1UZFE into Ford Sierra XR4x4
- Thread starter autronic
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
I was offered an Aristo 4x4 1UZFE over here quite cheaply after I had fixed the body onto my Cobra and I was sorely tempted to rip the body off get a new chassis made to cope but lack of funds stopped me. I'd have to completely redesign the front end of the Cobra and move the front diff about 18" in front of the engine but its all doable.
Its still on my wish list ........
Cheers,
Tony
BTW I dont know if I posted a piccie of the first 1UZFE Cobra in the UK....Neither I nor my build buddy chose the seat colour, it was his Mrs.....
autronic
Member
Zuffen:
It's related to hp, torque and front axle weight. The emissions is not an issue as the car was
registrated first time in Norway before September 1st 1989, the date the catalytic converters became
mandatory on passenger vehicles.
To begin with the front axle weight, this one should be easy to sort. The car is a XR4x4, which means
it had a ( cast iron block and heads ) Ford Cologne 2.9 liter V6 engine. The 1UZFE weight less than the
stock engine but I need to get this verified from Toyota, and Toyota Norway won't play ball,
"..we have never sold a car called Toyota Royal Crown in Norway so we have no data on the car when
it comes to horse power, torque or engine weight..... "
The alternative is to get the Norwegian MoT to weight the car, you should think this should be a no
brainer as they check the weight of trucks etc., but no, "..our weight is not accurate enough.."
When I pointed out this to the guy I spoke with, I did not get an answer.
Horse power should be possible to get them to accept. The Sierra with most horsepower is the Cosworth
RS500 ( 224 hp ) followed by the Cosworth 4x4 ( 220 ).
The rules allow a 10% increase in power and torque with an engine change, unless you can come up with
documentation from the manufacturer or an independent body that they will trust ( TUV, DEKRA etc )
saying the car will take more.
So, back to my Sierra XR4x4. The most horsepower they will accept is ( RS500 ) 224 + 10% => 246.4 hp
This is almost the Lexus edition of the 1UZFE ( 250 hp ) and just over what I have in my Toyota Royal
Crown 1UZFE ( 240 hp ) so this should be fine.
Next is torque, this is a bit worse as the Sierra Cosworth RS500 had 280 Nm. If I add 10% to this
( 280 + 10% => 308 ) I end up with 308Nm.
The Toyota 1UZFE have 350 Nm, 12% more than I'm allowed to have and 25% more that the Cosworth
engine, there in lays the challenge.
I might have found a way to solve this as there was made a Ford Sierra XR8 in South Africa with
a 5.0 Ford small block. It had 204hp and 330Nm, still not enough but better.
I have tried to contact Ford South Africa, but I have not received any reply and until I hear anything
I don't know where I stand.
It's related to hp, torque and front axle weight. The emissions is not an issue as the car was
registrated first time in Norway before September 1st 1989, the date the catalytic converters became
mandatory on passenger vehicles.
To begin with the front axle weight, this one should be easy to sort. The car is a XR4x4, which means
it had a ( cast iron block and heads ) Ford Cologne 2.9 liter V6 engine. The 1UZFE weight less than the
stock engine but I need to get this verified from Toyota, and Toyota Norway won't play ball,
"..we have never sold a car called Toyota Royal Crown in Norway so we have no data on the car when
it comes to horse power, torque or engine weight..... "
The alternative is to get the Norwegian MoT to weight the car, you should think this should be a no
brainer as they check the weight of trucks etc., but no, "..our weight is not accurate enough.."
When I pointed out this to the guy I spoke with, I did not get an answer.
Horse power should be possible to get them to accept. The Sierra with most horsepower is the Cosworth
RS500 ( 224 hp ) followed by the Cosworth 4x4 ( 220 ).
The rules allow a 10% increase in power and torque with an engine change, unless you can come up with
documentation from the manufacturer or an independent body that they will trust ( TUV, DEKRA etc )
saying the car will take more.
So, back to my Sierra XR4x4. The most horsepower they will accept is ( RS500 ) 224 + 10% => 246.4 hp
This is almost the Lexus edition of the 1UZFE ( 250 hp ) and just over what I have in my Toyota Royal
Crown 1UZFE ( 240 hp ) so this should be fine.
Next is torque, this is a bit worse as the Sierra Cosworth RS500 had 280 Nm. If I add 10% to this
( 280 + 10% => 308 ) I end up with 308Nm.
The Toyota 1UZFE have 350 Nm, 12% more than I'm allowed to have and 25% more that the Cosworth
engine, there in lays the challenge.
