Project Thread Bryan's Twin turbo'd 1uz Supra thread

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.

viper92086

New Member
I have a build thread already on supramania.com. but i figured i'd throw up some pictures here as well. As for some quick specs i will be using twin stock ct-26's i had leftover from my 7m motor. I will also be using a maftpro setup with 7mge green injectors (315cc i beleive). This is the same computer setup as another member on this forums. Also already installed into the car is a walboro 255 pump.

Here is the link to the thread http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96332

I will mostly be posting pictures (cut and paste from supramania) here of the process. If you need any more details please log into supramania.com.





Day1

Bought a sc400 1uz with ecu for $400 on craigslist. Motor has 85k. I am still in need of a engine harness. I never realized how hard it is to find one!
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Day2
So i got my old 7m outta the bay and we are working on some custom mounts. After pulling the 1uz close to half a dozen times i think we finally figured out what we are going to do. Luckly the stock 1uz engine mounts are fairly close in proximity to the pre89 mounts on the subframe so our plan is to cut off the pre89 subframe mounts and reweld them in such a way it will work with the 1uz mounts.
I also ordered my w58 adapter and flywheel from uza70.com, so hopefully those will come in soon. I just need to find a engine harness now. If anyone knows where i can find one cheap, let me know.

the poopra feelin a bit empty
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mmm tight fit, i'm going to modify the brake booster with a big ol hammer.
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so i did some more test fitting and i just hit a speed bump.... radiator wont fit.. doh... so i have 2 choices.. get rid of the TT project or shift the radiator to where the condensor was... well i went with plan B. i'm on a lookout for a radiator that will fit in the condensor location with minor adjustments. Also does anyone know if it matters which way a radiator flows? i found a 3 row mishimoto that may work but to route the hoses cleanly, the flow is reversed. on for pics! (approximate location where turbo will sit)

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got home early today so i was able to do some custom trans work. I still need to mount the slave cylinder. but so far it works like it should. excuse my redneck fab skillz lol, im just a young guy with a grinder :) on with the pics!
first pic shows the size difference of the w58 bellhousing and the 1uz.
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Thats better. thanks to jacks adapter :)
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first step to gettin the shift fork setup to work is to cut out the pivot from the stock w58 bell housing
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pics how how the pivot mounts. I also shaved the pivot down because the adapter makes the pivot about 1/4" higher than it should. THis was fixed my grinding down the factory pivot location then rethreading it.
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all that was left was to cut a hole in the side and viola! i will be installing a rubber boot on it when i'm done.
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Supra runs! after Mike's help with the wiring and some small grounding issues (forgot to ground the ignitor). the motor runs!. i'm so excited to get this project closer to getting done. i have most of the codes gone, i just have to figure out the maft. i also found out i had a bad spark plug wire so as you can see in the videos below it sounds kinds funny. (fixed it in the second video but i gotta order new wires.) i sent mike a updated copy of the wiring so hopefully he'll host it up. time for some pictures and videos for your viewing pleasure
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mmmm tight spaces.. i have to fit a 3" exhuast down this side somehow along with the turbo headers
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shot of the driver side.
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had to take a shot of the battery that i will soon be using :)

vids (cover your ears)
http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h57/viper92086/1uz/?action=view&current=MOV04779.flv
first start up
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after fixing the broken plug wire
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SO this past day was alot of busy work, i started making the turbo manifolds and we got most of the manifold welding done then we ran out of welding gas.. so i'm stuck there until i can get time to run over to a shop. i wish they were open on weekends.. that would make life so much easier. but here are the pics. nothing really has been cleaned up yet. the passenger side turbo will be shifted outwards a tad still. i also need to install a flange so i can remove that turbo just in case the alternator goes. But these pics will give you an idea of how everything will lay out. All the exhuast pipes are pretty much tac welded. (my first time welding, my buddy was busy so he couldnt help me tac)
on with the pics :)
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SO i guess im long overdue for a picture update. On friday i was able to finish cutting up the pipes with the grinder and then on saturday my buddy came over and welded me up the pipes. i still need to grind down some of the welds because i want the pipes to be somewhat smooth. I'm stuck on what i am going to do about the oil return line right now.. everything is such an absolute tight fit that i have no idea where i can fit the fittings. I was also able to pick up 96 altima power steering and lines (the high pressure line fits! whhoohoo) Please keep in mind that i am just your average car buff, most of you are probably in the same spot as me with only a hand grinder and some rachets and motivation. Both me and my welder buddy graduated with IT degrees, so you can see how far off this kind of work is to our careers and we are learning as we go, but it's a whole lota fun. Hope this motivates some of you guys.
on with the pics:
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Here is a shot of my new rad support. in case you didnt know, my new rad is sitting where the condensor used to be. (angle of the picture makes it look crooked, but it realy isnt)
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Glad to see you got the adapter plate and flywheel in :)

Very unique way to use a fork setup instead of the intended Howe bearing!

