Ported 3UZ heads

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I had a go at porting mine as its being built for boost and lots of it as its only a track engine. Sure some $$ has been put into roatating assembly.Buy hey speed costs I have been around cars etc long enough to know that it costs!!! Hopefully it will be assmbled strong enough...
The heads I have mainly opened up ports slightly and opened up any sharp angles.. Lifting inlet and exhaust ports approx 6mm.. I have done the same to inlet manifold ports as well.. This is on 1UZ heads..I punched the valve guides out so they didn't screw with cutting tool...
One or two colapsed and broke while being taken out so I'll have to fit some new valve guides on re assembly...No big deal I hope there are some available or 4AGE engines guides fit ??? When I run polishing wheel through after die grinding I was surprised how nice they come up...
If in N/A form I loose velocity ? I cannot see this beeing an issue with 20 Lb or so boost ???
 
rms said:
Not an issue with N/A. For any reasonable gains velocity is too high anyway.
Click to expand...
Ha yes !! You often hear people say you loose low rpm torque with ported heads.. Then list they have added a cam that powers from 3800 to 6500 rpm... Like its the heads alone that looses torque..
Another little gripe.. Is you mod a motor to generally have more power, especially mid to higher rpm..Now in performance mode....Do you EVER drive around at 800 to 1500 rpm anyway ???? In any case its no big deal...Unless heads are fitted from all out race engine or from a sister engine of bigger capacity? Like Chevy's, Ford 5.0 & 5.8 engines...
The 1UZ can only made better with some work? It seems with 4 valve heads, a little work goes along way...In any case if it doesn't work I'll get another set and get them either CNC machined or professional ported...But I highly doubt I will have to...
 
You often hear people say you loose low rpm torque with ported heads.. Then list they have added a cam that powers from 3800 to 6500 rpm... Like its the heads alone that looses torque..
Click to expand...

True...we will have ported 3UZ heads....along with 3UZ VVTI cams
specs: 0.368 lift, 234 in/ex @ 0.050

:burnout:
 
No, these are no std. cams...but hardwelded.

t_vvticams1_774.jpg


Eric from TTC Performance reports about them here:

http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/viewtopic.php?t=546

We tend towards upgraded Supra TT springs, but not 100%sure yet...
 
Boosted, I really like your bench.

I built mine for orifice flow because I wanted to keep the process inexpensive. I then switched to FP1 as I see you have done, with the flow controller.

I only have 8 motors and can only reach about 450cfm at 28" with the one-way valves installed. No that I have the FP1, and want to go pitot tube. I am trying to think of a way to do this without completely starting over. Maybe I will just sell my bench and just do that....Start over.

How many motors you got in there, that is a HUGE box. You happen to have a write-up on that?

As for NOT flowbenching a ported and polished head, good luck. If you did just a nice seat blend and a clean up, that is one thing, removing a bunch of material can be disaster without a way to test it.
 
Ok well I justs last night started hogging materal out of one of my exhaust ports on my 1uz heads, when my roomate gets the pics off his camera ill make a new thread, my goal here is to figure out how far a 1uz head can be ported, my motor will also be get boost as XR8tt's is and im very much in the same boat as him on the can an amature port a head and make power, and the answer is very much yes, people who charge a lot of money for it would like you to think no. I guess if you have no common sence then the answer is still no though, im not scared at all tho as ive just dynoed a 3s-gte that i ported at 409hp and 275tq at 8psi this weekend, more boost is in the future. my old 7m made around 450hp and my 4ags that i never dynoed hauled ass. worse case i have to buy some new 1uz heads, whoopdy.

and kennady said "not because they are easy, but because they are hard," which applies somewhat to why people want to dig into more advanced engine building with or with out expert help.
 
Yep!! I can buy a whole engine and box for $600 with warrenty.. Looking though inlet port I can see atleast 30% more of the valve seat.Over the unported ... This MUST make it breath better. Lifting the height of the port helps. Every one I have talked to who owns a flow test machine all say don't take too much away from lower port, spend more time over the top. The radius [on bottom of port] is where some attention can be done.. There must be cnc programs out there which can do this these days ???
 
XR8tt said:
There must be cnc programs out there which can do this these days ???
Click to expand...
There are many, but, for one offs it is FAR cheaper to do it by hand.
CNC is accurate and repeatable, but not as simple as most imagine. The cost to develop a 3D solid model, then pick tool paths and assignments and then use a $250,000 + machine adds up to unaffordium for most people.
 

Its good to give it a try by hand.. As RMS said CNC is very costly. I have a spare 1UZ in my home but I never try to port some engine.
If you guys show me how to do I will try that ​
 
rms said:
There are many, but, for one offs it is FAR cheaper to do it by hand.
CNC is accurate and repeatable, but not as simple as most imagine. The cost to develop a 3D solid model, then pick tool paths and assignments and then use a $250,000 + machine adds up to unaffordium for most people.
Click to expand...
You are right but there are a few machines out there now..
If they want the work ? They have to charge what can be afforded.. Or they have a 1/4 Million dollor machine doing nothing..
It was an option, but I'll be doing my own...
I'd say if your keeping engine n/a ? A good pollishing wheel will take reasonable amount out without going too far...Compared to normal porting carbide burs...
 
Here's some pics... The valve guides have been removed.. I found there was a narrowing on inlet as it joined heads. these have been opened up too...
 
There are 99.9% of users think cams are bolt on. Aftermarket, hardweld or regrind they ALL have to re-shim. Even stock cams from one engine to another still need to reshim and clearance check.

That is why Toyota makes countless number of shims:

Intake shims
Exhaust Shims
 
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