1UZFE Vs. 2UZFE Bucket

[XR8tt]

Just tidy up the bowl area just under the valve.
I went 2J stainless valves for better length and spring height..
My engine builder wanted to go shimless.. Who was I to argue ??
I doubt it will help me much ??
1UZ motors hold up well to boost with decent rods and pistons..
Heat is not an issue if cooling system is up to power level..
An S366 will punch out the power your after..
Mine is all out so we have gone S480 1.10 A.R T6 housing..
I would use a multi layer head gasket..

 

[CarlosR347]

Just tidy up the bowl area just under the valve.
I went 2J stainless valves for better length and spring height..
My engine builder wanted to go shimless.. Who was I to argue ??
I doubt it will help me much ??
1UZ motors hold up well to boost with decent rods and pistons..
Heat is not an issue if cooling system is up to power level..
An S366 will punch out the power your after..
Mine is all out so we have gone S480 1.10 A.R T6 housing..
I would use a multi layer head gasket..

Then 1uz it is!! Lol it'll save me $1100 I could use for cams and springs.. I was using cometic mls .051 with 10mm ARP studs and held up well at 11psi, my cooling issues I cannot explain I'm running two large fans and a Megan racing mk4 radiator.. I'm assuming either the block is soaking up the heat or theres too much exhaust pressure.. BTW I love the s366 it spools nearly instantly.. for my power goals what upgrades would you recommend, I have an early 1uz.. would the stock pistons hold up with forged rods? And will 7/16 L19 head studs hold down the head? I'm opting for a thicker head gasket and colder plugs.. also I'm all ears on what cam profile I should run with the stock lifters and springs? And would it be smart to install 2uz buckets, I could just machine them to accept a 6mm stem.. thanks in advance!!

 

[XR8tt]

Yes 66mm go well on 4.0 motors...
Check this site for cam re-grinds ..
I used billet Kelford cams from N.Z. They use these engines in stock cars there
for at least 15 years, up to 480 h.p N/A...
If your not upgrading rotating assembly ??
I would just fit better valve springs with around 80Lb seat pressure...
As with most engines in this spec.. It's the TUNE that keeps engine working well...
Try a good under tray from bottom of radiator to just short of engine..
It creates a low pressure void behind radiator essentially pulling air through..
At times these are taken off for easier oil changes etc...

A water / meth kit will help your pistons big time..Keeping them cool and guard against detonation...Just google water / meth kits ??? Heaps out there...
One hint of detonation can kill a piston easy...

Yep those studs have held over 1000 h.p on forged engine running E85...
Which is way easier on assembly compared to pump fuel..
What size is the turbine housing A.R ?? A simple tap into exhaust manifold housing with 6" tube to pressure gauge will measure back pressure...
Can just copper-coat spray gasket and re install...

 

[CarlosR347]

Yes 66mm go well on 4.0 motors...
Check this site for cam re-grinds ..
I used billet Kelford cams from N.Z. They use these engines in stock cars there
for at least 15 years, up to 480 h.p N/A...
If your not upgrading rotating assembly ??
I would just fit better valve springs with around 80Lb seat pressure...
As with most engines in this spec.. It's the TUNE that keeps engine working well...
Try a good under tray from bottom of radiator to just short of engine..
It creates a low pressure void behind radiator essentially pulling air through..
At times these are taken off for easier oil changes etc...

A water / meth kit will help your pistons big time..Keeping them cool and guard against detonation...Just google water / meth kits ??? Heaps out there...
One hint of detonation can kill a piston easy...

Yep those studs have held over 1000 h.p on forged engine running E85...
Which is way easier on assembly compared to pump fuel..
What size is the turbine housing A.R ?? A simple tap into exhaust manifold housing with 6" tube to pressure gauge will measure back pressure...
Can just copper-coat spray gasket and re install...

yes I'm familiar with the tray they use this method on small prop aircraft its called a cowl flap you read my mind lol.. my exhaust is .88 T4 single.. so how much HP can the stock pistons handle? I was planning on using lextreme rods with forged pistons ARP rod bolts and L19 head studs 7/16 and some turbo cams.. I wasn't planning on upgrading the springs tho do I need to with the stock rev limiter?

 

[XR8tt]

Valve springs should be the first parts replaced..
They are under 50 Lb seat tension std..
Plus the extra boost / pressure doesn't help..

 

[CarlosR347]

Valve springs should be the first parts replaced..
They are under 50 Lb seat tension std..
Plus the extra boost / pressure doesn't help..

never thought about it that way your right, so valve springs, headstuds.. but as far as the shim under bucket conversion, and how far the stock pistons will hold?

 

[ash]

Just tidy up the short turbo radius area just under the valve.

fixed
the bowl is in the chamber

 

[ash]

I went 2J stainless valves for better length and spring height..
..

alittle machining of valve guide, and spring pocket area... NO extra expense of valve purchase is required
for example:
1uz engine in this video will have more than .050' lift than most guys cams here..
std valves / retainers are used easily
crow cams from australia are the bump sticks used.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxHvdiePe3c

 

[XR8tt]

I rang and emailed Crow [& other companies] some time back and they didn't have anything for 1UZ..
Was surprised to see specs on some builds where they state they used Crow products...
The S/S valves came from a 2J build where the owner had a communication problem...
His Mrs found out he had a mistress on the side...
Apparently it doesn't work*....Aha...
*Esp if the father in law is the boss...
Unlike me to take up an opportunity...