Cannot wait to see it when its done, what are your goals?
 
Nice work having a crack at it all yourself.

From experience your W58 isn't going to last very long though sorry. 3rd gear went in mine at 265rwkw, and in two other mate's cars at 280rwkw and 250rwkw.

It's the torque that does it obviously but that's the hp level we were around when they went bang....and they do go bang :(
 
Nice work having a crack at it all yourself.

From experience your W58 isn't going to last very long though sorry. 3rd gear went in mine at 265rwkw, and in two other mate's cars at 280rwkw and 250rwkw.

It's the torque that does it obviously but that's the hp level we were around when they went bang....and they do go bang :(
I heard the W58 wouldn't last for those Supra MKIV when they boost over 350 rwhp. They didn't mention about the tq, but as we know the inline 6 didn't have that much tq as the V8. However, you can order a hi-performance rebuild kit from www.importperformancetrans.com. They're the vendor on the forum.
 
Nice work..... Very clean design too. Keep it up and more pics...

thanks!

Glad to see you got the adapter plate and flywheel in :)

Very unique way to use a fork setup instead of the intended Howe bearing!

Cannot wait to see it when its done, what are your goals?


yes that adapter plate is amazing i was about to make my own too and then when i got this one i was so glad i didnt. i also couldn't justify spending another 300ish on the howe setup for something that looked so easy to adapt, i just have to figure out how i'm going to mount the slave as of now.

Nice work having a crack at it all yourself.

From experience your W58 isn't going to last very long though sorry. 3rd gear went in mine at 265rwkw, and in two other mate's cars at 280rwkw and 250rwkw.

It's the torque that does it obviously but that's the hp level we were around when they went bang....and they do go bang :(


i had this trans on my old 7mge-t making 300rwhp and 340tq for 3 years. It's been through at least 5 road race events and no major problems. I never drag race or do burnouts on the trans. i figured the trans is also very cheap to replace if i do have a problem. No need spending alot of money on a r154 + new clutch when my trans is still good and the clutch has about 3k on it.

Nice work man!!


thanks!

I heard the W58 wouldn't last for those Supra MKIV when they boost over 350 rwhp. They didn't mention about the tq, but as we know the inline 6 didn't have that much tq as the V8. However, you can order a hi-performance rebuild kit from www.importperformancetrans.com. They're the vendor on the forum.

if i have to do that then thats what i'll do lol, baby steps
 
as for planned power output.. i have no idea lol. i was just going to max out my two stock ct26's to 13psi and get it tuned. i mean 1 ct26 made 300rwhp on a 7mge (200hp factory). i dont see why two can't make at least 350rwhp or more. i just hope the lag isnt too bad. i was reading up on how the mr2's (2.0L) use the factory supra ct-26's as upgrades without changing the exhuast housing and some said its not bad, so i guess i'll be the guinea pig. i figured even if it doesnt make godly power, it'll still be a badass swap to say i did and have.
 
i had this trans on my old 7mge-t making 300rwhp and 340tq for 3 years. It's been through at least 5 road race events and no major problems. I never drag race or do burnouts on the trans. i figured the trans is also very cheap to replace if i do have a problem. No need spending alot of money on a r154 + new clutch when my trans is still good and the clutch has about 3k on it.

And i'm talking approx 350rwhp with closer to 400 ftlbs ;-) we didn't all just imagine our boxes going bang mate ;-) A friendly warning from those have already been there...you get tired of swapping out blown boxes pretty quickly :biglaugh:
 
And i'm talking approx 350rwhp with closer to 400 ftlbs ;-) we didn't all just imagine our boxes going bang mate ;-) A friendly warning from those have already been there...you get tired of swapping out blown boxes pretty quickly :biglaugh:
He may get tired, but his spirit may still live on. :newangel:
 
Please keep in mind that i am just your average car buff, most of you are probably in the same spot as me with only a hand grinder and some rachets and motivation. Both me and my welder buddy graduated with IT degrees, so you can see how far off this kind of work is to our careers and we are learning as we go, but it's a whole lota fun. Hope this motivates some of you guys.
on with the pics:

I'm right there with ya!! I fix appliances for a living, electrical work at my club for fun, and tinker in the garage because I have a need for speed, nothing flash just what works and looks right.

Nice work so far, I'm planning the same sort of turbo setup.

Ken.
 
