Another update on rdms TT sc400..

The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I investigated this as well...It is a great idea, but the benefit was so small, I did not think it worth it, so I did not go with it either...

Ryan
 
In your photo, you have the bolt tab running in line with the oil passage. It needs to be to the side, like in the diagram, so it doesn't it the oil galley
Bob,

You have to be careful with the tap. The oil gallery is very thin. It about 1/8" thick aluminum. To stable the oil ject I would suggest you weld on an aluminum piece to the it down tight.
 
Sorry, but I have to disagree with the engine builder. I have rebuild several motors that had squirters and have never had a problem to this day. On top of all that, I dont/cant see why a builder cant get within the factory tolerances.

Now on a different note about the squirter, they really offer no benifit for normal everyday street use unless its a motor that is under constant heavy power loads like a truck engine that is constantly hauling heavy loads, or a road race engine that spends far more time under heavy power loads then under light power loads. IMHO, turbo motors stand possibly a small benifit if any at all from having them. Again, this is just my oppinion based on what I have seen in motors that I have dealt with.

I have to agree with CJSupra almost 100% but I think the pistons in a turbo motor benifit alot, the oil helps keep the temp in the piston down, and much more stable. but thats also my oppinion
But every high performance Toyota motor, and every turbo Toyota motor I've ever seen comes with them.
 
Bob,

You have to be careful with the tap. The oil gallery is very thin. It about 1/8" thick aluminum. To stable the oil ject I would suggest you weld on an aluminum piece to the it down tight.

I don't think were understanding each other.
In the photo you have the squiter tab parallel with the oil galley, and if you drilled & taped it, the bolt would go in the galley also.
If you turn the tab about 40-45 degrees the hole drilled for the bolt will only be in the aluminum of the block & the squiters are in the corner of each cylinder.
The way you have it pictured (If installed that way) may also hit the connecting rod.
I'll take some photos of mine, and post what I'm talking about.
 
rdm is right,, the squirters are installed with oil squirting on the "bottom" of the piston--this, the oil, is what helps cool the piston.. this can be very helpful in a turbo car because of the sudden high temps the pistons sometimes see..
toyota does use the squiters in the 2jz/supra,, as well as other cars...
installing the squirters on the early1 uz is not an easy proposition--this is probably the reason the engine builders decided not to attempt this..

because the early 1uz was never intended to have squirters, there is no provision for them in the block.. basicaly, there is not a flat surface to install them onto.. you need to deal with a oil gally "hill/lump".. BUT,, it is possible.. --and can be beneficial in a high performance turbo engine..
 
Chris,

I don't its the difficulty. The 2006 2UZFE came with them. So just copying the configuration is all you need. We decided not to install them due to above reasons. Hey the builder will make more money because of more work.
 
Chris & I decided we wanted to use oil squirters in our application. Here are some photos of the squirters as we were putting them in.
Hopefully you can see what I meant by the squirter should be turned slightly so the squirted is put in the corner of the cylinder to avoid the rod, and piston.
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.


In the last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL
 
oilers

Looking Good ! Any Outstanding race engine on market has some sort of piston oiler; certainly can't hurt. Now just fasten the last two oilers and clean out the oil galley for chips and burs.I've found that heavy grease on drill bit acts as a good collector for aluminum chips. As if you didn't know.
Keep us all posted as there is great interest in your project.
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL !
POPS
 
Thanks John, & Happy New Year to you also.
Those are special Oil Squirters I got from a good buddy. (Look Frimular?)
The bottom end, and 1 head are back together. I just got to tired the other day to keep going. Thought I would start making mistakes.
Chris & I did a good job of cleaning everything before assembly.
lots of blue job towels, and brake cleaner.
You Chris & I will be causing trouble on the streets of Chi-town by spring time.:saevil:
 
Chris & I decided we wanted to use oil squirters in our application. Here are some photos of the squirters as we were putting them in.
Hopefully you can see what I meant by the squirter should be turned slightly so the squirted is put in the corner of the cylinder to avoid the rod, and piston.
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.


