M112 Supercharger Fitment
- Thread starter Lextreme II
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Lextreme II
Active Member
All I need is two weeks.....
I just made a simple plate that slips over the nose of the supercharger and used a regular puller. It was made from an old pipe flange and worked well. Use a cap head bolt in the end of the supercharger shaft to locate the puller central and protect the end of the shaft.
The new hub was put on useing some screwed rod in the end of the Eaton drive shaft and a socket that would go over the shaft as a spacer to push the hub, sorry no pics. I warmed the hub first then just pushed it on by doing up the nut on the screwed rod (impact gun because ther is no way to hold the shaft). Use good quality screwed rod.
The new hub was put on useing some screwed rod in the end of the Eaton drive shaft and a socket that would go over the shaft as a spacer to push the hub, sorry no pics. I warmed the hub first then just pushed it on by doing up the nut on the screwed rod (impact gun because ther is no way to hold the shaft). Use good quality screwed rod.
scotturnot
Member
I am subscribing to monitor progress.
Lextreme II
Active Member
Lextreme II
Active Member
Thanks to Justen. We got the oem pulley out and mock fit the 2.90" pulley. Looks mighty good.
Lextreme II
Active Member
Finally picked up the M112 and things are looking good. I installed the pulley today and want to get a belt for it. I also need to do some alunimum tig welding for mounting points along with extra injector nozzles.
Lextreme II
Active Member
No Jag.. just plain M112. I got my belt size fitted and working on the extra injector setup along with fuel supply.
Things left to do:
* Weld on nozzle stabilizers
* Weld on mounting points on the charger and manifold
* Attach ISV
* Delete EGR.
Pretty much its ready with the above mods.
Things left to do:
* Weld on nozzle stabilizers
* Weld on mounting points on the charger and manifold
* Attach ISV
* Delete EGR.
Pretty much its ready with the above mods.
Lex, I love this Cobra M112 setup of yours.... What is it good for around 500whp or so on that motor of yours? That is going to be one fun car to drive...
Talking with Steve it appears it is much more cost effective to try this setup on my SC400 rather then fab a single turbo setup...I can keep my headers and other stuff intact with this M112... I'll call you on this...Need more info... Like where to get the manifold, brackets, etc...
Your message box on your cell phone is full... You need to check and clear those messages there buddy...You must be a popular man.... Late..
Talking with Steve it appears it is much more cost effective to try this setup on my SC400 rather then fab a single turbo setup...I can keep my headers and other stuff intact with this M112... I'll call you on this...Need more info... Like where to get the manifold, brackets, etc...
Your message box on your cell phone is full... You need to check and clear those messages there buddy...You must be a popular man.... Late..
David, I congratulate you on your M112 setup. I remember when my Richwood manifold arrived, and I set my M112 on it for the first time, and said "Holy Sh*t, there's no way!" I started shopping for a twinscrew the next day.
You've persevered with this, and found a solution that appears it'll work fine, and looks good too. I don't know what all the extra machining has cost to reduce the size and the overhang of that M112, but it couldn't have been cheap.
I also don't know how you're going to get your hood closed with this setup, but as you do with everything else, I know you'll find a way.
Well done M8, this is what hotrodding is all about.
One recommendation for you, and anyone else who has a Richwood manifold; my engine builder buddy Dennis felt pretty strongly that those sharply machined edges of the manifold ought to be cleaned up a bit, and a little transition radius put on them. I told him I really wasn't interested in wringing the last bit of HP out of this, but he insisted that it ought to be done to get this setup to flow really well, so there it is, it's done. Sorry, no pics.
BTW, I still have my "brand new" M112 in the garage if someone else wants to do one like David's.
You've persevered with this, and found a solution that appears it'll work fine, and looks good too. I don't know what all the extra machining has cost to reduce the size and the overhang of that M112, but it couldn't have been cheap.
I also don't know how you're going to get your hood closed with this setup, but as you do with everything else, I know you'll find a way.
Well done M8, this is what hotrodding is all about.
One recommendation for you, and anyone else who has a Richwood manifold; my engine builder buddy Dennis felt pretty strongly that those sharply machined edges of the manifold ought to be cleaned up a bit, and a little transition radius put on them. I told him I really wasn't interested in wringing the last bit of HP out of this, but he insisted that it ought to be done to get this setup to flow really well, so there it is, it's done. Sorry, no pics.
BTW, I still have my "brand new" M112 in the garage if someone else wants to do one like David's.
