Engine Oil Cooler

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Lextreme II

Active Member
I am thinking about getting one but i would like to get some feedback on the plumbing of it. From where and to where?
 
They're basically the same setup,an adapter between engine and oil filter with inlet/outlet ports to plumb the lines to/from the cooler.
 
So the oil from the oil filter area like the oil pressure sensor. Where will it return too? Do i need to drill a return line to the oil pan?
 
I've put an engine oil cooler on my car. Its actually quite large.

http://www.earls.com.au/category.php?ID=6 (I've got the biggest one there)

Because I've got a remote oil filter setup I set it up:

engine -> cooler -> oil filter -> engine

That page above also has adapters with a good explanation. Because the pan I had wouldn't let me fit these adapters onto the neck of the oil filter (next to where the oil pressure sender is) I had to make my own adapter on the engine, and alas - still no oil pressure sender on my car.
 
A good oil cooler is a necessity for a hard working engine...

Is there any reason why the filter shouldn't be first in line? Would tend to keep the crap out of the cooler I would have thought...
 
I lean toward filter first.

The oil is thinner and will flow thru the filter with less restiction which means you should end up with a little more flow at the bearings which can't be a bad thing.
 
I have Mocal Ot/2 bypass oil stat, when cold, in the fully closed position, 90%of the oilflow bypasses the cooler and then onto the filter and the opposite is the case when fully open 90% through the cooler and 10% bypass.
I consider this the best setup for a street vehicle that experiences frequent hot cold cylcling as oil temp is kept constant by the thermostat.
Too cool an oil temp from an unrestricted oil cooler flow is also detremental to engine wear.
Which leads people to use cardboard etc to half cover the cooler on cold days.
On a race car they are generally not necessary (oilstats that is) at least in our Aussie climate as oil temp stays up above thermostat opening temp anyway.
 
As I have mentioned before the UK spec LS400's have a factory fitted water cooler jacket fitted into the oil filter housing. This ensures that the oil and water are at the same temperature.

Cheers,

Tony
 
I think from observation that the newer models have water cooled oil coolers. So maybe you could swap one off an LS430 or SC430????
 
I find it strange a vehicle delivered to a "cold-climate" country like the UK would have a water cooled oil cooler and a vehicle delivered to Australia have no additional cooling.

Could it be you actually have an oil heater? Perhaps the engine ran too cool oil temps. On that basis Canada would have had them as well?

A thermostat is an essential in any well built oil cooling system.
 
A thermostat is more complication that I didn't want (more $$ hoses/fittings). I really doubt that any oil thermostat after switching to "on" would ever switch to "off" unless the car was turned off for a couple of hours.

Even with water temps at around 85c the oil temp is still a fair bit higher.

The only reason I'd see about putting a thermostat in would be in cold climates (read ice & snow) where you need to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible.

Theres no fan on the oil cooler so its never going to get to even ambiant temperature. While the car is stationary, and at speed I doubt the oil would get enough air through it to get it too cold.


Of course, this is only personal opinion of what I've seen on my car. (I might try and get some pics of my oil setup)
 
oil stats work in a progressive manner the same as the one in your engine water cooling system.
Constantly varying flow to the cooler, not on off.
I think any engine, regardless of ambient temp, when fitted with a cooler, needs to be brought up to operating temperature as quickly as possible and then kept on a constant to minimise engine wear.
Fitting a thermostaticaly controlled oil cooler is a must in my opinion on any Turbo or super charger converted engine especially, for the obvious reasons of additrional thermal loading and is beneficial in helping prolong turbo and charger bearing life, through helping maintain a constant oil flow rate from minimising temperature related viscosity changes and minimising clearence fluctuations due to component temp variation.
Cheers
Trev
 
I didn't realise it was progressive. Silly me!

Progressively opening would be great. Put the biggest oil cooler you can fit and temps won't change.


Still too much stuffing around for my purpose. Those hoses are bloody expensive (like $300 for 2 hoses & fittings).
 
Too right, Ive have recently spent nearly 2 1/2 grand on speedflow-Earls for my current project and will need more.
I think I have a problem.
Yes, I am a "Speedflowaholic".
Cheers
P.S. not for the bling, for the strength and functionality, as I generally end up covering most of it to prevent abraiding of whatever it touches.
 
About every modern Toyota engine is the same. The oil filter fits onto the block, or a slug of metal shoved into the block. This area has the oil lines (duh) and a coolant line running through it. That's the stock oil coolers.
The easiest way is to take a remote oil filter setup & plumb one after the filter. I wouldn't worry about flow restriction. Toyota engine's historically have lower flow at lower throttle.
Consequently, the bypass inside a Denso oil filter is 14.3psi.


Lextreme, you application is in a different leauge, but for anyone not going so far out power wise, any old generic cooler would work very well. Whatever could be picked up for $5 at a junkyard would be fine.
 

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I would be very wary of buying a secondhand oil cooler without having full knowledge of its history............you never know what detritus could be lodged within those nooks and crannies in the oil cooler , perhaps following an engine breakdown, just waiting to re-enter the oil flow and buggar up your bearing surfaces just as you come on boost...........

I mean, would you buy second hand oil or filter?

Cheers,

Tony
 
I`ve fitted a remote oil filter to my lux and then after it is a oil cooler from a triton, yes I got a brand new one. I have both of them write at the back of the car and have used 1/2 inch hose. Oil pressor still comes up fine on start up. The cooler is approx 400mm x 400mm, I think this size will be good for what I use the lux for. I have also fitted a oil temp gauge so I will be able to let you know what temp the oil runs at in different types of driving.
 
So how does anyone go about testing for trapped metal particles inside a secondhand oil cooler?

Cheers,

Tony
 
You don't; at Cat we used to bin any oil coolers that came from an engine that had had a bottom end failure.

If you "really" want to use a certain oil cooler, you could try alternately back blowing, then backflushing it, but you'd never be 100% sure that you got everything out.

Compared to the cost of a built motor, I wouldn't gamble with a used oil cooler.

John
 


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