In the last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL

Nice work Bob...

Ryan
 

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Hey guys, Well the motor is back together for the 3rd time with out ever running. Finally made up my mind "I guess LOL"
Anyway, I have a couple photos of the 6-Speed clutch bolted on the car. I think Chrisman had posted a few of these before, but that was the set photos. These are the real thing ready to go.
The Adpter ring for the Getrag needed to be clearenced for the starter, so that should take a couple days.
Hope you like it.
 
Bob,

Very nice. Who made the adaptor plate?
attachment.php
 
Chris did. Chrisman
I think he had this done or started before cowboy did it, or we might have gone that route.
It is 1 solid ring instead of 2 which bolt tobether.
When Chris fit it, the starter wasn't on the block, and the nose, and the 2 bolts which hold it are in the way.
we probably could just use different 14mm bolts for the starter rather then they unique head ones toyota uses.
Live & learn.
 
Very nice work, Bob...love your dedication to excellence.

Looking forward to hearing how well everything works out on the 6 speed.

Ryan
 
Bob,

Your dedication is admirable. After you finished this Getrag tranny project, could you put up the details of the completed parts and who or where you got them?
 
Hey all,

Now thats an interesting way for a making a flywheel fit the starter ringgear on the flexplate, where's the flywheel and clutch pack from IOf I may ask? and the gertragbox is that a BMW M5 one perhaps?

regards Thomas
 
Bob,

Your dedication is admirable. After you finished this Getrag tranny project, could you put up the details of the completed parts and who or where you got them?

Steve, your gonna make me go back, and look at all the $$ I spent aren't ya.
I will try though.


Hey all,

Now thats an interesting way for a making a flywheel fit the starter ringgear on the flexplate, where's the flywheel and clutch pack from IOf I may ask? and the gertragbox is that a BMW M5 one perhaps?

regards Thomas

Hey Thomas, The trans I am using is a 6-speed Getrag off of a TT Supra. 94 i belive from the date code.
I have heard that some of the BMW's use this same trans V-160 with a different bellhousing, & since you have to make an adapter it probably wouldn't make a difference either way.
The clutch is made by QuarterMaster.
by using the flexplate/ringgear they can use the same clutch on many different applications.
They simply mill the flywheel to fit the back of the crank, and fit the trans input shaft splines to the discs, which they can do in house.
the overall diameter, ring gear doesn't have to be messed with at all.
They claim it's a huge cost, and time saver.
 
Hey Guys, Chris & I got the Transmission mated up to the motor last night.
it was actually a pain.
Taking it out while in the car is going to suck!
Anyway, here are some photos!
motortrans2dc3.jpg

motortrans3uu3.jpg

motortrans4ru9.jpg


Sorry, this photo kept coming out blurry. it kind of hard to take a picture inside the bell housing.
This is a photo of the clutch, and throw out bearing.
motortrans5et5.jpg
 
Chris & I decided we wanted to use oil squirters in our application. Here are some photos of the squirters as we were putting them in.
Hopefully you can see what I meant by the squirter should be turned slightly so the squirted is put in the corner of the cylinder to avoid the rod, and piston.
We also noticed that the aftermarket rods (Pauter) don't have an oiling hole that the stock rods did have. the oiling hole supplies oil to the bottom of the piston, and the piston pin.
If your thinking of running an aftermarket rod, and don't want to run the squirters, make sure you have the manufacturer put the oiling hole back in, or it may lead to a piston/pin problem.


In the last photo you can see the squirter in the bottom right corner of the piston (If round pistons have corners) LOL

Hey Chris and Bob: I have been closely watching your most excellent build...As I mentioned somewhere, your argument for the oil squirters has convinced me to do them as well...Thanks for your dedication to explaing your reasoning and the process. Can you tell me, once the surface of the oil galley was milled flat, did you weld a small flat piece to it to help stabilize the squirters? I cannot see it in the pics...

Any details of the install is greatly appreciated...

Thanks,

Ryan
 


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