 

[XR8tt]

fixed
the bowl is in the chamber

As explaned here with pics..
The area just under the valve ..
The valve seat itself on an alloy head in this case..

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/en...ore/0602em_cylinder_head_porting/viewall.html

As in above link..
It's no secret that a great deal of flow typically lives in the port bowl, hiding under the valves and around the valve guides, just waiting to be harvested by the carbide. Reworking this area, accessible from the chamber side of the port, is referred to as pocket porting. There's a broad range of what one guy or the next will call a pocket-ported set of heads, but the idea here is to smooth-out or enlarge the bowl area and long side of the port adjacent to the valve guide boss, and even re-profile the guideboss itself. Don't go overboard when enlarging the bowl, however, or a flow separation at the seat will be the likely outcome.

 

[ash]

I rang and emailed Crow [& other companies] some time back and they didn't have anything for 1UZ..
Was surprised to see specs on some builds where they state they used Crow products...
The S/S valves came from a 2J build where the owner had a communication problem...
His Mrs found out he had a mistress on the side...
Apparently it doesn't work*....Aha...
*Esp if the father in law is the boss...
Unlike me to take up an opportunity...

Some of the fastest Lexus drag cars in Australia run crow cam. Have done for years.
You cannot become a expert via Internet only.... It's called r & d.

 

[ash]

Considering most guys here are on some sort of a budget...
The extra cost of sending head away to get ported is offen out of the question...

A quick smooth over of short turn radius in intake runner , gives best bang for buck.
Any other bowl work as you say... That will actually change the compression difference from cylinder to cylinder, and therefore alter the tune.

I'm guessing it would be safer to just clean up the intake runner, for less risk of individual cylinder tune up...

 

[ash]

I rang and emailed Crow [& other companies] some time back and they didn't have anything for 1UZ..
Was surprised to see specs on some builds where they state they used Crow products...
..

Btw, some of them use a crow cams double spring, with oem retainer , and have cylinder valve spring pocket machined to suit.

 

[XR8tt]

Yes I must have talked to the cleaner..Lol...

 

[ash]

but the idea here is to smooth-out or enlarge the bowl area and long side of the port adjacent to the valve guide boss, and even re-profile the guideboss itself. Don't go overboard when enlarging the bowl, however, or a flow separation at the seat will be the likely outcome.

i would just like to correct this...
i have no pictures with me on this computer to show, but will try get some next month

best and safest way to tidy up the heads,
short turn radius = sharp turn of port/ cyl head , before it reaches the backshide of the valve
long side = the port roof, up where the valve guide comes down through the top of the head

remove head
remove intake valves
stick ur finger in the hole, and feel the lump on the short turn radius, about 1 inch in...
use a die grinder and carefully smooth this lump down and blend it to floor surface , and valve seat
can use sandpaper on a finger to finish..

don't touch the long side at this stage
the short turn is more important, to get rid of the turbuance rolling off the lump

 

[XR8tt]

Considering most guys here are on some sort of a budget...
The extra cost of sending head away to get ported is often out of the question...

A quick smooth over of short turn radius in intake runner , gives best bang for buck.
Any other bowl work as you say... That will actually change the compression difference from cylinder to cylinder, and therefore alter the tune.

I'm guessing it would be safer to just clean up the intake runner, for less risk of individual cylinder tune up...

The bowl area I'm talking about is just under the valve..
Between seat and port area....
Plenty of guys can do porting..
The guys in Penrith where Joe's heads were done does an excellent job..

 

[ash]

The bowl area I'm talking about is just under the valve..
Between seat and port area....
Plenty of guys can do porting..
The guys in Penrith where Joe's heads were done does an excellent job..

yer ok..
bowl area is out in the chamber ..
not under the valve... thats intake runner

 

[XR8tt]

Yes the port is almost square in this area..
Doesn't take much to make a big difference
especially with forced induction...

I think bowl is a term used to mix, lap, blend or smooth
anything..???
Like on pushrod engines where some unshrouding is done..
The area in green ...

 

[ash]

Yes the port is almost square in this area..
Doesn't take much to make a big difference
especially with forced induction...

I think bowl is a term used to mix, lap, blend or smooth
anything..???
Like on pushrod engines where some unshrouding is done..

square?


yes, unshrouding is done in the bowl area... out in the chamber of the head....

 

[FoPar]

is pocket porting, when u have a a hole in ur pocket then you port n polish your own head? cos if it is i have done that on numerous occasions. im getting turned on thinking about sticking my finger in the hole, is that normal? what's with all the sex talk

Jake did a fantastic job porting Joe's head, the head has been hardly touched and flows 290cfm.

GoMac is currently in the middle of a new port for his new NA combo and his numbers so far are fantastic he is around 300-310cfm already standard size valve. when he is done, i believe he will have the biggest HP NA 1UZ ever.

the place were alot of people stuff up is the cam. the right port job and right cam and it will make power its as simple as that. you also have to remember there is more components then just the port job and cam. intake manifold etc etc everything needs to be right.

we have proved that bigger is not always better. however, we are going bigger with the next port job so we hope it will be better