electric flex-a-lite cooling fan for SC400 HP gains
- Thread starter jibby
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
3 things.
1) The hydraulic fans move at hurricane force winds
2) Flex-a-lite fans don't move crap compaired to hydraulic fans
3) It doesn't matter if the power comes from the hydraulic, or electrical system, some power will always be lost.
(If you have an OBD-1 car, jump OP1 & E1 in your diagnostic port to put it in high speed. In all seriousness... The BEST Flex-a-Crap will be doing good to move 2/3 of the same amount. The "normal" conversion ones bearly move 1/2 the amount.)
If you're going to go electric, don't use a Flex-alite. Buy a set of electric fans with balls.
Good luck with them!
1) The hydraulic fans move at hurricane force winds
2) Flex-a-lite fans don't move crap compaired to hydraulic fans
3) It doesn't matter if the power comes from the hydraulic, or electrical system, some power will always be lost.
(If you have an OBD-1 car, jump OP1 & E1 in your diagnostic port to put it in high speed. In all seriousness... The BEST Flex-a-Crap will be doing good to move 2/3 of the same amount. The "normal" conversion ones bearly move 1/2 the amount.)
If you're going to go electric, don't use a Flex-alite. Buy a set of electric fans with balls.
Good luck with them!
jibby
New Member
Crap-o-fan and now soon to be flush-o-fan, say it ain't so! That's 300 ballons we are talking about don't say that. Well, it's already half way in the car, too late now. I was always hard headed growing up so I must learn these things on my own. Man, I hope your wrong, yipes!!!! Anyway, I will let you all know if it is a keeper or a sleeper.
Toysrme- What's with the little airplane in your picture I don't get it? Is your car as fast as a plane or toys are me is refering to your Supra being a Toy? Curious what's your Supra 0-60 time or how many horses are under your hood?This is a what you call a desperate attempt to change the subject. See ya--
Toysrme- What's with the little airplane in your picture I don't get it? Is your car as fast as a plane or toys are me is refering to your Supra being a Toy? Curious what's your Supra 0-60 time or how many horses are under your hood?This is a what you call a desperate attempt to change the subject. See ya--
jibby
New Member
Ok, After all this time I finally got around to installing the flex-o-crap electric fan in my 1992 sc400 and have I a couple of questions for you guys.
I am going to loop the oil lines and or bridge the in and out lines from the hydraulic fan pump and I don't know if I should bridge either at the source which is near the pulley's and pump where my two fingers are pointing at, or run the oil through the entire stock system which includes the little cooling radiator, fan tank, lines, etc.. I am wondering if this fan oil flow has a secondary purpose? What do you guys think? I looked at the diagram and it looks as if everything can be removed and the oil lines can be bridged at the source, just want to make sure.
The other question is about disabling the hydraulic fan pump, don't need it running anymore I would guess... Now. from what I can see the sensor and ECU activates the pump when radiator reaches a certain temp, how to disable it so that it will never turn on again, and drain power? If you guys can understand what I just said, I would be grateful for some input on this, I am done for the day and will finish the job tomarrow.....Here are the pics, wow this will free up some seroius room and looks like it will free up a little weight as well if all can be removed....
I am going to loop the oil lines and or bridge the in and out lines from the hydraulic fan pump and I don't know if I should bridge either at the source which is near the pulley's and pump where my two fingers are pointing at, or run the oil through the entire stock system which includes the little cooling radiator, fan tank, lines, etc.. I am wondering if this fan oil flow has a secondary purpose? What do you guys think? I looked at the diagram and it looks as if everything can be removed and the oil lines can be bridged at the source, just want to make sure.
