Hydraulic Fan Pump - Redeployment for PS

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1ndecent

New Member
My stock power steering pump has to make way for turbo manifolds. After toying with the idea of installing a 12V electric pump I decided to go with the hydraulic pump which powered the hydraulic radiator fan in the JDM SC400 the engine came out of.

Unfortunately, several months ago I had chopped the pulley off the this pump, in order to remove the front of the pump. This was required because I needed the pulley gone to clear the belt run I have been using with the AC removed.

The pump pulley covers some of the bolts holding the front of the pump on, and the taper fit pulley required a puller for removal. Because I had already installed and filled the radiator, which prevented access with the puller, I impatiently used an angle grinder to cut the pulley off.

This came back and bit me in the arse, as I have now spent ALOT more time trying to get a pulley back on the pump.

Peewee kindly dropped off another hydraulic fan pump this afternoon, of a slightly different appearance. It is a vane pump made by Aisin. The pump from my motor is a gear pump made by Denso.

Because the two pumps are different, I couldn't swap pulleys. The pilot valve for flow control on the Aisin vane pump has had the wires hacked off flush, and is not interchangeable with the Denso unit, so I can't use the Aisin vane pump.

Now I am really regretting hacking up the pulley on the Denso pump!

I don't suppose anyone in Perth has a spare Denso pulley or Aisin pilot valve?
 
I don't quite understand what your problem is with your pump or idler but I tapped out the right upper bolt on the pump, that bolt goes deep and works great with a universal idler pulley.. Here is a picture of my idea which works vantastic...
 
I have an extra pivot valve if you wan't it and all the missing peices to the pump shown in the pics...Let me know if you need something..I need to mail it to you from the states just pay for postage and the parts are yours for free...
 
Have you looked at the specs of both the fan and power steer pumps, they are VERY different.
 
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The pressure produced by the power steering pump depends on the amount of its flow that is restricted by the steering system. The stock setup will have almost no back pressure on the pump, unless the steering wheel is being turned, or the wheel is held at full lock.

Typically steering action results in a few hundred psi of back pressure on the pump, the exact amount is proportional to the rate at which the steering wheel is turned, and the signal being fed the proportional valve on the steering rack. Increasing the analog voltage fed to this valve causes more of the pump's output flow to be harnessed for steering assistance.

The only time 1000+psi is generated in the system is when the steering wheel is held at full lock, or the pumps output is manually blocked for testing.

Both types of hydraulic fan pump (vane and gear) are easily capable of generating enough pressure to drive the steering. The flow characteristics will be critical to an acceptable result.

I'll keep the thread updated as things progress.
 
Any further word or progress on this?

I would like to do this right now, on a 4x4 to hook it up to the box.
 

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Another possible use for the fan pump would be a low mount turbo oil return pump. It may require a second electric pump and sump to prime but with a cut off switch once running.
 
I haven't done anything with the pump yet, but I am about to install my turbo so I will be looking to make some room in the engine bay.

There is a thread on Toymods describing how to modify the valve in the fan pump.
 
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I've messed around with the Hydraulic fan pump in every way possible...It is sensitive and prone to overheating so be careful...Converting it for any other use and controlling the flow rate is challenging as it is controlled by the stock ECU which triggers the cylinoid to power up the fan... I would like to see if the hydraulic fan bypass can be made to use for the power steering or anything else...I have contemplated the if's for some time now.......Keep us updated...

I ended up deleting my hydraulic fan altogether, then installed the electric fans for cooling....
 
The link mentions a few pictures and stuff? (*I cannot see pictures?) do you need to be a member?

Can anyone get me some pictures of the mods needed to be done? (I will then test it out)

cheers.
 
I'm a member and they were no longer there when I looked. I have PMed the guy who posted them asking for copies. I'll post them here if I get them.
 
thanks mate, as soon as I get the pics I will hook it up..

even if you email me:
davies1981 at gmail.com

the at is one of them @ but I wrote it like that so no spammers get my addy.

P.S. what should I do about the belt? just remove the pump and leave the pulley and bearing?
 
No problem, I'll pass them on as soon as I get them.

Which pulley and bearing do you mean, the top idler? I seem to remember someone posting instructions on how to reverse the internal spring mechanism so it works in the opposite direction. This would suit a belt run with no PS pump.

The fan pump will have to be turned anti-clockwise, assuming you don't run air conditioning you could reverse the tensioner and run the belt like in the first pic.

OR you could get really lextreme, and relocate the alternator as well as shown in the second picture.
 
The first pic may be lacking just a bit on belt grab on the crank pulley...You don't want slippage under big ecceleration...I would go with pic #2 and relocate the alternator.... Just my two cents....
 
To relocate the alternator to the position in photo 2 requires a reverse mount and there's not much to mount it off.

I think photo 1 with the idler reversed is the best option.

There are guys running without the fan idler pulley with very little crank wrap and they don't seem to have any problems. And they have way less wrap than the photo's showing.
 
The problem with picture number is that the belt tensioner is not there. I can play around with my engine and see what i can come up with. Would the hydraulic pump produce enough pressure to power the steering?
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The chap from Toymods no longer has the pictures that were in his thread. He did offer further explanation though: "basically its the hole at the bottom of the thread where the banjo fitting outlet bolts on that needs to be made smaller about 3mm instead of 6mm or so that it is you CANT make the hole in the banjo bolt smaller or anything like than even though it looks to do the same thing it does not because of the very small bleed hole off to the side at the bottom of this threaded hole, ie the restriction needs to be befor this bleed hole"
 


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