1UZFE Vs. 2UZFE Bucket
- Thread starter Lextreme II
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Interesting, we have a company in the US that deals 1sz buckets, and they're rather inexpensive (for a 16v engine, bit more pricey w/ a 32v). Comically enough, the 4age guys have been using them for awhile for our high lift and duration camshafts. I wasn't thinking about it at the time, so sorry for the newbie question haha.
Interesting, we have a company in the US that deals 1sz buckets, and they're rather inexpensive (for a 16v engine, bit more pricey w/ a 32v). Comically enough, the 4age guys have been using them for awhile for our high lift and duration camshafts. I wasn't thinking about it at the time, so sorry for the newbie question haha.
Ah, I'm still extremely impressed man, congrats on the engine. I know I wont be making anywhere near the same power as you haha, probably a vast amount less. What are you building such a beast for?
not exactly if you have your finger an inch away from a button and move your finger 2 inches your pushing that button 1 inch but if your finger is half an inch away from that button and move it 2 inches your pushing that button 1.5 inches your also going to come in contact with it earlier and release it later.. so your creating more valve lift and i THINK more duration of time the valve is open both advancing the open time and retarding the closing time, given the space between the cam and shim isnt 0 the valve should fully seat, idk thats whats running thru my head atm, any thoughts or opinions? im currently running a single Borg s366 in a 1UZ sc400, im considering upgrading to a 2uz because of the iron block which would allow for a higher torque on the head studs,shim under bucket ,better flowing heads and intake, displacement >=].. and i believe it wont soak up as much heat as the alloy block does from the down pipe, and radiator, iv looked around and people say the weak point of the 2uz are the rods (ill be using the stock 1uz or maybe lextremes along with ARP main studs) and the cams are crap and so im considering upgrading the cams my first thoughts have been that picking out cam profiles used on the 2jz would be a good option, because im looking at it this way its still an engine, very similar with the exception that the cylinder arrangement changes and obviously heads flow better on a 2j, if anything i said was wrong please tell me im ressurecting this thread to educate myself a bit on cams which i would want to order in the near future, my HP goals are in the 700rwhp range.. Im all ears thanks in advance guys!
I don't see how the valves would see any side load. the buckets are very precise in there bore so they move perfectly up and down and they are not conected to the valve in any way so even if the bucket did move around a little the top of the stem (or shim if shim under bucket) would just side on the inside of the bucket.
I would be more concered with the bucket going to high and binding on its way back down. but I can't see that with a couple mm
I would be more concered with the bucket going to high and binding on its way back down. but I can't see that with a couple mm
I believe the ramp rate has to be around 0.0095" per degree of cam revolution to stop the shims damaging the buckets, and flicking out. I have just had huge blown alcohol cams made and our ramp rate is at that figure, so hopefully will be ok. Only thing restricting lift is the springs - they coil bind.
XR8tt
Active Member
I think Nissan GTR retainers fit ??
There would titanium retainers for them..
Copied and pasted from Paul Carey Drag section thread..
Our application is racing obviously. We run .470" lift with 320 degrees duration, 2UZFE buckets and 100 lb Crow single race springs.
I used the RB26 valve spring retainers because the 2UZFE retainers are too small in diameter (2UZFE springs are much smaller than 1UZFE) and did not fit the Crow springs. The RB26 retainers fit perfectly and were cheap and on the shelf at the local Nissan dealer. When we went to assemble the valves, we found the 1UZFE collets placed the retainer at the wrong height - RB26 collets fixed that. Interestingly we tried the RB26 bucket in the hole - and it fits exactly (and has a larger area under the bucket in the boss area for the shim). We had to mill .040" out of the spring base area, because the springs coil bound .020" after max lift (.060" recommended). With custom made shims the assembly went together nicely - although we do not run valve seals. You would have to check that clearance first. With only one run on the engine, we will be watching these details and wear patterns closely.
There would titanium retainers for them..
Copied and pasted from Paul Carey Drag section thread..
Our application is racing obviously. We run .470" lift with 320 degrees duration, 2UZFE buckets and 100 lb Crow single race springs.
I used the RB26 valve spring retainers because the 2UZFE retainers are too small in diameter (2UZFE springs are much smaller than 1UZFE) and did not fit the Crow springs. The RB26 retainers fit perfectly and were cheap and on the shelf at the local Nissan dealer. When we went to assemble the valves, we found the 1UZFE collets placed the retainer at the wrong height - RB26 collets fixed that. Interestingly we tried the RB26 bucket in the hole - and it fits exactly (and has a larger area under the bucket in the boss area for the shim). We had to mill .040" out of the spring base area, because the springs coil bound .020" after max lift (.060" recommended). With custom made shims the assembly went together nicely - although we do not run valve seals. You would have to check that clearance first. With only one run on the engine, we will be watching these details and wear patterns closely.