The other question is about disabling the hydraulic fan pump, don't need it running anymore I would guess... Now. from what I can see the sensor and ECU activates the pump when radiator reaches a certain temp, how to disable it so that it will never turn on again, and drain power? If you guys can understand what I just said, I would be grateful for some input on this, I am done for the day and will finish the job tomarrow.....Here are the pics, wow this will free up some seroius room and looks like it will free up a little weight as well if all can be removed....
jibby
New Member
Finished product..... Removed the vanes in the hydro pump, relocated the fan container, and needed to add a small bracket to secure the radiator overflow tank. Also used self tapping screw with rubber washers, a strap, ties, to securely re-locate the fan tank. A little re-wiring and I am good to go. Here are a few pics..
xirforever
New Member
nice man, hows the cooling? And why do you still need the fan tank?
jibby
New Member
Xirforever- Cannot road test yet, don't have my widened rear rims and tires back yet, car is still on blocks.
The fan tank is to keep the disabled hydro pump 100% full of fluid at all times mainly to insure that the bearing is always lubed, more of a precautionary thing more than anything else. I did not feel plugging the lines at the block would work, due to heat expansion, etc.......Plans are to drive this sc on a super hot day in traffic with the A/C on and that will be the true test to see if these fans can cool the car......
The fan tank is to keep the disabled hydro pump 100% full of fluid at all times mainly to insure that the bearing is always lubed, more of a precautionary thing more than anything else. I did not feel plugging the lines at the block would work, due to heat expansion, etc.......Plans are to drive this sc on a super hot day in traffic with the A/C on and that will be the true test to see if these fans can cool the car......
Lextreme II
Active Member
Nice... looks much cleaner.... Now... more room for two turbos.... and some forgies...
jibby
New Member
Thanks Lex, turbos and forgies are the plan later on down the road. Just doing all the basic's first, you know header's, electric stuff, drivetrain, etc. Then with a little more broad knowledge about forced air induction, I will give it a go... I am still a rookie, but I am learning fast thanks to this forum.....Oh, I am going to steam clean this engine soon, it still looks dirty to me..See ya
Jibby,
Don't steam clean the engine or use any form of pressurised water on it. Steam cleaning or waterblasting the engine can cause problems with some sensors. The sensors are not designed to withstand the heat or pressure involved.
Try this link. http://planetsoarer.com/engine/clean.htm
Don't steam clean the engine or use any form of pressurised water on it. Steam cleaning or waterblasting the engine can cause problems with some sensors. The sensors are not designed to withstand the heat or pressure involved.
Try this link. http://planetsoarer.com/engine/clean.htm
jibby
New Member
Final thoughts and test results on dual fan swap - In contrary to what some thought was a bad idea to go with the electric fan swap, I must say I am pleased with all the final results and forsee no problems what so ever. The car cools fine either running nos, or on a hot day with A/C on!!!! etc... Crisper excelleration noticed, could be a combination of cap/rotor change and fan, but I think mostly the fan. There is no noticeable drag on the engine when the hydraulic pump use to turn on full blast during hot running times. The engine noticeably runs stronger on hot days.....which was suprising but makes sense. Not much difference noticed at night time driving or in cold weather.. The only draw back I can see is these fans are slightly noisier then the stock Hydraulic fan when the car is hot and idling. This is not a big deal and can't really notice the noise difference... The freed up engine space is most impressive part.
Hear is the final wiring picks which I forgot to include in earlier posts. I positioned the thermo stick at the top of the radiator sticking it into the radiator fins and pushing it threw to the back side. Pushed the stick in tight between the plastic cover and back plating as shown in pics, it is going no where. I wired the ignition relay which is shown in the picture at the closest locating ignition wiring source. You may be able to see that in the pic where my finger is pionting at. The fan now shuts down when the car shuts down regardless of thrermo temp sensor. I used ties and tubing sleeves to insultate the wiring from the engine bay heat. The electric box for the dual fan was mounted on the sub frame next to the battery close to all wiring sources and this is directly in line with the serp belt again shown in pic. I used the existing screw and hole to mount tightly onto sub frame, no modifications needed. JOB OVER.....I can honestly recommend the mod if the job is done like this.
