Flex-A-Lite Vs Generic Fans

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Lextreme II

Active Member
Last week I had a chance to check out my friend's SC400 with a Flex-A-Lite. At a closer examination on the cooling system. The Flex system runs two 12" fans. Please see picture below:
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I think the price is about $220 for the kit. However, you can do something very similar to the Flex System for about 1/3 less. The two 12" fans house by a plastic housing. However, in order to mount this system into the SC400, you still need to use toggle screw/brackets thru the radiator. There is no difference between the Flex system and generic. They are both need toggle screws to mount to the radiator. I think the two 14" Zigo fans will out cool the Flex system. Here is my electrical fan conversion.

Currently you can get 8 14" Zigo fans for $280 (bulk special). That is about $35 each fan. Two 14" will be $70 dollars plus a $25 relay kit. Less then $100, you have a good cooling fans systems.
 
the LS does not have the hydrolic fan like the SC???

10HP is kinda high.

let's say that your 2 16 inches fan flow as much as the Stock one

2 16 inches suck about 15-20 amps from the battery. about 200 watts.

let's say the stock fanclutch would suck 500 watts to move because of the weight.

500 watts would take about 1/2-1 HP from the engine.

pressurizing air takes a lot of power, moving air is pretty easy.
 
I haven't used those electric fans above but I guess the Flex-A-Lite costs more because it's more quiet and its known brand. Other than that, the generic fan should work the same. Who knows the generic fan is as quiet as the Flex-A-Lite? That is what I would like to find out in the future. :oh: By saving more than $100, I could use that saving for the thermal wrap on the turbo.
 
UZZ30-Québec said:
the LS does not have the hydrolic fan like the SC???

10HP is kinda high.

let's say that your 2 16 inches fan flow as much as the Stock one

2 16 inches suck about 15-20 amps from the battery. about 200 watts.

let's say the stock fanclutch would suck 500 watts to move because of the weight.

500 watts would take about 1/2-1 HP from the engine.

pressurizing air takes a lot of power, moving air is pretty easy.
Quebec -Just to let you know I have an electric fan kill switch...When it is race time I shut them down, no load on engine, nothing but the alternator running the cars normal electric current that is it...Car will never overheat on a 15 to 20 second race even under the NOS or a big fat Turbo...When the race if over you simply hit the button or swich to turn them back on......Temp needle never moves..too much cold water stored in the radiator to overheat in such a short amount of time......People should consider this with electric fans...So there are some gains to be made if you do it right....Electric fans can be very efficient and the noise is nothing...
 
dude, you've got a 4.0 V8, not a 1.5 Civic 4cylinders.

if the amount of current the fans draw when you rance make you loose, I send you 100$ via paypal! ;)

but yes, i understand what you mean, but you must also take in consideration, that the aspiration of your fans when you race, actually pulls the car so it might accelerate harder!

:D i'm joking don,t worry :)

Edited by Lextreme:
Please dont add 30 spaces before your last statement again!
 
That's funny....Stonger electric fans are needed to move the car faster, kinda like a prop plane...He he....

I know that 20amps isn't going to make a difference but I have my kill switch wired into my amp too...Every little pony helps.....A little here a little their it all starts to ad up. I guess...:smileysex
 
Can you really get power gains from an upgraded Alt. over stock? I would not think so if you are still running within the stock Alt. limits. My reasoning is the upgrade just enables you to run more electric current and fun stuff if needed where as the stock ALT may peak and fail...Is that right? Belt drag from the two Alternators should be the same when drawing equal normal electric currents, No?
 
iv got my single electric fan progrmed to come on at certain temp and it seems to be doin the job.it only really kicks in when idling for long periods ov time. ahh the joys of havn an aftermarket computer
 
I think this thread bamboozled me...Just today my flex-a-lite fans failed...The control box and thermo stick are absolute crap that come with the flex fans...The control box fried and I had to hard wire the fans directly to the battery pulled over on a busy street with no tools...Got creative and got them working, temp cooled down and I made it home..Going for the direct ingnition wire to fan hook up..I hate break downs. Embarrassing, untimely, no tools, etc.. My first break down in a long time with this SC of mine....

Again the flex fans are good but the rest of the crap that comes with the fan should be tossed in the garbage...
 
John,

Sorry to hear what had happened to you. Well, it's hard to trust on certain parts that we haven't used before. You can still look into other thermo sensor/relay with better quality. If you have 2 fans, I think it's best to have each sensor on each fan.
 
I use a temperature sensor is very reliable. However, www.partzfinder.com have one that is adjustable. My fans just died yesterday and I am getting two high flow 16" (part number 1610) from partzfinder. This place have the best price and awesome service.
 
Sorry to hear you have a break down John. I tend to put a small tool box in my trunk because I have a few break down (mostly flat tires) and I can help some people that broken down too. As for partzfinder I'm thinking of getting another set of fan for my intercooler like david. I think thats a great idea.
 
Thanks guys no biggie...I am done with heat sensors and control boxes. Simple safe direct wiring is where it is at....The car starts the fans start...The car shuts off the fans shut off....Had to keep in the kill switch as I don't see that being a problem.... I love reliablility.... Just finished wiring everything up and this should be fine and last as long as the fans last.......

The plastic fan control box grounds got toasted I guess from the engine heat over time along with the thermo stick read... I like it better wired up this way and it is maybe more reliable then stock now...
 
Are you using relay or relays? If not you should otherwise, you will burn the ignition wire (key on) The reason i dont do that, because when the engine is cold you dont need the fans.
 
jibbby said:
Thanks guys no biggie...I am done with heat sensors and control boxes. Simple safe direct wiring is where it is at....The car starts the fans start...The car shuts off the fans shut off....Had to keep in the kill switch as I don't see that being a problem.... I love reliablility.... Just finished wiring everything up and this should be fine and last as long as the fans last.......

The plastic fan control box grounds got toasted I guess from the engine heat over time along with the thermo stick read... I like it better wired up this way and it is maybe more reliable then stock now...
You can do that without the thermo sensor/control box, but I think it's safer with a relay. It's because if you wire the fans directly to the ignition line, they'll draw too much current away from the ignition. You may try a different brand of thermo sensor/control box.
 


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