I might have found a way to solve this as there was made a Ford Sierra XR8 in South Africa with
a 5.0 Ford small block. It had 204hp and 330Nm, still not enough but better.
I have tried to contact Ford South Africa, but I have not received any reply and until I hear anything
I don't know where I stand.
autronic
Member
Zuffen:
The Lexus 1UZFE have 250hp and 380Nm, that's why I have tried to use the Japanese Toyota 1UZFE
specifications as they have less of both ( 240 hp and 350Nm ).
XR8tt:
I'd love to use the specifications from the Ford Falcon XR8 but I can't as the Falcon is not the same
car as the Sierra.
The Lexus 1UZFE have 250hp and 380Nm, that's why I have tried to use the Japanese Toyota 1UZFE
specifications as they have less of both ( 240 hp and 350Nm ).
XR8tt:
I'd love to use the specifications from the Ford Falcon XR8 but I can't as the Falcon is not the same
car as the Sierra.
Peewee
New Member
Thats pretty poor they only allow a 10% increase in torque.
Most cars will easily take 100% increase in torque without any issues.
Hell I'm putting up to 70% more torque in a car thats (legally) had half the roof removed and it doesn't have an issue, and neither do the Trans Dept.
I have to get an independent engineer to sign off on the conversion anyway, so his report just states the car can handle the increase. Simple as that.
Most cars will easily take 100% increase in torque without any issues.
Hell I'm putting up to 70% more torque in a car thats (legally) had half the roof removed and it doesn't have an issue, and neither do the Trans Dept.
I have to get an independent engineer to sign off on the conversion anyway, so his report just states the car can handle the increase. Simple as that.
That's a real shame that the pen pushers get a say in what you can do to your car 
( Especially after all that hard work.
Thankfully the do-gooders have not ruined it for us in the UK ........yet
I'm fitting a Ford 302 V8 to an Escort Cosworth using the MT75
Don't know how long it will last but will be fun finding out !
Mark
( Especially after all that hard work.Thankfully the do-gooders have not ruined it for us in the UK ........yet
I'm fitting a Ford 302 V8 to an Escort Cosworth using the MT75
Don't know how long it will last but will be fun finding out !
Mark
autronic
Member
To revive an old tread...
Got a surprise in the mail yesterday, it was a letter from the Norwegian MOT that they will accep the 1UZFE swap
if I can get Ford to say that the chassis will take the horsepower and torque, so there is progress !
In other news, I never been 100% comfortable with aligning the engine and gearbox with the adapter plate I made
nor with cutting and welding the bellhousings, so I found a solution on ebay.co.uk a few months back,
a prototype MT75 gearbox front housing without an integrated bellhousing.
This means I have made an adapter plate that allows me to bolt together the 1UZFE (u2) bellhousing and the
prototype MT75 front housing.
This MT75 prototype front bellhousing have an interesting history, it appears it is something Ford had made for
a kit car manufacturer as they use the old Ford Type9 gearboxes and they are getting rare and they asked
Ford if they had a MT75 gearbox without an integrated bellhousing. Ford said they did not, but they could make
some, so they made 3. I have 2 of 'em so if anybody need a MT75 front housing with a
"Type9/RS2000" bolt pattern I have a spare ( the third one is in the middle east, Jordan ).
Got a surprise in the mail yesterday, it was a letter from the Norwegian MOT that they will accep the 1UZFE swap
if I can get Ford to say that the chassis will take the horsepower and torque, so there is progress !
In other news, I never been 100% comfortable with aligning the engine and gearbox with the adapter plate I made
nor with cutting and welding the bellhousings, so I found a solution on ebay.co.uk a few months back,
a prototype MT75 gearbox front housing without an integrated bellhousing.
This means I have made an adapter plate that allows me to bolt together the 1UZFE (u2) bellhousing and the
prototype MT75 front housing.
This MT75 prototype front bellhousing have an interesting history, it appears it is something Ford had made for
a kit car manufacturer as they use the old Ford Type9 gearboxes and they are getting rare and they asked
Ford if they had a MT75 gearbox without an integrated bellhousing. Ford said they did not, but they could make
some, so they made 3. I have 2 of 'em so if anybody need a MT75 front housing with a
"Type9/RS2000" bolt pattern I have a spare ( the third one is in the middle east, Jordan ).
autronic
Member
deankdx:
Therein lies the challenge, as Ford Norway is clueless so I have to get somebody I know in England to dig out
a statement. It shouldn't be a problem as the Sierra Cosworth exist.
Anyway, here is a few more pictures of what the assembly will look like + a Cosworth 4x4 gearbox next to it.
The concentric slave cylinder is from a Ford Scorpio and you can see where I have used the grinder to make
room for fluid in and out on the adapter plate.