Hear is the final wiring picks which I forgot to include in earlier posts. I positioned the thermo stick at the top of the radiator sticking it into the radiator fins and pushing it threw to the back side. Pushed the stick in tight between the plastic cover and back plating as shown in pics, it is going no where. I wired the ignition relay which is shown in the picture at the closest locating ignition wiring source. You may be able to see that in the pic where my finger is pionting at. The fan now shuts down when the car shuts down regardless of thrermo temp sensor. I used ties and tubing sleeves to insultate the wiring from the engine bay heat. The electric box for the dual fan was mounted on the sub frame next to the battery close to all wiring sources and this is directly in line with the serp belt again shown in pic. I used the existing screw and hole to mount tightly onto sub frame, no modifications needed. JOB OVER.....I can honestly recommend the mod if the job is done like this.
good work, i'm glad to see you take action with the car rather than worry about so many others' opinions. I do like the stock setup, but yes this will be good if you go to forced induction. BTW, did you have to pull any timing or any other tuning for your dry nos system, or you just dump it in there and it works.
With due respect to all concerned, others' "opinions" on these Flex-a-Lite fans are based on hard evidence gained with the 2JZ-GTE Supras. These fans have been proven conclusively to not work well in the Supra application by a number of owners.
If they appear to work OK in the middle of winter for an SC400 squeezing a bit of juice once in awhile, that's great, however IMHO it's not conclusive.
I would be curious to see how well they work in the summer, with a 90-100 ambient temperature, and as the horsepower approaches that of a stock TT Supra (320 BHP).
John
If they appear to work OK in the middle of winter for an SC400 squeezing a bit of juice once in awhile, that's great, however IMHO it's not conclusive.
I would be curious to see how well they work in the summer, with a 90-100 ambient temperature, and as the horsepower approaches that of a stock TT Supra (320 BHP).
John
of course there is going to be less heat in his sc400 than a turbo charged car, and with cams and headers he should be able to make 320hp without the same amount of heat as a forced induction vehicle making more specific hp per liter. I'm just saying i hope this works out for him as he spent quite a bit of money and time.
jibby
New Member
Jterry- The Hyper Voltage Regulator stabilizes and helps regulate and steady the electrical current flow, example: No dimming, fading, brightening of lights when idling or excellerating, cleaner electric flow throughout the vehicle, I guess... That is how I can best describe what it did for me...
Wdoherty- Thanks for the compliment but I do try to listen to others with more experience then me.. I am not that bold as to defy the experts in most cases. To tell you the truth if I had not already bought this dual flex fan before this thread started I would not have gone for the swap. Since I had the fan already and could not return it I had to give it a try. I just figured Summit Racing and the manufacturing company selling this dual fan specifically made the claim and labeled the fan specifically for a the V8 SC400 Lexus. So taking that into consideration you would have to think they (the company/summit/etc) must have done some testing on the cooling factors for the SC400 V8 motor, etc... That was my thinking and it seemed to work out.. Besides even it it didn't work out, I would have got the large version 16 inch blade electric cooling fans like Lex has on his turbo'd LS400. The dual electric fans work just fine on the Sc400's in all weather conditions....
In regards to the nos I did use a piggy-back ECU to tweak the air/fuel ratio to have the car run just a little rich, also installed a high flow Walbro Electric Fuel pump and cooler running autolite nos spark plugs. I played it real safe with my nos and also set it up for the possibility of a larger nos shot in the future. However, I am just about maxing out the volume capacity on the stock injectors, so larger injectors would be needed most likely on a 200hp nos shot. On a nos shot of 100hp or less I am pretty sure you can get away without tweaking anything other then maybe the spark plugs....
cribby - Cribs with all due respect I am hard living proof that the dual fan works just fine on the SC400 in all weather conditions. It is 85 degrees today in LA California, we don't have winters here really. I was in traffic just today with the car and with the Air Conditioner running for atleast 20 minutes on full blast. Temp needle is steady if not cooler then if it were running the stock hydro fan.. Now Cribs considering what you said just maybe I am cooling better because I have a slightly mod'd brand new radiator, new coolant, and no under engine cover so there is more air flow throughout. That also could be adding to the cooling efforts but I really dought it. In addition to that as you can see I really took the time and effort to do this install correctly. So unless these Supra's run much hotter then my sc400 and require greater cooling efforts, I would have to disagree with you in regards to them failing on the SC400's on the hottest of days... You may be wrong on this one concerning the sc400's.....
