Engine Oil Cooler

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
John,

You've hit the nail on the head.

Why would you risk a US$4-5,000 or Aussie$10,000.00 engine to save $200.00 by using a second hand oil cooler?

Given the amount of labour you need just to remove and replace the engine, before stripping and rebuilding, it just isn't worth it.
 
My entire point was that you can go spend a hundred, or a few hundred bucks on somebody's generic "pretty" oil kit that simply isn't needed on the vast majority of the setups on this site. The stock cooler combined with some other small, cooler is going to be more than enough in any non lextreme situation. There simply is no need to go spend hundreds on such a thing unless you have some underlying reason to do it.

It's like hearing someone say, "oh you better use Aluminum charge piping, or only stainless steel to build that exhaust manifold". ahhhhhhhh the humanity.
Yall do realize that not everyone that would participate in this has, nor wants to spend some ungodly amount of money to do something.
There is nothing wrong with good used parts. That's why they're good, used parts...

(I bet you're also the same type people that every time someone asks why XXX service costs so much at a Lexus dealer. Then I (or someone else) breaks down the actual part & labor costs that explain exactly why it's way more than half the time bullshit. You get offended & have something like, "Oh but it's only XXX the amount of the cost of the car", or "Oh it's only YYY % of a yearly maintenance cost" type of crap to say.)
<smack>
>:\
wtf.gif

I don't see yall bitching about people buying 150-200,000 mile 1uz-fe's for $500-900 on ebay & swapping them into something now do I? No... You applaud them.
"Oh but that's different, a 1uz-fe could last a million miles, it could last forever".
And the oil cooler would still last 10x longer than the motor if you pressure test it when you pick it, clean it & blow it out.
It'd be one thing if if I just said go out & buy some oil cooler with a frickin' crack in it that came off a motor that's siezed up from oil sludging, or a turbocharger off an engine that pukes smoke with chunks missing out of the compressor & bearings so bad simply handling it makes the shaft fly all about.


The only way some of yall would apparently understand this point of view is to give you the exact same type of attitude in return.

Answer this question:
Why do YOU people want to modify what nearly the entire brand name can only be described of as no-performance Toyota LAND BARGES; instead of buying real performance car with real performance potential in the first place...
Let me answer it for you
Because you can.
owned.gif


Give me a break.
I'm so dead serious. One of the things that sets this forum apart from the other Lexi sites is that the people on here that seriously do good work are not snooty about what they do, or try to convey they're in some "special class" on top of the world with setups that try reflect that.


If you can afford a pimp ass setup that's great! - but don't shoot down something perfectly fine for other people just because it's not as spiffy, doesn't cost as much, or doesn't look as good.
 
Toysrme, point taken. Different strokes I guess; I didn't mean for my post to sound snobbish or superior, but I have a strong opinion about used oil coolers.

I learned some hard lessons working with big engines, and one is to not reuse oil coolers unless their past history is well known. Some do, but I still wouldn't put a used cooler on any motor/tranny I'm running or building. This may seem overly anal but that's my philosophy.

A junkyard pull is going to run $10-$20, while a brand new Long Tru-Cool only costs $50-$70, so the $50 saved is just not worth it to me. (And yes, the brand new Tru-Cool gets flushed and blown too before it goes on my engine.)

John
 
cribbj said:
Toysrme, point taken. Different strokes I guess; I didn't mean for my post to sound snobbish or superior, but I have a strong opinion about used oil coolers.

I learned some hard lessons working with big engines, and one is to not reuse oil coolers unless their past history is well known. Some do, but I still wouldn't put a used cooler on any motor/tranny I'm running or building. This may seem overly anal but that's my philosophy.

A junkyard pull is going to run $10-$20, while a brand new Long Tru-Cool only costs $50-$70, so the $50 saved is just not worth it to me. (And yes, the brand new Tru-Cool gets flushed and blown too before it goes on my engine.)

