest of the interior until Dan Osypian gets back from being out of town, as his wiring is par excellance, and he has a few items left to button up, as well as installing my Clifford alarm with remote start system.
There is not much left to do before I start up this car.....Finally!!
More to come.
Ryan
SC400TT
Active Member
I was hoping to get enough done last night so that I could start up the motor, but I ran into a few show stoppers, just temporarily.
I hope to start up today.
I will keep you posted.
- I was running around town getting the remaining parts I needed to finish up and start up the motor. That always takes too long.
- The radiator cap I bought was the wrong size....I will have to take it back and replace it.
- The Lexus dealer was supposed to set aside a case of Toyota Type IV tranny fluid for me to pick up since I could not make it by the time parts closed....I got there, no case. So, I had to leave without fluid.
- Tore the O-ring for the Transmission dip stick, have to get a new one on Saturday.
- Did not complete the installation of the Water Temp Sensor for the cooling fans last night, and will have to do so today.
I hope to start up today.
I will keep you posted.
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stevechumo
Active Member
Whooh! That's a common mistake that many of us make. And priming the turbo, too.
SC400TT
Active Member
Well gang, since the forum has been down, I have only been able to post up on CL. I will make some posts here now to update you on my progress and set backs....
From CL Post:
Hey gang, I thought I would update you on my progress. As mentioned previously, I spent the weekend completing the installation of the Big Brakes, and then prepping the car for start up. We filled the car with fluids, and rechecked everything one more time.
Then we disconnected the coils and cranked the engine to build oil pressure and be sure that the break in oil was well spread throughout the engine. Then we connected the coils and attempted start up.
The car would not start. We checked over everything and found a few issues that I will be addressing over the next few days, and then I should be good.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks,
Ryan
From CL Post:
Hey gang, I thought I would update you on my progress. As mentioned previously, I spent the weekend completing the installation of the Big Brakes, and then prepping the car for start up. We filled the car with fluids, and rechecked everything one more time.
Then we disconnected the coils and cranked the engine to build oil pressure and be sure that the break in oil was well spread throughout the engine. Then we connected the coils and attempted start up.
The car would not start. We checked over everything and found a few issues that I will be addressing over the next few days, and then I should be good.
- The injector feeding the number 2 cylinder got very hot during start up, so we disconnected it and tested the lead with a Noid tester, it showed constant light, so that indicates a problem either in the wiring or in the injector programming. I tested the lead and got a constant twelve volts which should not happen.
- I also checked the injector, and it ohmed out fine, 2.2 ohms constant. I ordered another injector to replace it just as I am uncomfortable with it since it overheated so much.
- I need to check and verify the Cam sensor set up in the SM4.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks,
Ryan
SC400TT
Active Member
Update on the NON-START
Well, after a few hours of trouble shooting the harness, as well as over an hour on the phone with Autronic (Most excellent customer support from Autronic), Scott and I determined that the batch-fire wiring for injector #2 was inadvertantly tied to ground instead of the ECU, and the +12v switched source that powers all the injectors was tied into injector #2 on the SM4. This resulted in frying injector #2 because there was a short circuit to ground due (through the injector) when power was applied with the key "on".
Luckily, the motor was not hydrolocked, and there was not any conrod damage. The injector most definitely needs to be replaced, as the plastic casing is partially melted, with clear burn marks on it. Plus, I found fuel in the connector receptacle when I unplugged the clip from the injector, and the only way that could have gotten there was for the injector to crack internally and fuel to be forced up into that area. I have ordered another one.
This was a most unfortunate event. We are now going to go through the entire loom to make sure everything is correct. To note, the wiring was thoroughly checked after getting the loom back, but only at the ECU. Should have checked each injector lead as well.
The good news is that this does not appear to be a huge set back, and it should be corrected this week. Perhaps she can start up this weekend.....
Ryan
Well, after a few hours of trouble shooting the harness, as well as over an hour on the phone with Autronic (Most excellent customer support from Autronic), Scott and I determined that the batch-fire wiring for injector #2 was inadvertantly tied to ground instead of the ECU, and the +12v switched source that powers all the injectors was tied into injector #2 on the SM4. This resulted in frying injector #2 because there was a short circuit to ground due (through the injector) when power was applied with the key "on".
Luckily, the motor was not hydrolocked, and there was not any conrod damage. The injector most definitely needs to be replaced, as the plastic casing is partially melted, with clear burn marks on it. Plus, I found fuel in the connector receptacle when I unplugged the clip from the injector, and the only way that could have gotten there was for the injector to crack internally and fuel to be forced up into that area. I have ordered another one.
This was a most unfortunate event. We are now going to go through the entire loom to make sure everything is correct. To note, the wiring was thoroughly checked after getting the loom back, but only at the ECU. Should have checked each injector lead as well.
The good news is that this does not appear to be a huge set back, and it should be corrected this week. Perhaps she can start up this weekend.....