My biggest concern on this swap and only concern now is that the hydraulic pulley pump bearing may be overheating, only time will tell. I heard a little squeeling noise for a minute today and quickly opened the hood and it went away. If the hydo pump pulley bearing overheats I figure it will make that kind of noise before failing. So I will keep a close eye on it and know more in a few weeks. If the pump bearing fails I will remove the pump and pulley completely and loop a shorter serp belt and bypass the pump pulley altogether. I will just hope for no serb belt slipage from the crank pulley as the grab will be greatly reduced. The cooling part is not a concern or issue and won't be from this point forward......Man that was a story, sorry......
Wdoherty- Thanks for the compliment but I do try to listen to others with more experience then me.. I am not that bold as to defy the experts in most cases. To tell you the truth if I had not already bought this dual flex fan before this thread started I would not have gone for the swap. Since I had the fan already and could not return it I had to give it a try. I just figured Summit Racing and the manufacturing company selling this dual fan specifically made the claim and labeled the fan specifically for a the V8 SC400 Lexus. So taking that into consideration you would have to think they (the company/summit/etc) must have done some testing on the cooling factors for the SC400 V8 motor, etc... That was my thinking and it seemed to work out.. Besides even it it didn't work out, I would have got the large version 16 inch blade electric cooling fans like Lex has on his turbo'd LS400. The dual electric fans work just fine on the Sc400's in all weather conditions....
In regards to the nos I did use a piggy-back ECU to tweak the air/fuel ratio to have the car run just a little rich, also installed a high flow Walbro Electric Fuel pump and cooler running autolite nos spark plugs. I played it real safe with my nos and also set it up for the possibility of a larger nos shot in the future. However, I am just about maxing out the volume capacity on the stock injectors, so larger injectors would be needed most likely on a 200hp nos shot. On a nos shot of 100hp or less I am pretty sure you can get away without tweaking anything other then maybe the spark plugs....
cribby - Cribs with all due respect I am hard living proof that the dual fan works just fine on the SC400 in all weather conditions. It is 85 degrees today in LA California, we don't have winters here really. I was in traffic just today with the car and with the Air Conditioner running for atleast 20 minutes on full blast. Temp needle is steady if not cooler then if it were running the stock hydro fan.. Now Cribs considering what you said just maybe I am cooling better because I have a slightly mod'd brand new radiator, new coolant, and no under engine cover so there is more air flow throughout. That also could be adding to the cooling efforts but I really dought it. In addition to that as you can see I really took the time and effort to do this install correctly. So unless these Supra's run much hotter then my sc400 and require greater cooling efforts, I would have to disagree with you in regards to them failing on the SC400's on the hottest of days... You may be wrong on this one concerning the sc400's.....
My biggest concern on this swap and only concern now is that the hydraulic pulley pump bearing may be overheating, only time will tell. I heard a little squeeling noise for a minute today and quickly opened the hood and it went away. If the hydo pump pulley bearing overheats I figure it will make that kind of noise before failing. So I will keep a close eye on it and know more in a few weeks. If the pump bearing fails I will remove the pump and pulley completely and loop a shorter serp belt and bypass the pump pulley altogether. I will just hope for no serb belt slipage from the crank pulley as the grab will be greatly reduced. The cooling part is not a concern or issue and won't be from this point forward......Man that was a story, sorry......
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