Another update on rdms TT sc400..
- Thread starter chrisman
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Bent a Rod
Well while assembling the 1UZ Chris noticed that a piston was moving funny, or actually was having trouble moving correctly.
We took the rod n piston back out, and noticed that the bronze bushing in the rod end had grabbed the piston pin. (If you look in the pictures you can see the oil hole is to the left, and it should be straight up on the top.)
The pin wasn't moving freely like it should.
After close inspection we noticed the the rod also was bent.
We don't know for sure what caused this.
I took a couple pictures and tried to put the rod on grid paper to help show the bend. The rod has some funny spots on it, but they didn't show up in the picture. It hard to see them with the naked eye at first.
These pictures show a very slight bend to the right, as the rod sits in the photo, but the top of the rod is also slightly bent which would be front to back as the rod sits. So the piston pin twisted one side of the rod down so that the piston pin, and the crank are no longer on the same plane. Does that make sense?
Well while assembling the 1UZ Chris noticed that a piston was moving funny, or actually was having trouble moving correctly.
We took the rod n piston back out, and noticed that the bronze bushing in the rod end had grabbed the piston pin. (If you look in the pictures you can see the oil hole is to the left, and it should be straight up on the top.)
The pin wasn't moving freely like it should.
After close inspection we noticed the the rod also was bent.
We don't know for sure what caused this.
I took a couple pictures and tried to put the rod on grid paper to help show the bend. The rod has some funny spots on it, but they didn't show up in the picture. It hard to see them with the naked eye at first.
These pictures show a very slight bend to the right, as the rod sits in the photo, but the top of the rod is also slightly bent which would be front to back as the rod sits. So the piston pin twisted one side of the rod down so that the piston pin, and the crank are no longer on the same plane. Does that make sense?
yes,, i wish bob could get a close up pick of the side of the rod.. if you look closely,, you can see the metal is deforming/stretching..
in any case,, it would have failed..its actually lucky that we caught this now before a catastrophic failre..
by the way,, there was not anything wrong with this cylinder previous to the teardown.. the teardown was performed on the engine because of a lean codition on the other side/bank of the engine..
in any case,, it would have failed..its actually lucky that we caught this now before a catastrophic failre..
by the way,, there was not anything wrong with this cylinder previous to the teardown.. the teardown was performed on the engine because of a lean codition on the other side/bank of the engine..
Lextreme II
Active Member
That sucks Bob. If you need spare rods, please let me know. I have 4 at home.....
Hey Guys, Chris & I have been playing with another project. Chris had a TT Corvette at the shop, and it got me motivated to move back on the Lexus again.
I took a Spare rod out of another motor we had at the shop (Thanks for the offer David),
And I plan on getting the motor & Trans mated, and ready to be put in the car by hopefully Thursday 10/19
John, your welcome to come by and lend a hand if youd like. Your always welcome, Just keep your finger outa chris ear. LOL that was so funny!
I took a Spare rod out of another motor we had at the shop (Thanks for the offer David),
And I plan on getting the motor & Trans mated, and ready to be put in the car by hopefully Thursday 10/19
John, your welcome to come by and lend a hand if youd like. Your always welcome, Just keep your finger outa chris ear. LOL that was so funny!
Lextreme II
Active Member
Bob,
Finally..... Welcome back...
Finally..... Welcome back...
Yeah Sorry David. I've been on, but just doing a lot of reading, not much in the comment department.
My 1UZ has been getting about an hours worth of work a week.
And I keep debating back and forth about putting the stock rods back in (Which I did)
And then again what caused the soft piston in the first place. I checked all the injectors, and they all seem to be working OK.
So Yeah, what do you ladies think about that jewel of a motor I'm going to be putting back in my SC?
My 1UZ has been getting about an hours worth of work a week.
And I keep debating back and forth about putting the stock rods back in (Which I did)
And then again what caused the soft piston in the first place. I checked all the injectors, and they all seem to be working OK.
So Yeah, what do you ladies think about that jewel of a motor I'm going to be putting back in my SC?
Lextreme II
Active Member
New decorations..... I am thinking about powdercoating my engine too.....matted black...
stevechumo
Active Member
Blue or shiny silver will catch my eyes. How about a crystal clear engine?