Ryan
SC400TT
Active Member
Checked all the wiring, corrected the hard ground on the number 2 injector lead, and installed the new injector along with the fuel rail. Scott D and I spent all day on the car. Learned a few interesting points, and all I have to do is reconnect the front fuel line to the rail, tighten up both fuel lines on that side, reinstall the Throttle Body, and charge tube, and I should be ready to attempt start up once again. Wish me luck....
Ryan
Ryan
Ryan, after some good and bad experiences with tuners and new motor setups, there's a few things I'll now always do before running an engine that hasn't been run in awhile, or has new equipment on it:
1) If possible, pressure up the fuel rails and injectors, together, off the engine, or on a spare manifold, to check for leaky or sticking injectors. Another well known Supra tuner & I hydrolocked a 2JZ engine five years ago because some injector adapters were malplaced.
2) Test fire each injector from the ECU before pressurising the fuel rail. This is an absolute must to ensure the injectors are opening and closing smoothly, and to again avoid the situation of a leaky injector filling a cylinder with fuel and hydrolocking the engine. During our first dyno session with Mitch, we found that over half the injectors I'd had cleaned were sticking, and the cylinders were full of gasoline. Fortunately we found it before we spun the engine, but not before we'd pressured up the rail ;-) Once you've fired a good injector and heard the positive click it makes, then you fire a duff one, you'll detect the difference immediately.
3) Test fire each ignition coil (if a COP system) and spark plug to check that the firing order is correct and you've got good spark.
4) When turning the motor over to build oil pressure before firing the engine, if the oil pressure doesn't build up immediately, the pump could be "airlocked". It helps to crack a line on the discharge side of the pump, or to partially unscrew the oil filter. I've had this happen all three times that we've run the motor on the dyno.
5) As Steve Chumo pointed out, priming the turbo would be a great idea to avoid spinning it dry.
6) It goes without saying to check the calibration of your WBO2 controller in free air, and ensure that the value is the same in the ECU as on its display (if you have a separate display).
7) Don't be lulled into thinking when you run the engine the first time, if the WBO2 reads 10:1 that "maybe" you're a little rich, but still OK. Many highly thought of WBO2 setups only read down to 10:1, and no further. So you could have all your injectors stuck open and still be reading 10:1. This tip is especially near & dear to me as I had a 2JZ engine ruined because of it.
1) If possible, pressure up the fuel rails and injectors, together, off the engine, or on a spare manifold, to check for leaky or sticking injectors. Another well known Supra tuner & I hydrolocked a 2JZ engine five years ago because some injector adapters were malplaced.
2) Test fire each injector from the ECU before pressurising the fuel rail. This is an absolute must to ensure the injectors are opening and closing smoothly, and to again avoid the situation of a leaky injector filling a cylinder with fuel and hydrolocking the engine. During our first dyno session with Mitch, we found that over half the injectors I'd had cleaned were sticking, and the cylinders were full of gasoline. Fortunately we found it before we spun the engine, but not before we'd pressured up the rail ;-) Once you've fired a good injector and heard the positive click it makes, then you fire a duff one, you'll detect the difference immediately.
3) Test fire each ignition coil (if a COP system) and spark plug to check that the firing order is correct and you've got good spark.
4) When turning the motor over to build oil pressure before firing the engine, if the oil pressure doesn't build up immediately, the pump could be "airlocked". It helps to crack a line on the discharge side of the pump, or to partially unscrew the oil filter. I've had this happen all three times that we've run the motor on the dyno.
5) As Steve Chumo pointed out, priming the turbo would be a great idea to avoid spinning it dry.
6) It goes without saying to check the calibration of your WBO2 controller in free air, and ensure that the value is the same in the ECU as on its display (if you have a separate display).
7) Don't be lulled into thinking when you run the engine the first time, if the WBO2 reads 10:1 that "maybe" you're a little rich, but still OK. Many highly thought of WBO2 setups only read down to 10:1, and no further. So you could have all your injectors stuck open and still be reading 10:1. This tip is especially near & dear to me as I had a 2JZ engine ruined because of it.
SC400TT
Active Member
Thanks for the info John. An excellent "Checklist" for pre-start prep. I want to note that I after my first mishap, I get much more detailed, and actually did all you listed except prime the turbos. I expect to start it this week.
Ryan
Ryan
SC400TT
Active Member
Gang, the beast started tonight!! It sounded good too!! 
I still have to work out the stepper motor settings so I can get it to idle on it's own, but it is awesome. I made a video, and I called Shane so he can testify that he heard it.
If anybody knows how to save the mini cam disc to a file in their computer, please tell me how so I can post this up on Photobucket or YouTube. I can play the disc on my computer but I could not figure how to save it to file.
We're almost on the road!!
Ryan.
I still have to work out the stepper motor settings so I can get it to idle on it's own, but it is awesome. I made a video, and I called Shane so he can testify that he heard it.If anybody knows how to save the mini cam disc to a file in their computer, please tell me how so I can post this up on Photobucket or YouTube. I can play the disc on my computer but I could not figure how to save it to file.
We're almost on the road!!
Ryan.
Lextreme II
Active Member
AWESOME>>>>>>> you can upload on youtube. That was a quick timing belt fix. Congrats....