John
I think there´s some missunderstanding, since you´re talking about oil contaminiation and he´s talking about cracks. After have seen 6-7 failures (of various bearings, 3 turbos and so on) that can be traced directly back to contaminated "bargain" oilcoolers (findings of the same debries inside oil cooler core that is in filter before the oil cooler and after pump), I concurr with your opinion. I also have nothing against the use of a used oil-cooler, but one should be certain of the oil coolers history, or it can be a very expensive bargain.
 
Here's another way of doing it. That's the Mocal sandwich type 'stat under the oil filter.

Those two fittings to the left, coming off the oil pump are for my external prelube system. My Supra sits for 4-6 weeks at a time, so before I start it, I prelube it until the oil pressure light goes off, and then I know all the bearings are well lubed. I used the Mocal differential cooler pump for this - works a treat.
 
Dual water cooling the oil = kewl! Ya a stand off is the easiest way. Most Toyota blocks have an area of space around the oil filter, so routing lines is easier than from the side of a block (sometimes).
On the transverse v6's the front motor mount on some models is exactly where the oil filter goes, so Toyota puts an aluminum oil filter standoff. The ends of it are plugged & tapped, giving us 3 places to tap oil. =)
What I've been doing for the last good bit is cutting them in half with the sawzall, grinding the sharp edges off (sharp edges suck) then tapping them for whatever fittings. Basically free remote oil setup & then you really can tap as much oil as you want.


OilSendFitting-FuelT.jpg

Oil-Send.jpg
 
Sorry to dig this up. I'm just wondering if anyone has any examples of oil coolers actually reducing daily running temps of a motor. I've almost got my set up sorted but want to ensure it stays as cool as possible in summer. I don't want to spend all the $ if it doesn't help in non race or FI motors etc.....

Also, I don't have room for a cooler out front, it would be installed at the rear of my 4runner tucked up out of the way.
 
I will be using a transmission oil cooler equiped with a electric pump connected to the oil sump and a electric thermostat off a Ford Probe turbo. Basicly you need to weld 2 fittings on your oil pan, install the electric sensor on the oil pan so it can monitor the oil temp (i will use one off a normal car radiator set to turn on @ 85C-95C, depending on how will the cooler perform and wich is the best for my engine) connect the hoses to the cooler, connect it through a breaker swich to your battery, add a fan to the radiator and tada, your done. Even if there would be any debris left in the cooler all of it will stop in the oil filter. Remember when your engine works it produces some metal chips too (at least some engines do, like ford cvh, LOL) beacuse of normal usage, or brake in. Easy as it can be and i will use this oil cooler on my 4x4 transfer case wich will be having a hard life with the 1uzfe behind the gearbox.
 
What makes you guys feel you need an extra oil cooler? What were you oil operating temps before and after the cooler install. Oil has a higher operating temp than coolant. Are you towing or running high rpm for a long time?
 
I find my oil too hot when operating over 95-100C. When i had my Escort RS Turbo anything over this point meant hydraulic lifter rattling beacause it was too thin. The oil was 10W60 by Valvoline.

My cooler will be operated via a thermo-electric swich, when theres no need for oil cooling there wont be any.

The oil cooler is for track days.
 
The simplest way to control oil temp is to use a thermostat in the oil lines to the cooler.

When the oil is cool the thermostat by-passes the cooler. As the oil heats up the thermostat opens and increases the flow through the cooler until all the oil flows through the cooler.

As the oil temp drops it does the opposite.

Simple effective and reliable.
 
You will find that using a tranny oil cooler for engine oil is not very effective. Ran into this on a GTU RX7 I work on. Used two of those coolers and they were less effective than 1 stock Mazda cooler.

Rod is right you must have an oil thermostat. It is the best way to control oil warm up. Oil should operate at a higher temperature than water. Oil should operate at 212 (100c) to no more than 230. Synthetic can handle higher temps but there is no need to run them that high.

Adding an oil cooler is not always necessary. It just adds volume to the oil system and increases warm up time. If engine oil does not reach proper operating temperatures then you can cause more damage than good.
Oil has to "burn off" contaminates. These contaminates can destroy our All Aluminum engines from the inside out.
 


Back
Top