Hey Nigel,

Give the guy some credit, he's not doing that bad. I've been homegrown turbo system her on lextreme that are worse in design and workmanship. We all gotta start somewhere.
 
I love to see people having a go really I do, but these a few things that I think should be said because, well, .. everyones being all encouraging and I see serious issues with this project.

The workmanship is pretty red-neck-wonder-car-ish.

I'm sure your a neat guy, and smart as a tack, so I've got a few suggestions that I think will make a big difference in your project.

Learn to weld. Take a class, practise more, your welding is pretty shocking, the number of pin holes that will show up under pressure in that exhaust system will mean that it's going to have to be re-done. The join on the two elbow pipes is utter rubbish, that MUST be redone, it's patchy, looks like crap, will probably leak, and is basically just bad workmanship, you can do better, it's just laziness.

Welding is a great skill to have, and the fabrication and workmanship I see in the photos is "slap-happy". Thats ok, it's just steel and time, you can re-do it without losing your design at all. a weld should be a continious bead, sitting within a V in between the two peices of metal, not on top, not tracing of to one direction..... etc...etc. The strength in a weld is not the bead its the melted metal thats been joined by the weld. If I were to show you a x-ray of your welds I think we would see about 20% of it was actual weld and the rest was melted welding wire sitting on top of the join or in between it.

I'm not saying this to be mean, I'm being honest, learn to weld, properly.

For gods sake, dont work with dirty car parts. Clean them, the grease travels everywhere, clean the parts before you put them back into the car, clean when you remove them, take pride in your project and take good care of your working environment. You cant produce high quality work, when your wallowing in grease and grime.

Buy 200 plastic bags and maker pen. Remove a bolt or a whatever, put the bolts into the bag, mark it and seal it. (YES CLEAN EACH BOLT with a wire brush). you'll never have little plastic containers of bolts that no-one knows what they are for. (*sigh* newbies :P).

I'm not trying to be an assh__e, I'm offering what I consider to be constructive criticism, seriously man, you need to tac weld your exhaust manifolds and take them to someone that can actually weld properly and have them do it, your home welder is NOT penetrating well enough.

I really do hope your project works out, but I think you seriously need to reconsider your workmanship, and approach, lift the game up a bit, get a bit more professional in your approach, and you WILL have a better result.

Cheers,
Nigel



oh and that alternators going to fry if you dont sheild it from the heat



don't worry its all been cleaned up and redone, i just don't have pictures of it all since then. i probably wont have pics because i already high temp por15'd everything and started wrapping some of the pipes. there will be a heat sheild for the alt and pipes will all be wrapped. its gonna be cutting it close, but i'm sure it will be fine.
 
everyone loves pictures. so here's what i got done today, i figured out the slave cylinder for the trans which fits perfect btw and only needed a little grinding and some screws. i lost access to one of the bell housing bolts but i dont think it will be that big of a deal since two of the bolts are right next to each other. i also por15'd my pipes previously this week so i was able to wrap them. i also decided to take a shot of the motor. i'm pretty sure the motor will be going back in the bay this week once i figure out how to get rid of some of the extra wiring. i'm so glad this is finally coming together, i'm getting sick of not being able to drive the car lol. oh and i reclocked both my turbo's, i found out one of them is leaking oil (very pissed) so if anyone has a good condition one or recently rebuilt stocker please let me know :) no cracked wastegates!
btw blackberry camera phone ftw
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Are you supporting the turbos up the front of the engine or is there no real need too? I would have thought the weight of the turbos would have been a lot for the exhaust manifold studs.

Totally uneducated assumption though....
 
Are you supporting the turbos up the front of the engine or is there no real need too? I would have thought the weight of the turbos would have been a lot for the exhaust manifold studs.

Totally uneducated assumption though....
You're right that they need to be supported by the braces. Otherwise, the flanges will start leaking and maybe the weak joints at the weld.
 
The front primery on turbo manifold worries me alittle ??
If it can be turned and welded in same direction as flow
it will help big time..
 
Are you supporting the turbos up the front of the engine or is there no real need too? I would have thought the weight of the turbos would have been a lot for the exhaust manifold studs.

Totally uneducated assumption though....

yup if you look closely the turbo flanges are actually mounted to the motor using 1/2" steel (its all i had laying around)

The front primery on turbo manifold worries me alittle ??
If it can be turned and welded in same direction as flow
it will help big time..

ignore the turbo directions for now lol, both will be facing down. from there there will be a 90 degree turn right into the intercooler. i mounted the manifolds today and 1 turbo, i found out my other one may be leaking oil so for now i will just have it as a mock up till i find another one.
 


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