1UZ into E36
- Thread starter Patrick Bateman
- Start date
The 1UZFE EGR Delete Kit is available for sale here.
Even on hot days, it cycles between 90 and 87 degrees C with the fan.
The radiator is excellent and keeps it in the mid to low 80s when driving around.
Not entirely happy with the filler though... no matter how I bleed it, the system seems to keep a tiny pocket of air in the upper hose - but I have another bridge pipe to weld up and that should fix it.
The radiator is excellent and keeps it in the mid to low 80s when driving around.
Not entirely happy with the filler though... no matter how I bleed it, the system seems to keep a tiny pocket of air in the upper hose - but I have another bridge pipe to weld up and that should fix it.
While there is much more to do on the car before it's finished, I am nearing the point where it's ready for dyno tuning. One of the main concerns I had was the cooling system. The current setup is:
The system (including engine & heater) holds about 8 litres of coolant and the fan moves a serious amount of air. This is one area I didn't want to skimp on.
Due to the Chasebays radiator being lower than the top water outlet, I had the thermostat housing modified, with a filler welded on where the bleed plug used to be. This was OK, but the top hose always seemed to hold air, no matter how I purged the system.
Temp-wise, the engine would normally cycle between 91 and 87 degrees with the cooling fan - but after some “enthusiastic” test driving on hot days, the temp would increase 95-100 for a few minutes before coming down. On switch off, there was always a gurgling sound. I needed to get the air out of the top hose, and I wasn't 100% confident it would stay cool during punishment on the dyno.
The Chasebays radiator also came with a filler neck that I hadn’t used (it was still too low), but it's now come in handy. I had a spare front waterbridge (early LS400) and the outlet has now been cut off, with the filler welded on. A standard thermostat housing has been re-fitted (would look a bit silly with 2x radiator caps).
The LS waterbridge has 2x additional fittings that the Soarer doesn’t. Now, 2 are welded up, with the temp sensor in place and the remaining 16mm fitting makes good as an inlet from the turbo.
With the new parts fitted and the system bled, N.O.T temps are stable no more gurgling. It takes a fair bit more punishment for the temps to get past 95 (its about 30 degrees in Sydney today) but it cools down just fine. I'm confident it will take the heat now... but the dyno will be the ultimate test.
- Chasebays Radiator with dual pass core
22" x 17" x 3” (W/H/D) - 20AN fittings with 1.25” hoses
- 16” 2200 CFM Thermofan
The system (including engine & heater) holds about 8 litres of coolant and the fan moves a serious amount of air. This is one area I didn't want to skimp on.
Due to the Chasebays radiator being lower than the top water outlet, I had the thermostat housing modified, with a filler welded on where the bleed plug used to be. This was OK, but the top hose always seemed to hold air, no matter how I purged the system.
Temp-wise, the engine would normally cycle between 91 and 87 degrees with the cooling fan - but after some “enthusiastic” test driving on hot days, the temp would increase 95-100 for a few minutes before coming down. On switch off, there was always a gurgling sound. I needed to get the air out of the top hose, and I wasn't 100% confident it would stay cool during punishment on the dyno.
The Chasebays radiator also came with a filler neck that I hadn’t used (it was still too low), but it's now come in handy. I had a spare front waterbridge (early LS400) and the outlet has now been cut off, with the filler welded on. A standard thermostat housing has been re-fitted (would look a bit silly with 2x radiator caps).
The LS waterbridge has 2x additional fittings that the Soarer doesn’t. Now, 2 are welded up, with the temp sensor in place and the remaining 16mm fitting makes good as an inlet from the turbo.
With the new parts fitted and the system bled, N.O.T temps are stable no more gurgling. It takes a fair bit more punishment for the temps to get past 95 (its about 30 degrees in Sydney today) but it cools down just fine. I'm confident it will take the heat now... but the dyno will be the ultimate test.
ivan129
BlownZX
Nice neat job there Patrick.
I have similar heating issues when I work the thing a bit. Now running a low temp thermostat, a push fan PWM to start at 88 and the twin pull fans at 90 seems to work at the moment.
The biggest issue with a blower is high IAT's, sometimes mine is up over 80C however the water meth brings it down under 50 pertty quickly.
Does your 2 wire IAC make much noise?
I've been tossing around the idea of using a 2 wire in place a my 4 wire stepper to recover some outputs.
Keen to hear your dyno results
I have similar heating issues when I work the thing a bit. Now running a low temp thermostat, a push fan PWM to start at 88 and the twin pull fans at 90 seems to work at the moment.
The biggest issue with a blower is high IAT's, sometimes mine is up over 80C however the water meth brings it down under 50 pertty quickly.
Does your 2 wire IAC make much noise?
I've been tossing around the idea of using a 2 wire in place a my 4 wire stepper to recover some outputs.
Keen to hear your dyno results
The 2 wire IAC Solenoid does buzz a little when the engine isn't running but its imperceivable as soon as the engine starts. The closed loop on it works very well.
I did some data logging today and the air temps sit around 30-35 degrees when running 6psi - but the sensor seems to heat soak a bit when the car is idling. Comes down quick enough. I'm sure it will get hotter on higher boost but that's an issue to measure and deal with when it's on the dyno. I need to adjust the exhaust position a little and get the thumbs up from the engineer on the intake before we hit the dyno.
Just a word on that... the engineer says:
I did some data logging today and the air temps sit around 30-35 degrees when running 6psi - but the sensor seems to heat soak a bit when the car is idling. Comes down quick enough. I'm sure it will get hotter on higher boost but that's an issue to measure and deal with when it's on the dyno. I need to adjust the exhaust position a little and get the thumbs up from the engineer on the intake before we hit the dyno.
Just a word on that... the engineer says:
- Engine capacity and induction are the same as a BA XR6 Turbo
- Brakes are on par (slightly bigger) than a BA XR6 Turbo
- Therefore, I must not make any more power than a BA XR6 Turbo
After some more testing, the engine was faster to heat up (past 95c) and taking longer to cool down.
In theory, the coolant velocity through the front bypass pipe would pull fluid from the turbo back into the radiator.
Turns out that Setup 1 (below) causes the outlet flow out of the engine to slow down, and the front bypass pipe (which houses the coolant temp sensor) was getting hotter than normal. This would explain the measured temp getting hotter faster and staying hotter longer.
I had a look at the turbo coolant line setup in comparison to a 2JZ-GTE and found that I should have plumbed the line into the water inlet housing which is above/behind the thermostat - just as Toyota had designed the 2J to do. When connected in Setup 2 (below) the water pump now pulls the coolant through with much greater force now and the temps are more stable.
Please don't make this mistake.
In theory, the coolant velocity through the front bypass pipe would pull fluid from the turbo back into the radiator.
Turns out that Setup 1 (below) causes the outlet flow out of the engine to slow down, and the front bypass pipe (which houses the coolant temp sensor) was getting hotter than normal. This would explain the measured temp getting hotter faster and staying hotter longer.
I had a look at the turbo coolant line setup in comparison to a 2JZ-GTE and found that I should have plumbed the line into the water inlet housing which is above/behind the thermostat - just as Toyota had designed the 2J to do. When connected in Setup 2 (below) the water pump now pulls the coolant through with much greater force now and the temps are more stable.
Please don't make this mistake.