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Lextreme, would your valve springs work with the 2uz buckets/collets/retainer combination in a 1uz? Or would the retainer be too small given the difference in size between the two engines valve springs? Instead of resorting to a mix and match of engine parts, I'd prefer to keep things simple in my upcoming project. Plus I'm stateside, and RB parts aren't the easiest to get ahold of. :lmao:
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Interesting, we have a company in the US that deals 1sz buckets, and they're rather inexpensive (for a 16v engine, bit more pricey w/ a 32v). Comically enough, the 4age guys have been using them for awhile for our high lift and duration camshafts. I wasn't thinking about it at the time, so sorry for the newbie question haha.
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Interesting, we have a company in the US that deals 1sz buckets, and they're rather inexpensive (for a 16v engine, bit more pricey w/ a 32v). Comically enough, the 4age guys have been using them for awhile for our high lift and duration camshafts. I wasn't thinking about it at the time, so sorry for the newbie question haha.
Just FYI, for my last dyno run, my early 1UZ engine was fitted with the thickest Prius shimless buckets available (5.74mm) plus Toyota 2UZ valve spring retainers, overbored for 6mm valve stems, and additionally, a range of 2UZ underbucket shims were used from 2.00mm to 2.70mm.
It all worked together like a charm.
It all worked together like a charm.
Just FYI, for my last dyno run, my early 1UZ engine was fitted with the thickest Prius shimless buckets available (5.74mm) plus Toyota 2UZ valve spring retainers, overbored for 6mm valve stems, and additionally, a range of 2UZ underbucket shims were used from 2.00mm to 2.70mm.
It all worked together like a charm.
It all worked together like a charm.
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Do the 1uz's really have that much spacing between the lifters and cams? :eek2:
I didn't realize it would take so much to remove the slack. What valvesprings were you running?
I didn't realize it would take so much to remove the slack. What valvesprings were you running?
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Whoops, nevermind, I just read your build. Great stuff man, very impressive engine! I'm hoping I won't have the same concerns as I intend to run billet cams, and I wish to do this swap provided everything lines up for me. Plus I'm going a slightly different route :tongue2: I intend for the 1uz to be a replacement for my aging and expensive 4age, with the same rpms available (8000 in fact), with a great deal more torque and power.
I was putting regrinds into heads that had already been shimmed with stock valves and stock cams, so with the regrinds we had up to about 8.9mm clearance between the heels of the lobes and the valve stems.
The thick 5.74mm Prius shimless buckets took out most of that, but we still needed shims under them.
We were running stock springs on that engine, but the next one has Lextreme springs in it, and will probably have a set of Kelford cams.
The thick 5.74mm Prius shimless buckets took out most of that, but we still needed shims under them.
We were running stock springs on that engine, but the next one has Lextreme springs in it, and will probably have a set of Kelford cams.
Toyogtshatch86
New Member
Ah, I'm still extremely impressed man, congrats on the engine. I know I wont be making anywhere near the same power as you haha, probably a vast amount less. What are you building such a beast for?
spf_lexus
Active Member
If you swapped the 2uz buckets in 1uz head with everything else the same wouldn't the valves not close completely? Seating issues? I thought the only way to increase the lift would be taller cam lobes... This would allow more lift and would allow the valve to fall back into it's seat. The thicker bucket idea sounds like bad news.
What you say is true, but I was using reground cams in this last motor. Perhaps that wasn't clear from the post.
With reground cams, you take a millimeter or so off the base circle, then add the same amount you took off the base circle to the shimming to the buckets, and voila, you have more lift without touching the noses of the lobes.
With reground cams, you take a millimeter or so off the base circle, then add the same amount you took off the base circle to the shimming to the buckets, and voila, you have more lift without touching the noses of the lobes.
CarlosR347
New Member
not exactly if you have your finger an inch away from a button and move your finger 2 inches your pushing that button 1 inch but if your finger is half an inch away from that button and move it 2 inches your pushing that button 1.5 inches your also going to come in contact with it earlier and release it later.. so your creating more valve lift and i THINK more duration of time the valve is open both advancing the open time and retarding the closing time, given the space between the cam and shim isnt 0 the valve should fully seat, idk thats whats running thru my head atm, any thoughts or opinions? im currently running a single Borg s366 in a 1UZ sc400, im considering upgrading to a 2uz because of the iron block which would allow for a higher torque on the head studs,shim under bucket ,better flowing heads and intake, displacement >=].. and i believe it wont soak up as much heat as the alloy block does from the down pipe, and radiator, iv looked around and people say the weak point of the 2uz are the rods (ill be using the stock 1uz or maybe lextremes along with ARP main studs) and the cams are crap and so im considering upgrading the cams my first thoughts have been that picking out cam profiles used on the 2jz would be a good option, because im looking at it this way its still an engine, very similar with the exception that the cylinder arrangement changes and obviously heads flow better on a 2j, if anything i said was wrong please tell me im ressurecting this thread to educate myself a bit on cams which i would want to order in the near future, my HP goals are in the 700rwhp range.. Im all ears thanks in advance guys!