Well guys, I had the motor assembled with the stock rods, and was having an argument with myself about it.:argue:
After spending all those day looking at it, and something telling me not to run it with the stock rods, I broke down, and got a set from Pauter.
Chris & I are also putting in the oil squiters off of the iron block.
The rods from Pauter are labled Tundra, 4.0L I'm not sure if the rods are the same between both motors.
David do you know the answer to this?
The pin end of the rod is wider then the stock 4.0 rod, which is nice for extra strength, but Chris thinks it may not allow the piston to move as it should.
Were gonna check this out over the next few days, and will let you guys know what we find.
Here are a couple photos I took of the Pistons/Rods.
After spending all those day looking at it, and something telling me not to run it with the stock rods, I broke down, and got a set from Pauter.
Chris & I are also putting in the oil squiters off of the iron block.
The rods from Pauter are labled Tundra, 4.0L I'm not sure if the rods are the same between both motors.
David do you know the answer to this?
The pin end of the rod is wider then the stock 4.0 rod, which is nice for extra strength, but Chris thinks it may not allow the piston to move as it should.
Were gonna check this out over the next few days, and will let you guys know what we find.
Here are a couple photos I took of the Pistons/Rods.
Lextreme II
Active Member
They are all the same... I would not put oil noozle if you rebuilding your motor. Factory made with very tight clearance between the rings and the cylinder wall. If you rebuild the motor with less then factdory clearance, then you will have problem with oil control. I was going to do that in my 4.7 SC470TT but my engine builder strongly discourage me. He stated that will be will be burning alot of oil and will loose power too. The best place to get Pauter rods is from www.atomicspeedware.com Nick is the owner of the Atomic and he can give us the best possible deal. However, anyone looking for strong forged rods, please contact Zuffen. He still has few set of the Argo rods. They are as good if not better then Pauter rods.
Lextreme II
Active Member
Bob,
Its not the oil pressure although it does play a role. Its the rings and the cylinder wall clearance. OEM engine have very tight tolerance and its ok for squiters, but rebuild engine would have this issue. He had 30 years of experience (old school builder) and he basically I would have oil issue. That is why I did not install them. I have those squiters laying around somewhere.
More details in this thread http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4048&highlight=oil+nozzle
Its not the oil pressure although it does play a role. Its the rings and the cylinder wall clearance. OEM engine have very tight tolerance and its ok for squiters, but rebuild engine would have this issue. He had 30 years of experience (old school builder) and he basically I would have oil issue. That is why I did not install them. I have those squiters laying around somewhere.
More details in this thread http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4048&highlight=oil+nozzle
Attachments
I've used them on a rebuilt 4A-GE and didn't have any problems, plus I think the benefit is great.
I will need another set, if you want to get rid of your, let me know.
In your photo, you have the bolt tab running in line with the oil passage. It needs to be to the side, like in the diagram, so it doesn't it the oil galley
I will need another set, if you want to get rid of your, let me know.
In your photo, you have the bolt tab running in line with the oil passage. It needs to be to the side, like in the diagram, so it doesn't it the oil galley
cjsupra90
New Member
Sorry, but I have to disagree with the engine builder. I have rebuild several motors that had squirters and have never had a problem to this day. On top of all that, I dont/cant see why a builder cant get within the factory tolerances.
Now on a different note about the squirter, they really offer no benifit for normal everyday street use unless its a motor that is under constant heavy power loads like a truck engine that is constantly hauling heavy loads, or a road race engine that spends far more time under heavy power loads then under light power loads. IMHO, turbo motors stand possibly a small benifit if any at all from having them. Again, this is just my oppinion based on what I have seen in motors that I have dealt with.
Now on a different note about the squirter, they really offer no benifit for normal everyday street use unless its a motor that is under constant heavy power loads like a truck engine that is constantly hauling heavy loads, or a road race engine that spends far more time under heavy power loads then under light power loads. IMHO, turbo motors stand possibly a small benifit if any at all from having them. Again, this is just my oppinion based on what I have seen in motors that I have dealt with.
Lextreme II
Active Member
Sure I will try to find it. Its somewhere. On the other note my friend Wyane with the Super/turbo/NOS Tundra also didn't install the oil jets due to similar reasons.