Therein lies the challenge, as Ford Norway is clueless so I have to get somebody I know in England to dig out
a statement. It shouldn't be a problem as the Sierra Cosworth exist.
Anyway, here is a few more pictures of what the assembly will look like + a Cosworth 4x4 gearbox next to it.
The concentric slave cylinder is from a Ford Scorpio and you can see where I have used the grinder to make
room for fluid in and out on the adapter plate.
autronic
Member
Other parts that's ready is the flywheel + the clutch cover.
The flywheel is one I have designed and gotten made. It's made from crome moly steel and weighs
5034 grams without the starter ring. It's 10 mm thick where it's bolted to the crank so it's possible to use
ARP 203-2802 flywheel bolts for the Toyota 4AG engine.
The clutch cover is a 9.5" ( 241 mm ) Sachs racing cover from South Bend clutch. They have modified it
so the clamping force is 1600 kg's + it's cryo treated.
It's made so it can be used with a single or twin clutch plate.
The flywheel is one I have designed and gotten made. It's made from crome moly steel and weighs
5034 grams without the starter ring. It's 10 mm thick where it's bolted to the crank so it's possible to use
ARP 203-2802 flywheel bolts for the Toyota 4AG engine.
The clutch cover is a 9.5" ( 241 mm ) Sachs racing cover from South Bend clutch. They have modified it
so the clamping force is 1600 kg's + it's cryo treated.
It's made so it can be used with a single or twin clutch plate.
I was offered an Aristo 4x4 1UZFE over here quite cheaply after I had fixed the body onto my Cobra and I was sorely tempted to rip the body off get a new chassis made to cope but lack of funds stopped me. I'd have to completely redesign the front end of the Cobra and move the front diff about 18" in front of the engine but its all doable.
Its still on my wish list ........
Cheers,
Tony
BTW I dont know if I posted a piccie of the first 1UZFE Cobra in the UK....Neither I nor my build buddy chose the seat colour, it was his Mrs.....
Sorry about the hijack but nice cobra Tony, glad you explained about the seats....... I guess your buddy could always get a new Mrs.......
Any colour you like as long as it's blue also seems popular in the UK.
Looking forward to getting some paint on mine next year.
Please post the Aristo over to me, I have plenty of room for it.
Any colour you like as long as it's blue also seems popular in the UK.
Looking forward to getting some paint on mine next year.
Please post the Aristo over to me, I have plenty of room for it.
autronic
Member
To get the tread back on track 
sniper:
I try my best, if I'm not 100% satisfied, I redo stuff. This means everything takes forever but that's ok and
the MOT will not have any reason to go say, that's not good enough so we can't give your car an ok....
deankdx:
No need to get a job at the MOT, I just needed to know how the system works. What I ended up with was
3 approved Ford Sierra applications on Saturday, one estate ( XR4x4 ) with an engine change to a 1UZFE
engine, one 3 door ( 2.0 liter ) with an engine change to a 1UZFE engine ( RWD only thou, as the car is RWD
to begin with ) and one 4 door sedan 2.0 4x4 to Sierra Cosworth 4x4 2.0 16v turbo ( need to get rid of all
the parts I have assembled thru the years. )
4x4 stuff:
I have done a lot of research to find a manual gearbox with constant AWD capable of dealing with 850 lbs/ft
( 850 HP ) at the flywheel, this is my suggestion for a solution:
- A 1UZFE bellhousing ( I'd prefer a U2 for several reasons )
- Adapter plate to Tremec T56 gearbox ( I have drawings, let me know if anyone need 'em. Remember, tell me
if you have a U1 or a U2 bellhousing ).
- A Tremec T56 gearbox with the following specs:
- Dodge Viper input shaft ( 26 splines and long enough to be used with the 1UZFE bellhousings + an adapter
plate ).
- Custom main shaft, to "suit" a Aston Martin V12 Vanquish, this means separate 5th ( 0.80 ) and 6th ( 0.62 )
gears and thicker overall main shaft size ( Arnout on this forum can get custom T56 main shafts made to any
lengths and any splines at the end. )
- Ford Mustang 1st to 4th ratios ( 2.66:1 , 1.78:1 , 1.30:1 , 1.0:1 ) and front housing. ( Hey, I'm a Ford guy
but you can use any T56 housing. The drawings I have for the adapter plate is to the Ford front T56 housing,
I think they are similar but YMMV :shrug: )
- A Chevy Corvette C5/C6 Tremec T56 rear housing, this has a flat flange at the back, makes is easier to bolt
an adapter plate onto it and the center diff onto the adapter plate.