Lextreme II
Active Member
I paid $160 for the machining and we shaved about 3/4 to 1 inch off the M112. The overhand at the rear would not hurt anything at all. Matter of fact I tapped the fuel rail and got the fuel source to the 1600 cc/min injector to the bottom of the manifold. I also found a way to attach my ISC with minimum work.
I guess this what hotrodding is all about. Making something to work regardless what people think. I am very tempeted to put this M112 into my SC470 just for the kick of it. I would not expect to take more then 3-4 hours to install it and perhaps I should take a video of the whole process too.
Jibbby,
I suggest you get Mr. Cribb's M112 and go from there.
I guess this what hotrodding is all about. Making something to work regardless what people think. I am very tempeted to put this M112 into my SC470 just for the kick of it. I would not expect to take more then 3-4 hours to install it and perhaps I should take a video of the whole process too.
Jibbby,
I suggest you get Mr. Cribb's M112 and go from there.
stevechumo
Active Member
I strongly believe the M112 will fit on the Richwood manfold just fine. According to the dimension specs from http://www.planetsoarer.com/boost/boost.htm,a it should fit perfectly. The M90 already fits on some SC400. And even with a shaved off David's supercharger, everything will be fine. I can't wait to see it's done.
stevechumo
Active Member
Here're the pictures on www.planetsoarer.com:
Steve, the M112 in those drawings is not accurate for what David has on his engine, nor what I have in my garage. We both have M112's that Eaton made for the Cobra Mustang.
The M112 shown in those drawings doesn't have the Cobra intake elbow on it, which adds to the overall length. Nor does it have the flanges on the bottom for mating with the Ford manifold/intercooler, which add to the width. David machined these flanges off (at least on the sides).
I still have the adaptor plate that Richwood originally sent to fit my M112, and it does not work, because the M112's in Oz are like those in that drawing. I understand Richwood now make a plate that fits these Cobra M112's, but I think the best way to package these Cobra M112's on the 1UZ is to do just what David did. Those flanges would probably interfere with the fuel system, and they don't add anything to a 1UZ installation.
Have a look at the sketch I made of the dimensions taken from my M112 Cobra supercharger in this post: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=55880&postcount=14 and compare these to those drawing dimensions.
The M112 shown in those drawings doesn't have the Cobra intake elbow on it, which adds to the overall length. Nor does it have the flanges on the bottom for mating with the Ford manifold/intercooler, which add to the width. David machined these flanges off (at least on the sides).
I still have the adaptor plate that Richwood originally sent to fit my M112, and it does not work, because the M112's in Oz are like those in that drawing. I understand Richwood now make a plate that fits these Cobra M112's, but I think the best way to package these Cobra M112's on the 1UZ is to do just what David did. Those flanges would probably interfere with the fuel system, and they don't add anything to a 1UZ installation.
Have a look at the sketch I made of the dimensions taken from my M112 Cobra supercharger in this post: http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showpost.php?p=55880&postcount=14 and compare these to those drawing dimensions.
scotturnot
Member
Cribbj,
What do you want for your 112 and plate? Its somthing I might mees with since I have a lathe and a mill in my shop.
What do you want for your 112 and plate? Its somthing I might mees with since I have a lathe and a mill in my shop.
stilltippin
New Member
Did anybody stop to think that deleting your EGR might not be the best thing? The EGR valve is designed to control combustion chamber temperatures... If that is taken out you are running a lot higher temperatures thus making your cooling system have to work harder, as well as it will break down your oil faster... engine won't last more than a couple years or so.
Scott, I own the charger and plate for $700. Make me a reasonable offer by PM and it's yours. Just a little background on it - I bought it as a "new" unit from a fellow who apparently has some sort of hookup with Ford. This thing flunked Ford's QA/QC program due to some defects in the paint. Mechanically it's supposed to be perfect. As I said before; I didn't use it because when I sat it on top of my Richwood manifold, I could see there was no way for it to work "as is".
As David did it, yes, it'll certainly work, but I'm already committed to my twinscrew now.
Make me a decent offer, and I'll even throw in an 8 rib pulley that Richwood machined for it. That's worth around $150 by itself, since I had to pay Andrew another $300 to make me two pulleys for my Opcon-Autorotor.
As David did it, yes, it'll certainly work, but I'm already committed to my twinscrew now.
Make me a decent offer, and I'll even throw in an 8 rib pulley that Richwood machined for it. That's worth around $150 by itself, since I had to pay Andrew another $300 to make me two pulleys for my Opcon-Autorotor.
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