- Center diff. Now it get's tricky, there are two ways of doing this, it depends on where you want the center
diff, on the right or left side of the gearbox.
To have the diff on the right side of the front sump, use a R32 Skyline center diff + various parts.
To have the diff on the left side of the front sump, use a GMC Syclone/Typhoon center diff or a Chevy Astro
4x4 van. This is a Borg Warner 4472 constant AWD ( 34%/66% F/R split ) center diff.
- Right hand side front diff, use a Skyline R32/R33 4.1:1 front diff ( the sump has to be modified a lot, the
best solution is to run a dry sump, I'd recommended this at this hp level anyway. )
- Left hand side front diff, use a Ford model 35/194 front diff ( 1995 - 1998, with CV, Ranger and Explorer )
with 4.1:1 ratio. ( This is separate from the front sump, makes is possible to retain a wet sump, but I'd still
recommended a dry sump anyway. )
The 4.1:1 front diff ratios also means you will need a 4.1:1 rear diff ratio. The 4.1:1 ratio is chosen as it gives
an an ok final ratio ( 5th gives 3.28:1 and 6th gives 2.542:1 ), remember the 1UZFE is only 4 liter and you
can't go silly with lower ratios and expect the car to perform.
sniper:
I try my best, if I'm not 100% satisfied, I redo stuff. This means everything takes forever but that's ok and
the MOT will not have any reason to go say, that's not good enough so we can't give your car an ok....
deankdx:
No need to get a job at the MOT, I just needed to know how the system works. What I ended up with was
3 approved Ford Sierra applications on Saturday, one estate ( XR4x4 ) with an engine change to a 1UZFE
engine, one 3 door ( 2.0 liter ) with an engine change to a 1UZFE engine ( RWD only thou, as the car is RWD
to begin with ) and one 4 door sedan 2.0 4x4 to Sierra Cosworth 4x4 2.0 16v turbo ( need to get rid of all
the parts I have assembled thru the years. )
4x4 stuff:
I have done a lot of research to find a manual gearbox with constant AWD capable of dealing with 850 lbs/ft
( 850 HP ) at the flywheel, this is my suggestion for a solution:
- A 1UZFE bellhousing ( I'd prefer a U2 for several reasons )
- Adapter plate to Tremec T56 gearbox ( I have drawings, let me know if anyone need 'em. Remember, tell me
if you have a U1 or a U2 bellhousing ).
- A Tremec T56 gearbox with the following specs:
- Dodge Viper input shaft ( 26 splines and long enough to be used with the 1UZFE bellhousings + an adapter
plate ).
- Custom main shaft, to "suit" a Aston Martin V12 Vanquish, this means separate 5th ( 0.80 ) and 6th ( 0.62 )
gears and thicker overall main shaft size ( Arnout on this forum can get custom T56 main shafts made to any
lengths and any splines at the end. )
- Ford Mustang 1st to 4th ratios ( 2.66:1 , 1.78:1 , 1.30:1 , 1.0:1 ) and front housing. ( Hey, I'm a Ford guy
but you can use any T56 housing. The drawings I have for the adapter plate is to the Ford front T56 housing,
I think they are similar but YMMV :shrug: )
- A Chevy Corvette C5/C6 Tremec T56 rear housing, this has a flat flange at the back, makes is easier to bolt
an adapter plate onto it and the center diff onto the adapter plate.
- Center diff. Now it get's tricky, there are two ways of doing this, it depends on where you want the center
diff, on the right or left side of the gearbox.
To have the diff on the right side of the front sump, use a R32 Skyline center diff + various parts.
To have the diff on the left side of the front sump, use a GMC Syclone/Typhoon center diff or a Chevy Astro
4x4 van. This is a Borg Warner 4472 constant AWD ( 34%/66% F/R split ) center diff.
- Right hand side front diff, use a Skyline R32/R33 4.1:1 front diff ( the sump has to be modified a lot, the
best solution is to run a dry sump, I'd recommended this at this hp level anyway. )
- Left hand side front diff, use a Ford model 35/194 front diff ( 1995 - 1998, with CV, Ranger and Explorer )
with 4.1:1 ratio. ( This is separate from the front sump, makes is possible to retain a wet sump, but I'd still
recommended a dry sump anyway. )
The 4.1:1 front diff ratios also means you will need a 4.1:1 rear diff ratio. The 4.1:1 ratio is chosen as it gives
an an ok final ratio ( 5th gives 3.28:1 and 6th gives 2.542:1 ), remember the 1UZFE is only 4 liter and you
can't go silly with lower ratios and expect the car to perform.
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